(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

6 years ago



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  • 6,666 posts
  • 558 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by Graysonsdad
  • Topic is favorited by 193 Pinsiders

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There are 6666 posts in this topic. You are on page 74 of 134.
#3651 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Did you put Mylar on top of it? How about some details on how you applied the kwik wood?
Thanks!

Clean with Naptha, and tape off so that just the damaged area is exposed.
Apply the Kwikwood and smooth with a new razor blade leaving a hair more than needed.
Sand until smooth and level with the playfield. I used 320, 400, and 600.
Apply new decal.

I'm sure this isn't the proper way to do it, but it was the way I did it.

#3652 2 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Yes, basically....Im testing a tweak to make them a bit better.
If someone has the color code for the grey, Id love to also offer Grey Framing of the circle.
One would still need to level the play field, if it has a divot.

I'm definitely interested once they're ready!

#3653 2 years ago

Hey everyone.

I've had my Shadow for about a week and I've noticed two problems.

1) The left ramp switch is very inconsistent. I bent it a bit to trigger more, but now the ball sometimes gets stuck and it still doesn't trigger every time. I've read this is a common problem and the solution is to get a longer switch. Anyone have any other thoughts?

2) The left loop is also inconsistent (triggers probably 90% of the time).

I'm also thinking about rebuilding the flippers. The spring that pulls it back broke a bit on one. I was able to reattach, but it makes me think the flippers probably haven't been serviced in a while.

#3654 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Did you put Mylar on top of it? How about some details on how you applied the kwik wood?
Thanks!

per3per3 I used JB weld epoxy but it would be the same process with kwikwood. Here are my photos and notes http://benhusmann.tumblr.com/tagged/Sanctum

#3655 2 years ago
Quoted from TimMitchell:

Hey everyone.
I've had my Shadow for about a week and I've noticed two problems.
1) The left ramp switch is very inconsistent. I bent it a bit to trigger more, but now the ball sometimes gets stuck and it still doesn't trigger every time. I've read this is a common problem and the solution is to get a longer switch. Anyone have any other thoughts?
2) The left loop is also inconsistent (triggers probably 90% of the time).
I'm also thinking about rebuilding the flippers. The spring that pulls it back broke a bit on one. I was able to reattach, but it makes me think the flippers probably haven't been serviced in a while.

1) Buy and install the longer switch, it resolved this issue on my machine 100% (pretty sure its this one: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=379)
2) Mine did this too, just had to adjust the switch into the ball path

#3656 2 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

If someone has the color code for the grey,

Art in this thread i remember someone saying a grey from a craft store matches perfectly do some digging into this thread

#3657 2 years ago

Is it normal to get lots of airballs hitting the lower ramp? Thanks.

#3658 2 years ago
Quoted from waldo34:

Is it normal to get lots of airballs hitting the lower ramp? Thanks.

Not by hitting the ramps, but by missing and hitting the yellow targets. Try buying the reinforced yellow targets to minimize this.

#3659 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Not by hitting the ramps, but by missing and hitting the yellow targets. Try buying the reinforced yellow targets to minimize this.

I have the targets with the really thick backing. Hitting them head on often causes the air balls into the outlanes resulting in a drain.

#3660 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

I have the targets with the really thick backing. Hitting them head on often causes the air balls into the outlanes resulting in a drain.

Is the foam backing thick or do you mean the metal? If it's the foam it depends on the material, not the thickness.

Have you adjusted the targets correctly? Leaning slightly forward they work best.

#3661 2 years ago

This is the reinforced target. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-6R

My original targets were bent back. Being so close to the flippers they take a beating. I still get hops off the replaced reinforced targets but nothing over the flippers.

#3662 2 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Is the foam backing thick or do you mean the metal? If it's the foam it depends on the material, not the thickness.
Have you adjusted the targets correctly? Leaning slightly forward they work best.

Referring to thickness of the foam

#3663 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Referring to thickness of the foam

The backing doesn't make much of a difference, I tried. You need the reinforced targets to solve the problem.

#3664 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

The backing doesn't make much of a difference, I tried. You need the reinforced targets to solve the problem.

Or you can solve this problem on the cheap like I did. Just stuff a small(3/8 or 7/16) rubber ring behind the target down into the square hole in the playfield. Gives it just the right lean forward and after 100's of plays they have not moved.

#3665 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Or you can solve this problem on the cheap like I did. Just stuff a small(3/8 or 7/16) rubber ring behind the target down into the square hole in the playfield. Gives it just the right lean forward and after 100's of plays they have not moved.

Love to see a close up picture. Great idea!

#3666 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This is what comes in the kit.

Installed my Grumpy light mod today. Super easy and just as described.
I used a purple light strip on the metal deflector behind the drop targets for the added GI. There is some reflection of the mini-playfield, but I can live with it. If I decide to change that to something else, it should be easy.
Used another purple light strip on the back of the plastic enclosure in front of the kicker for the activated light.
I like it. You really notice when the extra light comes on and the mini-playfield is very lit up. Also, since the GI turns off at certain points, you really notice that.

Grumpy also packed the extra $2 that I accidentally sent him in with the mod. What a nice guy, he doesn't seem Grumpy at all!

#3667 2 years ago

Show pics. I just received mine

#3668 2 years ago

I just received mine, and will dive in this week.

#3669 2 years ago
Quoted from TimMitchell:

2) The left loop is also inconsistent (triggers probably 90% of the time).

I had this problem. Most likely the ball isn't activating one of the rollover switches. You need to know which rollover is not registering. Does the taxi animation play as the ball goes up the left side? If not, it's the left rollover that needs to be adjusted. If the taxi animation plays but the loop shot is not awarded as the ball comes down the other side then it's the right switch that needs fixing.

You can loosen the switch, move it over and re-tighten, or just bend the wire so that the ball will roll over it (the first option is recommended unless the switch is already as far over as it can go). Be careful: when I was dealing with this issue, I started by moving the switch the wrong way. The ball does not necessarily miss the switch on the side you expect.

#3670 2 years ago

So i just finished wiring up grumpy's battle field light mod. Wondering what everyone used for gi lighting and battle field ball in play lighting. Im about to place a order with comet. I never ordered from them before

#3671 2 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

What a nice guy, he doesn't seem Grumpy at all!

Your going to ruin my reputation.

#3672 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Sharing the custom message on my Shadow. Thought some of you would appreciate, especially the Aurich translite owners whose pin is based on the classic radio show as opposed to the Baldwin film.

Wow that's a lot of work!

#3673 2 years ago
Quoted from pinbuoy:

Wow that's a lot of work!

Have you seen photos of my Shadow? Trust me, a much larger portion of my time has been spent restoring it to it's current condition than editing the custom message

#3674 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Have you seen photos of my Shadow? Trust me, a much larger portion of my time has been spent restoring it to it's current condition than editing the custom message

I can imagine, but with your restoration, if you put the wrong rubber on a slingshot, you don't have to start the restoration all over again

I'm not sure I'd sign up for a 3 page custom message.

1 week later
#3675 2 years ago

Anybody have an extra transformer 5610-13953-00? I am buying a Show project that has pretty much everything electrical robbed from it.

#3676 2 years ago

So this question came up in another thread. When you hold the third flipper does a looped ball often wind up in the Kahn hole? Please post your answer and slope setting.

#3677 2 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

So this question came up in another thread. When you hold the third flipper does a looped ball often wind up in the Kahn hole? Please post your answer and slope setting.

Could be a good case for a poll. For what it's worth, my Shadow's upper flipper doesn't feed the hole. I've played about 3 other ones, and they didn't either.

#3678 2 years ago

What is your slope setting? Mine is set at 7.25 and a lifted third flipper does feed the Kahn hole whenever the loop is hit with any speed. It obviously has a major effect on the difficulty. For me it seems to make the game more balanced. I think without it setup the way mine is setup, I'd always shoot for the Shadow Loop. I don't think it really matters, but I'm honestly curious how it was designed. I'd be willing to write or email someone on the design team if that's at all possible.

#3679 2 years ago

I've owned my Shadow since brand new in the box and the upper flipper does not feed the Kahn shot when a loop shot is made to feed it. My game setting is back legs up all the way and front legs all the way down. I've played several proto or sample games of Shadow on location back in the day and the upper flipper played like mine. I've also played a couple Shadows like LPeters. When they're set up like that, it makes the other shots more difficult to hit. Especially when trying to do multiple inner loop combos in a row.

#3680 2 years ago

6.8 degrees. Never works.

#3681 2 years ago

Aside from pinball, I also collect original vintage movie posters, I go for Noir or 50's Sci-Fi. I picked this up today to accompany the pin, very rare from the 1940's:

Shadow (resized).jpeg

These aren't Shadow, but sharing anyway...

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IMG_2850 (resized).JPG

#3682 2 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

What is your slope setting? Mine is set at 7.25 and a lifted third flipper does feed the Kahn hole whenever the loop is hit with any speed. It obviously has a major effect on the difficulty. For me it seems to make the game more balanced. I think without it setup the way mine is setup, I'd always shoot for the Shadow Loop. I don't think it really matters, but I'm honestly curious how it was designed. I'd be willing to write or email someone on the design team if that's at all possible.

Mine sounds like it is set up like yours. It can feed it, but it has to be a super clean shadow loop shot with the ball already having speed. Even then it's not a guarantee.

#3683 2 years ago

Does anybody know of a source for the gun shooter assembly?

#3684 2 years ago

I'm finally joining the club later today! The machine is in pretty solid shape and includes the aurich art package, but does have sanctum wear that is luckily just cosmetic (the playfield does not require repair). I'll definitely be interested in the new sanctum decal from OLDPINGUY.

I've got a few questions:

- looks like most folks are using purple LEDs for the large mode inserts: which bulb types are recommended and why do folks recommend the comet purple over the cointaker purple?

- what color LEDs are people using for the battlefield inserts?

- what do people recommend (color scheme) for backbox lighting with the aurich translite? I'd love to see some pics of the lit translite and with the translite off to see

- what needs to be removed to properly install the sanctum decal?

THANKS!!

#3685 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

looks like most folks are using purple LEDs for the large mode inserts: which bulb types are recommended and why do folks recommend the comet purple over the cointaker purple?

I preferred the Cointaker super premium cool whites for my main mode lights. Also added gold mirror blades, newly brassed wire forms and trim. Got 15 games now and this one is still my favorite all around game.

Speaker lights get really saturated in the pics. Not near that bright.

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#3686 2 years ago

Comets purple passions are the best purple in LEDs, hands down not even worth debate.

#3687 2 years ago
Quoted from ZMeny:

Comets purple passions are the best purple in LEDs, hands down not even worth debate.

I definitely want to go purple for the main inserts. I checked comet's website and is the purple passion just their standard purple or something special? I don't see "purple passion" listed anywhere...just purple. Did you go with the 2 SMD bulb or something special?

#3688 2 years ago

The issues of airballs and ball getting trapped on left ramp has been addressed in this thread already. Replace foam on targets with two pieces of cut flipper rubber. Superglue then onto the metal sleeve were foam was. 30 second fix, no airballs. Also, make a switch extender out of a small piece of clear plastic using the extended switch. If you just replace the switch with the longer one it will still trap balls after weak shots. You need to get the switch further down the ramp.

#3689 2 years ago

https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ppc.htm

Purple Passion for the Only way to get a Darker Purple Insert.

Grab a few Op Max, for the GI in the Back.

Everything else, LED, wise your favorite vendor.
Just stay frosted in GI on this game.

(Hope to get to Battlefield MOD help this week)

#3690 2 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ppc.htm
Purple Passion for the Only way to get a Darker Purple Insert.
Grab a few Op Max, for the GI in the Back.
Everything else, LED, wise your favorite vendor.
Just stay frosted in GI on this game.
(Hope to get to Battlefield MOD help this week)

Thanks for the link! Any idea how many Op Max bulbs to get for the GI? I'm assuming their exclusive "sunlight white" is good or just cool white since they're brighter.

#3691 2 years ago

Same brightness.....Just color temperature.

One would match the rest of the GI, so either Cool White, or Sunlight for a Game.

(I personally only use Sunlight, unless its a black game like TZ, so this title is either white)

Id grab 6 bulbs, and know if I used 4, I had spares....Any Dark GI area, especially the back, where
a Manufacture usually only put one to 2 bulbs, will glow like there is 4-6 bulbs.

Twin 2835, Cointaker or Comet, Frosted, are still best for GI.
Strips for the back or Apron, cant hurt, but not needed, unless you play in the dark.

New Mod from earlier to light playfield, only when active, or strips placed there for a couple dollars, also
will light on all the time.
Frosted strips, and if in the back, get a dimmer switch....some reflection possible, or mount by paddle.

I hope to get some pics, and this up after GB MODS...just busy.

Just look at everyone elses pics, and decide the colors you want for main insert modes....its pretty straight forward color match lighting.

Biggest diff is the flashers....I went all Purple above the playfield in domes, but whatever the taste, go bright with a 10 SMD in the back ones, and its amazing!

#3692 2 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Same brightness.....Just color temperature.
One would match the rest of the GI, so either Cool White, or Sunlight for a Game.
(I personally only use Sunlight, unless its a black game like TZ, so this title is either white)
Id grab 6 bulbs, and know if I used 4, I had spares....Any Dark GI area, especially the back, where
a Manufacture usually only put one to 2 bulbs, will glow like there is 4-6 bulbs.
Twin 2835, Cointaker or Comet, Frosted, are still best for GI.
Strips for the back or Apron, cant hurt, but not needed, unless you play in the dark.
New Mod from earlier to light playfield, only when active, or strips placed there for a couple dollars, also
will light on all the time.
Frosted strips, and if in the back, get a dimmer switch....some reflection possible, or mount by paddle.
I hope to get some pics, and this up after GB MODS...just busy.
Just look at everyone elses pics, and decide the colors you want for main insert modes....its pretty straight forward color match lighting.
Biggest diff is the flashers....I went all Purple above the playfield in domes, but whatever the taste, go bright with a 10 SMD in the back ones, and its amazing!

I really appreciate the advice and also look forward to your improved sanctum decal!

#3693 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

I preferred the Cointaker super premium cool whites for my main mode lights. Also added gold mirror blades, newly brassed wire forms and trim. Got 15 games now and this one is still my favorite all around game.
Speaker lights get really saturated in the pics. Not near that bright.

Looks really nice. I like everything except for the purple GI. If I had the funds I'd make the switch to the gold/brass trim. It looks great on this game.

#3694 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballNewb:

Mine sounds like it is set up like yours. It can feed it, but it has to be a super clean shadow loop shot with the ball already having speed. Even then it's not a guarantee.

Welcome to the club. I recommend searching for some of my past posts. I've done a lot of experimenting with the led lights, and I provide example images and rationale. Ultimately you can go with a slick, action style with cool whites... Or a warm white art deco style akin to an old pulp mag. I went with the latter:

Here are two posts in particular. Let me know what you think:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/48#post-2860137
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/55#post-3130023

#3695 2 years ago

I like to use Comet 1smd bulbs in inserts and the brighter 2smd bulbs in gi. For inserts, I just color matched and used warm white for yellow and orange inserts. That looks best. Purple is often overdone imo. I used cool white in most of the gi with a little color below the slings. I added two spotlights on the slings and a purple dual bendie to light up the battlefield and back area. I also added leds to all star posts. All very easy to do with the Comet matrix connectors. You only need to solder in a few connectors and then plug everything together.

IMG_0324 (resized).JPG

#3696 2 years ago

played around with some back box lighting tonight using a big variety of bulbs. Thought it came out pretty nice. Did a mix of blue super premiums (no top) and frosted purple super premiums for the sky. used cool whites around the moon, red supers on scarf area, and warm whites on shadows body. Lit the lamp in bottom left corner with warm white super (no top) and used difused orange opmax for the light over buildings on left side.

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#3697 2 years ago

Does anybody have some spare plastics? I have several broken. Used is fine.

#3698 2 years ago

We need to start some group wanted lists for missing plastics. When you have enough people interested a full set is bought and split among those needed various plastics. I need these two...

TS Plastics (resized).jpg

#3699 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

played around with some back box lighting tonight using a big variety of bulbs.

I've tried various color in the backglass but keep going back frosted cool whites.

#3700 2 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

I've tried various color in the backglass but keep going back frosted cool whites.

I've also tried colors - i'm back to all frosted warm whites (cool probably looks better but i had warm in bulk), and two reds for the scarf and one green.

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