(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

6 years ago



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  • 6,666 posts
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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Graysonsdad
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There are 6666 posts in this topic. You are on page 75 of 134.
#3701 2 years ago

I have a used set and a repro set I could sell. I forget who the repro set was made by, but it was the guy before CPR started making their sets.

#3702 2 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

We need to start some group wanted lists for missing plastics. When you have enough people interested a full set is bought and split among those needed various plastics. I need these two...

Is there a place to buy them other than e-bay? That guy has them marked up about $100.

#3703 2 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

I have a used set and a repro set I could sell. I forget who the repro set was made by, but it was the guy before CPR started making their sets.

I'd be down for those two plastics if you can find enough other people interested in the rest. It's just not worth it to me to buy the whole set. My big plastic is only missing the tip of that white section and the other plastic is a ways in the back. With some red bulbs in there it's hard to even tell see that it's missing.

#3704 2 years ago

I have a tech issue with the left flipper that I'm assuming is something stupid/simple. I just replaced the flipper buttons (the left one had a bad spring) and flipper opto interruptor plates on both flippers. When I turned the game on and started a game, the left flipper isn't working. Both diverters and both right flipper (lower and upper) are working fine.

In switch test, the opto shows up when I press the left flipper button but that's it. When I manually lift the left flipper the switch test also shows the left flipper EOS. All the wires and connections look fine on the flipper opto board and all of the wires and connections look fine on the left flipper coil.

Help!!

#3705 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I have a tech issue with the left flipper that I'm assuming is something stupid/simple. I just replaced the flipper buttons (the left one had a bad spring) and flipper opto interruptor plates on both flippers. When I turned the game on and started a game, the left flipper isn't working. Both diverters and both right flipper (lower and upper) are working fine.
In switch test, the opto shows up when I press the left flipper button but that's it. When I manually lift the left flipper the switch test also shows the left flipper EOS. All the wires and connections look fine on the flipper opto board and all of the wires and connections look fine on the left flipper coil.
Help!!

I swapped the flipper opto board from the right to left and the left flipper worked so it's definitely a bad opto on the board.

#3706 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

played around with some back box lighting tonight using a big variety of bulbs. Thought it came out pretty nice. Did a mix of blue super premiums (no top) and frosted purple super premiums for the sky. used cool whites around the moon, red supers on scarf area, and warm whites on shadows body. Lit the lamp in bottom left corner with warm white super (no top) and used difused orange opmax for the light over buildings on left side.

I suggest pulling some of the bulbs in the middle around Shadow's body. Free to try and I think it looks better.

#3707 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I swapped the flipper opto board from the right to left and the left flipper worked so it's definitely a bad opto on the board.

Please let me know where u find your replacement.

#3708 2 years ago
#3710 2 years ago

Alright, so I have a ball lock issue that I'm hoping folks can help me with. Before diving in, my machine has the magnet flush with the playfield like a stern so I can see the ball physically lock onto the magnet.

Issue:
When I hit the lock, the magnet locks the ball, the wall target opens, but sometimes the ball isn't released by the magnet and thrown throw for a lock. The ball will sit until the game searches for the ball and will either be released by the magnet or you'll need to shake the machine to release the ball. When the magnet grabs the ball, it normally grabs it so the ball sits perfectly centered on the magnet and when that happens the lock feature works 100%. The times where it doesn't work, the ball isn't centered on the magnet and sits a little bit off-center in the bottom-left corner of the magnet.

From what I read, it seems like it's one of 3 things: 1) the switch on the wall target, 2) the optos' positioning or 3) the magnet core itself. I'm thinking that it's not #1 since the wall seems to function properly each time.

Any ideas? If it's the optos, how would I know how to adjust them properly?

THANKS!!

P.S. I'll also post a tech help thread as well

#3711 2 years ago

Is it possible the ball is magnetized?

That could explain the off-center, and also, the hold on the ball when the electromagnet is powered down.

Maybe try using new pinballs, from another machine to verify.

#3712 2 years ago

Just installed new balls yesterday but the issue was happening with the old ones as well

#3713 2 years ago

Only other thing I could think of is possibly an offset divet in the PF. The effect would be to hold the ball in it, and keep it in it. Maybe.

Try filling the stop area with a couple layers of adhesive acrylic or mylar?

#3714 2 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Only other thing I could think of is possibly an offset divet in the PF. The effect would be to hold the ball in it, and keep it in it. Maybe.
Try filling the stop area with a couple layers of adhesive acrylic or mylar?

One of my theories is that the ball, when it's locked on the magnet but not centered on it, is perhaps hitting the opto. Maybe the magnet isn't being triggered properly to let go due to the opto placement?

#3715 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

One of my theories is that the ball, when it's locked on the magnet but not centered on it, is perhaps hitting the opto. Maybe the magnet isn't being triggered properly to let go due to the opto placement?

Perhaps another theory is that perhaps the switch on the wall drop target isn't registering each time? Seems doubtful given the definitive connection between the position of the ball when it's locked on the magnet but I'm certainly no expert.

#3716 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Alright, so I have a ball lock issue that I'm hoping folks can help me with. Before diving in, my machine has the magnet flush with the playfield like a stern so I can see the ball physically lock onto the magnet.

Can you post a picture of this? I can't help but think this is part of the issue, since the game was not designed like this.

#3717 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Can you post a picture of this? I can't help but think this is part of the issue, since the game was not designed like this.

The pic looks much worse than it is...the area is smooth with no noticeable divot. I ordered a new magnet core size they're cheap and will install that later this week once it arrives.

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#3718 2 years ago

Can someone explain the the lock process...because perhaps it's the opto location. Here's my understanding:

Ball passes by opto and triggers magnet, wall target drops and hits wall switch which triggers magnet release, ball rolls down playfield until it passes opto, which trigger magnet activation to throw ball into lock.

If the above is correct, then perhaps when the ball is grabbed by the magnet and isn't perfectly centered, it never escapes the opto path? I'd normally suspect the wall switch since, based on my understanding, it triggers the magnet's release of the ball...but it doesn't explain why it only happens when the ball isn't centered on the magnet when it grabs it. That is a visually noticeable occurence that happens each time it doesn't work properly

#3719 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I swapped the flipper opto board from the right to left and the left flipper worked so it's definitely a bad opto on the board.

make sure you have the magnet on there. they shipped mine w/o a magnet!

#3720 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Can someone explain the the lock process...

1. magnet stops ball.
2. magnet releases ball.
3. ball rolls away from magnet.
4. magnet turns back on and pulls ball back up to the magnet and then turns off allowing the ball to roll past the magnet into the lock.

Your setup is never going to work good because the ball needs to roll on a smooth surface. The magnet core is magnetized and should have a wood separation so the ball doesn't stick to the core. You will need to repair the hole and then fix the surface so its smooth as glass. When yours works its just luck and will never be 100%.

#3721 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

1. magnet stops ball.
2. magnet releases ball.
3. ball rolls away from magnet.
4. magnet turns back on and pulls ball back up to the magnet and then turns off allowing the ball to roll past the magnet into the lock.
Your setup is never going to work good because the ball needs to roll on a smooth surface. The magnet core is magnetized and should have a wood separation so the ball doesn't stick to the core. You will need to repair the hole and then fix the surface so its smooth as glass. When yours works its just luck and will never be 100%.

I appreciate the advice. If I'm interrepting your response correctly, you believe that the issue isn't the wall switch or the optos, its the mere fact that the ball is getting stuck on the magnet because the core is exposed? It does make sense that the problem isn't with the surface (i.e. if it's smooth), but I wasn't sure if it's the magnet or the lack of the proper trigger for the game to release the ball from the magnet. It works about 50% of the time, which is strange.

#3722 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I appreciate the advice. If I'm interrepting your response correctly, you believe that the issue isn't the wall switch or the optos, its the mere fact that the ball is getting stuck on the magnet because the core is exposed? It does make sense that the problem isn't with the surface (i.e. if it's smooth), but I wasn't sure if it's the magnet or the lack of the proper trigger for the game to release the ball from the magnet. It works about 50% of the time, which is strange.

As GRUMPY said, your setup is completely wrong for how these parts are intended to work. Stern magnets are meant to be exposed directly to the ball, so they can release cleanly when they power off. Aside from whatever kinks there may be in the surface in that area on your game, the magnet in Shadow is intended to have a half inch of wood between it and the ball. Even if it doesn't demagnetize completely like Sterns, the wood buffer allows the ball to disengage properly. By sitting on the magnet directly, it's not operating as designed, so it isn't surprising that you have inconsistent results.

#3723 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

you believe that the issue isn't the wall switch or the optos

Optos turn on magnet. Wall switch tells the CPU to continue with the sequence of operation, which is all done by timing not the optos. This is why if you have dents in the surface or P/F incline not set properly it will drop the ball.

#3724 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Aside from pinball, I also collect original vintage movie posters, I go for Noir or 50's Sci-Fi. I picked this up today to accompany the pin, very rare from the 1940's:

These aren't Shadow, but sharing anyway...

like this one the blob i ve forgotten this movie!!

#3725 2 years ago

Hey guys,

Having an issue where the yellow paddle on the battle field is constantly firing once the ball enters the upper play field. I'm sure there is a switch that is stuck to close up there making it think the paddle has just been hit by the ball. Any helpful tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Craig

#3726 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Hey guys,
Having an issue where the yellow paddle on the battle field is constantly firing once the ball enters the upper play field. I'm sure there is a switch that is stuck to close up there making it think the paddle has just been hit by the ball. Any helpful tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Craig

Check the opto switch on the battlefield. When the opto path is blocked, it fires the coil.

It sounds like the opto may be dirty or possibly a loose wire/solder at the opto.

#3727 2 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

Check the opto switch on the battlefield. When the opto path is blocked, it fires the coil.
It sounds like the opto may be dirty or possibly a loose wire/solder at the opto.

Thank you. Will check that now. -- Craig

#3728 2 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

As GRUMPY said, your setup is completely wrong for how these parts are intended to work. Stern magnets are meant to be exposed directly to the ball, so they can release cleanly when they power off. Aside from whatever kinks there may be in the surface in that area on your game, the magnet in Shadow is intended to have a half inch of wood between it and the ball. Even if it doesn't demagnetize completely like Sterns, the wood buffer allows the ball to disengage properly. By sitting on the magnet directly, it's not operating as designed, so it isn't surprising that you have inconsistent results.

I really appreciate the guidance and will embark on fixing the playfield..even though I have zero experience doing anything like this. A few questions from folks who have performed this fix:

- Has anyone considered using a wood dowel instead of something like JB Qwikweld? I would think that would be stronger than a filler and could definitely be similarly sanded smooth

- Would it be possible to use a stern magnet? (i.e. one designed to sit flush)

I have found the following repair thread link: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-sanctum-repair-updated...but I'd appreciate others as well if you know where to find them!

#3729 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Has anyone considered using a wood dowel instead of something like JB Qwikweld?

Most damage is not as extensive as yours so most use a filler, but a hardwood dowel is a good way to repair this. Glue it in with a epoxy adhesive and sand smooth. Paint to match or use the premade sticker.

Quoted from per3per3:Would it be possible to use a stern magnet? (i.e. one designed to sit flush)

Why would you not use the correct parts.

#3730 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Most damage is not as extensive as yours so most use a filler, but a hardwood dowel is a good way to repair this. Glue it in with a epoxy adhesive and sand smooth. Paint to match or use the premade sticker.

Why would you not use the correct parts.

With regards to the Stern magnet, I meant if I didn't choose to repair it correctly and went instead with a magnet designed to make physical contact with the ball

#3731 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I meant if I didn't choose to repair it correctly

I wouldn't, your resale value depends on it.

#3732 2 years ago

Make sure the wall drop switch is activated by the wall itself and not anything else.

#3733 2 years ago

Hey

What does switch #35 do in gameplay?

Just below KHAN vuk, inside black rubber.

Just saw it, and newer aimed for it..

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#3734 2 years ago

It just plays an explosive sound as far as I know.

#3735 2 years ago

Hehe- ok.

#3736 2 years ago

I have a brand new set of Shadow back box decals - $60 plus shipping.

#3737 2 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

I'd be down for those two plastics if you can find enough other people interested in the rest. It's just not worth it to me to buy the whole set. My big plastic is only missing the tip of that white section and the other plastic is a ways in the back. With some red bulbs in there it's hard to even tell see that it's missing.

Speaking about plastics, I would need the big red one if anyone has it! (See attached) also if anyone has 2 crank arm for divertor and one of the 2 hexagonal post that are located under the miniplayfield (or knows where to look for a replacement) it would help me so much!!!

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#3738 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

No, but this is why I used the Matrix products. There are so many different things to choose from. We will be able to try stuff quickly and then try something else until we like it. I'm thinking I should have worked a deal with Comet first.

Here is what I did with the grumpy mod. Used both the GI and battle field active
Lighting. Mounted a purple strip in far back of cab above battlefield for the GI. Once the battlefield is active this strip turns off and two 6SMD pads turn on which are mounted to back metal brackets.

Here is you tube link and some other pics posted too. As always, the camera exaggerates the lighting.

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#3739 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Here is what I did with the grumpy mod. Used both the GI and battle field active
Lighting. Mounted a purple strip in far back of cab above battlefield for the GI. Once the battlefield is active this strip turns off and two 6SMD pads turn on which are mounted to back metal brackets.
Here is you tube link and some other pics posted too. As always, the camera exaggerates the lighting.
» YouTube video

Looks really good, how did you attache the panels? Is there normally a screw there?

#3740 2 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Speaking about plastics, I would need the big red one if anyone has it! (See attached) also if anyone has 2 crank arm for divertor and one of the 2 hexagonal post that are located under the miniplayfield (or knows where to look for a replacement) it would help me so much!!!

The post would be called a male to female standoff or spacer. You can find them on a site like mouser or most hardware stores.

#3741 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Looks really good, how did you attache the panels? Is there normally a screw there?

Thanks. I didn't use any screws for the led panels. I started with trying to use the adhesive that comes with them but they wouldn't stay so I used some e6000 adhesive glue. This game is never leaving so wasn't bothered by this being more permanent. It's hard to find spots for the lighting that aren't too in your face or that don't require drilling thru paddle, etc

#3742 2 years ago

In screwing around with the battlefield today it seems like I've created a couple of issues.

1. The battle field paddle is not nearly as responsive anymore to "pushing back" on the ball when the ball hits it. I had to replace one of the optos today and thinking maybe it's an opto alignment deal but the optos register perfectly in switch test mode.

2. The back drop targets go down and stay down after the first time they are hit. I'm pretty sure that, previously, they wouldn't go down until you reached the number of shots required to beat the battlefield. Any ideas?

Thanks!
Craig

#3743 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

2. The back drop targets go down and stay down after the first time they are hit. I'm pretty sure that, previously, they wouldn't go down until you reached the number of shots required to beat the battlefield. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Craig

I had this problem before too, there is a build up of grime, you will just need to take the back droptargets down and clean them (I also added wax).

#3744 2 years ago

My battlefield targets needed both a good cleaning and new springs to work right.

#3745 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I had this problem before too, there is a build up of grime, you will just need to take the back droptargets down and clean them (I also added wax).

Thanks. I had the battlefield off for the first time today. I'm thinking i had to have done something while working on it. I will try cleaning them

#3746 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

With regards to the Stern magnet, I meant if I didn't choose to repair it correctly and went instead with a magnet designed to make physical contact with the ball

I'd suspect it wouldn't work right as the timing pulses and power probably takes into account that 1/2 inch of wood

use the correct parts

#3747 2 years ago
Quoted from BobC:

I'd suspect it wouldn't work right as the timing pulses and power probably takes into account that 1/2 inch of wood
use the correct parts

Yes, I believe magnet pull increases exponentially as distance decreases.

#3748 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

In screwing around with the battlefield today it seems like I've created a couple of issues.
2. The back drop targets go down and stay down after the first time they are hit. I'm pretty sure that, previously, they wouldn't go down until you reached the number of shots required to beat the battlefield. Any ideas?

Wanted to provide some more background and info on this issue:

Having an issue on my shadow Battlefield. I removed the battlefield yesterday to install some new LEDS and replace the mini kicker optos. At one point the whole battlefield assy fell into the back box. I'm worried I may have damaged something when this happened. Here is what is happening:

The back bank of drop targets are not coming back up after being initially hit. They should only stay down if you have reached the required number of target hits to defeat the battlefield. Here is what I know so far:

1. All of the 4 targets have this issue (so its not related to gunk mechanically preventing just 1or 2 from coming back up)
2. All targets raise just fine in solenoid test mode
3. During game play when the ball enters the battlefield you hear the back drop target bank "clicking" 3 or 4 times as if its trying to test/check something but nothing happens...so I'm wondering if it's testing for something here and then disabling the function that raises the drop targets because this test fails?

#3749 2 years ago

If they coil fires in test mode then it's probably switch related. Everything in pinball is controlled by switches. Test the switches for the individual drop targets or just test every switch in the game. Make sure each switch fires at the right time and not shorting.

#3750 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

At one point the whole battlefield assy fell into the back box.

Was it still attached by the hinge and just fell back into place hard or did it fall and land on something other than the mounting hardware?

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