Quoted from dudah:Looks great next to JD!
Nice. Where did you get the speaker lights?
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider cserold.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from dudah:Looks great next to JD!
Nice. Where did you get the speaker lights?
In the club as of last Thursday. Want to bronze coat Wire forms and gun. You think legs would also look good with bronze coating or is that gaudy?
Quoted from dudah:Well, I bought em off eBay and wired them up to 12V.
I ordered some of the circular 90mm lights you installed in your shadow speakers. Now I have to figure out how to hook the wires below into 12V as you said. Would you let me know exactly how you wired this up to 12V? If you have links to any specific adapters, wire, etc, that I need to get the job done I'd really appreciate you sending them. Thanks for your help!
Quoted from dudah:I put an alligator clip on the red and clipped it on to the 12V test point on the driver board. Put a spade connector on the black and put that on the ground braid connection. Easy peasy.
Sorry to be such a pain in the a$$ but do you have a pic of the 12v test point location?
I shipped my wire forms off to be plated and the FedEx package had a large puncture hole in it. Looks like the small wire form that sends the ball to the Battlefield upper play field was lost. Looking to replace this wire form. I'm sure they are extremely hard to find but please let me know if you anybody has leads on one.
Craig
Quoted from lpeters82:My solution to battlefield illumination...
» YouTube video
Are the SMDs flush with the front of the paddle? I'm not understanding how you mounted these to the paddle without creating a funky front surface that the ball will hit. It looks great. Appreciate the input. -- Craig
Quoted from waldo34:Finally in the club, 10 hours of driving down only 1 more to go. Can't wait to get it set up and going.
Awesome. Congrats!
Quoted from Cserold:Are the SMDs flush with the front of the paddle? I'm not understanding how you mounted these to the paddle without creating a funky front surface that the ball will hit. It looks great. Appreciate the input. -- Craig
Sorry, look like they are mounted to the back of the paddle. Guess the light shines through the plastic ok?
Quoted from jonesjb:Not by hitting the ramps, but by missing and hitting the yellow targets. Try buying the reinforced yellow targets to minimize this.
I have the targets with the really thick backing. Hitting them head on often causes the air balls into the outlanes resulting in a drain.
Quoted from someoneelse:Is the foam backing thick or do you mean the metal? If it's the foam it depends on the material, not the thickness.
Have you adjusted the targets correctly? Leaning slightly forward they work best.
Referring to thickness of the foam
Quoted from per3per3:looks like most folks are using purple LEDs for the large mode inserts: which bulb types are recommended and why do folks recommend the comet purple over the cointaker purple?
I preferred the Cointaker super premium cool whites for my main mode lights. Also added gold mirror blades, newly brassed wire forms and trim. Got 15 games now and this one is still my favorite all around game.
Speaker lights get really saturated in the pics. Not near that bright.
IMG_4479 (resized).JPG
IMG_4476 (resized).JPG
IMG_5010 (resized).JPG
played around with some back box lighting tonight using a big variety of bulbs. Thought it came out pretty nice. Did a mix of blue super premiums (no top) and frosted purple super premiums for the sky. used cool whites around the moon, red supers on scarf area, and warm whites on shadows body. Lit the lamp in bottom left corner with warm white super (no top) and used difused orange opmax for the light over buildings on left side.
Hey guys,
Having an issue where the yellow paddle on the battle field is constantly firing once the ball enters the upper play field. I'm sure there is a switch that is stuck to close up there making it think the paddle has just been hit by the ball. Any helpful tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Craig
Quoted from RTS:Check the opto switch on the battlefield. When the opto path is blocked, it fires the coil.
It sounds like the opto may be dirty or possibly a loose wire/solder at the opto.
Thank you. Will check that now. -- Craig
Quoted from GRUMPY:No, but this is why I used the Matrix products. There are so many different things to choose from. We will be able to try stuff quickly and then try something else until we like it. I'm thinking I should have worked a deal with Comet first.
Here is what I did with the GRUMPY mod. Used both the GI and battle field active
Lighting. Mounted a purple strip in far back of cab above battlefield for the GI. Once the battlefield is active this strip turns off and two 6SMD pads turn on which are mounted to back metal brackets.
Here is you tube link and some other pics posted too. As always, the camera exaggerates the lighting.
Quoted from jonesjb:Looks really good, how did you attache the panels? Is there normally a screw there?
Thanks. I didn't use any screws for the led panels. I started with trying to use the adhesive that comes with them but they wouldn't stay so I used some e6000 adhesive glue. This game is never leaving so wasn't bothered by this being more permanent. It's hard to find spots for the lighting that aren't too in your face or that don't require drilling thru paddle, etc
In screwing around with the battlefield today it seems like I've created a couple of issues.
1. The battle field paddle is not nearly as responsive anymore to "pushing back" on the ball when the ball hits it. I had to replace one of the optos today and thinking maybe it's an opto alignment deal but the optos register perfectly in switch test mode.
2. The back drop targets go down and stay down after the first time they are hit. I'm pretty sure that, previously, they wouldn't go down until you reached the number of shots required to beat the battlefield. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Craig
Quoted from jonesjb:I had this problem before too, there is a build up of grime, you will just need to take the back droptargets down and clean them (I also added wax).
Thanks. I had the battlefield off for the first time today. I'm thinking i had to have done something while working on it. I will try cleaning them
Quoted from Cserold:In screwing around with the battlefield today it seems like I've created a couple of issues.
2. The back drop targets go down and stay down after the first time they are hit. I'm pretty sure that, previously, they wouldn't go down until you reached the number of shots required to beat the battlefield. Any ideas?
Wanted to provide some more background and info on this issue:
Having an issue on my shadow Battlefield. I removed the battlefield yesterday to install some new LEDS and replace the mini kicker optos. At one point the whole battlefield assy fell into the back box. I'm worried I may have damaged something when this happened. Here is what is happening:
The back bank of drop targets are not coming back up after being initially hit. They should only stay down if you have reached the required number of target hits to defeat the battlefield. Here is what I know so far:
1. All of the 4 targets have this issue (so its not related to gunk mechanically preventing just 1or 2 from coming back up)
2. All targets raise just fine in solenoid test mode
3. During game play when the ball enters the battlefield you hear the back drop target bank "clicking" 3 or 4 times as if its trying to test/check something but nothing happens...so I'm wondering if it's testing for something here and then disabling the function that raises the drop targets because this test fails?
Quoted from GRUMPY:Was it still attached by the hinge and just fell back into place hard or did it fall and land on something other than the mounting hardware?
It fell all the way to bottom of cab. I had it diconnected from hinges
Quoted from jawjaw:You can try cleaning the opto or you will need to replace it.
Thanks. I scrubbed the whole board so the opto is clean.
Quoted from Da_Topper:Happy 420 Shadow!
Pretty damn sweet. Did you use a clear rubber ring or something between the gun and cab? Do share....
Quoted from jonesjb:I discovered a new bug in the Shadow code today. If you tilt on Khan multiball while the ball is in the Khan hole (multiplier), the ball stays in the hold for the remainder of the game and any new games until another multiballs is started. The next multiballs operates as with 4 balls then. I didn't try this with Shadow multiballs or the mode hold.
Just saw this last week as well. If you ain't tilting you ain't trying
Quoted from scooter75:Picked up a NOS Shadow Playfield. Just wanted to share my excitement with everyone.
Very nice. There was one for sell on Pinside a few weeks back. Did that one sell? What are you going to do with the playfield?
Quoted from Maken:Beat the final battle for the first time tonight on what was my ~6th attempt. Finishing the upper playfield targets first is key, I attacked them immediately this time around and it worked really well.
Final shot for me was on the mode start hole for 1 billion points... sniped it with 0 seconds left, what a rush!
Still feels like a keeper.
Awesome man. It's a keeper no doubt. Still think it's the best game ever made. Can't explain it but it's all I really want to play
Quoted from jonesjb:Has anyone ever brassed out their Shadow? Thinking of doing the siderails and legs. Thoughts?
I brassed out mine...will take some pics and post in a just a bit.
Quoted from jonesjb:Has anyone ever brassed out their Shadow? Thinking of doing the siderails and legs. Thoughts?
Here you go. I didn't do the coin door on this one because I thought it was too much. Did all the wire forms and trim in brass and did the gun in black nickel.
Quoted from Cserold:Here you go. I didn't do the coin door on this one because I thought it was too much. Did all the wire forms and trim in brass and did the gun in black nickel.
Quoted from Pmaino:cserold where did you get that backpanel decal from?
Bought this from Blitzburgh99 and it was already on there. Maybe he can comment
Quoted from ForceFlow:Where did that topper come from? Can't say that I've seen that one before.
This is one of Laseriffic new toppers. It's killer
Quoted from ForceFlow:The guns pointed directly at the player may make some people uneasy.
Please tell me you are joking
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Anyone wanting to brass there shadow or powdercoat I Can do it and beat any price by alot. I got a thread going plenty of happy customers
Just curious...are those legs brassed or a goldish powder coat.
Quoted from ZMeny:Every time I think about selling it, I slap myself once or twice!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-the-shadow-loaded#post-4027953
Quoted from RTS:Looking for Shadow main cabinet decals, (mosty just the left side).
Anyone selling or know where they can be bought?
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop-cat/pinball-cabinet-decals/
Created a tech thread about my shadow resetting when you start a new game then push the right flipper button. Link below. Any ideas from fellow owners? Thanks! Craig
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-resets-when-right-flipper-button-pushed#post-4385136
Quoted from LOTR_breath:Could be a low 5 volts. Another thing to check would be the diodes on the right flipper coil. Does it ever do it with the left flipper?
Good question. I don’t think left flipper is causing same issue but I will confirm. Thanks for the feedback
Having a row 6 short issue on my TS. Post here if anybody can help I’d really appreciate it
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/row-6-ground-short-shadow-please-help#post-4645905
Quoted from yellowghost:Tried purple and blue. Still deciding which to use or go back to white or black.[quoted image]
i'm typically a big translucent fan but Shadow is one of a very few games where I prefer black.
Quoted from Squeakman:Pinstadium is vastly overpriced, offers no real options other than bling, bling and more bling. I asked in his forum why he didn't offer something without all the bells and whistles and he wouldn't even answer and I asked more than once. The only conclusion I can come up with is this guy is a giant money grab. I'd love to see an option to just light the game up better that just turns on and off with the game. At $300+ a pop most can't even afford it.
Are you kidding me? Outside of misrepresenting or not providing support, I will never understand the logic of people referring to any business that is selling a viable product to a customer base that is receptive of the product/pricing as a "money grab". That is what business is folks. Making as much profit as you can off your intellectual property, product or service while maintaining the perception of "value" on the consumer's side. This guy made a very, very cool product that is obviously priced correctly based on the "making bank" comments on this thread. People don't spend months/years in R&D to create a product and then price it just above time and material to sell a "unit". Good lord. Quit your crying and go glue some LED strips to the sides of your game if you want a cheap ass solution.
Hey guys, having issues with my ball lock release (for multiball at top-right of playfield). Posted details here is anybody has run into this before: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-multiball-release-help#post-5045987
Thank you! -- Craig
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:The only game I found that I really love Purple Dome Flashers on!! Great Light Show!
Art, I did this months ago based on your recommendation. Awesome change
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider cserold.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club?tu=cserold and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.