Can anyone take a picture of the configuration of switch 55 from underneath the playfield, the battlefield drop target? Specifically, the wiring and diode configuration.

Trying to troubleshoot bizarre behavior after replacing the switch. Thanks.

nevermind. resoldered a different diode, and all good.

I got the target for my game, and it's a much stronger plastic. Even without the lighting effects, it's a better target overall.

The original target is flimsy and very crappy in comparison. This target is a vast improvement. And visually, it looks way better. It illuminates the area nicely. The kit comes with a white bulb, but was easy to change to red which works well with the brick pattern.

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No, it's normal.

You have to make a set number of hits (30 the first time) before the back targets drop.

Yes, you're right. The guy's question was a bit vague. I thought he believed they should always stay down when hit.

Carefully remove the C-clips holding the targets to the board. You should be able to separate the green board from the targets. Clean the mechanical mechanism and the plastic targets if there is a lot of dirt. The clips are visible in the picture you posted. There are 4 of them

From what I see from your picture, they don't look particularly dirty. Manually push them to see how easily they snap down. If they don't drop or drop slowly when your finger pushes it, they're probably gummed up, and I'd use a q-tip and rubbing alcohol. If they snap down fast and slide up smoothly, they ain't dirty.

I know we can add spots to the upper battlefield to give it better lighting, but is there a way to illuminate the battlefield only when it's active with a ball up there, and then goes out again once the ball is gone?

Has anyone made a mod for this?

I've thought about that, but I don't think you can just "wire" it. I think it needs a small logic board to provide illumination to the battlefield only when it's active.

Perhaps using a mod like the pig board, maybe. Someone smart must know how to do this.

I had intermittent issues that I fixed when I disassembled and cleaned the target and adjusted the switch.

My original yellow target was very flexible and was inconsistent. After I replaced it with the harder plastic target, it was been working flawlessly. Much snappier and totally dependable. And looks way better too.

Would it be possible to have this battlefield LED strip only be lit when there is a ball on the upper playfield, ie, just when the paddle is active?

Well, if we're revealing tricks about shooting the trigger during a game, give it a try in the middle of the "Duel of Wills" video mode.

It is very helpful for the EB.

You are not alone in the upside-down Shadow experience. I was moving my Shadow down three narrow, steep steps. The wheels got stuck on the last step, so I pushed it forward until the center of gravity got away from me. I flipped over with the game holding onto the hand truck.

I had completely wrapped the game with thick blankets. I managed to avoid damage (except to my pride). No broken glass at all.

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After years of ownership, I finally beat the Final Battle, becoming a member of that club.

Getting a new color LED display last week rejuvenated my focus.

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My game is on factory settings. It helps to focus on starting scenes. Starting all the scenes is usually the hardest requirement for me. You need to average starting more than one scene per ball.

I also rely on extra balls. You earn one for finishing the Battlefield (you still need to collect it at the scoop).

It also helps to get the extra ball during the "Duel of Wills" video mode. A key trick to get that extra ball during the video mode is to use the gun trigger. If you pull the trigger, it will clear the screen and give you a few seconds to score the targets without risk. One of the targets is an EB reward. Try to play the video mode as long as you can before pulling the trigger - the EB target shows up toward the end. This extra ball is instantly awarded - no scoop shot needed.

Your lit battlefield is nice, but when is someone gonna figure out how to only light the upper playfield when it is active?

A mod like that would probably sell to almost everyone who owns a Shadow.

An interesting idea for sure. It's cheap enough to give it a shot.

There has gotta be someone clever enough to figure out how to work something out.

As others have said, the true vibrancy of the LED colors are not properly captured. It looks amazing and very bright in person.

Check the reflection of the red in the playfield glass to see how deep the red really looks.

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Plug and play is preferred.

But If you can make a working prototype, I'd be willing to build my own board provided there were clear instructions on what components to buy, and how to assemble and install.

This is the best of the bunch for sure. Looks great.

Only wish the lettering was in green to match the lettering on the apron.

Some of my most successful battlefields happen when I keep the paddle still and it bounces back and forth multiple times. Not sure if 4 seconds might not be a safer default. I'd hate to have to move the paddle to keep the lights on when keeping it still is working on the hit total.

It's tough to know for sure. But in any case, I'm interested as well.

Do you have video of a working prototype?

It works. So how/when can we order?

Check the opto switch on the battlefield. When the opto path is blocked, it fires the coil.

It sounds like the opto may be dirty or possibly a loose wire/solder at the opto.

I drilled a flat wide washer to the underside of the playfield to act as a guide for the diverter shaft.

It was easier to drill holes into the washer than I expected. A Google search provided instructions on how to do this.

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LED display pics are in post 3367. Here is a link.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/68#post-3489307

Looking for Shadow main cabinet decals, (mosty just the left side).

Anyone selling or know where they can be bought?

Shadow is 28.75". ( I just measured it.)

It will be a tight fit with just 1/8" on each side, but it will fit,

Red is not bad, but if you're making a change to the display, go color DMD.

The color LED on this game looks great, especially the green color in the score numbers.

Check that standard adjustment setting 28 Minimum Volume Override is set to "Yes."

Not really sure what the issue would be. I also have the same set up with a pinnovator board and an external sub.

I could only suggest disconnecting the external sub to remove that variable. Then check the wires and connectors on the board.

You don't need to "tear the playfield off" to check for a loose or broken wire on the battlefield.

The upper pf will lift up like a car hood. Just remove the thumb screws, before lifting it up. No tools required.

Did you recently replace any switches with diodes?

I had a similar experience with strange behavior on my Shadow, and it was because I installed the diode backwards on a newly replaced switch.

Reversed it, and everything was good.

Check out the Led Flex bulbs from Comet.

It will allow you to bend and aim the light while still providing clearance for the pf glass without interfering with the ball on the battlefield.

Lift the mini playfield up and reseat it .

It is hinged and lifts up like a car hood. Probably wasn't aligned properly the last time it was set back down before it was tightened.

My problem with LCD is the colors are bland and washed out.

The LED is not only brighter (which I think looks better) , but the colors are more vivid. Especially the greens in Shadow.

I also think the classic dots look the best. And full disclosure, I've got both LCD (2) and LED (3).

Prefer LED for all future purchases. .

I saw this topper from the ACNC thread and thought it'd be a cool mod to flash during the multiball as it kind of copies the DMD. It's a Gemmy LED projector.

Anyone know how it could activate only during MB?

That credit dot might represent a beneficial error that helped with your high score.

This makes the Khan shot too easy.

The super jackpot is a gimme this way, plus starting modes is no challenge either.

Shadow is one of my favorite games because of the brutal challenge.

I thought it was "What in Christ was that?!"

Had the different shade of blue somehow been associated with an LE version back in the day, pinsiders would be scrambling to have that color.

I've had the game 10 years and I honestly don't know for sure which is the original from that picture. I'd actually have to go look at my game.

People have no problem sticking a big round ugly green sticker to cover their worn sanctum area. That, I can notice.

I went the other way.

Adding just a subwoofer on my Shadow made a huge difference. No need changing the speakers.

Cranking the volume up is like theaters showing Earthquake in Sensurround back in "74. Really rumbles, enhancing the experience.

Question to all you Shadow experts....

What is the best way to fix the occasional ball hang-up from the LEFT diverter when it's feeding to the RIGHT habitrail (back to the right flipper)?

On weaker shots, the ball can be moving so slowly, that when it hits the actuator on that microswitch, it gets stuck and I have to open the glass.

I remember seeing a fix for the switch, but I'm unable to locate the post. Also, can that microswitch be easily swapped with an opto switch? (I've got a spare opto board in my toolbox.)

I just ordered the switch from Matt this morning.

Appreciate the responses.

I used a thick washer screwed under the playfield. See post here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/76#post-3734248

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After I rebuilt my flippers, I can backhand the left ramp from the left flipper.

And before I rebuilt my flippers, I could occasionally backhand the mode start from the lower right flipper.

I just installed this mod.

My immediate impression was blocking the saucer was a vast improvement. I wasn't thinking about it making any difference, but it just instantly seemed better to me.

Watching the ball sit in the scoop and do nothing was anti climactic. Blocking it adds mystery.

Also, shooting a ball through the tunnel created by the radio makes the ball look like it's moving faster and the shot is more dynamic

I never thought the saucer area needed anything, but the radio fills it perfectly.

My only issue is the ghosting led bulb that came with the radio. It has a constant flicker effect. I'm convincing myself it adds authenticity to the effect of an old tube radio.

I think colored tiny led's for knobs indicating the specific function would be cool, but it would not be consistent with the era of the radio.

I replaced the provided white bulb with a spare amber bulb I had. The radio has an amber filter so the provided white bulb looks amber as well. I was just comparing. Both were similar.

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If you have positively identified that the brown GI string is out, the best way to determine if it's a board problem is to remove the board and check continuity on the circuit. I've wasted more time being lazy not wanting to remove the board.

It is the most efficient method. It's also the most likely cause of the broken circuit.

Just run continuity and I'll bet you'll find the problem.

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If you have no experience using a DMM or soldering, sending out the board makes the most sense.

Checking for continuity simply means placing the two probes of the DMM at each segment of the circuit shown in the graphic, and listening for a tone at the proper setting.

A tone indicates an unbroken path which is good. If there is no tone, you could solder a jumper wire on the backside of the board between the points to complete the circuit.

Any burned headers and connectors should also be removed and replaced which takes a little practice with soldering skills. This is considered a DIY repair in time.

There is a lot of info available on performing these GI repairs. because they are common. It's definitely reparable.

Focus on one thing at a time. Might have been good to create a separate thread for your game.

If money doesn't matter, sure, buy a replacement board and try and fix your old board to learn, have a spare, or sell. If you buy a used board, it's probably one that was no better than yours before being repaired.

In any event, don't throw away your old board. It's a relatively small thing that can be fixed.

You should still replace any burned connectors in your game before attaching to the new board. You'll need a crimping tool, connectors (and possibly more wire to lengthen if the existing ones are really short.)

The problem is ithere is ZERO challenge if you get the left saucer simply by holding up the upper flipper. Starting modes is the toughest shot in the game.

Making a left orbit isn't that hard and that's all you really need to know to make the center saucer with that setup.

You should be reaching Final Battle frequently if the upper flipper is a gimme. Would certainly make Super Jackpots less special too.

Totally agree. The game is an ass-kicker. The zero challenge I was referring to was specific to the Khan saucer.

I'm very familiar playing games with less than 2 modes started. And I have never gotten to FB without the help of extra balls.

But when things start to flow and shots are working, the game is very satisfying.

Is the switch to the right side of the left ramp causing the interference with the ball?

If so, you might try replacing the micro switch with an MRS, which works without touching the ball.

https://pinside.com/pinball/biz/directory/1772-mampm-creations

I also had periodic unregistered orbits, but was able to make physical adjustments. I can't remember what I did, but now orbits are working 100%. Didn't need a MRS to fix it.

But the MRS I added on the right side of the left ramp was the only way I got that switch to work with 100% accuracy.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mampm-creations-mrs-catalog

Here is the specific post regarding the MRS for Shadow:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/150#post-5845305

Actually it would make Super Jackpots a lot easier. SJP's are extremely rare for me.

Khan occurs almost every game and I don't have the upper flipper auto scoop setup on my game.

The Shadow multiball super jackpot is lit at the Khan scoop after you score enough jackpots by making the upper flipper loop shot during mb.

If you lock a ball or two during this mb you can double or triple the regular jp value.

The khan SJP is the one from the upper pf.

Yeah, it don't come easy.

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Yep. For me, the most elusive requirement to reach Final Battle is playing every mode.

With just holding the upper flipper to start a mode, I'd be getting to Final Battle every day.

I have an unused decal that I would sell for cost.

EDIT: SOLD

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