Is one available?

I can stop bugging the local Pinsiders now that I got a Shadow. I put two spotlights on the playfield and one on the Battlefield. The cone that goes on the spotlight was too much of a distraction for me on the Battlefield, so after trying a bunch of colors I went with a flexible/bendie LED in red. My reasoning for using red is probably way over the top, but it's kinda to create a mood like in a stage production. Like if you were watching a performance of the Shadow in an old-time theater, they might cast red lighting to indicate a Battlefield scene.

I like how it really serves to cut off the Battlefield and draw attention to it as being completely separate and the fact that I don't notice the light source at all. Sure I lose the color of the art there, but the design is still visible and the orange inserts are still a bit of a contrast. I had a plain warm white light in the spot light but it just looked too plain--there wasn't much as far as interesting art to be featured up there. Not pictured is the Kenner Thunder cab topper.

20161211_162553 (resized).jpg

20161211_162541 (resized).jpg

20161211_162611 (resized).jpg

I don't have a green bendie. I tried some kind of extra bright green LED and it didn't look as appropriate for the art deco style. I think the green was too light compared to Shadow's green. Also, a normal bulb up there is kinda distracting. With the bendie, it lays flat so I barely notice it. I went through the entire thread over the past month and your LED layout is the kind of style I'm looking to get. My machine came with bright natural white LED's under the slings and near the flippers which brought out the blue and purple there, but like you've said in your posts, warm white is more common for an art deco style. For now, I only have incandescents available to have a warm white look in those areas.

Before doing this, I was looking for a thin, magnetic, motion-activated LED light strip. I found a few for $10 on Amazon that are about 5 inches wide and an inch deep that might've fit either at the front or to the right of the Battlefield, but it probably wouldn't have worked reliably enough.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N76B9WV/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2

Thoughts on that one?

It came that way. I don't know of anything special that was done to it--it lights up normal red, but looks blown out in the pictures.

Maybe just white? Not sure which temperature, but two different colors back there might not look right.

Is the cityscape decal for the back section not available? I see a different version on ebay. Also, anyone have a spare green circle Sanctum decal? I pm'ed Trident over the weekend, but haven't heard from him.

Having a heckuva time trying to find the right slope for my machine to play fast yet still be able to make the upper diverter ramp. I currently have the playfield bubble level touching the fourth line from the bottom. The manual says 6.5 is touching the second line from the bottom. Where I'm currently at has an incline of about 6 near the Sanctum entrance, 6.8 at the lower diverter ramp and about 7.8 in between the slings (using the Sears digital bubble level that most have recommended, not some phone app). It plays fine but only the best shots make the upper diverter. I raised the front up to being at the 6.5 level and it played way too slow.

I've read this thread for other's who had this issue, have read Vid's guide for flipper rebuilds to be sure mine are as they should be (I've re-done all of my machines and they feel correct) waxed the playfield and rebuilt the flippers with completely new mechanisms for the two lower flippers and they feel strong enough since I'm not trying to bust through the Sanctum wall. They always make all other shots reliably enough, but even at my current slope the game can still feel a bit floaty--so when I've tried anything approaching the 6.5 area--like 7.0 between the slings--it gets even worse with the floaty game play. My scores have been fine at all levels so I guess I just gotta choose a level and stick with it. It's just weird that this game and TSPP have seemed to give me a lot of fits for leveling whereas my other games set up at 6.8 in the middle of the playfield and play great with minimal fuss beyond the first 10 minutes of leveling them.

Are you trying to ask if he's going to offer the mod for sale to other Shadow owners?

Googly eyes on Baldwin.

*replace missing ring?
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/spareparts/the-shadow-rings.html

Some people change the flasher bulb covers to purple. Sanctum wear-covering decal dot that's in the Pinside marketplace. Also, the back board cityscape decal from @jonesjb.

Given the choice, would you rather have the Battlefield cover in brass instead of the black nickel? Seems like everyone has said the redone black nickel cover looks phenomenal.

I'd almost consider that cheating--at best, it's not OEM location.

Not bent out into the middle of the playfield!

30003602 (resized).jpg

Is there a place that has good quality audio for the radio show? It's public domain by now, isn't it?

I'm dealing with a "Check switch 51/Wall target down" error. I've had it fixed in the past using Vid's guide for the Shadow wall target, so it seems like it's more of a fine adjustment issue than something actually faulty. I've narrowed it down to the pressure plate that holds the target in place. His guide has it a bit slanted away from the target. Any tips for the fine adjustment of this plate? I can clear the error in the switches menu, let the game reboot and sometimes the target will finish the self test in the upright position as it should be. Usually, the self test ends with the target in the lowered position which generates the credit dot and error message to check switch 51.

I’m referring to the metal plate with two screws that lies against the brick target.

I finally got the parts in to freshen up the wall mechanism and it seems to be rock solid now! Thanks for the help.

Pinsider AlexSMendes

I finally got rid of the default Shadow Loops high score of 2, so I got that going for me.

What’s the deal with that Alex Mendes guy selling Aurich’s translite on the Facebook pinball groups? Is that what got him banned from this site?