Shadow, The
Bally, 1994Quoted from Lmjdad:This just happened... Does anyone have an extra one for sale? I’m aware of the gold repros which are too gold for me..
I have some extra plastics to trade or can buy outright.
Thank you
All the repros I've seen don't have the "wash" (dark paint in the cracks). If you wanted to buy a repro set and then just apply your own black wash to them, they should look pretty close to the originals.
Handmade Artisan Wood Grips are now available!!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-artist-made-wood-gun-grips-for-shadow#post-4040026
Just checking to see if anyone has the Dynamite The Art of the Shadow book they'd be willing to sell (or know where to buy one)?
https://www.dynamite.com/htmlfiles/viewProduct.html?PRO=C1524100404
Cheers!
So my Shadow started goofing up again yesterday.... This is a never ending story....
These are my problems now.... First problem noted; when the ball enters the mini playfield the yellow shooter stopped working..... 2nd problem after awhile.... The droptarget that enables entrance to the mini playfield goes as it should down, but then immediately raises again denying entry.....
What am I up to here ?
Any hint where to even begin is appreciated.
Thanks
Matt
there's a problem with the mini playfield. The drop target defaults to block your path up to the mini playfield by program. setting a error code. open coin door read codes
I could use some help with my wall target. The wall target stopped going down a little while ago. I could see no problem with the small coil (SM 30-1100-DC) so I took apart the assembly. Everything looked fine and coil moved freely. I put it back together and it worked fine for a short while but same problem again. In testing, I can hear what sounds like a small tapping noise coming from that area but cannot get the coil to fire. No other problems with the game. Other coils work and fuses check out okay. I checked the resistance and it is 16 ohms. That seems high compared to other coils but not sure if that is normal for that particular coil. Should I replace the coil or is does it sound like a board issue?
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Black nickle gun and i made my own pearl grips from scratch
Lovely work!
Quoted from jawjaw:I could use some help with my wall target. The wall target stopped going down a little while ago. I could see no problem with the small coil (SM 30-1100-DC) so I took apart the assembly. Everything looked fine and coil moved freely. I put it back together and it worked fine for a short while but same problem again. In testing, I can hear what sounds like a small tapping noise coming from that area but cannot get the coil to fire. No other problems with the game. Other coils work and fuses check out okay. I checked the resistance and it is 16 ohms. That seems high compared to other coils but not sure if that is normal for that particular coil. Should I replace the coil or is does it sound like a board issue?
Loose wire perhaps?
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Black nickle gun and i made my own pearl grips from scratch
Cool grips -- how'd you do it?
Quoted from fosaisu:Cool grips -- how'd you do it?
Bought pearlite blank stock2.5x5 on ebay and a mill. Then finish with dremel
Hi pinheads 
Seems like the lockup switches may be wrong in the manual. It says:
lockup switch left----- : 5647-12693-32 Correct.
lockup switch middle- : 5647-12073-33 should be 5647-12693-33
lockup switch right--- : 5647-12073-34 should be 5647-12693-34
Am i right or wrong? Not able to find any switch in 12073 area..
If i am right- could this part work? Have anyone tried this part?
CHAMPION PUB (BALLY) 3 BANK MICROSWITCH ASSEMBLY
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-22254
Best regards OH
shadow plastics and mongols
just listed these in market if someone is in need.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/56397
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/56403
Based upon a data at http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2996 it appears your supposition is correct (and only the switch body changed from DA3 to DA5 or DB3). Further it appears you can buy just switch bodies (e.g. http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=830) and wireforms (example: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=918) separately if you want... so worst case don't throw away the old switches... keep the wireforms and you could put them on a new switch. (As it doesn't look like those wireforms are readily available.)
FYI: Here is the 8647-12693-33 page... http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1994 it suggests DA3 --> DB3
FYI: Additional data supporting the above as I also found the 5647-12073-33 and -34 listed at http://www.pbresource.com/microswitch.html and comparing http://www.pbresource.com/switches/w-5647-12073-33.jpg to http://www.pbresource.com/switches/w-5647-12693-33.jpg they appear nearly identical (but who knows maybe there is a subtle difference). Worse case you likely could bend the metal a bit to match what you need.
Lastly an additional link (from which I learned by researching an answer to your question):
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cherry-microswitches-in-wms-games
Quoted from delt31:This looks great!
How are you liking the shadow?
Its tore down at the moment redoing the cab,allnew plastics, brass ramps and wireforms. Total shop, hoping tobe done by end of month
Quoted from bballfan:It looks like your shaft with the rubber stop is missing the screw affixing it to the bracket.
Yeah true . I took the picture before I put the screw back in. I actually had the shafts in the wrong position and switched them since.
Quoted from delt31:Anyone looking to leave the club pm me.... Alt translite imperative. Thanks
Bruh, this club is like Hotel California.
Anyone got a good shop top side tear down photo album of their shadow. My phone broke and im starting to reassemble mine and need pictures for reference
Random picture. Was looking through pics and ran across the last Shadow I had where I was experimenting with powdercoating the ramps. I really dig the way the black one looks in front of the battlefield. The blue one isn't the right color blue, but I think it's the right direction. I'll probably experiment with the blue a little more (and maybe a brick red since that one goes over the red brick sanctum plastic - it might blend with the brick wall mod on the back of the playfield, too) when I get the next Shadow.
Quoted from PinMonk:Random picture. Was looking through pics and ran across the last Shadow I had where I was experimenting with powdercoating the ramps. I really dig the way the black one looks in front of the battlefield. The blue one isn't the right color blue, but I think it's the right direction. I'll probably experiment with the blue a little more (and maybe a brick red since that one goes over the red brick sanctum plastic - it might blend with the brick wall mod on the back of the playfield, too) when I get the next Shadow.
In my opinion, I'd suggest not to fix what isn't broken. The brass looks perfect, and reflects the art deco age of the theme. It's good to have contrast with the playfield and unity with the wireforms.
Additionally, the brass is one of the many things that makes Shadow unique, most pins have the classic silver wireforms. Brass is special here, so I can't see hiding it in any way. Maybe that's just me?
Quoted from jonesjb:In my opinion, I'd suggest not to fix what isn't broken. The brass looks perfect, and reflects the art deco age of the theme. It's good to have contrast with the playfield and unity with the wireforms.
Agreed. It's great the way it is.
Quoted from PinMonk:it might blend with the brick wall mod on the back of the playfield, too) when I get the next Shadow.
Where did you get that brick wall mod from?
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Anyone got a good shop top side tear down photo album of their shadow. My phone broke and im starting to reassemble mine and need pictures for reference
what you looking for man?
20160416_112724_001 (resized).jpg
20160313_191040 (resized).jpg
[
Quoted from jawjaw:I could use some help with my wall target. The wall target stopped going down a little while ago. I could see no problem with the small coil (SM 30-1100-DC) so I took apart the assembly. Everything looked fine and coil moved freely. I put it back together and it worked fine for a short while but same problem again. In testing, I can hear what sounds like a small tapping noise coming from that area but cannot get the coil to fire. No other problems with the game. Other coils work and fuses check out okay. I checked the resistance and it is 16 ohms. That seems high compared to other coils but not sure if that is normal for that particular coil. Should I replace the coil or is does it sound like a board issue?
Follow up: problem turned out to be the plunger part. The shaft and tip were coming apart. If spun a certain way it would hold together and work. Replaced the part and problem fixed. Something to check if having problems with wall dropping.
Quoted from grandy:robertstone0407
Here are a bunch of Shadow teardown photos
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Hg2rLsHrj0E8zg272
Thanks a ton brother
Quoted from jonesjb:In my opinion, I'd suggest not to fix what isn't broken. The brass looks perfect, and reflects the art deco age of the theme. It's good to have contrast with the playfield and unity with the wireforms.
Additionally, the brass is one of the many things that makes Shadow unique, most pins have the classic silver wireforms. Brass is special here, so I can't see hiding it in any way. Maybe that's just me?
What are these brass ramps you speak of?
Quoted from mwong168:Where did you get that brick wall mod from?
Just got some dollhouse brick wall sheets (a long time ago) and cut to fit.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Dollhouse-Minaiture-Scale-Antique-Brick/dp/B01DOKBPTM
You take the flashers off and cut holes for the bulbs, put on the sheet of brick, then put flasher covers back on.
.....Also dimensional brick walls in Train and model hobby looks good too!
I have not bought the one in this link, so I cant confirm but its like this:
ebay.com link: Dollhouse Modern Brick Wall Material Sheet 34977 World Model Miniatures
Quoted from sebo:Yes I did it myself, I find it matches the shadow pinball theme very well. In reality it looks much better but my phone has not a very good camera.
I wonder how shiny gold/brass decals would lookin the battlefield targets. Just metallic gold, no designs.
Quoted from sebo:Yes I did it myself, I find it matches the shadow pinball theme very well. In reality it looks much better but my phone has not a very good camera.
Nice job!
Quoted from xsonics2k2:Thanks. Kinda hard to tell w/ those pics so I’ll try to rally and get a video up for anyone else on the fence.
I'm curious too. Thinking of getting a color screen. LED or LCD any advice?
Quoted from jonesjb:I'm curious too. Thinking of getting a color screen. LED or LCD any advice?
The LEDs are too intense, so I'm sticking with LCD.
Quoted from PinMonk:The LEDs are too intense, so I'm sticking with LCD.
Can't you dim the LED?
Quoted from jonesjb:Can't you dim the LED?
But then it's not enough. I didn't see a happy medium.
Quoted from Parzival:Is there a transparent Sanctum decal? My grey paint looks really good, but the decal I have isnt even close.
If it's transparent, aren't you just talking about mylar? The decals are non-transparent to cover up burn/wear marks from the magnet.
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