wow! that looks sweet! you planning on making and selling those, or care to share the file?

I dig the comic look, very fun!

I actually came to this thread to let people know I'm doing another run of my translite package. I've already emailed everyone on my list, if you're interested and weren't on it already you can sign up here:

https://goo.gl/forms/bD34wa80Yjldjf3D3

I'll put the order in next week.

Yep, I like that

it s a beauty wow good work!

My Sanctum lock is acting up, and as far as I can tell, it isn't the usual suspects. Here's the problem: About 1 lock in 10, the lock sequence makes all the right sounds, and the wall drops, but the magnet doesn't activate. I don't mean it's weak or it drops the ball after the grab... It does not turn on at all.

- The opto appears to work perfectly, never failing to see the ball
- The wall target appears to work properly when tested (and, it has been replaced without fixing my problem ... and the magnet is supposed to fire the first time before the wall switch closes anyway, right?)
- The magnet works perfectly 90% of the time, and the rest of the time, it appears to not energize at all
- The game has never reported a switch error. If the wall switch is, say, getting stuck closed when it should be open (wall up), that state has never happened at boot time

I have made a video showing the malfunction in action. It is about 2 minutes long. (I even filmed the wall drop mech from underneath!) I'd be hugely appreciative if any other agents of the Shadow could take a look and give me some ideas. I expect I have just misunderstood or misdiagnosed something but it's been vexing me for a long time.

Could you post a link to the LED you used to light up your Battlefield?

Are there ball locked in the sanctum when the problem begins?
Maybe the problem is in the switch behind the wall not registering the ball and then not activating the magnet to "suck" the next one?

Returning to my missing sockets in the rings bulb. I thought to substitute them with #86 bulb (from TZ or CFBL). Now should i add a diode or resistor or i can solder the wires directly to the bulbs legs? is indifferent which wire go where?

Hope I explained me well..thanks for the help!

In my lock problem it appears to happen with equal probability on lock 1, 2, or 3. I have also replaced the lock switches in desperation anyway. So, I don't think they are involved. But at this point I am unsure of everything!

New to the group and the game.. so I didn't read through 78 pages of this thread (yet) but I am doing a upper play field motor and gear swap coming up. The parts are in, including a metal gear to replace the broken plastic piece, instructions, etc.

Instructions say to punch out the pin, and then drill out the existing hole with a vice.

I purchased a new motor, and also the original motor is likely still working.. so my question is...

Any advice from anyone here that may have done this fix already? How do you hold the motor, AND the part I need to drill out? Put the motor in a vice, but how do i secure the part I'm drilling into?

I picked the game up last week, HUO and zero wear on the sanctum! nice! I bought the upgrade LED kit, and will do before/after pics once completed.

Thanks in Advance,
Steve

Can fellow Shadow owners please check their pin to help me with something? I'm trying to figure out if the closer or further metal rod has the rubber sleeve in the VUK (in center of photo below). Can anyone please shed some insight?

IMG_4283 (resized).JPG

I'm going to replace the optos, because why not. But I have never observed what appears to be an opto failure. Every time the ball crosses the optos, the game makes the right sound for the current state. The game makes the "I'm locking the ball" noise, and it drops the wall on cue, but the magnet does not activate.

If it was the opto at fault I would expect to occasionally send a ball up there and fail to light lock. That has never happened.

It is as if about 10% of the time, a gremlin unplugs the magnet. Guess I should check the magnet connector and maybe the transistor. Can a transistor fail in such a way that it works normally most of the time, but sometimes fails to switch on the juice?

Drilling the bronze gear becomes an excersize in frustration. The cross-drilled hole must line up EXACTLY to the motor shaft and be absolutely dead center of the bronze in order for the roll pin to fit properly. Also, the metal gear against the nylon rack gear tends to wear the teeth off the softer rack gear...IMO it's better to have both gears in plastic to get the diverter to work right.

But.

If you can get that gear centered on a machinist's vise and use the 1/16" drill dead center, it will work for you. You need a pretty precision drill press or milling machine to get it exactly right. The area in which there's no teeth on that gear is shorter than the nylon gear, so you have to take that dimension into consideration.

If the project turns out badly, you might consider this pre-drilled kit with both gears:

http://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=945&search=shadow&description=true

Mine gave me a lot of problems when I first got it. Turned out to be a switch adjustment issue but game never reported switch errors. Mine still acts up once in a while.

I think Shadow is the hardest game I own.
It plays so fast and there's so much bounce, you really need to control the ball.
The modes are great! I pushed my mode timers up to 55 seconds and finally made it to the end of Save Tram mode for the first time

I vaguely remember messing with this -- I feel like the brass gear was drilled and threaded in two places -- is that right? Original had a single caulder pin thru gear and shaft? If that's correct I'd just reuse the original motor and use 2 Allen set screws on the gear. I'm pretty positive I did this on a non drilled new motor shaft after giving up on any chance on drilling thru it correctly. the set screws hold it secure if you tighten them good. I kind of remember a lot of frustration with the gear on the shaft trying to drill thru the existing holes on the gear using them as a guide but it's impossible to hold it all secure AND keep the bit from walking on the circular shaft. At least that was my experience..

Appears to be the further one that has the rubber sleeve.... if I'm understanding your question correctly.

Mine looks just like yours, see attached.

20170629_083911 (resized).jpg

Anyone has advice on this lamps issue?
I have to ask another favor..can someone post me a picture of how are soldered the cables on the G and N targets and also of the single target near the sanctum ? They doesn't work and I think someone changed them in a bad way..
Thank you

I have a problem.... The four ring lamps died all of the sudden. Took down the boards and changed bridge rectifiers and caps. After that the lamps won't light. All worked fine before the swap and it is unlikely all for broke at the same time.... Do they run on a separate circuit and are they in any way handled differently than the other controlled lamps ? I do not have a manual but was thinking it could be a common easy fix problem on The Shadow.

Thanks for any input.

Reg
Matt

Why would you attempt board repair without a manual? The manual is available on IPDB.

shopped mine out today, all new plastics, stainless steel hardware, wax, grumpy mod wit extra gi led strip under upper playfield. i put 2 lights on the upper playfield wit blue leds. thanks to grumpy great mod!

IMG_2029 (resized).JPG

IMG_2030 (resized).JPG

IMG_2034 (resized).JPG

Attempt..... ? BR 1-5 = standard swap on all WPC boards. Hardly need a manual for what is common knowledge should one want to bulletproof a game.......

Wow, love that last photo, what lights did you use for your setup on the battlefield?

Yes, perfect, this is exactly the info I was after.

Looks very nice indeed.

My point is that you made that change without even knowing what circuit powers those lights.

Could somebody post a picture of the wiring for the left lane bulbs or confirm I have it right? Left outlane turns on both bulbs and inlane bulb doesn't work on its own at all. I changed the diodes and it did not work.

Thanks

20170701_122537 (resized).jpg

Remove the 2 yellow/blk wires and put them together with the single yellow wire on the same socket.

Ahh..thanks grumpy.

Besides the point..... I was asking if the four lights and in which way they might be game specific, being controlled lightning, recieve any special treatment than all other controlled lights.... Still way far off and in another department than replacing B.R's and main caps....... You don't seem to know the solution to my root question but question if I'm capable on working on basic bullet proofing on boards or not..

Look for a broken Yellow/grey wire just before the rings.

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2528/Manual_Bally_1994_The_Shadow.pdf
Put a lot of paper in your printer.

I'm having trouble with the switch on the lower left ramp when the ball goes to the right side. It doesn't register 100% of the time. I have replaced the switch itself, adjusted numerous times.

Also the ball occasionally gets hung up there if the shot to it is a soft shot.

I feel like I read at one point someone suggested using a different switch arm then the one that came installed.

Any help?

Wedding in October is a little more than we expected. Shadow is on the market. Going to Pintastic if anyone is interested.

Machine - For Sale

Shadow, The Archived

Used - shows wear but 100% working and clean - “Had this for about year. Wanted it to be a keeper but with a wedding in October we had to make the hard choice of letting it go. Trying to bring this up to Pintastic. The Playfie...”

2017-07-02

Chalfont, PA

ryandimx

3,800

Archived after: 6 days

Viewed: 254 times

Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

Thanks Grumpy.... A sane reply at last.... Will P.M you for the board

reg
Matt

Bought my Shadow about 5 years ago and I'm still very happy with it!
Love the layout, sounds, animations, and fast gameplay

Playfield (resized).jpg

The problem is most likely that the ball is hauling ass around the turn and flying over the switch. This can be fixed with a longer switch arm, or by making a bracket that moves the switch more downstream. I did the latter and will post a pic tomorrow.

Moving the switch or lengthening the arm also means the ball has more speed when it hits the arm, which will help your hang up problem.

Cut the pink quick connector off and solder wire directly to the switch.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=379

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=380

Thanks. Ordered the second switch, and if that doesn't work I will try grumpys suggestion

sorry for delay i was away from the game.
i used 2 spotlights. did not use the reflective dome due to clearance issues.

IMG_2074 (resized).JPG
IMG_2076 (resized).JPG
IMG_2077 (resized).JPG

dupe

Ordered both of these when I got my Shadow. Ended up using the first one listed here and it solved my issue 100%. In fact, I have not had a single issue with it since installation nearly a year ago.

Nice! I ordered the second as I figured I could always cut it down if 4" proved too much

Since I had scrap acrylic I made a bracket and relocated the OEM switch. This works fine but it probably looks nicer to keep the switch in its original spot and use a longer arm.

Screen Shot 2017-07-04 at 10.51.55 PM (resized).png

Aside from being together 5 years, having a house and a 3 year old, we have a full game room together. She owns an Eatpm on top of a handful of the videos. My games are not in any danger.
Just trying to cover some of the final costs.

Same way I set mine up

Nice mod though!

mine is like that somebody modded it the same way and it works every single time.
btw your wire forms look nice, mine are very light and not so bright the brass dulled out.