Quoted from rcbrown316:Look at my Avatar and repeat after me "must not buy..." lol.
You know you want it!
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Quoted from rcbrown316:Look at my Avatar and repeat after me "must not buy..." lol.
You know you want it!
Quoted from tachi:Do I have lights out all over the place?
Maybe, or you may have other issues. Read the manual and use test functions. You can have the machine turn all the lamps on at once. Then you can look for burn bulbs.
Quoted from arkuz:That just screws up the motor's calibration at the start of a game. Might there be a way to do this without a software patch?
I think you would need the optos flip from left to right along with reversing the motor leads.
Quoted from d0n:A video of the spotlite mod
Is this an LED? I didn't think an LED would dim unless there is a OCD board.
Quoted from PinballNewb:Is it normal that the back targets on the battlefield don't always drop each time they are hit
No, its gummed up and needs to be cleaned.
Quoted from d0n:My battlefield targets are acting up too
One or more of the opto switches for the targets is not working. Do a switch test on them.
Quoted from d0n:I think they go down and back up so fast that it seems they dont go down at all.
If there cleaned and waxed.
Quoted from fosaisu:Is there a way to increase the overall range of motion of the upper flipper, so that it will rest flush yet extend sufficiently to feed the Kahn hole when it's help up
Yes, remove material from the end of plunger and rechamfer the edge.
Quoted from someoneelse:Now someone is even suggesting to physically alter/damage the machine
So when you put purple super bands on your machine, your cheating and damaging your pin. So he asked a question and I told him how to do it. Its his pin and if he wants to change it, so be it.
Quoted from fosaisu:how about replacing the coil stop with one of a different length?
Yes this will work, but which one? More travel= shorter coil stop. Somewhere there is a post showing all the different stop lengths for the different years.
Quoted from RTS:Your lit battlefield is nice, but when is someone gonna figure out how to only light the upper playfield when it is active?
A mod like that would probably sell to almost everyone who owns a Shadow.
How many people are interested in this? Are you willing to build your own boards? Or does it have to be plug and play?
Quoted from lpeters82:Do you happen to know if this would work?
Quoted from lpeters82:
I don't really know much about electronics but when the battlefield motor is activated could you tap into the 20v, run it through a 7805 resistor, and have that power a 5v lamp?
No because the (20volts) 12volts positive and negative voltage are reversed back and forth on the same pair of wires going to the motor. But there are other ways.
Quoted from zaza:What about when the signal is taken for the motordrive, in this example 'motor-right', let that activate a timer for about 3 sec. ?!
I was thinking the same but with an opto isolator in between for just what if.
Quoted from Lamprey:I haven't spent much time looking into a solution, so curious what you have in mind!
This is what I'm going to do, build a board that can be connected in between J-1 and the motor control board A-16120 with a Z connector. The board will get its 12 volt power and ground and the TIP signal to activate all from J-1. I was going to have an opto isolator input and a adjustable delay relay output. This way any lighting voltage can be used such as 6.3 ac GI or 12volt dc. I was thinking of installing Comet matrix cables to the relay input and output so that it would be a plug and play setup for any type of lighting that anyone wanted to use. If there are any other ideas that need to be added let me know.
Quoted from RTS:Your lit battlefield is nice, but when is someone gonna figure out how to only light the upper playfield when it is active?
A mod like that would probably sell to almost everyone who owns a Shadow
Just to let everyone know I'm done with the prototype and am ready to order parts and get circuit boards screened.
I have a few questions for the group, how long of a delay on should there be? Right now I have it at 4 seconds. Also on the prototype I used a double throw relay and a second light wire so I can have one set of leds on all the time and when the relay activates the second set of leds turn on and first set turns off. My first set are dim UV bulbs for the mood and the second set turns on brighter white leds for better viewing. This adds to the cost @ 1.50 so what do you think? Lastly does it matter if this turns on with the left or right flipper button?
Quoted from Cheeks:Could the VUK be the trigger to turn on the lights instead of a flipper?
The lights get triggered from the the paddle moving back and forth when you press the flipper button. The delay is for when you don't move the paddle for a period of time but still need the lights activated.
Quoted from Cheeks:Four seconds might be a little long on the delay
This is why I thought I would ask. I got you down for two seconds.
I also need to get an idea of how many I need to build so I can order parts. The more kits the better the discount on the parts will be which translates in a lower cost for everyone.
Quoted from TimeBandit:I find the price break on DigiKey at 50 lots
I'll be lucky if there are 25 commitments, but 50 would sure reduce some cost.
Quoted from TimeBandit:And if you don't, I will.
Sounds like you want to be a partner, maybe be the money front man.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:Why not incorporate a small pot instead of a fixed resister
Everything is going to be SMT to keep the size to a minimum. I also think we will come up with a number that everyone will like. Most likely 3 seconds.
Quoted from PunkPin:what is the target price range for the completed mod?
Depends on how many people are interested, 18 so far. I will see were its at after the weekend and do some figuring. Some of you are from over seas and I have never dealt with that before so I sure there will have to be an additional shipping charge on top of the normal rates.
Were at 22 people in, I was hoping for 25. Maybe I will order enough for 25 anyway and hope they sell so I don't have to eat hamburger helper for the next 6 months.
Quoted from Bwilson:Just curious what it looks like and how it functions. Thanks!
Right now its a bread board with with some chips and caps and some resistors and a mess of wires sitting on the bottom of my cabinet. Nothing really worth shooting video of. But here's how it will work. There will three Comet matrix wires coming off of one side of the relay. One of these wires is for power input for the leds that you will supply for the battlefield. If you use 6.3 volt leds then you would hook this power wire to a GI socket. If you use 12 volt leds then this power wire need to be connected to a 12 volt power source. The other 2 matrix wires are for the leds bulbs that you are going to use. One of these wires will be on any time the GI is on to add some extra brightness to the battlefield but does not have to be used if you chose not to. The last matrix wire will be activated for 3 seconds each time the battlefield paddle moves to the left. When this activates the other wire that's on with the GI will turn off. There is one more wire coming off the other side of the relay and this is for connecting this mod to the motor control board. It will have a Z connector and IDC connector for a plug and play hook up.
Well I checked a bunch of suppliers for the best part prices and lowest shipping cost. The battlefield lighting mod (leds not included) is going to run $48.00 + $4.00 US for shipping in the lower 48 states. Let me know (PM me) if your still interested as I will start ordering parts on Monday.
Quoted from RTS:Do you have video of a working prototype?
No, videos are very time consuming to post. Since I will be making a video of the install and operation, I was waiting for the actual parts to make an assembled unit for the video. That way you will see what your getting.
Quoted from Cheeks:What are you hoping is the timeframe for having these available to sell?
I will order parts on Monday, I'm not sure how long the pc boards will take to manufacture. I hope to ship the first ones in four weeks. Just remember this is not my job, just a hobby for me. I don't want two jobs either.
(zoom)
Insulator - terminal strip
#01-12299
.03 inch thick fish paper insulator for terminal strips.
Reference:
•01-12299
(zoom)
THE SHADOW (Bally) guard, coil
#01-13590
Bally THE SHADOW pinball machine coil guard.
Reference:
•01-13590
These are the parts you need to cover the coil from Marco Spec.
I got the last of the parts I needed to start making the Battle Field Light Mod. I built my board today and it works perfectly. I will build these to order, you can have a 2,3,4 second delay. Also with or without the extra GI lighting cable. I will take some pics of the installation, but its so simple a child can do it. If you have trouble don't call me get a child to help you.
Yes it is 2 second delay, I had to give it a try because some of you asked for it. I still think more time is needed like 4 seconds for my taste. You can have what you like as I have resistors for 2, 3 and 4 seconds.
Quoted from RTS:It works. So how/when can we order?
You can order now, I was going to take so installation pics tomorrow to avoid 20 of the same questions. One kit is on its way to Washington already.
Quoted from cavalier88z24:can we order one through you now? i sent u a request earlier last month
Yes you can. Have patience with me as I'm old and suffer from stupidity.
I just wanted everyone to know what there getting for $$ first.
Also you will get a six month warranty from the shipping date, just return it unmolested as you got and I will fix it or replace it as needed.
Any Comet pinball Matrix items can be use with this relay board. Remember thou if you connect to the GI then use 6.3 led bulbs and strips. If you want to run 12 volt leds and strips then I think you should install a separate power supply connected to the service outlet. If you need help with how to run 12 volt items then just PM me.
Quoted from ryandimx:Where did you mount the light strip?
I tried mounting the light strip to, above, over and over while in front of the metal strip in the back. Always the same results for me, it reflected off the battle field and in my eyes. No bueno!
I am going to try it again but I need to find a light diffuser sheet first. I think this would be the best way to do it, but I just need to find the right stuff to make it work.
Quoted from someoneelse:Great mod, very cool!
Have you though about adding an adjustable pot so it is possible to set the time for different pinball uses? I'm thinking this could also work well with e.g. lighting up the Army of the Dead on LotR.
Thanks, I designed this for the one purpose only. I'm sure it could be used for many things but small changes would be necessary. If you want something for your pin just let me know and I could see if it would work.
Quoted from lpeters82:Have you tried the dimmer switch from Comet?
No, but this is why I used the Matrix products. There are so many different things to choose from. We will be able to try stuff quickly and then try something else until we like it. I'm thinking I should have worked a deal with Comet first.
Quoted from Lamprey:Grumpy,
Would it be cheaper, easier, mostly cheaper to make a version that has no delay (and is 6volt only)? The reason I ask is that I was thinking about something very similar for the eject holes. Basically, the are lit by one led (color 1) normally via the GI and when the arrow in front of the eject is lit the hole switches to use by another led (color 2).
Just spit balling a color changing eject light mod.
Very interesting idea, I will have to give this some more thought.
Quoted from jonesjb:I'll investigate.
Great, I'm a little busy right now. Let everyone know how it works.
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Thanks for using my Matrix products!
I think they are prefect for something like this.
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Lmk best way to order....pm???
I sent you a PM, thanks.
Quoted from RCA1:What a nice guy, he doesn't seem Grumpy at all!
Your going to ruin my reputation.
Quoted from per3per3:Can someone explain the the lock process...
1. magnet stops ball.
2. magnet releases ball.
3. ball rolls away from magnet.
4. magnet turns back on and pulls ball back up to the magnet and then turns off allowing the ball to roll past the magnet into the lock.
Your setup is never going to work good because the ball needs to roll on a smooth surface. The magnet core is magnetized and should have a wood separation so the ball doesn't stick to the core. You will need to repair the hole and then fix the surface so its smooth as glass. When yours works its just luck and will never be 100%.
Quoted from per3per3:you believe that the issue isn't the wall switch or the optos
Optos turn on magnet. Wall switch tells the CPU to continue with the sequence of operation, which is all done by timing not the optos. This is why if you have dents in the surface or P/F incline not set properly it will drop the ball.
Quoted from per3per3:Has anyone considered using a wood dowel instead of something like JB Qwikweld?
Most damage is not as extensive as yours so most use a filler, but a hardwood dowel is a good way to repair this. Glue it in with a epoxy adhesive and sand smooth. Paint to match or use the premade sticker.
Quoted from per3per3:Would it be possible to use a stern magnet? (i.e. one designed to sit flush)
Why would you not use the correct parts.
Quoted from per3per3:I meant if I didn't choose to repair it correctly
I wouldn't, your resale value depends on it.
Quoted from Cserold:At one point the whole battlefield assy fell into the back box.
Was it still attached by the hinge and just fell back into place hard or did it fall and land on something other than the mounting hardware?
Quoted from Cserold:It fell all the way to bottom of cab. I had it diconnected from hinges
Were the wires connected at that time? Do you what side it landed on?
Quoted from per3per3:I replaced the switch earlier tonight and same damn thing????
Is there a pink quick disconnect connector on the switch? If so then cut it off and solder the wire on.
Quoted from per3per3:should the flipper button press also activate the flippers?
Yes.
Quoted from per3per3:I then flipped the playfield up and the switch registers perfectly in that position
Is this still happening with the new switch? Maybe the wire harness is pulling something loose when you lower the p/f.
Quoted from per3per3:new solder joints are solid on the new switch
I would look at the connectors on the cpu. Also a wire can be broken but the insulation still be intact causing an intermittent connection.
Quoted from ryandimx:Now I'm getting a bunch of error messages.
Start by checking the leds on the PDB to make sure all are lit. Your first error mess. is saying you have no 12 volts.
Quoted from ryandimx:when I plugged them back in everything fired right up. Not sure why.
Maybe a cracked header pin on the board.
Did your spot light reflector fall off and work its way into the ball trough? Crazy how crap like that happens.
Quoted from Cursed:Is there a video of the 'grumpy' mod? There does not seem to be a thread for it and I am not 100% sure on what it does?
I originally thought it was going to kill all the lighting on the game except for the battlefield when it is in use but I don't think that's right?
Appreciate any help. Cheers.
Post#3574.
Quoted from tiesmasc:1) Crank Arm Assembly Set Screw Ring Loose - How to Fix?
I would braze the ring to the crank.
Quoted from robotron:wit extra gi led strip under upper playfield. i put 2 lights on the upper playfield wit blue leds.
Looks very nice indeed.
Quoted from Flippermatt:I have a problem.... The four ring lamps died all of the sudden.
Look for a broken Yellow/grey wire just before the rings.
Quoted from Flippermatt:I do not have a manual
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2528/Manual_Bally_1994_The_Shadow.pdf
Put a lot of paper in your printer.
Quoted from practicalsteve:It doesn't register 100% of the time. I have replaced the switch itself, adjusted numerous times.
Cut the pink quick connector off and solder wire directly to the switch.
Quoted from Goalie:all the settings get switched to Factory
Most likely a bad battery holder.
Quoted from Goalie:Then it says pinball missing, I shake the machine, or I poke at the trough from under the PF and then it finds the ball (This could just be a separate issue)
There are divots in your trough or the balls are magnetized.
Quoted from Goalie:Then when I play the game the Sanctum drop target goes down but never comes back up.
You need to check the switches for the drop target.
Quoted from delt31:thanks will def look into it.
Check out my light mod. Post #3572.
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Anyone have the issue where there drop targets on their upper playfield go down and they don't keep trying stay up like normal?
Did you clean and polish the mount and targets? How are the springs?
Quoted from Robertstone0407:It looks like one of the springs is weak. I cleaned and when i push on one it stays up. Where can i find the springs
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-433
I used car wax on all the metal and moving parts to make it lighting fast.
Quoted from mbaumle:I'd like to convert it back to the small thin bulbs.
Solder wires directly to the led bulb and heat shrink, a dab of hot glue to hold in place and forget about it.
Quoted from Parzival:So what would typically cause a weak throw back action?
Having a second coil wired in series with the magnet will double the resistance causing for a weak magnet. Since someone wired it in series you will need to remove said coil and rewire the magnet coil back correctly.
Quoted from jonesjb:The coil is part of the super LE version of the Shadow.
No the LM version! Low magnetism.
Quoted from Parzival:Magnet has been successfully rewired and the "throw back" is strong now. Thanks to all the helped identify this issue. Coil certainly seemed strange, but assumed it was correct until helpful comments in this thread.
Glad to hear it's working correctly now. You should post the original pic in the worst hack topic.
Quoted from Nds777:What circumstance would make that happen?
For ball search when a ball gets trapped behind the target.
Quoted from pinballjah:Has anyone experienced some of the buttons not working on start up? The credit button doesn’t work (game won’t start), no sound from gun trigger. After a few minutes it starts up fine. Any suggestions? Thanks.
CPU corrosion run down to the switch matrix connectors.
Quoted from pinballjah:Thanks for the assistance!
Can you take a close up pic of the bottom half of the board just to the right of the batteries with the display panel removed.
Quoted from Scoot:I put the diode exactly in the same position.
That doesn't mean its correct.
Quoted from Scoot:there is no guarantee that placing the wires and diode in the same spot will be correct?
Follow this pic and you will always be correct.pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from RockBass14:Are there lower profile spotlight shades out there?
Not that I know, why not trim 1/4 off the bottom for ball clearance.
Quoted from Djshakes:Yes, says mini playfield is fine. I think they mini pf test only checks movement of armeture. All good there. Checked flipper coil diodes and for the life of me can't get that opto switch to trigger in test mode unless broken. I notice this board under playfield triggers the switch if I unplug one of the three connectors but if all plugged in and jiggling wires, nothing, which is good. No loose connections. I'm at a serious loss here and sort of bummed.
I literally changed flipper opto board out of desperation. In addition I removed the playfield optos and connected with a straw so nothing could break beam, flippers still fire plunger randomly. Checked all connections in back box. Put game in single switch test in switch 36 so it will beep if triggered. Fucked around with everything above and below playfield and in back box to try to trigger switch. Nothing. Wtf. Are you sure the plunger shouldn't fire randomly? I'm obsessive about game playing correctly and this drives me nuts. Half tempted to sell game and I just got it. Fuck this Pos. So pissed.[quoted image]
Since it's broken I will give you 1500.00 dollars for it.
Does it only act up with the glass on?
If the loud snap noise is when the game starts, that's normal. You are also having a reset issue, I would follow the steps in Pinwiki on this problem.
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:how about posting a followup of what the damn problem was and how it got resolved?
Loose connector from the move would be my guess.
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:Was guessing loose connector also or a cracked solder joint from a bumpy ride home.
If it was moved on the roads in my area it would have a split cabinet.
Quoted from okgrak:Has anyone been able to illuminate the battlefield only when active? Right now I have a led strip tied to GI, but thinking it would be cool to only have it illuminate when the ball is up there.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/72#post-3623572
Quoted from shiffdog:anyone know where it goes?
This is the nut that the play field slides on. It screws onto the carriage bolt that is going thru the side of the cabinet.
Quoted from pinballjah:Thanks, it is a Fiipper Fidelity speaker
I don't think this speaker has the same impedance as the original speaker. This can cause the power amp to blow on the sound board from excessive current draw.
Quoted from pinballjah:But I think this is a Flipper Fidelity speaker that was made for the original soundboard (not the Pinsound version). I can take a photo if that is helpful. Thanks as usual.
Yes if you can get a pic of the speaker label.
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:Does anybody know where I can find part 02-5041-15G Fastener butthead?
We have always called these types of fasteners female sex bolts.
Quoted from grandy:I have been looking too. When i bought my shadow it only had a single set. I've tried a lot of different possible replacements but not found anything right. Would be very interested in a good source!
McMaster Carr.
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:Any idea what size it is? There seems to be a ton of options. Thank you!!!
I'm stuck at work till midnight. I can remove one later and get you some measurements.
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:Any idea what size it is?
These have a security torks bit holding then together. I will have to find my set in the garage later today to remove them and measure.
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:Any idea what size it is? There seems to be a ton of options. Thank you!!!
Quoted from MG7322:Anyone have a suggestion as to where this goes?
Battle field kicker.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Who sells the what now? Do you have a link?
Go back to post #3357 and you will see what RCA1 is talking about.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Oh ya, nice. Id be in.
Quoted from tiltmonster:Genius, very nice mod... interested.
I can still make these if you like one. PM me if you do.
Quoted from gjm7777:Here is my flipper orientation.
You can also slightly bend the bracket that the flipper paw rest against to have the bat rest against the side more. This won't affect the up travel of the flipper.
Quoted from mrgregb123:Is this normal? Are yours fast to drop or is this just the design?
Put car wax on the metal parts.
Quoted from mrgregb123:is this how the Battlefield kicker should look? It's metal on metal
Yep! I put one drop of LPS on mine. Nice and smooth, no noise.
Quoted from mrgregb123:the one with the black bumpers on each end - one side was broken off, causing the hammer to sometimes come off track and not move. I don't know if you can buy this part
There called well nuts. Home Depot has them.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from SNES:Is it normal for this connector to be plugged into J138? Seems odd to me, but I also figure a lot of other things wouldn’t be working if it was plugged into the wrong spot?
137 and 138 do the same exact thing. If all 8 lamps are not working and the wire is not broken then you need to test the drive transistor. Test Q-93 on the power driver board, I think its a TIP107.
Quoted from SNES:I tested Q-93 and it’s good.
Take a voltage reading on the metal tab of Q-93 and then compare to the transistors on either side. Should be about 6.5 volts DC.
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:How are people liking an added spotlight on the battlefield? Is there a way to tap in nicely so that it would only turn on when you enter the battlefield? Thanks in advance.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/72#post-3623572
Quoted from Chitownpinball:I love mine too...what matrix light did you end up using and how does it look? Pics pics pics!!! please. I need to diffuse mine more, its a little too hot spotty where I have it, but I think a good diffusion film will do it.
Try 2 layers of white electric tape.
Quoted from FatPanda:Also, anyone know where I can get new nuts/bolts that hold the two sides of the gun together? Mine is missing a set.
Quoted from FatPanda:This is the proper size? Add 2 to cart and go?
I have not tried these as of yet, but they should fit. When I have my gun replated I was going to use these as mine are rusted badly.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Grumpy very seldom makes mistakes.
That's not what my wife says.
Quoted from FatPanda:I guess the verdict is still out there?
Every metal post always needs some kind of rubber sleeve or ring. Can't have the ball beating into a metal post.
Quoted from Buellxb12r:I have the buyin disabled,
The high scores were set when the buy-in was active. The high scores will need to be deleted first.
Quoted from Buellxb12r:I tried that, it still shows default factory high scores for buyin.
Do a factory reset or pull out one of the batteries.
Quoted from PhillyArcade:Voltage on the fuse on the driver board
There is a fuse for each flipper on the fliptronics board.
Quoted from pinballjj:I like it! What is a switch cover?
Quoted from pinballjj:what is the name of the black rubber pieces ( female threads) at the ends of the one shaft for the kicker ?
Well nuts.
Quoted from RobDutch:Right now the wall shoots up too far up and gets stuck, making the game unplayable
You need to know why there is too much movement. I would look at the plunger and coil stop. As these parts wear out the up movement increases. Also someone may have use an incorrect part, like a shorter plunger, this would beat the bottom of the target until it breaks. Remember the target is not the stop the coil stop is.
Quoted from beefzap:Is this mod still available?
I can still make one for you if you like.
Quoted from rvermeire:other ideas ?
This is the board you are looking for. Remove the board and look on the back side for cracked solder joints.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Jodannar:What have others used as substitutes?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/156#post-5980133
Quoted from Utesichiban:Thanks for the feedback guys. These are the correct ones, right? Six total for Shadow?
https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/flasher-domes/purple-flasher-dome-with-tabs-03-8149-18/
Yep and yep.
Quoted from jonesjb:So I updated the fuse, turned the pin on, it turned on for a second and it immediately blew again. Hmmm, back to the drawing board on what could be causing the main fuse to blow.
Quoted from Gorgar666:Shadow just took a Dump, F116 low 12v pin(7v) but the 5v pin is good.
Both of you should check BR-5 on the PDB board.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Any suggestions?
Start by checking the 4 voltages for the plasma display.
Quoted from TheBeefSupreme:Rejoined the club today! Game feels great but I’m having the odd issue of it being too powerful. The flippers are too strong and leads to a ton of air balls or has the ball flying off the ramps. My plunge is actually too strong too and hits the glass almost every time. I cranked the pitch up to see if it would help but I’m essentially all the way up in the back and all the way down in the front and still having that issue.
Is there a way to turn the flipper strength down?
Check to see if it's been high-tapped.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Gunsmithing-Removing-Automotive-Jewelry/dp/B07JNS1ZF7&ved=2ahUKEwikmqiAosz5AhUcl4kEHSnAD6oQFnoECAQQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0zOMAzQPoGwx9EWcZ5FR99
These have a small round tip that fits inside of the roll pin to keep it centered.
Quoted from jonesjb:This link doesn't quite work, would you mind resharing?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Roll-Pin-Punch-Set-9-Piece-61135/206515512
Try this one.
Quoted from Manny65:This was the link (just needed some editing to get it working) amazon.com link »
Thanks, I need all the help I can get cause I'm old and stupid.
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:So you would rip off the battery holders and solder remote holders with the game on eh?
I have removed the cpu board and clipped on a remote battery, then removed the factory battery holder. Soldered in a new battery holder, installed new batteries and removed the remote battery. Reinstalled the cpu with all my high scores and old settings.
Quoted from billsfanmd:What can I do to bling my gun handle? Black powder coat? Also on left side bolts heads stick out snd catch your finger. Normal? Looks like I have wrong screws. Where can I get correct security screw and nut?
If so done has a spare gun handle that’s already done Lmk. Thx
[quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from Nintegageo:Do you think this is a wiring problem or board issue?
Could be either, but I would look for a broken yellow/red wire first.
Quoted from Nintegageo:Also, the thin metal strip of one ramp is lifting. Should I just super glue the lip down
NO! You need to remove the ramp and either bend the metal slightly down or replace the metal with a new piece. Then reinstall the ramp.
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:Who needs pinstadiums? Lol not me.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I think if you were to cut the corners off, the boards would fit in the hoods better. Still great idea for getting extra lumens!
Playball!!
Quoted from Iamthelaw:Haven’t pulled board but thinking bridge rectifier?
This or cracked solder joints at the bridge.
Quoted from Squeakman:I can powder them myself for $20.
When can I send you mine?
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:That's not super helpful. Obviously I've done this. The ball occasionally works but 95% no,no matter where the switch is adjusted. It's as if a longer press does it....so, capacitor in anyone else's opinion?
Cut off the pink connector and solder the wire back on the switch.
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