(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,672 posts
  • 558 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Stuieb84
  • Topic is favorited by 193 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,772 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20200120_162300 (resized).jpg
20200116_225418 (resized).jpg
20200116_225424 (resized).jpg
flip (resized).JPG
30003602 (resized).jpg
20200111_122439 (resized).jpg
20191216_121908 (resized).jpg
20200115_131749 (resized).jpg
shadow (resized).JPG
15790437858503837468966734949378 (resized).jpg
15790297376603489976081907527026 (resized).jpg
Shadow-LockArea-WithoutPlastics(but1guideRemoved) (resized).jpg
Shadow-LockArea-WithPlastics (resized).jpg
IMG_8567 (resized).jpeg
IMG_8565 (resized).jpeg
Shadoiw High Scoire Adjustments (resized).png

Topic index (key posts)

2 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 6672 posts in this topic. You are on page 73 of 134.
#3601 2 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Great mod, very cool!
Have you though about adding an adjustable pot so it is possible to set the time for different pinball uses? I'm thinking this could also work well with e.g. lighting up the Army of the Dead on LotR.

Thanks, I designed this for the one purpose only. I'm sure it could be used for many things but small changes would be necessary. If you want something for your pin just let me know and I could see if it would work.

#3602 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Thanks, I designed this for the one purpose only. I'm sure it could be used for many things but small changes would be necessary. If you want something for your pin just let me know and I could see if it would work.

Grumpy,

Would it be cheaper, easier, mostly cheaper to make a version that has no delay (and is 6volt only)? The reason I ask is that I was thinking about something very similar for the eject holes. Basically, the are lit by one led (color 1) normally via the GI and when the arrow in front of the eject is lit the hole switches to use by another led (color 2).

Just spit balling a color changing eject light mod.

#3603 2 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Have you tried the dimmer switch from Comet?

No, but this is why I used the Matrix products. There are so many different things to choose from. We will be able to try stuff quickly and then try something else until we like it. I'm thinking I should have worked a deal with Comet first.

#3604 2 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Grumpy,
Would it be cheaper, easier, mostly cheaper to make a version that has no delay (and is 6volt only)? The reason I ask is that I was thinking about something very similar for the eject holes. Basically, the are lit by one led (color 1) normally via the GI and when the arrow in front of the eject is lit the hole switches to use by another led (color 2).
Just spit balling a color changing eject light mod.

Very interesting idea, I will have to give this some more thought.

#3605 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I tried mounting the light strip to, above, over and over while in front of the metal strip in the back. Always the same results for me, it reflected off the battle field and in my eyes. No bueno!
I am going to try it again but I need to find a light diffuser sheet first. I think this would be the best way to do it, but I just need to find the right stuff to make it work.

Comet was producing a led strip with frosted white, that sits at a 45 degree angle to solve this. I remember Arthur discussing it, it's likely available. I'll investigate.

#3606 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I'll investigate.

Great, I'm a little busy right now. Let everyone know how it works.

#3607 2 years ago

Thanks for using my Matrix products!

Do reach out to Ryan and Janet.

I might recommend the frosted strip mounted
Behind the paddle on the metal bar.
Id like to order one, and I can test out brightness, as well as 45 degree lighting.

Lmk best way to order....pm???

Truly love and appreciate you making this!!!

#3608 2 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Thanks for using my Matrix products!

I think they are prefect for something like this.

Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Lmk best way to order....pm???

I sent you a PM, thanks.

#3609 2 years ago

Art, are you still involved with Comet.

#3610 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I think they are prefect for something like this.

I sent you a PM, thanks.

Thank you! Ill take care of and share back! Much appreciate it!

Quoted from jonesjb:

Art, are you still involved with Comet.

Happily retired.....but I miss creating new stuff!!

#3611 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I tried mounting the light strip to, above, over and over while in front of the metal strip in the back. Always the same results for me, it reflected off the battle field and in my eyes. No bueno!
I am going to try it again but I need to find a light diffuser sheet first. I think this would be the best way to do it, but I just need to find the right stuff to make it work.

grumpy
try a strip of white electric tape over the led strip!

#3612 2 years ago

Finally in the club, 10 hours of driving down only 1 more to go. Can't wait to get it set up and going.

20170303_153454 (resized).jpg

#3613 2 years ago
Quoted from waldo34:

Finally in the club, 10 hours of driving down only 1 more to go. Can't wait to get it set up and going.

Already updated your profile as an owner before you get it in the door!!

Congrats! Should be fun!

#3614 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I tried mounting the light strip to, above, over and over while in front of the metal strip in the back. Always the same results for me, it reflected off the battle field and in my eyes. No bueno!
I am going to try it again but I need to find a light diffuser sheet first. I think this would be the best way to do it, but I just need to find the right stuff to make it work.

They have frosted LED strips now too. I'm gonna orders few colors to see what they do.

http://www.cometpinball.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=10SMD6.3VSTRIP

#3615 2 years ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

They have frosted LED strips now too. I'm gonna orders few colors to see what they do.
http://www.cometpinball.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=10SMD6.3VSTRIP

add a dimming screw to your order to tweak it......

#3616 2 years ago

I tried a frosted w/ dimmer tonight. I still wasn't really happy with it. I'm going to try to rig up some custom LEDs in the paddle. It just really needs to be front lit.

#3617 2 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Already updated your profile

Helps to have a wife that doesn't mind the hobby road trip. Tomorrow I need to figure out the topper from eBay.

20170303_222807 (resized).jpg

#3618 2 years ago

I'm not sure others are going to want to go this extreme with illumination. This is two SMDs mounted to the paddle. I only had yellow and don't mind that look, but I will also be ordering white to compare. It's still a bit of a hack job in the picture.

IMG_2227[1] (resized).JPG

#3619 2 years ago
Quoted from waldo34:

Helps to have a wife that doesn't mind the hobby road trip. Tomorrow I need to figure out the topper from eBay.

This the one from a week or 2 ago?

#3620 2 years ago
Quoted from wdd1169:

Hello, my name is Duane and The Shadow is my first 90's game. I am used to the classic Ballys and Sterns as I have completely restored a couple. That being said I dont think I am a complete newb to pinball just to this one. Anyway, when I got the machine home it started acting up so I put it in switch edge test, when I pressed on the playfield a bunch of switches lit up. So I searched for a loose wire and found one which I think is for the center stand up target(#56). Can someone let me know if their target has 2 white/blue wires going to it? So I connected the wire turned on the machine and got the rows out error. So I figured I must have fried the diode and U20. Changed diode and U20. Machine booted and then fried the 10 opto board. Any Ideas what I screwed up? Thanks Duane

Switches going off while banging playfield sound like opto problems to me. Whenever you have problems like that, it is good to take inventory of which switches are working and which are not. For reference, here is a pic of mine. The center target does have two blue/white wires and two green.

IMG_0318 (resized).JPG

#3621 2 years ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

This the one from a week or 2 ago?

That's the one. Interesting topper in that I can't find out any information about it. Yet it looks professional. Was hoping to track down the recommended wiring for the light. I'll have to post a picture.

#3622 2 years ago
Quoted from waldo34:

That's the one. Interesting topper in that I can't find out any information about it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-toppers-in-the-works/page/2

#3623 2 years ago
Quoted from waldo34:

That's the one. Interesting topper in that I can't find out any information about it. Yet it looks professional. Was hoping to track down the recommended wiring for the light. I'll have to post a picture.

You definitely beat me out on it. Lost by a few dollars. Congrats.
From what I remember from the auction it should plug into the 12v.

#3624 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This is what comes in the kit.

Arrived today. Now I get to spend way too much time over thinking a comet order to hit the free shipping mark.
Thanks Grumpy!

#3625 2 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Switches going off while banging playfield sound like opto problems to me. Whenever you have problems like that, it is good to take inventory of which switches are working and which are not. For reference, here is a pic of mine. The center target does have two blue/white wires and two green.

Thanks Jawjaw. I definitely have an opto problem now. I ordered a new 10 opto board but don't want to put it in until I figure out what could have fried it. Any ideas? Can a bad diode cause Something like that?

Thanks again, Duane

#3626 2 years ago

My solution to battlefield illumination...

#3627 2 years ago

A few questions for the shadow owers. First what has everyone done about the left divertor right ramp switch?. I see some have installed long metal detent switchs that look stupied. I replaced with orignal part number and it gets stucks all the time.

Also where can i get a replacement kicker arm. Dont see it available anywhere. Its a square type. Mine has been rubbed down to nothing see picture. Its not square anymore.

Also im having a hard time with the battlefield. The kicker moves nicely in test mode. But during game play it moves slowly to the left. Is there a adjustment?

Also where do i get new set screws for the divertors ?

Thank u n jeremy. So close to finishing this game

20170301_194257_001 (resized).jpg

#3628 2 years ago

Just joined the club! Bought my first pinball this weekend. The Shadow is a game that is near and dear to my heart, I played a ton of it over the years as a kid at my local pizza place. I've been toying with the idea of getting on for years and finally decided to pull the trigger because there was a perfect spot for it in my billiard room.

#3629 2 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

A few questions for the shadow owers. First what has everyone done about the left divertor right ramp switch?. I see some have installed long metal detent switchs that look stupied. I replaced with orignal part number and it gets stucks all the time.
Also where can i get a replacement kicker arm. Dont see it available anywhere. Its a square type. Mine has been rubbed down to nothing see picture. Its not square anymore.
Also im having a hard time with the battlefield. The kicker moves nicely in test mode. But during game play it moves slowly to the left. Is there a adjustment?
Also where do i get new set screws for the divertors ?
Thank u n jeremy. So close to finishing this game

For the left diverter, use a straight switch, but just use the shorter one.

From memory, I think this is the one, but double check:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-SMSW

#3630 2 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

My solution to battlefield illumination...
» YouTube video

Are the SMDs flush with the front of the paddle? I'm not understanding how you mounted these to the paddle without creating a funky front surface that the ball will hit. It looks great. Appreciate the input. -- Craig

#3631 2 years ago
Quoted from waldo34:

Finally in the club, 10 hours of driving down only 1 more to go. Can't wait to get it set up and going.

Awesome. Congrats!

#3632 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Are the SMDs flush with the front of the paddle? I'm not understanding how you mounted these to the paddle without creating a funky front surface that the ball will hit. It looks great. Appreciate the input. -- Craig

Sorry, look like they are mounted to the back of the paddle. Guess the light shines through the plastic ok?

#3633 2 years ago
Quoted from wdd1169:

Thanks Jawjaw. I definitely have an opto problem now. I ordered a new 10 opto board but don't want to put it in until I figure out what could have fried it. Any ideas? Can a bad diode cause Something like that?
Thanks again, Duane

I'm not real knowledgeable in these areas. You might want to post that question outside this topic since it is a more specific question on what happened to your opto board. Is the board repairable? You could always try swapping opto board in another pin and see if the board is really the issue. Check basics like every fuse, burnt connectors, battery damage, etc. Once you narrow the problem down it will be easier to diagnose.

#3634 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Sorry, look like they are mounted to the back of the paddle. Guess the light shines through the plastic ok?

The LEDs are mounted to the back, but I was bold (or dumb) enough to drill holes through the paddle. I haven't noticed any difference in the functionality. I had also considered filling with a clear silicone, but I don't think that will be necessary.

PS: Before doing the drilling, I made sure the replacement paddles were in stock.

#3635 2 years ago

Received the battlefield light mod from grumpy on Friday and got it installed on Saturday. Tried a few light placement combinations and bulbs. Ended up mounting to the posts near the optic sensors and used some yellow lights. I originally wanted to mount the lamp socket where the screws hold the optical sensors, but there wasn't enough clearance for that. However, you might be able to do so with a flexible LED, not 100% sure though. Here are before and after shots. The before shot I did alter the brightness as my camera made it appear brighter than it is to the naked eye. The after pic is unaltered.

As far as the mod goes, it obviously works just fine and don't have any complaints because I know what it was designed to do. If I could get the "ultimate" battlefield light mod, it would work pretty much the same, but wouldn't require the paddle to move before the lights come on. Small nit-pic I realize. But, when people that don't know the game play it they don't realize what is happening (the battle field starting up) they tend to not move the paddle and sometimes don't even see the ball drain past the paddle. Having the battlefield light up when it becomes active would really help with the context.

Overall, I have to give the mod a big thumbs-up because it does illuminate the battlefield in the really nice way!

battlefield_light (resized).jpg

battlefield_no_light (resized).jpg

#3636 2 years ago

Topper and LEDs look great. Now I need allot of practice 320m best so far.

20170307_123112 (resized).jpg

#3637 2 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Received the battlefield light mod from grumpy on Friday and got it installed on Saturday. Tried a few light placement combinations and bulbs. Ended up mounting to the posts near the optic sensors and used some yellow lights. I originally wanted to mount the lamp socket where the screws hold the optical sensors, but there wasn't enough clearance for that. However, you might be able to do so with a flexible LED, not 100% sure though. Here are before and after shots. The before shot I did alter the brightness as my camera made it appear brighter than it is to the naked eye. The after pic is unaltered.
As far as the mod goes, it obviously works just fine and don't have any complaints because I know what it was designed to do. If I could get the "ultimate" battlefield light mod, it would work pretty much the same, but wouldn't require the paddle to move before the lights come on. Small nit-pic I realize. But, when people that don't know the game play it they don't realize what is happening (the battle field starting up) they tend to not move the paddle and sometimes don't even see the ball drain past the paddle. Having the battlefield light up when it becomes active would really help with the context.
Overall, I have to give the mod a big thumbs-up because it does illuminate the battlefield in the really nice way!

Hmm so you went spot lights instead of strips

#3638 2 years ago

The

Quoted from lpeters82:My solution to battlefield illumination...
» YouTube video

That looks great! Can you do another video with the ball and paddle in action?

#3639 2 years ago

What type of gun is used as the model for this.....???

#3640 2 years ago
Quoted from Da_Topper:

The

That looks great! Can you do another video with the ball and paddle in action?

I'll try to find a cameraman.

#3641 2 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

What type of gun is used as the model for this.....???

You mean the gun handle shooter? It's a customized .45 Win Mag LAR Grizzly.

#3642 2 years ago

What's up Shadow folk...I'm looking to join the club in 2-3 weeks once I get my STTNG sold and wanted some advice around sanctum restoration/touch-ups. The machine is great other than wear around the sanctum area which does not impact gameplay...so that's good! On this machine, the magnet was modified to sit flush with the playfield and looks like the way Stern does their magnets. There is some solid wear in the area and there was previously a sanctum overlay sticker installed but it melted given the magnet's direct contact to it.
I'm thinking the area can be touched up with grey paint that hopefully matches the color of the grey around the area and then a new overlay sticker (he has one) could be laid down with a hole cut out of it where the magnet is. Then, if necessary, a piece of Mylar could be laid on top.

Does this sound like the right approach? Any advice as to how to color match (or at least come close) the grey paint color in the sanctum area? I'm not an artist and really don't do touch-ups.

Thanks!

#3643 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

What's up Shadow folk...I'm looking to join the club in 2-3 weeks once I get my STTNG sold and wanted some advice around sanctum restoration/touch-ups. The machine is great other than wear around the sanctum area which does not impact gameplay...so that's good! On this machine, the magnet was modified to sit flush with the playfield and looks like the way Stern does their magnets. There is some solid wear in the area and there was previously a sanctum overlay sticker installed but it melted given the magnet's direct contact to it.
I'm thinking the area can be touched up with grey paint that hopefully matches the color of the grey around the area and then a new overlay sticker (he has one) could be laid down with a hole cut out of it where the magnet is. Then, if necessary, a piece of Mylar could be laid on top.
Does this sound like the right approach? Any advice as to how to color match (or at least come close) the grey paint color in the sanctum area? I'm not an artist and really don't do touch-ups.
Thanks!

One point of clarification: the melted sanctum overlay sticker has since been successfully removed. There is no mylar on the playfield in that area.

#3644 2 years ago

I used Kwik Wood and a decal.

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

#3645 2 years ago
Quoted from onemoresean:

I used Kwik Wood and a decal.

Did you put Mylar on top of it? How about some details on how you applied the kwik wood?

Thanks!

#3646 2 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

You mean the gun handle shooter? It's a customized .45 Win Mag LAR Grizzly.

Thank you!

I have these sanctum dot decals in production finally...I trust.....I hope to post them available shortly.

#3647 2 years ago

Do you have them available without the dot? How do you apply them? Is it basically just sticking them on and being done with it?

#3648 2 years ago

Does someone have a part number for the upper playfield mini kicker coil stop (that goes with the AE-25-1000 coil)?

And is there a good place to look up this information? I looked at the shadow manual and it tells me the coil number, but not the coil stop part, at least from what I see.

#3649 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Did you put Mylar on top of it? How about some details on how you applied the kwik wood?
Thanks!

I posted some advice earlier, try searching for my threads

#3650 2 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Do you have them available without the dot? How do you apply them? Is it basically just sticking them on and being done with it?

Yes, basically....Im testing a tweak to make them a bit better.

If someone has the color code for the grey, Id love to also offer Grey Framing of the circle.

One would still need to level the play field, if it has a divot.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 159.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 229.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
From: $ 27.00
Boards
KAHR.US Circuits
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
There are 6672 posts in this topic. You are on page 73 of 134.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside