(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

11 years ago


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  • 10,927 posts
  • 754 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by allsportdvd
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There are 10,927 posts in this topic. You are on page 93 of 219.
#4601 5 years ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Oh man, I played The Shadow tonight at Black Cat in DC. TRULY one of the greatest pins ever made!! So many awesome shots, ramps, combos, modes, etc!! This WILL be my next pin!

And even a hidden secret mode.

#4602 5 years ago

Any suggestions on how to fix/repair the diverter shaft where the set screw clamps to the shaft? Over time, the set screw moves out of place causing the diverter to have to be re-set. The set screw needs a more solid area to clamp into.

20180310_214936 (resized).jpg20180310_214936 (resized).jpg
#4603 5 years ago

Thanks Sealawyer, I’ll contact him.

#4604 5 years ago
Quoted from dawasa:

Any suggestions on how to fix/repair the diverter shaft where the set screw clamps to the shaft? Over time, the set screw moves out of place causing the diverter to have to be re-set. The set screw needs a more solid area to clamp into.

I would have no idea how to repair the shaft. But you could try a brand new set screw and a dab of loctite.

#4605 5 years ago

Replace the set screw. A new "cup point" screw will lock properly.

Also, if you have enough space, put one short set screw over the other and it'll never come loose.

#4606 5 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Replace the set screw. A new "cup point" screw will lock properly.
Also, if you have enough space, put one short set screw over the other and it'll never come loose.

I will check out a cup point screw. I don't understand the idea of one set screw over the other idea? Can you elaborate?

#4607 5 years ago

If a threaded hole is deep enough, you can put a very short set screw in it, tighten it, then put another very short set screw on top of it. When you tighten the second screw, the first will never ever back out. Better than using Loctite because the top screw keeps the bottom screw intact.

#4608 5 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

If a threaded hole is deep enough, you can put a very short set screw in it, tighten it, then put another very short set screw on top of it. When you tighten the second screw, the first will never ever back out. Better than using Loctite because the top screw keeps the bottom screw intact.

Having just had to tighten the left diverter in the last few days, I can confirm that they isn't enough thread for a second set screw.

At the moment mine is holding without the need for loctite but I have also bought some replacement set screws and if needed I'll swap the old ones out and also use some Loctite. Thanks anyway for sharing the tip - always good to know

#4609 5 years ago

If you know somebody who does welding, they might be able to add some material to the shaft.

#4610 5 years ago

I'm back in!

#4612 5 years ago

Joined! Great shape shadow with gunmetal power coat, led ocd board and some other stuff. Can’t wait to delve into this. Hopefully getting it this week or maybe next. Is a local pin so just a matter of finding time to get it.

#4613 5 years ago

Anyone ever have an issue where the shadow multiball doesnt activate unless you nudge the ball forward? I bent the switches a bit more to ensure the balls cant backslide and it seems to help some in that tight area. Im at 6.5 pitch.

#4614 5 years ago

Couldn't resist those wood grips!

#4615 5 years ago
Quoted from dawasa:

Any suggestions on how to fix/repair the diverter shaft where the set screw clamps to the shaft? Over time, the set screw moves out of place causing the diverter to have to be re-set. The set screw needs a more solid area to clamp into.

Hey Dave Grind a flat spot at point of contact.

#4616 5 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

Couldn't resist those wood grips!

Thanks!, ill pick out the best pair!

#4617 5 years ago

Those wooden grips are cool! I wish someone made a faux-ivory set to mimic the guns from the movie...

#4618 5 years ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

Anyone ever have an issue where the shadow multiball doesnt activate unless you nudge the ball forward? I bent the switches a bit more to ensure the balls cant backslide and it seems to help some in that tight area. Im at 6.5 pitch.

Yes. After adjusting the switches made it better, I still had the issue every so often. I bent the ball guides in slightly making the "channel" narrower. Have not had an issue since.

#4619 5 years ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Those wooden grips are cool! I wish someone made a faux-ivory set to mimic the guns from the movie...

I'm just a sucker for wood grips on a pistol. I tried to resist.. didn't last long. They just look too damn good.

#4620 5 years ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Those wooden grips are cool! I wish someone made a faux-ivory set to mimic the guns from the movie...

Took me a while to sell the only pearl set I had. There simply isnt enough demand to make 100, and its costly to only make a few.....nasty resin to sand and grind......but if you buy a resin billet, you can make a set...just wear a mask 100% of the time.

Quoted from Kneissl:

I'm just a sucker for wood grips on a pistol. I tried to resist.. didn't last long.

Ill confess, I own guns, but dont shoot much, but I love the feel when I grip the wood and pull the trigger on Shadow....its an interesting difference, I guess those more familiar...

#4621 5 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

I love the feel when I grip the wood and pull the trigger on Shadow....its an interesting difference, I guess those more familiar...

It feels right! rubber or plastic don't do it.

#4622 5 years ago

I see what you did there!

#4623 5 years ago

I have recently purchased The shadow - it is an awesome pin tbh. But I have several problems with I cannot solve.

1. Switch from wall target is not working. I have exchanged it to a new one (as well as the diode) and nothing. Switch tests doesnt recognize switch activity. Both coils from wall target are working flawlessly in solenoid test but during gameplay wall target is not dropping (if I put if manualy up) or rising - therefore magnet is not working as well.
2. Optos on the battlefield are not working - i have exchanged transmitter and nothing has changed - it is not visible with cellphone camera (remaining optos are visible of course). Therefore kicker is not working BUT also yellow target which is near the entrance of the battlefield, is not going up or down (the same - in solenoid test it is working ok) - and when the ball drops into the ball popper which should launch the ball to battle field - nothing happens... after some time machine starts to look for a missing ball and then it launches it to the battlefield (but kicker is not working due to bad optos)
3. Left ramp entrance optos - they were working and suddenly no activity and error in test report.

I have checked all the switches - I got three errors - kicker, optos on bf, wall target switch.
Please help I ran out of ideas how to solve this

#4624 5 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Took me a while to sell the only pearl set I had. There simply isnt enough demand to make 100, and its costly to only make a few.....nasty resin to sand and grind......but if you buy a resin billet, you can make a set...just wear a mask 100% of the time.

Ill confess, I own guns, but dont shoot much, but I love the feel when I grip the wood and pull the trigger on Shadow....its an interesting difference, I guess those more familiar...

Makes sense. Do you have pics of it installed? What do you mean by "resin billet?"

#4625 5 years ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

More
Makes sense. Do you have pics of it installed? What do you mean by "resin billet?"

If my memory holds, its a 1911 Colt. This model determines the shape and holes of the grip.
You can order blank rectangles, or shaped pieces of resin poured mother of Pearl from $15-$40 depending on company.
Grinding, sanding, and polishing tools, and outdoors with a mask.

Pearl Grip (resized).jpgPearl Grip (resized).jpg
#4626 5 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

If my memory holds, its a 1911 Colt. This model determines the shape and holes of the grip.
You can order blank rectangles, or shaped pieces of resin poured mother of Pearl from $15-$40 depending on company.
Grinding, sanding, and polishing tools, and outdoors with a mask.

Those look awesome! Are those the ones you made? Someone mentioned modifying existing 1911 grips, which sounds much more reasonable than carving them from scratch from a block of simulated MOP...

#4627 5 years ago

love the pearl. As the Shadow used long Colt 1911's with pearl handles, I'd go for them.

#4628 5 years ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Those look awesome! Are those the ones you made? Someone mentioned modifying existing 1911 grips, which sounds much more reasonable than carving them from scratch from a block of simulated MOP...

Unfortunately the Blanks for that year have holes drilled in a different spot.
You would need to identify and match the resin, and know how to pour, shape, and re-drill....
Must start with undrilled blanks.

Sorry guys, Ive spent over 100 hours on trying to make Pearl Handles for $50-$70 retail.
Only Quantity will achieve that, or 2-5 hours, tools, and blanks. Whats 3 hours worth these days?

I made blonde whiteish maple to go with dark handles....dont know if they cleared from selling out...Ill have to check stock and update shop here.

Maple Grip2 (resized).pngMaple Grip2 (resized).png
#4629 5 years ago

Not to take anything away from Art's wooden grips, but if you wanted Pearl ones, you could try contacting Dave at Tombstone gun grips (https://www.tombstonegrips.com/). I ordered some "blank" (no holes) ones and finished them up myself. I didn't ask, but if you send in a tracing or possibly the original Shadow grips he may be willing to do all the work..? Probably not the cheapest option, but as Art mentioned, easier than trying to grind your own down from a block.

#4630 5 years ago
Quoted from epotech:

love the pearl. As the Shadow used long Colt 1911's with pearl handles, I'd go for them.

EXACTLY my thought! Just because I already ordered Aurich's translite, doesn't mean I want to abandon the movie connection altogether.

Here's the gun from the movie, according to http://www.imfdb.org/wiki/Shadow,_The:

ShadowLARSilverLongSlide (resized).jpgShadowLARSilverLongSlide (resized).jpg

#4631 5 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Not to take anything away from Art's wooden grips, but if you wanted Peal ones, you could try contacting Dave at Tombstone gun grips (https://www.tombstonegrips.com/). I ordered some "blank" (no holes) ones and finished them up myself. I didn't ask, but if you send in a tracing or possibly the original Shadow grips he may be willing to do all the work..? Probably not the cheapest option, but as Art mentioned, easier than trying to grind your own down from a block.

Thanks, Lamprey. Wow, his website is seizure-inducing!! Probably worth me sending him a tracing. Cost of a stamp. Of course, I haven't even joined the club yet (planning to in the next month or two)...

Yours look AWESOME, btw! Hope you don't mind my reposting them here, for those just joining.

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#4632 5 years ago

Translite packing for those who ordered

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#4633 5 years ago

When I had my gun plated, I had interference with the plating around the trigger; it would bind when I tightened the screws. So, I made a paper gasket to go in-between the halves. Fixed the binding issue nicely.

Ah, the beauty of a laser cutter.
gun_gasket (resized).JPGgun_gasket (resized).JPG

#4634 5 years ago

Oh boy. These wood grips are fantastic! It's like that Chuck Mangione song "feels so good"

1528751336732626642404 (resized).jpg1528751336732626642404 (resized).jpg
#4635 5 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

Oh boy. These wood grips are fantastic! It's like that Chuck Mangione song "feels so good"

Thanks, Ill pass that on to Robert. There is a difference when an expert in wood produces even objects like this...

BTW.....Love the Train Tracks under the Pin!

#4636 5 years ago

Under the pins is a great space for a couple loops of o gauge.

#4637 5 years ago

Where was the thread from the guy who was modifying an actual 1911 frame/slide to be the shooter? I can't find it. In addition to looking frikkin' awesome, it would allow for use of stock 1911 grips.

#4638 5 years ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Where was the thread from the guy who was modifying an actual 1911 frame/slide to be the shooter? I can't find it. In addition to looking frikkin' awesome, it would allow for use of stock 1911 grips.

Never mind, I found it:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/90#post-4296604
4a07cc70c26bfc21e08134d421b10f9be28abb89 (resized).jpg4a07cc70c26bfc21e08134d421b10f9be28abb89 (resized).jpga10bba3799d86487cde0d332dea28a7466fcd585_jpeg (resized).jpga10bba3799d86487cde0d332dea28a7466fcd585_jpeg (resized).jpg

#4639 5 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Thank you, i am about to power up today for test out. I thought it looked like a cool street lamp. Also i got asked if i can make some of the mini playfield thumb screws. Is anyone interested in this?

I need a thumbscrew post. Not sure if you made a few or not. Just catching up on about 400 posts in this group. LOL

#4640 5 years ago

In the club. Playfield looks great and I need a coil for the battlefield kicker, which is ordered.

Really in need of a playfield plastics set. Basically all of them. If anyone can help out / point me in a direction id really appreciate it.

#4641 5 years ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

In the club. Playfield looks great and I need a coil for the battlefield kicker, which is ordered.
Really in need of a playfield plastics set. Basically all of them. If anyone can help out / point me in a direction id really appreciate it.

CPR website, or check regular cast of parts suppliers

#4642 5 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

CPR website, or check regular cast of parts suppliers

Ordered from CPR. Gracias!

#4643 5 years ago

I need a Manual for The Shadow, can someone help me with where to purchase one or would someone make me a copy. I would gladly pay for it and shipping. Lost without it as a guide and reference for parts....HELP! Please.

Thanks, Brad bradtuttle497 at yahoo.com

#4644 5 years ago
Quoted from Demoman1:

I need a Manual for The Shadow, can someone help me with where to purchase one or would someone make me a copy. I would gladly pay for it and shipping. Lost without it as a guide and reference for parts....HELP! Please.
Thanks, Brad bradtuttle497 at yahoo.com

Here is a link to the PDF version:
https://www.ipdb.org/files/2528/Manual_Bally_1994_The_Shadow.pdf

Do you really need a hard copy? If so you can print your own (from the pdf) or ebay has a couple..

#4645 5 years ago

I'm pretty sure my Complete all Scenes insert is always lit on the scarf - any ideas why that would be?

#4646 5 years ago

Anyone have a spare "Sanctum Dot" or similar to spare? I PM'd original poster but no luck so far. Mine has a small dot that would easily be covered up by this.

#4647 5 years ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

Anyone have a spare "Sanctum Dot" or similar to spare? I PM'd original poster but no luck so far. Mine has a small dot that would easily be covered up by this.

Yeah shoot me a PM they aren't perfect but they should work. I could probably send them to ya snail mail.

#4648 5 years ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

Anyone have a spare "Sanctum Dot" or similar to spare? I PM'd original poster but no luck so far. Mine has a small dot that would easily be covered up by this.

I have a couple spares, too. The 3M mylar type ones.

#4649 5 years ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

I'm pretty sure my Complete all Scenes insert is always lit on the scarf - any ideas why that would be?

Do you have leds? Could be ghosting bad. If so, try a regular incandescent bulb.

#4650 5 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Do you have leds? Could be ghosting bad. If so, try a regular incandescent bulb.

I do but they are all the same type.

So after looking at it again - it only seems to do it in 2 places. During attract mode it does it while lighting the scarf up and down (complete all modes insert stays lit)

Once you are in game and you go through at least one mode (one mode insert stays solid) then it's solid for the rest of the game.

That might be how it's supposed to be, but I'm not sure - maybe someone can confirm here.

Thanks

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