Quoted from Aurich:

You don't drag and drop to the post reply box where the text is, but under it. There's that little grey rounded rectangle with the dotted line border that says "Drop files here to upload". Any standard file format should work fine (jpeg, gif, png) just drop it on that box and it will upload.
Then you click the little "insert into post" button next to each one you've uploaded. That will stick the code into the text box to show the image.
Your pics sound worth figuring it out so we can see!

Quoted from tonycip:

I was playing mine today and noticed that sometimes the upper play field bat doesn’t always come back after a hit om the ball so the next time the ball come to hit the bat it sometimes hits it real soft or the ball has to almost push the bat back so it can come forward ,any ideas ? I haven’t taken it apart yet..I'm thinking maybe a spring or gummed up mech...

Quoted from Aurich:

Damn. That's hot, definitely take more pics! I'm waiting on a chrome shooter from Mike right now, and it's got me thinking about doing at least my wireforms next.

Quoted from SteveO:

I had my gun chromed and the wireforms brass plated by Mike Chestnut and it made a huge difference. I never thought about doing the ramps. That looks nice. Definitely watch out for the diverter hitting the ramps. It took some adjusting to limit the hits it took. I used a regular allen. I'm not sure if there is something better.

Quoted from webdiddy:

An update on my personal dynamite comics translite.

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Quoted from SteveO:

The Shadow kicks my butt more than any other game in my collection. It is so difficult and challenging which is a draw for my but I'm frustrates someone who wants a casual game.

Quoted from RonB:

Can't wait to get mine back! Looks great in the pic, I'm sure even better in person!
I'd replace the coil sleeves first, and also check the linkage under the playfield for binding.
L-6 is the latest code. Get a new one from John Wart.

Quoted from Carl_694:

Could be loose hex screws holding the diverter. Replace with the hex caps like those used on flippers. Take one to Ace Hardware to get replacements.

Quoted from Aurich:

Mike Chestnut chromed shooter installed.

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Quoted from Carl_694:

Same as used in flipper mechs. Just google "hex cap screws." I can get pics if you want, but it is very straightforward. The Allen set screws are easy to strip and it's hard to get them to bite well enough. The hex caps protrude so even if the interior hex recess were to strip, you can still get plyers on them.

Quoted from Pinballrus:

Can we talk about the ring bulbs?
These are beginning to frustrate me, the 2 on my left ramp seem to blow more often then they should.
Anyone have any tips or tricks I should know?
The right side of the left ramp also wants to pop out all the time, I've wrapped it in tape with minimal success. I was thinking of putting a dab of hot glue to hold it in.

Quoted from Aurich:

If you ever hear someone refer to "staged flipping" that's what they're talking about. Often it's the opposite of your example, where you *do* want to fire The Shadow Loop upper flipper, but not the bottom, because you're cradling a ball on it during multiball.

Quoted from fosaisu:

I'm in! Thanks to dannunz for selling me his very nice game. I'm relieved to report that it made the trip from Mass to Colorado by STI without serious incident. Snuck a few games in the past few evenings and I'm loving it, seems like a perfect first machine for me. Now I just need to get Aurich's translite installed.

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Quoted from RonB:

Just a little update on my Shadow project. It's been slow going as time permits, but just tried my hand at wood repair and air brushing for the Sanctum area. It's not perfect, a tad on the light side, but I still have to sand down the edges and clear after I apply the water slide decal. Still better than using the e-bay decal.
Also got in a bunch of stuff this week, starting with Aurich's awesome translight and a CPR plastic set Monday.
Then today, Tuesday, I come home to find a big box from Mike Chestnut. Contents include brass plated wire forms, diverters and new Mantis ramps.
Lastly from Mike is the gun. At first I wanted it brass as well, but he said it wouldn't blend unless I went with brass trim and lock down bar, so I said do it in chrome. Well, I'm guessing he went with my original e-mail/wish and it came done in brass. I'm glad he did, because it looks great! I know it doesn't blend and it's not true to the movie, but I really like it. I guess down the road I may consider doing the rest, but that's enough $$ for now!
I did a mock-up on the cab to get a better idea of how it looks, I won't install until I'm done.

OUTSTANDING!!

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Quoted from fosaisu:

To answer my own question, the GI bulb under the right ramp is replaceable using this "1/4 inch Drive Universal Joint" angle attachment for your socket wrench, $5 at Home Depot if you don't own one already:
This attachment was also handy in replacing the right ramp flasher (accessible but a real PITA to get out with a standard socket wrench).
It was still a bit of a hassle to get the screw out and then back in again after swapping in the LED, so if you don't already own this or a similar tool I would only recommend doing this if you're anal enough about this kind of thing that it's always going to bother you a little bit that you only converted 97% of your GI to LEDs. I'm that guy, so I'm glad I made found a suitable tool for the job and got that last LED installed.

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Quoted from gweempose:

Nice game. Final Battle is one of the best wizard modes ever.

Quoted from RonB:

Took a closer look at my VUK wireform mounts and noticed the right side was sitting on top of the plastic protector, the gap would occasionally let a ball fall off. Took it all apart, trimmed the protector and put a nut under the left side of the wireform mount so it would center out with the battlefield. All better now.
Before:
After:
EDIT: Are all of yours sitting at an angle like this? (Pic #4) I don't see how else to mount this and the battlefield is as far forward as possible.

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Great question I had the same when replacing wireforms. I will take pics of mine but it is similar to the original configuration. I will adjust following your advice.
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Quoted from Chemixtry:

I've seen several people ask about how the plating on the divertors hold up over time but I dont believe I've seen a response. Considering having them brass plated like the ramps, chrome plated, or just polishing as good as I can on buffing wheel. The brass plated divertors look great but Im concerned that it will not hold up over time.