Guy: I'm hopefully joining the club next weekend I have a quick question.
The gun: is it easy to remove ? I'll need to in order to get it into my gameroom.
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Guy: I'm hopefully joining the club next weekend I have a quick question.
The gun: is it easy to remove ? I'll need to in order to get it into my gameroom.
Guys!
I'm joining you all this weekend! I'm trading my very nice pinbot plus cash for a nice player Shadow. Will need a good shopout but I"m stoked! I've heard the shopout is pretty simple??
Of course I need to go across the border with pinbot to grab Shadow, so I'm dreading any snafus.
Can't wait to post pics!
Can some of you talk about the process of shopping TS? I plan on doing a full shop soon. It needs it.
I reviewed some YouTube Videos, but I'm wondering how you guys do it. Where to start? Ramps, diverters, etc.
Just looking for insight. I've shopped a few games but just wonderign your thoughts.
Please share
Quoted from Philk:Yes the diverters come out first, I'd also recommend upgrading from the grub screws to the hex socket head bolts while you're at it.
Can you elaborate a bit on this? What's a grub screw?
Guys, does anyone make any sort of protection for the right saucer? The one I'm bringing home is a little scuffed up. I didn't see Cliffys for it..
Thoughts?
Quoted from Pinmeister:I had similar damage which is caused by the a ball hitting the wood back of the saucer. When I restored my Shadow I took a dremel with a sanding attachment to reshape and smooth the back of the saucer and then spot cleared it. But for damage inside the saucer you might try the Mantis saucer protector for TOTAN.
http://www.mantisamusements.com/totan.htm
Thanks. I wonder if that protector would fit.
The ball ejects towards the flippers, correct?
Quoted from DavidC:hey Guys i needed something special on my second TS!!!
what do you think???shadow2 016.jpg 125 KB
I think it looks killer with the graphic. The font needs to be changed though.
Members: Thinking of redoing the head decals. I'd appreciate your feedback on my plan of attack.
Peel off old decals and sand the sides of the cab. I"ll probably just sand the middle section of each side where the decal was. OR I could sand each side completely, then spray paint gloss black prior to attaching decals.
Also, what kind of wood filler should one use in case I want to build back up any scratches?
Thanks!
It may be a little time before I get to this tata.
I found a website where a guy gives a step by step on how to do it. Looks fairly simple and doesn't require removing the head, etc.. just the bolts that go into the sides of the backbox.
Basically it was pull bolt, remove old decal, sand with palm sander, fill divots if there are any, resand, attach decal.
Wish this "club" would be a little more awake to these posts. Someone here must've done a redecal on the head before!
Quoted from Aurich:So do a search, or start a new topic. It's hardly a Shadow specific question, you'll have a ton more responses from the general site than you will in a club thread for a generic question.
My head decals were redone before I got the game apparently, they're in awesome shape.
Hmm. Thanks.
Quoted from charsiufan:Peter
Is there an easy way to get the balls out when flipping up the playing field?
Switch.jpg 123 KB
Go into Test mode. Test 18: empty ball test.
This will essentially kick out all balls. Easy way to remove!
pm me a price on that plastic with the skyscraper on it... dead center of your pic. The one that rides along the right side of the playfield
Quoted from jazzmaster:Sorry for the late reply...I only check this post once a month or so. I re-decaled the head of my Shadow a while back. Nothing to it. The steps you have outlined pretty much sum it up. I made the mistake of thinking it would be easier to sand the original decals off. Big mistake...just made an unholy mess! I quickly realized it was easier just to peel them off with the assistance of a flexible scraper. I used goo-gone to remove the decal residue. You will find white primer under most of the original decal. I filled the scratches and what not with Durham's Rock Hard putty and sanded each side completely. Masked off the head and sprayed it with rattle cans. Follow the usual rattle can best practices (several light coats) and you will be all set to re-decal. Oh yeah, you will want to use semi gloss paint for the best factory match. I used Rustoleum Painter's Touch semi-gloss black.
Great Synopsis.
Thank you.
Guys, I have a quick drop target question:
The target that blocks the VUK to the battlefield. When it's down, the ball will sometimes stop in the cutout. In other words, I think that when the target goes down, it goes down TOO far. It needs to be flush with the pf so the ball doesn't get caught.
Is the correct way to adjust this just a matter of that machine screw that points out at the bottom of the assembly? Just a matter of screwing it up a little? How do I get the drop target flush with the pf?
yeah, I'd tend to think check the trough switches. Sounds like the game is not seeing any balls in there (or at least one of the switches isn't), and therefore kicking them outta the sanctum locks.
Guys, I've asked this before months ago, but cannot find the posting:
When the drop target is down for the battlefield entrance, the ball sometimes will sit in the playfield slit for the drop. In other words, the drop target, when down, sits too far into the playfield. Needs to come up just a tad so it's flush with the pf.
How do I adjust this on the mechanism to raise the positioning of drop target when it's down?
Thanks
Quoted from jk2171:I believe there's an adjustment screw at the bottom of the metal bracket which will stop the target from dropping too far.
Thanks. That's what I was thinking. Just wanted to have an idea prior to popping the hood tonight.
I can tonight if no one posts by then.
Youre talking about the entrance to the battlefield drop, correct?
So after I was under the pf taking pics, my wall started to act up. I think the issue is whether that bar my finger is on should be down (or not) when the target is up. Can anyone help? Is this pic correct? Should that bar be down hitting the switch when the target is up?! The bar goes down due to gravity, but I'm thinking it shouldn't be. Help. image-362.jpgimage.jpg
Exactly.
That switch should only activate when the wall target hits it NOT the metal adjustment bar.
My adjustment bar was activating the switch and this was the issue. Easy fix.
Good luck finding that left diverter bracket. Impossible to track down.
I would take the pieces to a metal shop and see if someone can weld it back together.
Hopefully he can fix it.
I grabbed one of these brackets when I could, just in case mine breaks too.
Quoted from o-din:I just bought a brand new one from PPS about a month ago. They had several. Can't find it on their website now though.
Really? I've never seen the left assembly bracket. Only the right. Cool if they have it!!
Check the switch under the pf for the wall. Only the red wall itself should trigger that switch NOT the adjustment bar. The adjustment bar shouldn't activate the switch ever.
I hate this issue two days ago. Could be the on you're having. Just the wall should activate the switch.
Quoted from Bishop:Those drill marks... I have them too. The only idea I came up with regarding those holes is that there was a plastic holder of sorts screwed into the board holding either flyers or some other paperwork as mine still had some plastic left.
Yep. Mine too. Seems like bluish green plastic residue inside the drill holes. Really weird.
Quoted from rcbrown316:Gonna be selling tit too. It screams "buy me" doesnt it?
Sure does!
Quoted from Memphis777:Finished replacing the back box decals this weekend, and I'm happy with how they turned out. It's a shame I have one side against a wall where it can't be seen, may have to move some machines around.
IMGP0321.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
IMGP0322.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
IMGP0324.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
Looks great.
Did you paint the backbox at all? Repair any scratches etc? Looking to do my wh20 and looking for tips.
Quoted from Memphis777:I removed the old glue, sanded the old paint off the top and sides using an orbital sander, repaired some drill holes and dings with wood filler, sanded everything smooth, and finally repainted. I also cleaned the old bolt heads and painted them too.
Great.
Thanks for sharing.
Quoted from BrooklynDrug:Here's some pics of my shadow from blackbeard. A very nice machine, thanks again man!
main.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
main2.JPG (Click image to enlarge)main3.jpg (Click image to enlarge)main4.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
Need's a shop, some things need to be worked on, but very happy to do so!
I'll be asking my fellow shadow club members for some advice I'm sure.
Glad you're loving it. It's a sweets pin. Let me know when you get to final battle !
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