My game is set to three ball. I completed all the scenes yesterday and missed completing the battlefield by one freaking target. Would have hit wizard mode which is near impossible with three ball on this game. One freaking target.

Has anyone noticed that when you shot the scene hole next to the right ramp and quickly pull the trigger you initiate a duck quacking sounds. What do those quacks represent? Also, what is with the herd of cows that sometimes runs across the DMD making a mooing sound?

Do you have an extra flipper rubber? Cut two pieces out of it and super glue them behind the targets. No more air balls.

Here are some pics, nothing special. Added light to battlefield and trough. I really like the translucent slingshots.

0914161921 (resized).jpg

0914161921a (resized).jpg

0914161921b (resized).jpg

0914161921c (resized).jpg

Rip off the worthless foam. Replace with rubber. I have the heavy duty blue coils and barely get air balls.

I was getting a lot of rattling noise when my magnet would engage. Lift your playfield and loosen the large nut holding the magnet and adjust the magnet so it is closer to the playfield. I did this and the noise went away but it wasn't close enough to the playfield so I had a similar magnet issue like you had. Adjust it a quarter turn at a time until it works right. I did this and have never had the issue since (noise or weak throws).

I super glued the rubber to the switch. I don't think I even had to adjust the switches. Just started playing. You're being to cautious. Just go for it. Those airballs kill game play.

I think the battlefield is one point you have to lubricate.

I might have an extra ramp. Don't remember what side it was. I can check.

For $3K I would be all over it considering the rest is nice. They are getting harder to find and most people don't sell them once they get them. I won't sell mine.

The sanctum wear is an easy fix and probably the most document Shadow issue. Remove the old decal, apply body filler, smooth out and apply a new decal or paint.

If there is a divot, the ball won't get thrown up into the lock. You need to fix the divot.

Look closer, looks like your plastic is on upside down

The issues of airballs and ball getting trapped on left ramp has been addressed in this thread already. Replace foam on targets with two pieces of cut flipper rubber. Superglue then onto the metal sleeve were foam was. 30 second fix, no airballs. Also, make a switch extender out of a small piece of clear plastic using the extended switch. If you just replace the switch with the longer one it will still trap balls after weak shots. You need to get the switch further down the ramp.

Joining the club again next weekend. Excited to be back in. Ts was the longest pin I've owned in past years. I remember all the tricks to fix the design flaws. Look forward to getting it running perfect.

I believe I posted in this thread way back. Good luck finding it.
1. Standup mongel targets are known for airballs. Rip off the foam target backing and replace with a piece of flipper rubber. Super glue it on in place of foam. Air balls gone.
2. A weak shot to left ramp diverted right can result in ball getting stuck between wire form and ramp. A strong shot can cause ball to jump over thecswitch and it won't register the shot. Someone created a longer switch blade so the shot registers everytime. However, this doesn't remedy stuck ball. You need to get the switch further down the wire form on the downward sloping side. I cut a small piece of lexan and place it where the switch goes. I then place the switch on the end of the lexan strip further down the wire form. This remedies both problems.

In addition to the long switch what you want to do is cut a piece of clear lexan and use it as a switch extender. You basically build a new base. Drill two holes on each end, one for the switch and one for the base plate where the old switch goes. This extends the switch out further down the wire form and the ball won't get stuck as it will pick up momentum before it hits the switch and the switch will always register. I posted a picture in this thread a year or so ago. Also rip off the foam on the standup targets by the left ramp and super glue a piece of flipper rubber in their place. No more airballs.

Here, I made one tonight.

Home depot has the stuff in big sheets. You only need a small amount. Maybe ebay for smaller quantities?

20190131_215109 (resized).jpg

20190131_215115 (resized).jpg

I have one on order. Works even better with same setup. I'll be installing soon.

Yes, use the 4 inch. I did this on my last shadow and it worked great. I plan on doing it on this one. Keep in mind, the switch mounting holes on the ramp are oval so it allows you to tweak and position the switch and lexan plate to your liking. Just put the game in switch test and make your adjustments accordingly.

I'm still having airball issues off of my right mongol target at left ramp entrance. I may...just may think of a design to eliminate airballs like I did for indiana jones and tales from the crypt. In the past the flipper rubber did the trick. I'm going to tweak mine more but may be developing something. The issues is the plastic shield will need to be curved as the ramp is so steep.

Lexan is the strongest from my understanding.

I made a separate post but no action, hoping to get answers here.

I got a new shadow. It's been a couple years since I owned on. I notice when I get the ball up on the battlefield the plunger fires when I hit the flipper buttons as well as move the plunger side to side. I thought it was only suppose to fire when the opto is interrupted and the flipper buttons only move the plunger side to side not fire the plunger coil?

What would cause this or is it not an issue?

Put in switch test mode, no odd switch triggering from taping on playfield or triggering other switches.

During play it doesn't happen every time you hit the flipper button. Just randomly when hitting flipper buttons. Enough to be annoying.

Yes, says mini playfield is fine. I think they mini pf test only checks movement of armeture. All good there. Checked flipper coil diodes and for the life of me can't get that opto switch to trigger in test mode unless broken. I notice this board under playfield triggers the switch if I unplug one of the three connectors but if all plugged in and jiggling wires, nothing, which is good. No loose connections. I'm at a serious loss here and sort of bummed.

Yes, says mini playfield is fine. I think they mini pf test only checks movement of armeture. All good there. Checked flipper coil diodes and for the life of me can't get that opto switch to trigger in test mode unless broken. I notice this board under playfield triggers the switch if I unplug one of the three connectors but if all plugged in and jiggling wires, nothing, which is good. No loose connections. I'm at a serious loss here and sort of bummed.

I literally changed flipper opto board out of desperation. In addition I removed the playfield optos and connected with a straw so nothing could break beam, flippers still fire plunger randomly. Checked all connections in back box. Put game in single switch test in switch 36 so it will beep if triggered. Fucked around with everything above and below playfield and in back box to try to trigger switch. Nothing. Wtf. Are you sure the plunger shouldn't fire randomly? I'm obsessive about game playing correctly and this drives me nuts. Half tempted to sell game and I just got it. Fuck this Pos. So pissed.

20190202_075301 (resized).jpg

Opto looks like it's been changed but works perfectly. I spent an hour and a half fucking with this thing in switch test. I raised mini playfield, wiggled every connector looking for busted solder joints. I guess last resort is I swap out my cpu and Power driver with my I500. Ugh. So annoying.

I'll check again in a bit. Kids waking up now.

Replaced both optos and the wires connecting opto to board under playfield, same shit.

Swapped cpu and mpu without much fixing. It is a little better but still does it. Only other thing to change is the two dedicated opto boards under playfield. I wonder if a broken wire to the solenoid would cause this. Maybe the solenoid fires when power is interrupted and connected again?

My only other option is to replace the 10 opto board under the playfield which I have in I500. The only other board would be that 24 opto board dedicated to that particular opto switch. Might have to send that in to Chris Hilber with some other boards. Other than that I would think it would have to be wires going to the solenoid maybe? I have no clue. I'm neurotic about my games playing perfectly but at some point you just give up as anyone off the streets wouldn't be able to tell there is an issue.

One last Ditch effort, I recorded the optos, you can clearly see they are never broken or flicker. I swap the fliptronics board just to be safe although I believe the issue may be the opto board dedicated to switch 36 under playfield. Everything looks good on it. May have to send in to double check.

Here is all that I have done.
1. Changed optos for that switch with new ones.
2. Swapped mpu, pdb, fliptronics board so all connectors have been reseated.
3. Connected optos with a straw so nothing can break the opto, still does it.
4. Replaced wire and connector running to opto.
5. Single switch test mode. Fire flippers and checkef every switch to see if I could get switch 36 to fire. Nothing.
6. Removed upper playfield twice, everything looks fine.
7. Maybe I should buy a new rom?
8. The only culprit left is that board under playfield dedicated to switch 36. I removed it, everything looks fine. I can send it in to determine if bad but I'm not counting of it.

20190204_214510 (resized).jpg

It's funny, opto 36 is only controlled by that board under the playfield, the regular opto board has nothing to do with that switch. This odd board is used mainly in bsd during mist mode which has lots of issues. I think I will reflow but most likely will need to buy the new upgraded board. Sucks as it is $100 but upgraded and includes an led on board to tell you when optos are interrupted. Right now I'm focusing on a Congo that has factory wiring issues. The line worker must have been drunk or new.

Was still dealing airballs off of right standup. Used one of my old plastics from the game. Ground down on a bench grinder and attached. Problem solved.

20190207_071745 (resized).jpg

Thanks, it'll last. I put flipper rubber in place of the foam. I always do that and it eliminates 90% of the airballs. The flippers are too strong for that close of a shot. That target takes a beating.

Hey, good thought. I'm gonna try that.

I think so, doesn't look like a lot of room. Will putz with mine on Thursday.

On a side note, I noticed even when I move my left ramp right direction switch out with lexan it still isn't registering all my skill shots. I know the switch is registering as I put it in test mode and make multiple flipper shots to verify. I will try to move the switch out further but don't want it to look stupid. I also added the four in switch blade. I'm starting to thing that CPU can't process a super fast shot as it gets confused because ramp entrance opto and that switch trigger so fast after one another? My switch blade reaches clear across the wire form. Nothing is getting past it without registering it.

Following up on my shadow battlefield plunger issue. Replaced that small opto board under playfield. Problem solved!!!!

Shadow was my second pin and lasted the longest before I sold it and I turn pins fast. I recently bought another after having cycled through most of the older B/W titles. It isn't going anywhere. I believe all the diverter parts are now available? Regardless, the piece that mainly goes bad is the diverter shaft or the piece that holds it into place. I recently bought that part from pinball life to get my diverters up to snuff. As long as the diverters are there they can be welded. The game isn't that complex, at least not compared to a STTNG. Even that game is manageable once you understand it. With pinside as a great resource and your willingness to fix things you shouldn't have a problem.

A valid point already mentioned is that it isn't a game most of the public will flock to. It is pinheads game. The diverters confuse the casual player. However, if you aren't buying to please others it is a fast, brutal, badass game with great sounds and game play that will keep you hitting the start button over and over again. It's a heartless bitch that will stomp on your soul and keep you begging for more. I finally got mine dialed in and my pinball friends are anxious to come over tonight to play it.

Tell me if you think I'm nuts but planning on modifying my shadow wire form accordingly. Despite extending my switch out further on the wire form and using the long 3 inch actuator on the switch, I still experience the ball jumping the switch. In fact, sometimes the ball is moving so fast it flies off the wire form.

I was thinking about using an old junky wire form to cut out some pieces and extend my wire form where you see the red lines. Was also thinking about relocating the switch from the red box area to the green on the other side of the playfield. Currently I have a zip tie in the yellow box area to help knock down fast balls that are riding high in the wire form and jumping the switch.

I would obviously have to replate my wire form bronze if I weld it up.

This picture isn't of my game btw.

shadow (resized).jpg

Sometimes the bottom of the target cracks and when the arm moves it to the up position it jams it. That isn't the case with you.

Also check for divots in the sanctum that doesn't allow the ball to release and then get pulled back into the sanctum.

What does it do in display test mode?

A lot of the older games chirp when you flip the switch on.

On my second shadow. I noticed I get a ton of balls jumping off the wireforms on this game. My first I never had the issue. I installed new ramps made by Mantis I believe. On the left ramp it will jump the wireform going right. On the left ramp diverting left it will slam the ring bracket on the ramp and sort of stop, drop in place and then roll down the wireform. The right ramp diverting left will sometimes jump the wireform as well. Anyone have similar experience with the newer ramps? Tempted to weld up the old ones and give them a try. I'm thinking even a slight degree in variance from the originals might be causing this. I noticed when installing the ramp flaps they are super rigid, not sure if that matters? I'm thinking the angle on the ramps are too steep or something.

Done all this including extending the switch out with lexan, etc. i'm not so concerned with switch registers as I barely have any issues. It is the ball flying off the wireforms. Think I'm going to put the old ramps back in and try that. If it works better will sell the new ramps.

Just thought I would follow up. Reinstalled the old ramps and game works like a champ. I think the mantis ramps have a slightly higher pitch causing the ball to ride up on the wire forms. I'm stoked. Selling the mantis ramps now.

Blue and Yellow bitches. And dump the playfield bulbs under the slings. Rock lit star posts only. Look at that lighting. No blaring shit.

20190514_200547 (resized).jpg

No way stern is this innovative. In addition, I don't know why anyone would want to play one over a sweet b/w. I don't even look at sterns on location if one happens to be in the establishment that is lucky enough to have me patron. Fool, do you know what thread you're in?

That was sarcasm.

Regarding mantis ramps.

I don't want to bash any products but I have to give my experience. I bought a shadow for second time and a couple ramps had broken welds. The game came with new mantis ramps. I installed. I thought they played horrible. I had an ungodly amount of wire form jumps diverting right or slams into the ring bracket diverting left on the left ramp. I would even get wire form jumps on left divert of right ramp. I played like this for a while and tried every remedy. It was killing the game play bc ball would jump extended modified switch I have rigged up that is impossible not to register. See pic. I decided to weld up the old ramps myself. I replaced them and game plays flawlessly. Not one wire form jump. Switch registers everytime.

The mantis ramps have a very slight increase in pitch. The diverter has a gap between the ramp that the ball rolls in keeping it from riding up an launching over wire form. That gap is minimized with the greater pitch allowing the ball to travel up and launch.

The mantis ramps aren't cheap. A welder would weld yours for weed money. Either that or spend money on a harbor freight welder and do it yourself. I don't know shit about welding and I did it fine. Any birdshit will be on the bottom and not visible. Just wire wheel or grind the welds to clean them up a bit if worried about something you won't see. Weld from the bottom. Welds will be under.

See pics. One brown mark I didn't bother cleaning.

20190517_141219 (resized).jpg

20190517_141226 (resized).jpg

20190517_141231 (resized).jpg

You don't have an issue. As stated above and in your other thread, the ball sometimes gets hung up under the battlefield and you need to free it. My game doesn't shut off until you hit a lower switch or the battlefield opto has been broken in a certain amount of time.

If you are experiencing random kicking it is the board under the main playfield I mentioned.

Your game sounds fine.

Anyone know if a darker decal is made? This looks so stupid. How could they get the color this wrong. I'm thinking of having some made if this is the best out there.

image-20190926_162228 (resized).jpg

I would like to do this too but my lettering is messed up at the bottom.

Honestly, I am strongly considering making a plastic mod like I did my airball mods. Let me know what you all think of this (i'm not sure it can be done but you never know). Might not be worth the hassle.

Imagine a plastic mod shaped just like the decal, color matched as close as possible, lettering printed on. It would be slightly thinner than a credit card and rigid. Adhesive on the backside. I would shave both ends for a smooth transition. You could simply adhere and be done, no body filler, jb weld, sanding etc.

I got the idea because I am using a credit card until I get this patched. The bondo I used must have reacted with the heat from the magnet and it caused it to lift under the decal. I had to remove it all after I applied the decal in the image above. The sanctum wasn't working again as the ball just fell down. The surface must be perfectly smooth as you know. So I am back to square one. I planned on replacing the sticker because it stuck out like a sore thumb. The individual who sold it to me on ebay is very cooperative and making a few darker versions for me to see which one matches best and he can then sell a more accurate product. The credit card works fine but the edge does cause the ball to jump and hit the plastic above.

Imagine a product in which you never had to patch, just apply and be done. Think it would sell?

Any pics?

I'll probably just patch mine and be done with it. Probably too much hassle to make something.

Thanks a bunch! If the ones I get don't match I will order this. Looks like relatively cheap to ship from there if I am reading it correctly .

Anyone have this missing plastic?

20190926_195646 (resized).jpg

This has been discussed multiple times. Search this thread for a post I made regarding positioning the switch further down the wireform using a piece of clear plastic. I do it on every shadow I buy. Reduces it by 95%. You can sort of see it in this picture.

20190930_205342 (resized).jpg

I don't think there is a template. In fact, I think I'm the only one that does this unless others have copied my design from earlier posts. I just cut a piece of scrap acrylic and drill it. If you make one how about sending me a couple for coming up with the design? If they are laser cut they might look better than my prototypes. I never made them like my airball mods because I didn't think people would want them. Might be a hot item. I recommend adding the long switch blade as well. I'm still waiting for mine to come in the mail.

See post #5287 of this thread. I believe I posted one even further back but don't have the time to search. I thought you were responding to the post I made with the picture a couple posts up the thread.
Switch extension (resized).jpg

Ok, maybe I'm wrong. Beats me, I just never saw it before.

Thats surprising. I find the ball misses mine further down because the ball can ride high on the wire form and completely jump the switch. Surprised yours doesn't get jumped as its even closer to the ramp.

I need the following plastic.

I'm having airball mods made for IJ94 and TFTC again. I am also possibly having the switch extender bracket made in clear with the words "The Shadow" in the font you see in image engraved on the switch extender. I would trade one for the plastic. Getting quotes today.
shadow plastics (resized).JPG

I had a very strange thing happening on my shadow. I noticed when I would hit the drop target to enter the mini playfield with a solid shot it would trigger the switch and light the right ramp left divert ring. Specifically with a hard shot that would fling the ball up hitting the wire form. The switch (77) on the wireform is above the drop target in the fling path so to speak. Very annoying and I figured I had an issue with my switch matrix. I went through all the tests and tried to get both switches to register in switch test. All functioned properly after 50 or so attempts to see if a bad diode etc was triggering the other switch (77). They are not on the same column or row so I figured it was a mechanical issue. I even replaced the ramp switch entirely. I then pinched the switch blade so it was not loose in case the hits were causing the blade to bounce triggering the switch. This issue didn't happen all the time, only when I had a really strong solid hit in which the drop target would fling the ball up hitting the wire form near the switch on the ramp. I tried to replicate triggering the switch by manually hitting the wireform with the ball, etc. I could not get it to trigger this way. The only way the switch (77) would trigger was if I really tossed it good, again, causing the ball to fling up and bounce off the wire form. I make airball mods for drop targets for Indiana Jones and Tales from the Crypt. I quickly made a prototype and it seemed to remedy the problem. No phantom ramp triggers. If I made officials they would be cut much better and not extend out over the shadow loop. You can barely see it when installed because the battlefield covers it.

Is it my machine or are others having this problem? It is very hard to noticed because it is a fast game and one may just think they made the ramp shot. I could make these (they would look much better) if it is a problem. I don't remember having the issue on my other shadows but maybe I wasn't paying attention. I noticed it because I am absolutely neurotic about my games playing perfectly.

It's a pain in the ass to test. I put my game in switch edges, partially raised playfield and I toss the ball at the drop. Then I manually lift the drop by reaching under the playfield. You can also play without the glass and keep taking shots at the drop target and after it drops send it back up the vux into the battlefield to reset the drop. Try again.

Let me know if your game is acting this way or it is just me.
20191023_215120 (resized).jpg

I bet it is. At first I thought maybe the game spotted you are ring with a new ball or something. Maybe a setting? Nope, those pesky drop targets. They wreak havoc on most games. They act like sling shots.

Hi guys, I had 25 of these made as I made a run of airball protectors. I'll throw an ad up. $18 shipped. Don't plan on making more unless demand is high, demand is low I'll drop the price. It was more of a novelty to make them and I wanted one in my machine that was engraved.
20191113_073627 (resized).jpg

Sorry, I make airball protectors for Indiana Jones and tales from crypt. I just made a run and so had guy make these as well. Yes, they are switch extenders.

This was one I hand made before having the laser cut and engraved.
ba4746b072d5ceb0223f6321a72e224abcafbd7b (resized).jpg

Link to buy.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/87645

I guess I should hold onto my spare.

Make me an offer I can't refuse. I'll have to look at the condition. I know it isn't perfect. I bought a ton of shadow parts from someone for a very reasonable price. I got an entire populated upper playfield, Both Divertor mechs, Phurbas, and some other stuff. I was stoked because they are unobtainium.

Thanks, I have about 18 left I think.

I would add wire. Simple. Game sucks without it. Making that shot and not registering during critical moments. Game killer.

This is why switch extender works, light shot will roll and get stuck with only switch with long arm.
My first shadow I used an extender and long switch arm.... But that's overkill.

I remember something was causing mine to hang up and it wasn't the switches after wasting a lot of time with them. It was up near the kicker arm iirc.

It's not a flawed solution. It is the best solution. People didn't start building these just because. I too had the switch extender, the issue is a very weak shot that barely makes the ramp doesn't have the momentum to roll past the switch, it hits it, rolls back and stops at the ramp. You have to that keep hitting the diverter button in hopes to get the ball rolling but that often won't work as the diverter doesn't hit the ball directly. It sort of just pushes it like you were slapping the side of the cab and rarely works. You then have to pull the glass. With the switch further down the line the ball has enough momentum to get passed the switch as long as you have it properly adjusted. Trust me, I wish you didn't have to have the extender and I'm sure every game is different but the three shadows I had all had this issue.

No offense, but your solution is the worst of the three because you switch isn't extended as long as the one you can buy and it doesn't even clear the wireform. With a enough momentum the ball rides up the ramp and up on the top of the wire form and launches clear over the switch. Especially if you have strong flippers. I noticed with the mantis ramps this is even more prevalent because I believe they are tad steeper. At least the ones I had were and I switched back to the originals and it remedied a lot of the ball flight issue.

You aren't reading my post. It isn't far enough down the wireform and it can cause the ball to roll back and rest were the wireform joins the ramp. You have to then remove the glass and push the ball down the wireform.

Og switch < longer switch blade < switch extender < switch extender WITH longer switch blade.

In all honesty they should have put the switch on the other side of the playfield where the wire form curves down to the inlane and put it under the wireform like the left diverter. I thought about doing this.

I had issues with my upper playfield on one of my shadows. There is a dedicated PCB under the playfield that controls the opto switch for the battlefield. It is the same PCB that controls the multi-mist ball on BSD. It is only used in these two games. They are notorious for having issues. There is an upgraded board made for this. I think it is about $80. Once i replaced the board my issue were solved.

Mine kicker would fire randomly and battlefield would stay on.

You need to adjust this plastic piece . It's causing ball to hang up.

20191208_194048 (resized).jpg

My current setup
20190926_204733 (resized).jpg20190930_205349 (resized).jpg20190921_205959 (resized).jpg
I lit every star post (which doesn't show in one of the pics) and removed the stock GI bulbs (pointless to have both). Sunlight GI and pinstadium (sunlight)

That stupid sanctum sticker still drives me nuts. I have been clearing all my playfields recently and will most likely swap out this playfield with a better and clear.

Cool. Unless the color contrasts too much I only use light blue. They are the best color star post made. My buddy and I always buy them. I think we just cleared out mad amusement of their stock. They only come on star wars I believe but they are the best. My WW, I500, F14, has them. Doing a Congo next but that color doesn't suit the game. I am in hoarding mode now as I don't know when they will be back in stock. I removed the red trough light on WW. Didn't like.
20190109_221136 (resized).jpg20190726_175911 (resized).jpg20190921_223909 (resized).jpg20191119_064724 (resized).jpg

Why do you have a credit dot after 8 years?

Change the backup high scores as mentioned above. Reset the high scores in utilities menu after you do this.

I put mine against the rail. Makes game so much more fun.

You don't have to remove everything to clear a playfield. Everything on top comes off and some bottom pieces. I just did my I500 and Congo. I will always clear playfields on my keepers going forward.

20191216_121908 (resized).jpg

20200111_122439 (resized).jpg

Fixed my sanctum by airbrush. Clearing playfield today.

20200130_211442 (resized).jpg

download_20200130_220327 (resized).jpg

Fortunately it wasn't.

I have a partial used set.

Should be fixable. I'll buy if you junk it and practice welding.

Anyone have glare issues sometimes affecting the battle field kicker? The ball sometimes rests on the kicker on the left side for a bit till the opto kicks in. I didn't have a ton of time to diagnose before heading out of town. Plays great with glass off. Optos register fine in switch test. Actually played fine last night. I pulled the battlefield out to clean the drop targets. I have pinstadium lights I made installed but I've done this on four shadows with no issue. For good measure I covered the lights with tape behind the opto. Thinking this is an easy fix, just wanted to have some ideas lined up for when I get back on Saturday. Wanted to make mechanical adjustments before possibly buying a 24 opto board for under playfield.

20200218_215034 (resized).jpg

20200220_090957 (resized).jpg

20200220_090949 (resized).jpg

20200220_090943 (resized).jpg

20200220_090935 (resized).jpg

FYI, just finished clearing playfield including battlefield. Want it to play perfectly. It is so fast.

I'll report back!

I ordered the opto extender from Marco. Inpatient as I am I tried a few things. Changed out backbox leds with sunlight. Seems to help. Also cut a drinking straw and hot glued them around the optos so nothing could interfere from top or bottom. Barely happens now.

Interesting note, that opto extender moves the opto further away from the other opto. Will be interesting to see if it works.

Installed the bracket. Removed the straw and works fine. Surprising how close to side of cab it places the opto. I noticed my battlefield was playing slow after. I could beat it everytime. Keep in mind this thing is cleared, waxed, etc. I swapped out the kicker coil. Seems to have helped. Some of the windings on the old were a little loose. I also lubed the kicker arm. I can't imagine the opto caused slowness. Think I'm all set now but will keep monitoring.

The elongated hole on the originals wears over time and increases in diameter, then the phurbas bang the ramps. It's a steep price for such a small part but necessary unfortunately. Yeah, they can be a hassle to install but I would rather deal with mechanical issues any day over electrical. Do it once and you will never have to again.

Black rubber is shit. Dead bouncy and dirty as shit. Get rid of that crap. If you don't like colors go with grey at a minimum. I know there is a bandwagon of haters pertaining to color LEDs and silicone rubbers. I don't deck my games out in color GI (I like sunlight) but why woudln't you want to upgrade rubbers, etc. All these wonderful products that perform and look better and people want to dig in their sclerotic heels and hate on anything other than "original". You ever see a stock game with incandescent bulbs and black rubbers? You can't even see the fucking game and it plays like shit much less having to shop it twice as often as the rubber deteriorates. They can't play a faster bouncier game so hate on it. Learn to adapt.

I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I love working on games more than playing them. I had this issue a well. My initial inclination was that the phurba shaft was bent and a slight variation in tolerances with the new bracket was causing it to bind in the diverter shaft. I greased the shaft, etc. to no avail. The shaft on the phurba was pretty straight, so that wasn't the problem. I had an extra diverter bracket and replaced my current which looked fine and it helped a lot. It was almost too easy to move and I worried a ramp shot would actually cause the phurba to shift to the center of the ramp. I increased the spring size and am back in business. The more I thought about it afterwards I sort of wish I tested the original diverter bracket that was binding slightly with the game on (my playfield was removed bc I clearcoated it and reassembled outside the game) because those magnets are pretty strong. You really hear them thunk when activated. I think a little bind is better than none just to keep the phurba in place. These are pinball machines and not a finely tuned watch. Their tolerances are like that of an AK-47 and not an AR15. So expect some slop and variation from machine to machine.

Make them. I buy plastic corner rails from koffersales. They come with adhesive and easy to cut and light weight. https://kofflersales.com/p/corner-guards-textured.asp.

Leds aluminum strips from aliexpress or splurge and buy from comet and I use the comet matrix system to connect. Use a comet dampener to adjust brightness. Total cost is about $30. I swear I should sell these.
20200305_211417 (resized).jpg
Resized_Resized_20200207_231741 (resized).jpeg

The beauty is you can adjust the darkness and it is even throughout. Those sling style spots are a bit old school and why clutter the playfield detracting from it? In addition, they only highlight areas of the playfield. I guess it is preference. You can see here the variation in adjusting the lighting. You simply turn a set screw and adjust to your desire. So nice. FYI, I had two different shadows in the last month so these are different games but you get the idea. You can make it very dark (not really any images of that below) or not. The flexibility is great.
20190926_204733 (resized).jpg20190930_205342 (resized).jpg20200305_211417 (resized).jpg

I'll sell you one for $80 shipped. Works perfectly. Just updated to color.

I'm running all light blue post in my game so upgraded these to get rid of nasty yellow. I might swap all squares to dark blue translucent as the don't make light blue but it would be over $100. Still on the fence but why stop short. I did so much to this.

20200323_225015 (resized).jpg

cut up superband flipper rubbers. Remove the stock foam unless you like airballs.

Superglue. Done this in numerous games. Foam is trash.