Shadow, The
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Well, I joined The Shadow Club and Pinball Club today (my first pin). It needs some cleaning, but the playfield is in really good shape; no marks around the Sanctum ball lock.
I'm hoping the habitrails can be cleaned, but I suspect they'll need re-finishing. At any rate, here is a pic of it in my garage. I need to get it setup and cleaned to see what I'm really dealing with.
I found what I believe is an issue. When the right(bottom) flipper is up and the ball comes down and hits it, the flipper goes down. I assume that isn't supposed to work that way? Is that indicative of anything in particular?
As far as I can tell the flipper has plenty of power when hitting the ball, but seems like the power is cut when the ball hits it with force. Meaning, when it rolls down from the top of the machine, not a slight bump.
Any insight would be appreciated.
So, the two phurbas on my machine appear to be slightly different colors. Additionally, when I bought it, the guy had a unpainted one. I can only guess that he or someone tried their hand and making a mold of one and did a cast. At any rate, I was thinking about painting them so that they match. So, I was wondering if anyone might be familiar with Createx paint colors and could suggest a golden color that would be close to the original? I can just buy some paint, but though I'd check here to potentially save some trial and error.
Cheers!
Quoted from gismo31:hello, i'm desperalty searching for a plastic set. anyone is selling these ? thanks for helping !
Checked the Market yet? There are is one person selling the plastic and another parting out a Shadow:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/37896
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/41038
Quoted from Tsskinne:The Shadow did not apparently want to welcome me back into the club last night
Luckily with tipping upside down the vast majority of glass didn't get into the game or cabinet, still wanted to cry.
Damn dude! 
I'm glad it wasn't worse and you were able to get it sorted out.
Thanks for the responses!
Onemoresean, out of curiosity, do you know if yours is the original plastic piece? Yours looks more like the one that came with the plastic protector set I bought. But, even that doesn't extend as close as yours to the habitail.
Humm, I guess I'll get a new piece of plastic that extends towards the habitrail a little more. Hopefully that'll take care of it. Luckily there is a plastic shop not too far from me. Should be able to get some scrap for cheap/free and fabricate something that'll prevent the ball from getting stuck. 
Quoted from jonesjb:Lamprey, I stand corrected. I checked and I can confirm your plastic is indeed backwards. There are four screws the plastic should be screwed in by the top two screws, this tapers the plastic so the ball rolls properly upwards.
Thanks for the confirmation. I'll give it a try and see.
Quoted from RTS:After years of ownership, I finally beat the Final Battle, becoming a member of that club.
Getting a new color LED display last week rejuvenated my focus.
Kick ass RTS!!
I just started tearing mine apart for a restore. Hopefully, I can get it back together by Christmas and begin my quest for the Final Battle!!
Any tips for us noobs?
Quoted from GRUMPY:How many people are interested in this? Are you willing to build your own boards? Or does it have to be plug and play?
Like others I prefer a plug-n-play solution (I don't mind soldering though).
That having been said, I'm not sure what others are thinking, but all I'm looking for is a 6 (or 12) volt line that powers up when the playfield is active. That way I can pick the lighting I want. Not sure if that's what others had in mind or not when they say "plug-n-play."
I haven't spent much time looking into a solution, so curious what you have in mind!
Quoted from GRUMPY:Depends on how many people are interested, 18 so far.
Quoted from KingDaddy:Anyone have a set of head decals (or know where to get them)? Thanks!
I have an extra set that I was going to post, eventually. Just been busy lately.
I have a repro set from RetroRefurbs if you are interested. I'd sell 'em for $60 shipped paypal gifted.
Quoted from Lamprey:I have an extra set that I was going to post, eventually. Just been busy lately.
I have a repro set from RetroRefurbs if you are interested. I'd sell 'em for $60 shipped paypal gifted.
Sold!
Quoted from simplykind:Is it a common issue for the ramps to split apart?
I don't know if I say common, but it does happen.
If that happened to you, you can try welding them. If you are looking for replacements I think Mantis has them:
https://mantispinball.com/product-category/the-shadow/
Quoted from GRUMPY:Thanks, I designed this for the one purpose only. I'm sure it could be used for many things but small changes would be necessary. If you want something for your pin just let me know and I could see if it would work.
Grumpy,
Would it be cheaper, easier, mostly cheaper to make a version that has no delay (and is 6volt only)? The reason I ask is that I was thinking about something very similar for the eject holes. Basically, the are lit by one led (color 1) normally via the GI and when the arrow in front of the eject is lit the hole switches to use by another led (color 2).
Just spit balling a color changing eject light mod.
Quoted from waldo34:Finally in the club, 10 hours of driving down only 1 more to go. Can't wait to get it set up and going.
Already updated your profile as an owner before you get it in the door!!
Congrats! Should be fun!
Received the battlefield light mod from grumpy on Friday and got it installed on Saturday. Tried a few light placement combinations and bulbs. Ended up mounting to the posts near the optic sensors and used some yellow lights. I originally wanted to mount the lamp socket where the screws hold the optical sensors, but there wasn't enough clearance for that. However, you might be able to do so with a flexible LED, not 100% sure though. Here are before and after shots. The before shot I did alter the brightness as my camera made it appear brighter than it is to the naked eye. The after pic is unaltered.
As far as the mod goes, it obviously works just fine and don't have any complaints because I know what it was designed to do. If I could get the "ultimate" battlefield light mod, it would work pretty much the same, but wouldn't require the paddle to move before the lights come on. Small nit-pic I realize. But, when people that don't know the game play it they don't realize what is happening (the battle field starting up) they tend to not move the paddle and sometimes don't even see the ball drain past the paddle. Having the battlefield light up when it becomes active would really help with the context.
Overall, I have to give the mod a big thumbs-up because it does illuminate the battlefield in the really nice way!
Does someone have a part number for the upper playfield mini kicker coil stop (that goes with the AE-25-1000 coil)?
And is there a good place to look up this information? I looked at the shadow manual and it tells me the coil number, but not the coil stop part, at least from what I see.
Quoted from Pesmerga:How did you get to Remove rivets?
Thank you, do you have a link or can suggest a key word to look for them?
Hope they didn't drill in the rings to fit the bigger lamps
If you didn't already find them, the only place I know of to get them is from Australia:
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/24-8856.html
Assuming that your wires still have the molex connector on the end you just need a pin tool to pop them out and put new ones in.
I finished my restore, which you can check out here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-refresh
I have an extra set of white-pearl gun grips if anyone is interested. I'd take $60 (includes shipping in the US).
Here are a couple of pics. One comparing them to the originals. One showing the gain/textue, as they have some gold flecks in them (Note: they are not that yellow, I just couldn't get a close up with the flash to work). And a pic of what they look like on the machine.
Cheers!
gun_grips_closeup (resized).jpg
Quoted from enkiktd:Hoping someone has some insight into a sanctum lock problem we've been having. The sanctum will lock balls correctly, but when Shadow multiball begins sometimes the sanctum will not release its locked balls. This doesn't happen every time, but probably 1 out of every 3 games.
Trying to clean the game up before NWPAS and this is the last thing I need to address.
Is the coil not firing to release them or is it firing and they aren't getting out?
Unfortunately, I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to pinball. The one thing I'd do is go into the test menu and fire that coil and see if it fires consistently.
If it were me I'd replace the coil sleeve and stop (or at least inspect them) to make sure it's not binding. I'd also look at the solder connections to the coil as well as the wires. I had wire broken inside the sheath about 2 inches from the end that was the cause of the upper playfield coil firing intermittently.
Quoted from jimjim66:I would like to see some guns/gun handles that were redone to get some ideas. Different color handles, materials, black nickel coating, regular chrome, etc....I plan on getting my done next year after I do some other projects.
Thanks.
Nothing too fancy. Just re-chromed with white pear grips.
As Oldpinguy mentioned, I don't know of anything "off the shelf." I had some 1911 made without holes and then customized them a bit myself.
Quoted from fosaisu:Can you share details on how you had those grips made? They look sweet! I chromed my gun and the stock grips now look pretty shabby by comparison.
Quoted from jimjim66:Nice. That's what I'm talking about.
Where did you order, and how did you customize?
Sure thing. I got them from Tombstone Gun Grips modeled after 1911 grips. Since The Shadow holes don't match up with 1911 grip holes I just had him shape them, but not drill the holes. I did the holes myself to make sure they lined up with the shadow holes. I used a combination of regular and forstner bits for the holes. Additionally, I notched them similarly to the stock Shadow grips. And, of course, buffed them to have a nice shine!
Quoted from fosaisu:Thanks for this! Did you consider sending in a tracing to have him drill the holes and add the notches for you? Or would there have been significant additional cost for that? Also, do you know if you ordered the "Colt 1911 Smooth (16a)"? And what thickness did you go with (he offers thin/medium/thick).
I didn't even ask about sending a tracing. He seems pretty response on email, so you might ask him about that.
As for what I ordered, yep it was the Colt 1911 Smooth (16a) in Medium thickness. I suspect that Thick would also work great, but Thin would be too thin to counter-sink the bolts.
Quoted from yellowghost:Has anybody bought those shadow background decals that are selling on ebay? And if so, are they real thin or have some kind of thick backing on them?
You mean the ones that cover the back wall with the three flashers?
If so, they are just a sticker with cutouts. Not "wafer" thin, but not padded in any way.
Quoted from yellowghost:A while back I asked if anybody has tried those small LED bulbs in place of the regular ring bulbs..well since those bulbs are fragile and hard to come by here..I tried a regular 555 LED and it works great.
Quoted from fosaisu:Nice! Not too blinding when it flashes?
I also love the background objects in this photo. Adds to the air of mystery ...
I did the same thing a while back except I used a 4 smd led. It wasn't too bright per se, but wasn't as diffused as the little incandescent bulbs, so I cut a few pieces of wax paper to help difuse the light to avoid "hot spots."
Also, added some hot glue to where the wired plug into the "socket"; Helps prevent them from vibrating loose.
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Anyone have brass plated ramps in there shadow
I do. I know there are several.
Here is a post with some pics:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-refresh#post-3807539
Quoted from SPARKY70:Hi. I noticed during test mode that the GI lights on my Shadow dont dim during GI test. They are at full brightness all the time.
I assume that they should dim on the shadow. Can anyone confirm?
I read in another post that adjustment #25 "allow dim illum" needs to be set to yes, and mine IS set to yes. Is there anything else i can check? Thanks. Sparky
They pretty much are on all the time.
You can enable dimming for power savings mode. Additionally, you can test different levels of dimming in the test menu. But, other than that the GI stays on.
Quoted from SPARKY70:Thanks lamprey. Do yours dim during test mode?
If I'm looking at the correct setting my doesn't dim in test mode. However, that may be due to the fact that I have all LEDs in my GI. Because I've got all LEDs I suspect that I'd need the LED GI OCD in order to get the GI to dim. But, my understanding is that the GI doesn't dim during game play so I just have the LED OC for the regular lamps.
Quoted from SilverballNut:So just a quick FYI. I was getting really annoyed with airballs from the two targets on either side of the left ramp. A while back, I had put a black rubber for a post on the metal bracket behind the target on my RZ to settle down airballs, so I decided to try that on my Shadow.
Amazing. The airballs just went away. The ball will kick back really fast from those targets still, but at least it's not jumping over the slingshot and into the outlane.
I don't have a pic, but essentially just remove the foam and push a black rubber for a post onto the bracket, then cut off the top part. This gives a nice firm rubber so the target doesn't bend back as much and launch the balls.
Do you (or anyone) happen to have a picture of how this was done. I think I have a mental picture, but wanted to verify as I think I might try this too.
Quoted from Tizz007:Does anyone have an extra Shadow lane diverter bracket for sale? I know people have tried to weld them, but looking to see if anyone has an extra they would be willing to sell to a super desperate, out of service pinballer ☺️. Please email me or reply, I would be forever in your debt!
#theshadow
Pinball
[email protected]
704-519-5404
Thank you!
Which bracket are you talking about? I'm guessing the one that holds the coils? Like this:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=DIV&Product_Code=PPS-A-18956-2
Assuming that is the part, do you need the left or right one?
Pinball Parts has this one (they have it label as the right one, but I think it is the left one):
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/a-18956-1.html
I don't know anything about this company but, they have this one as a set:
https://coinoppartsetc.com/product/parts-sale-pinball-machine-parts/shadow-pinball-machine-game-diverter-mech-assembly-18954
Quoted from xsonics2k2:I am dialing in my Shadow and noticed that the Battlefield optos are intermittently firing when the glass is on. I had this issue on the last Shadow I owned and my fix was to cut down a black drinking straw and fit it over the optos. Since I ran into the same situation on my current Shadow, I found this article and felt I needed to post it here for future reference. I apologize if this has already been covered in the 85 pages of this Shadow Club, I didn't feel like searching through everything.
From This Old Pinball - Repairing Williams/Bally WPC Pinball Games from 1990 to 1999, Part Three
Problem: Shadow Battlefield Optical Sensors work intermittently. The battlefield would sense a ball on the sides of the battlefield, but not when the ball was in the center of the battlefield. Interestingly, the problem went away when the playfield glass was removed.
Answer: The ball is "seen" by optics on the battlefield. The beam of light provided by the optic transmitter is too wide/conical. So wide, the light was reflecting off the playfield glass and back to the optic receiver (that's why removing the playfield glass solved the problem). The solution to this is to put a piece of 3/8" long black heat-shrink tubing (without shrinking it) over the optic transmitter (and maybe the receiver too, if needed) to shield the light beam into a tighter pattern.
Thanks for posting this.
I've had some odd intermittent behavior with my battle field and could never figure it out. I'm hoping that this is the issue and that some simple tubing will fix it!
Quoted from Lmjdad:This just happened... Does anyone have an extra one for sale? I’m aware of the gold repros which are too gold for me..
I have some extra plastics to trade or can buy outright.
Thank you
All the repros I've seen don't have the "wash" (dark paint in the cracks). If you wanted to buy a repro set and then just apply your own black wash to them, they should look pretty close to the originals.
Just checking to see if anyone has the Dynamite The Art of the Shadow book they'd be willing to sell (or know where to buy one)?
https://www.dynamite.com/htmlfiles/viewProduct.html?PRO=C1524100404
Cheers!
Not to take anything away from Art's wooden grips, but if you wanted Pearl ones, you could try contacting Dave at Tombstone gun grips (https://www.tombstonegrips.com/). I ordered some "blank" (no holes) ones and finished them up myself. I didn't ask, but if you send in a tracing or possibly the original Shadow grips he may be willing to do all the work..? Probably not the cheapest option, but as Art mentioned, easier than trying to grind your own down from a block.
Quoted from Demoman1:I need a Manual for The Shadow, can someone help me with where to purchase one or would someone make me a copy. I would gladly pay for it and shipping. Lost without it as a guide and reference for parts....HELP! Please.
Thanks, Brad bradtuttle497 at yahoo.com
Here is a link to the PDF version:
https://www.ipdb.org/files/2528/Manual_Bally_1994_The_Shadow.pdf
Do you really need a hard copy? If so you can print your own (from the pdf) or ebay has a couple..
Yeah, avoid kits. I also like warm white bullet lights for all the GI lights. I'll admit I color matched my inserts but, if I was to do it again, I wouldn't bother. Just get a pack of natural white for inserts and you you'll be good to go. This is all personal preference and I see the why people do it but, I'd suggest not trying to add colored bulbs all over the place. I suggest sticking with warm white to show off the artwork as intended.
Also see:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/no-rainbow-puke-club-post-pics-of-worst-color-gi-fails
Quoted from Squeakman:I encountered a problem tonight with my upper playfield paddle. It stopped kicking the ball forward. I checked the switches and everything is ok except when I go into solenoid T.4 15 Mini Kicker it is not pulsing. Is this the paddle kick? I'm assuming either a wire came loose from the coil or the coil is bad? I just wanted some opinions before i tear the playfield off and try to diagnose.
It's possible that the coil "froze." So, you can check that the sleeve is still sliding in the coil like it should. Since that mechanism moves around the wires that go to that coil are susceptible to breaking. I had an intermittent issue with that coil and it turned out the wire are broken about in inch or so away from the coil, but the wire sheathing was still in tacked. So, I ran new wires to the coil and problem solved.
Quoted from PinballNewb:Just finished a game where I was 2 shots away from completing Final Battle. The mode start scoop and the right orbit. Easy shots and I failed. Arrrrgh!!!
Brutal!
I need to get back into form on my Shadow so I can try to make a run at the Final Battle.
Quoted from Nds777:I installed the Bent Plastic reflection blocker on my shadow this weekend and it had a huge impact on seeing the back part of the playfield.
With all the talk of how dark this game is, especially at the battlefield, I’m surprised no one else has mentioned them.
They've been mentioned plenty. I think they are ugly. A fair number of people use a polarizing filter instead. It works very well in conjunction with a ColorDMD.
Quoted from Scoot:Going off the deep end with my new winter project...
[quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome!
I'm very tempted to buy a replacement myself........
Quoted from gjm7777:Baldwin is best.
#EmbraceTheBaldwin
I disagree. But, you did make me chuckle, so thanks for that!
Quoted from ramegoom:Factory defect with this ramp, and I'm sure some of you have seen breakage. It'd break at the welds on the right side due to excess shock.
So I re-designed the ramp guard to accommodate all four screws. No problem ever since then. Here's the original ramp guard:
[quoted image]
Adding the new piece solved the breakage problem:
[quoted image]
New design:
[quoted image]
Very cool. Any chance you'd make them available to buy?
Quoted from Coz:I got the left side done with no issues. I replaced the plastics and leds and put it all back together. Hopefully I can find something to get the tiny set screw out and find a replacement. Any advice is appreciated.
If you don't already, get a set of hex allen head bits that are impact ready and hammer drill/rotary hammer. I use this combo when I'm taking apart a game I'm restoring as the set screws are almost always rusted or torqued way too much. When re-assembling, just do it by hand so they aren't over torqued.
As mbaumle mentoned, you may have to try to hammer a bit in there. Alternatively, there are screw/blot extractor tools for stripped bolts. Here is one (normal sized):
https://www.amazon.com/Alden-8440P-Grabit-Damaged-Extractor/dp/B001A4CWHO/
And here is a "micro" one that might work for such a small screw:
https://www.amazon.com/Alden-4507P-Grabit-Broken-Extractor/dp/B000Q60UOO
Good luck!
Quoted from tiltmonster:3. While testing my Sanctum repair job and the magnet this piece fell off and I cannot locate where it goes, it's shown on page 2.28 in the manual #20 (not labeled on diagram) part # 01-13590 coil wire guard. Anyone have a picture of where it goes?[quoted image][quoted image]
Here is a quick pic:
bracket (resized).jpgQuoted from hawk370:I'm sure someone here has custom plated their shooter gun. Can you post Pics?
I'm getting a plated one and I am debating between black nickel and chrome at the moment. I like the look of both, does one offer an advantage?
I think they both look good. But, I wanted to keep the chrome look as well as what I think the gun used in the movies was like, so kept it chrome.
Quoted from Scoot:Is that a custom pearl handle? Looks fantastic!
Thanks! Yes it is.
Here is more info if you like:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-refresh#post-3809177
Quoted from allsportdvd:Does anyone have a lead on where to get a new left ramp?
Quoted from msj2222:is there a post in this thread for a map on how to led Aurichs alt translight. I dont feel like experimenting right now. thanks!
Put any white LED's you want. My preference is natural white frosted. For added flair you get a slow blinking bulb behind the street light. Avoid color bombing.
Quoted from yellowghost:Put a LED inside.[quoted image]
That's more or less what I did. To help diffuse the light a bit, I put a couple of layers of wax paper in there, YMMV.
Quoted from yellowghost:My ramps were tarnished. Powdered coated in "prismatic transparent gold" hope they look good in the flesh[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Out of curiosity, why did you go powder coat instead of brass plating?
Please post pics of the ramps when they are done. Would like to see how they look!
Quoted from yellowghost:Help needed.
I forgot that each set of rings has one three pin connector and one two pin connector. I put both two pin connectors on the left and both three pin connectors on the right. Anybody reckon which rings on either side get the three hole connectors?
The easiest way is to just go into the settings and turn on each light, then you'll know.
Quoted from RockBass14:I have another common spot where the ball is getting stuck. When the ball drops from the battlefield onto the wire form below it, it seems to get stuck there pretty often. So, I can try to adjust the wire back, which I don’t know I have enough room to make it work. Or, I was wondering if there’s a larger plastic piece I could replace the existing one with to make sure it drops closer to the edge of the wire. Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]
I think your plastic might be backwards, it should be closer to the wireform.
Here is a post that I started a while back and got some feedback from other users:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/66#post-3445187
I sent my parts in for plating and didn't get back all of the exact ones I sent in (some from other machines) and that wireform/habitrail I got back had a bit of a bend right where your ball is getting stuck. I was hesitant to bend it to much for fear of messing up the plating, but a gentle correction helped on my machine.
Quoted from gunstarhero:My Shadow has some color matched bulbs behind the translite. I’m getting set to swap in an Aurich translite and was wondering if anyone can show how they arranged the bulbs behind their Aurich translite if they do too?
I'd suggest not color bombing it. Keep it simple, use Sunlight or Natural white bulbs.
I put the a slow blinking one behind the street light, but other than that all natural white.
Quoted from okgrak:My guess would be a cold solder joint on one of the connectors.
Could be, but those ribbon cables are notorious for causing issues. If the display craps out again, I'd buy a new ribbon cable. Heck, I'd buy one now, just to eliminate a potential issue.
Can anyone post a picture of the upper flipper coil and it's wiring?
I had an the upper coil seize up a while back. I replaced it, but it hasn't seemed right ever since. Though I'd double check my wiring first and then work from there.
Thanks!
Quoted from PinballCoug:Hope this helps...
[quoted image]
Perfect. Much appreciated!
Quoted from attack7777:Does anyone know if replacement plastic phurbas (for the top of the diverters) are available anywhere? I checked the usual suspects but they seem sold out (not surprising, but I thought I'd check )
I found some here, but I know nothing about the company.
https://www.pinballinc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=179
Quoted from isJ:I know this has been posted before countless times but I can't for the life of me find it!
Anyone have a link to the recommended switch to eliminate ball hang up on the left ramp (when diverted to the right)? Thanks!
I believe this is the one:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-SMSB
Quoted from jonesjb:I am, there is an even longer one.
Longer than the 4" one? have a link?
Quoted from mrgregb123:I had seen this before. Way overpriced. The price is almost the same as what the wireforms cost new.
Their pricing is rather high, but the results are awesome.
I wouldn't even think of powder coating the wire forms on this game as I haven't seen any that look good. The brass is where it is at!
Quoted from zezami:Does anyone have a 3D model of the phurba dagger? I'm missing one and can't seem to find it for sale anywhere so I guess 3d printing is the only option for now.
I don't know of a 3D model, but if you want to buy one you might try one of these places:
https://www.pinballinc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=179
https://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/Shadow_Page.html
I get why people are anti "pin stadium." Most people have the brightness cranked up and UV shit flashing all over. Fully understood.
I did my own version of "stadium" lighting for a couple reasons:
1. I love all the brass on The Shadow and wanted to high light it a bit.
2. The game is really dark stock.
3. I very much dislike, for the most part, the way spotlights stick out and block artwork and other parts of the game. (yes I still have one).
I also, did something a little different in that I used LED "neon" to avoid the "striping" affect that people also seem to dislike.
I'm willing to admit it's not for everyone, but I think it helps the game play better and show off the art deco-ness of the game without burning out your retinas.
Sorry for the glass on pic, but I'm lazy..
ShadowLedNeon (resized).JPG
Quoted from Tranquilize:I can't stand pinstadiums. Pinball games are supposed to have contrast in lighting. The reason you like the stadium light effect is that it overpowers glare. If you can't see the ball, get some Roman glass. Far better investment. Best addition to any pin, hands down. I've had people try to reach into my machines because it works so well.
That is 100% false. It's not about glare.
I agree that "invisi" glass is awesome. But, that doesn't solve anything if there isn't enough light to begin with.
Quoted from radial_head:Well, I keep finding new things/oddities about my Shadow. First, red boards all over. Second, a bunch of mechanical differences with the sanctum targets. Then, this: my the steel guides have a different cutout than most guides I've seen on every other production Shadow out there... Seems like my game was still undergoing some tweaking when it went out on test/sample/early production/late proto???
Every other Shadow I've seen has the opto holes cut all the way down to the bottom of the guide (making the magnet adjustment actually do something). Right now if I adjust my magnet to be stronger, it puts the optos out of alignment of these holes.
Talk about a mystery.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from RobDutch:When I had the problem I shut off the game and powered it on again: same issue.
If the issues occur again, I will measure the test points and try pressing the socketed chips.
Thanks!
Mine started doing strange things the other day, including resetting while playing. I pulled every connector and cleaned the socket and connector with Deoxit d5 and I haven’t had any problems since. I also had a similar issue on my Monopoly and did the same thing (cleaned connectors) as well as reflowed the solder on all the headers on the power driver board and cpu/sound board. So, you might try cleaning first and if that doesn’t work you might try reflowing solder..
Quoted from ruzeo:I got Kahr daughterboards in all my games because I had one game with reset issues and said never again.
I did look at those. However, in my case, I don’t think that would have helped as the 5 volt was good. But, still might be worth getting just for peace of mind.
Quoted from Biju:A quick question: I was watching a video and it looked like they were able to shoot the left orbit, hold up the right upper flipper, and have it land into the Khan saucer. Can everyone do that? Mine falls way short of being able to do that so I'm wondering if my pitch is set incorrectly at 6.5°.
I'm obsessed with this game! After a slew of really terrible games I put up a great game and made it to the Final Battle! Unfortunately, I came 4 shots short of winning but I was able to put up my best score so far at 1.4B.
I don’t know the real answer to your question. I’ve read that the designer wanted it to work that way and I think you can adjust your flipper so that it will bounce right into the saucer. Mine doesn’t and I don’t know that I want it to. But, it might be fun to try with it setup like that and see how much easier it makes the game..
Quoted from crazypinballguy:I like the pearl look also .. have it on my Shadow.
[quoted image]
I think they mean white peal, not the gray that is stock.
30B047F8-ED4F-4CF4-A03B-91BCED4A170D (resized).jpegQuoted from radial_head:What's with the hate for the original translite? I don't get it.
Only art package I've seen that looks like it fits the game...
I think it's because the playfield art is more like the comic/radio show whereas the translight is from the movie. So, they kind of clash in style. Aurich's translight matches the playfield art more so it looks more like it belongs as a cohesive art package.
Quoted from data_eastside:On a related note, are the Luppin Rules considered the gold standard for Shadow rules by most players? What do you do for the rules he doesn't mention like regular ball save, outlane width, etc?
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Renton, WA