Shadow, The
Bally, 1994You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider carl_694.
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Hey all,
Got a plating question. I am debating whether to have my ramps replated. I've seen some folks say they used brass plating, but I don't think there's a shop near me that will do that. Was planning to have the ramps get a clear powder coat after the plating to ensure longevity of the finish. Does that sound like a good idea? What else can I use other than brass? Here are the services offered by the more local company. Can I use zinc?
Quick question. The two posts to the right of the entrance to the left divertor ramp - the ones that are below where the mongol is mounted. Are they different sizes? The one toward the front of the ramp is a bit shorter on my game, forcing the plastic to bend a little. Based on the manual, it seems that's correct (looking at the size charts) but it seems like that would make the plastic prone to breaking?
The new going rate for TS? http://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/9340
Hey all,
Decided to sell my used plastics to the community. Hopefully it will help folks avoid having to buy complete sets unnecessarily. They are not perfect, but most are in nice shape. Just PM the plastic you need, along with the price.i started a separate fs thread with pics and updates of what's available.
Carl
Quoted from Wamprat:The left ramp diverter on my shadow gets a bit sticky and sluggish from time to time. Most of the time it works great but other times it will only go half way across or go too hard and bounce off the other side of the ramp.
Any ideas on a fix?
It also has the lx-4 gamecode, is this the right?
Could be loose hex screws holding the diverter. Replace with the hex caps like those used on flippers. Take one to Ace Hardware to get replacements.
Quoted from Tyson1868:Are you refering to the allen set screws that set and hold the position of the diverter? Are you able to post pics of the hex caps?
Same as used in flipper mechs. Just google "hex cap screws." I can get pics if you want, but it is very straightforward. The Allen set screws are easy to strip and it's hard to get them to bite well enough. The hex caps protrude so even if the interior hex recess were to strip, you can still get plyers on them.
They are the small hex cap bolts that are used on the flippers. They should be used on the diverter as well, instead of the recessed type that came with the game. Much less prone to stripping and easier to really tighten down.
Quoted from RonB:Have you checked the spring that pulls the target down, as well as the lever arm that pushes it up for alignment/wear. Also check the switch to make sure it's working properly and aligned so that it's not preventing the target from always dropping.
This is a good read about the whole target assembly if you haven't read it already:
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-shadow-sanctum-target-repair#post-1285556
This is a good answer. Definitely sounds mechanical. The pivot arm thing was really worn on mine.
There is an armature in the wall assembly that is prone to wear.
Quoted from charsiufan:Hi
My Shadow wall doesn't seem to be dropping far enough. Is it set up too high? Was working fine and I haven't adjusted it.
Any thoughts?Shadow Wall.jpg 124 KB
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Lexington, SC