Not too difficult, as long as you have the right tools. From memory, you have to remove the grub screws (allen keys) in the diverter below the playfield to remove the diverter, then take out the screw at the back of the ramp (spanner), remove the optos which screw into the plastic and the screws which fix the ramp to the playfield (screwdriver).

If you can get hold of a sample, ramps should be a straightforward job at a decent sheetmetal shop.

No, you don't need the lanes. The 27 shots you do need are:

11 X Battlefield targets
7 X Mongol targets (inc the one up the top between the Sanctum and the Shadow loop)
4 X ramps
2 X Orbits
1 X Shadow loop
1 X Battlefield drop target
1 X Sanctum

This is according to the rules here: http://www.pinball.org/rules/shadow.html#Final_Battle
My Shadow isn't working right now so I can't confirm, but it sounds right. And the lanes definitely aren't required.

Most important thing is to get a ball(s) into the Battlefield early and take out as many targets as you can while you still have ball save and can ignore the other balls draining (ideally, you want to get the Battlefield drop target down with the ball from the saucer, then hit the second auto-plunged ball- you'll miss the first- into the VUK). Once ball save ends, keep hitting balls into the Battlefield if there's still targets to get up there, but don't switch your focus from the flippers. Also remember to move the diverters once you've hit the ramps in their original position.

Are you sure the ball's going to the left of the switch? I thought that was the problem with mine (the game would miss left orbits, but not right orbits) and kept moving the switch left, without fixing the problem. Then I took the glass out and found that the ball always registered on the left of the switch but sometimes missed on the right. I moved the switch back the other way and haven't had a problem since.

Biggest things are playfield wear in front of the Sanctum and the plastic rings above the ramps. Sanctum looks fine in the pictures (there will probably still be a small indentation if you actually touch it but this is pretty standard on The Shadow). The rings are all there in the pictures, but check them for damage, especially around the holes for the screws. These cost a couple of hundred to replace. Other than that, play the game- particularly the Battlefield- and as long as there's no major problems, it looks like it's in pretty good condition.

EDIT: What is the 6th photo (the inlane) supposed to be showing? Usually close-ups like this mean there's damage there but I'm not seeing any. Might be a good idea to check with the seller why that photo is in the ad.

Nope, I'd rather play with the original DMD as well. The animations were designed for monochrome so they don't look quite right in colour. Colour can seriously alter video modes as well- IJ's mine cart mode is much, much easier when played in colour.

Well I suppose that's true...but you could say the same thing about the Colosseum compared to a modern office block. I know which one I'd rather look at.

They look great (except the wall). Would love to see a game with these.

The globe often gets shaken loose due to the diverter smacking the side of the ramp repeatedly. I don't think there's much you can do about it.

The wireform sits on studs and is held in place by nuts. Try putting some washers on the stud closest to the bottom of the playfield below the wireform. That should make the wireform lean toward the back of the playfield and hopefully close the gap to <the ball's diameter.

Good, that means that mine will be worth more due to rarity.

Especially when you haven't been given the chance to "Use the flippers" because the ball's fallen through the gap between the wireform and the target.

That piece is there, doesn't look damaged. I've played a Shadow on location and the Battlefield played much slower than mine, maybe I need to adjust the power of the VUK and Battlefield kicker.

There seems to be a Super Vengeance award and a Super Vengeance mode, which are independent of each other.

The Super Vengeance award is collected by hitting the final flashing ring as a combo in either Vengeance or Super Vengeance mode. It doesn't need to be a four-way combo, two-way will do; just hit any ring, flashing or lit, and then hit the final flashing ring for 100 million (ordinary Vengeance award is 50 million).

Super Vengeance mode is started by hitting all four ramps consecutively, ending with the last ramp left flashing. You do not need all four rings flashing to perform the combo (i.e. if you light three rings and then lose control of the ball, you can still start Super Vengeance mode by hitting the three lit rings again followed by the flashing ring). The only advantage of Super Vengeance seems to be that the ramps start at 10 million rather than 5. They still only increase by 2 million each time. Collecting EITHER a Vengeance or Super Vengeance award during Super Vengeance mode restarts Super Vengeance mode. Collecting a Super Vengeance award during ordinary Vengeance mode DOES NOT start Super Vengeance mode, even if you hit all four ramps in a combo- it will restart Vengeance.

Sorry for the convoluted explanation. It's a convoluted ruleset.

I have LX-5 and loop champion score gets deleted whenever I change the setup from 3 ball to 5 ball.

Getting to Final Battle is the easy part. Completing it is the killer.

Khan multiball jackpot increases by 100K with each Khan rollover during multiball. I'm not aware of any way to increase Shadow multiball jackpot.

I really don't find either of these multiballs very useful. A super jackpot is worth the same as super vengeance, but much harder to get.

I'm pretty sure that during Final Battle they don't move, you actually have to hit every target.

My understanding is that the bottom two lights on the right go with the targets they're next to. The one next to the VUK wireform indicates the top spot target on the right hand side and the light at the top right goes with the right hand drop target at the back. The top left light seems to stay on until you've hit both targets adjacent to it, while all the others are self-explanatory. Note that I have not actually tested this with the glass out, and it's kind of irrelevant to me anyway since it's pretty well impossible to get any real precision with battlefield shots. I find that 3 or 4 solid shots with good side-to-side action usually clears most or all of the targets. Any that are left are often cleared by subsequent unintentional shots to the VUK, or shots to the right saucer.

No, there's an opto in front of it that switches on the magnet to grab the ball, and then the coil pulls the target down while the ball is held in place.

I suppose if the coil overheats it might do that (similar to LOTR flippers), but I wouldn't have thought that the magnet would be active long enough during normal gameplay for that to happen.

I had the same problem when I bought mine. Easily fixed with a TIG welder.

Check the grub screw first. If it's not tight it can cause the divertor to move half way, and it's easily fixed.

Final Battle doesn't have a time limit.

That's the best approach. When the original ball gets kicked out of the mode start saucer, go for the Shadow Loop (that's the best chance you'll get at that difficult shot), then target the VUK until you have a ball in the Battlefield. Make the most of it; ignore balls draining (30 second ball save will take care of that) and focus on clearing the Battlefield.

I had that problem for a while. On my game it seemed to be caused by the drop target sitting too far forward, giving the ball room to hit the back edge of the slot. Adjusting the position of the drop target fixed the problem.

Only if you don't have access to a welder. It's a very easy fix if you do.

The Extra Ball is always the 11th award to appear. You can get it early on if you're really aggressive and pick up all the points awards as quickly as possible. This is the easiest way to get the EB because there's only a few phurbas coming at you at that point. I've never bothered with the gun because I think the trade-off of taking your hands away from the flipper buttons isn't worth it. If you don't have time to dodge then you don't have time to reach for the gun, and if you do have time to dodge then what's the point?

It screws into the bottom of the Battlefield. There are holes for the screws in the bracket that holds the drop target assembly. You'll notice that the steel rail around the orbit has a cutout; this is where the plastic sits once the Battlefield is lowered.

Sorry for no photos, I can't find my USB cable.

The rings are probably the biggest thing. They don't come up for sale often and when they do they're ridiculously expensive. Mongol figurines (the game should have three) are available but costly (around $70 a set from memory). Diverters are another game-specific part that I assume are hard to come by, but haven't had to try finding them myself so not really sure how rare they are. Wall targets and Battlefield kicker are also game-specific, but not that rare or expensive.

I had this problem. Most likely the ball isn't activating one of the rollover switches. You need to know which rollover is not registering. Does the taxi animation play as the ball goes up the left side? If not, it's the left rollover that needs to be adjusted. If the taxi animation plays but the loop shot is not awarded as the ball comes down the other side then it's the right switch that needs fixing.

You can loosen the switch, move it over and re-tighten, or just bend the wire so that the ball will roll over it (the first option is recommended unless the switch is already as far over as it can go). Be careful: when I was dealing with this issue, I started by moving the switch the wrong way. The ball does not necessarily miss the switch on the side you expect.