They're not quite the same as the inlane/outlanes. It's a smaller wireform with a totally different shape. I don't care if it's an exact replacement, I just want the physical switch body to fit into the metal bracket under the playfield, and the wireform to work.

I guess I could just get a generic wire, and bend it how I want?

Usually you can move the wire from the old switch to the new one. Is yours missing or damaged?

It's not. Good advice though. I never considered that option since my experience with newer games with microswitches is rather limited. I always assumed that the wireform was permanently attached to the actual switch.

In that case, I guess it's simply a matter of ordering the correct black casing then.

Just added arts arcade real wood gun grips. They are awesome.

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Hey sorry where can I get one of these?

I'm still looking for one too

Trident made them https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-sanctum-new-decal-mod

I have several green dots i'd part with. If you need one, DM

Added over 6 years ago: I don't have any more green dots, sorry!

mbaumle see https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/86#post-4061211 (and a few posts prior to that).

The rack uses three screws with VERY shallow threads. Excessive tightening will rip the threads out. When this happens, you need to replace the rack gear. You can't fix that lack of thread area.

The pinion is nylon as well, so wear is even. Don't use the brass gear (so called upgrade) as it can and will tear up the rack gear.

Light grease will keep clatter to a minimum, but not completely necessary to maintain normal wear.

Do they still make the sockets for the small bulbs that are used in the rings? Or at least, is there a clever substitute that I could use? The previous operator clipped off the original ones and clumsily taped the leads on to 555 bulbs, and I'd like to convert it back to the small thin bulbs.

Solder wires directly to the led bulb and heat shrink, a dab of hot glue to hold in place and forget about it.

Same problem here, I have solved just like grumpy said!

Thank you gentlemen! I’ll go down that route. I should’ve waited to inspect the rings before ordering a handful of the small stock bulbs.

Still looking for a green dot if anyone has a spare

I don't have any more green dot stickers. Sorry!

Staples still gas packs of green dot stickers available: https://m.staples.com/Avery-3-4-Round-Print--Write-Color-Coding-Labels-Green-Neon-1008-Pack-13954-5468/product_538066

I've been getting a lot of rejects when I hit a good shot into the mini play field vertical launcher hole. What is normally the cause of this? too bouncy rubbers on the posts?

I get a lot of rejects, too. Not sure how to fix. Shot is kind of like TZ lock shot. Ball has to turn a bit so my guess is ball rattles around. One fix for TZ was a thin magnetic strip on ball guide. Helps cushion and hold ball. Not sure that will work for Shadow, though.

Hope I didn’t miss it!

Where did you get the grips?

Grips were the original parts on the factory gun.

Just finished shopping my game. Since it was a reimport, its currently running LX-2 ROMs. I'd like to update them. What's everyone running? LX-6? Do home ROMs exist for this game? Also, I don't have to change out the security chip out when updating the roms, correct?

Thanks

Followup question:

I'm having a hard time adjusting the battlefield drop target switch. I had to solder in a new one, since the small plastic tabs that hold the metal actuator broke off. Can anyone describe how it should work? Or maybe take some pictures of the area with the drop target up and down?

It looks like the yellow drop target should activate the switch when hit down, but I can't seem to get the adjustment right.

Edit: Problem resolved. Bally was kind enough to put the whole assembly on molex connectors, so I took the whole thing out and rebuilt it on the bench. The metal switch actuator is activated by a tab on the back of the target itself.

all right shadow owners i really need your help. I'm about to take my game to MGC for everyone to play. but im trying to track down a switch problem and I'm desperate for help.
after I turn on the game and play a few games, all of a sudden some switches stop registering. like when i enter my battlefield VUK nothing happens. same thing with the right and left eject holes. i have found that when it enters one the eject or the VUK the ball when just stay there, til i hit a fipper button then mode will start because the ball is in the eject. if i enter the battle field VUK I have to hit both flipper buttons for the switch to activate.

makes sense? almost like the flipper completes thed circuit. Do i have a dioide on backwards some where? any help would be appreciated. because if i have to order parts i need to do it soon as the show is this Friday. please help thank you jeremy

All of the switches you've listed are in the same column in the switch matrix. These would be switches with the green wire and violet tracer. Start simple by looking for cold solder joints along those (and other switches in the column) or a poor connection at the connector (J207-7 on the CPU).

Agree with mbaumle. Try tugging on each wire when checking. I remember having an intermittent switch issue on my Congo a while back. Everything looked good but when you pulled on one wire it just slipped out of the solder connection.

Finished the launcher mod, all welded up and mounted.if anyone is going to the NRA convention in Dallas next month I will have it there in the Cabot booth for play.

Upgraded my Shadow this weekend with PDI antireflective glass and Art’s wooden grips with Mercury dimes. It’s like the glass isn’t even there!

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Happy to say I've joined the club - what a great game.

I know it's been asked a few times, but can't seem to track down an answer - Where can one find the Sanctum green dot sticker?

Thanks!

Honestly, save yourself the trouble and get some JB Weld, a thing of Apple Barrel branded “Country Grey” paint (.99 cents at AC Moore), and a small cutout of Mylar.

-Clean the surrounding area with naphtha/Novus 2, use painters tape to tape off the surrounding area, mix up the JB Weld and fill in the divot (use a putty knife to smooth it out).

-Let the epoxy cure for 24 hours. Then block sand the JB weld down Flush with the rest of the Playfield. Wipe down with naphtha.

-retape everything (since sanding will take the tape off), and using a foam brush, brush on a good hearty coat of the country grey paint. Let dry.

-remove paint. Slap on a piece of Mylar, and I guarantee it’ll be a perfect paint match.

It might sound like a lot of work, but it’s really not. And it’ll permanently fix the problem, and look 10000x better than the stupid green dot or horrendously matches grey sanctum decal. If I remember, I’ll post some before and after pictures of my game. It was *really* bad.

thank you for your help. I was spending a lot of time tracking it down last night. need to get ready for the show. I have found out that when this incident occurs it only happens when there are 2 balls locked in the sanctum. then I can hit the ball in either eject or battlefield VUK nothing happens. I lifted up the playfield and when the balls roll around up top from lifting the playfield it actives the eject switch the ball is in. get it? kinda like one the top lock switches is preventing it from activating a eject switch. I looked at the switch matrix like you said and found the column 5 switches this is happening in. which prompted to look at all the switches in that column. so when this happened again I moved the lock diverter just a touch so the balls move forward a little bit and then switches activate and act normal. I see the diverter is adjustable. Anybody hear or has had that happen to them? is there a proper way to adjust it? never ran into this. thank you for your time jeremy

Thanks man,
Somewhere during it's life someone did fill and used who knows what, and painted with some kind of silver which isn't even close to matching. I suppose i could find that paint and have a go using some thinning agent and a really soft artist brush. It's not terrible but the rest of the PF looks pretty damn good so I'd like to make it whole again.

Appreciate it.

You honestly don't even need to do that. The foam brush doesn't leave any brush strokes, and the mylar covers up any imperfections. Here's some pictures of exactly what I used, and the results:

The paint, brush, and epoxy I used. I also used standard blue painter's tape.
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What I was up against:
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How it turned out:
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If you're standing right over it, you can clearly see that I probably could've taken a little more time to "feather" the edges of the taped off area, but this was my first attempt, and I think if you exclude the time it took to cure the epoxy and dry the paint, I spent maybe 30 minutes total on the fix, and maybe $5 in "parts." If I had another go at it, I could probably make the seams imperceptible. From a player's perspective, it's honestly not even noticeable.

When I get my house back, I'll try to print some green dots up.......

Hook it up brother! I also need to buy one of your wood gun grips...

This is the repair process I took with mine, and it looks great (just make sure you really sand down the JB Weld, can't be any ridge at all). I still like the look of the green dot though, and would like to put one on to be extra careful.

What coil is everyone using for the sanctum lock? My magnet is dead on, but the "throw back" seems a little weak, especially over numerous games played. I am using AE-23-800

Yep! What coil to throw the ball back to lock?

Yeah, the magnet de-energizes for a split second causing the ball to fall down a bit; then the magnet energizes for a split second to pull the ball back up the table causing the "throw" back to the lock.

-Jim

I actually have the "stupid green dot" on my game and happen to think it looks really good. Matches the art on the playfield perfectly.

+1 for the stupid green dot

Yeah, I knew the magnet would have to pull the ball back, but my magnet is hooked up to a coil. When I unplug that coil, the magnet stopping action still works, but the throw back doesn't.

So what would typically cause a weak throw back action? I just replaced my magnet. Appreciate the assistance!

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You like what you like, and I’m glad you like it.

I just think the green dot removes some of the “magic” that magnet area has by breaking the “nothing is there to influence the ball” illusion.

Especially that the country grey paint color is a nearly flawless match right out of the bottle, it’s totally worth a try to make it look the way it’s supposed to.

The illusion still fools me every single time.....even with the green dot.

Joking aside, your repair looks great.

That looks very wrong. Here's a pic of mine.

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Kinda figured the coil was some sort of hack. I just replaced the coil, and it throws it back perfect now.

Not sure why I have an extra coil in the machine though...