(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

6 years ago



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  • 6,672 posts
  • 558 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Stuieb84
  • Topic is favorited by 193 Pinsiders

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There are 6672 posts in this topic. You are on page 69 of 134.
#3401 3 years ago

I didnt play TS for a while and now the miniplayfield kicker moves slightly slower from right to left. From left to right moves fine. Sometimes the miniplayfield test gives an error. I can hear a different sound when the kicker moves, kind of fatiguing. Does it maybe need some grease?

Edit: I moved the mech right and left several times and now it works and test fine. Still, the movement to the left is not completely smooth. i read on the manual not to grease the 4 bronze bushings, rack and pinion, but it looks like my problem is exactly there. The mech just do not moves completely freely. To grease or not to grease? If yes, what shall I use?

Edit2: the more I play around with it, the more inconsistent it becomes. I do not receive any error and the test is passed successfully, but the kicker moves definitely slower than before, sometimes in both directions. May it be a power issue? Maybe the motor failing?

#3402 3 years ago
Quoted from Circus_Animal:

It screws into the bottom of the Battlefield. There are holes for the screws in the bracket that holds the drop target assembly. You'll notice that the steel rail around the orbit has a cutout; this is where the plastic sits once the Battlefield is lowered.
Sorry for no photos, I can't find my USB cable.

Here is a pic of the shield attached. I was just working on the battlefield replacing the drop target springs so figured I would snap a pic. The new springs totally fixed my targets not going down on hard hits. Happy about that.

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#3403 3 years ago

I may look at a project Shadow in the next week or so. Apparently it was a parts game. Which parts should I be concerned about that are unobtainable?

#3404 3 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

I may look at a project Shadow in the next week or so. Apparently it was a parts game. Which parts should I be concerned about that are unobtainable?

The rings are probably the biggest thing. They don't come up for sale often and when they do they're ridiculously expensive. Mongol figurines (the game should have three) are available but costly (around $70 a set from memory). Diverters are another game-specific part that I assume are hard to come by, but haven't had to try finding them myself so not really sure how rare they are. Wall targets and Battlefield kicker are also game-specific, but not that rare or expensive.

#3405 3 years ago
Quoted from Circus_Animal:

The rings are probably the biggest thing.

Not according to Rick it isn't: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-phurba-the-shadow-exact-replicas#post-2582345

They are "in process"...but it's a veeeeery long process obviously.

#3406 3 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

Which parts should I be concerned about that are unobtainable

The wireform habitrails also. Better than new metal ramps are available, but not the wireforms.
There were repo plastics available, but seem to be maybe sold out now.

Also, the crank arms and mechanisms below the playfield that make the phurba diverters work.

#3407 3 years ago

Looking to purchase the following plastics if anyone has an extra. I also need Mongols.

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#3408 3 years ago

Alternative translight came in the mail today. It's beautiful with just cool whites.
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#3409 3 years ago

I just added the alt translite too.
I used comet twin 2835 frosted sunlight white, green, red, and passion purples in the corners.

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#3410 3 years ago

Having a heckuva time trying to find the right slope for my machine to play fast yet still be able to make the upper diverter ramp. I currently have the playfield bubble level touching the fourth line from the bottom. The manual says 6.5 is touching the second line from the bottom. Where I'm currently at has an incline of about 6 near the Sanctum entrance, 6.8 at the lower diverter ramp and about 7.8 in between the slings (using the Sears digital bubble level that most have recommended, not some phone app). It plays fine but only the best shots make the upper diverter. I raised the front up to being at the 6.5 level and it played way too slow.

I've read this thread for other's who had this issue, have read Vid's guide for flipper rebuilds to be sure mine are as they should be (I've re-done all of my machines and they feel correct) waxed the playfield and rebuilt the flippers with completely new mechanisms for the two lower flippers and they feel strong enough since I'm not trying to bust through the Sanctum wall. They always make all other shots reliably enough, but even at my current slope the game can still feel a bit floaty--so when I've tried anything approaching the 6.5 area--like 7.0 between the slings--it gets even worse with the floaty game play. My scores have been fine at all levels so I guess I just gotta choose a level and stick with it. It's just weird that this game and TSPP have seemed to give me a lot of fits for leveling whereas my other games set up at 6.8 in the middle of the playfield and play great with minimal fuss beyond the first 10 minutes of leveling them.

#3411 3 years ago

Aurich translite tip: use a Comet warm slow blinker in the bottom left behind the lamp for a cool effect.

#3412 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

in the bottom right behind the lamp

Did you mean left instead of right?

#3413 3 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Did you mean left instead of right?

Yes, sorry thanks! I meant left (edited).

12
#3414 3 years ago

Just replaced Aurichs great translite with this beauty. Love it, think this one will stay!

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#3415 3 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Just replaced Aurichs great translite with this beauty. Love it, think this one will stay!

Beautiful. Where can I get one of these?

#3416 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Beautiful. Where can I get one of these?

Ditto. Wouldn't mind have a few different options for the translite. Any info would be great! Thanks!

#3417 3 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Just replaced Aurichs great translite with this beauty. Love it, think this one will stay!

This is the best of the bunch for sure. Looks great.

Only wish the lettering was in green to match the lettering on the apron.

#3418 3 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Just replaced Aurichs great translite with this beauty. Love it, think this one will stay!

That's phenomenal!

#3419 3 years ago

Yeah, where do I get that one. It's awesome.

#3420 3 years ago

I added the movie phurba.
I used double sided tape on the glass trim to keep it in place.

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#3421 3 years ago

I have mine mounted on the backbox

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#3422 3 years ago
Quoted from matt_adams:

I have mine mounted on the backbox

I really like the way it looks as though Mr. Baldwin is being stabbed in the head!

10
#3423 3 years ago

I finally chased the last gremlin from my Shadow tonight. Since I've had the game, there's been one strand of GI in the back of the play field that has either flickered, been dim, or just been out. So I started with the usual and checked the connectors and headers and found them both burnt or scorched. I replaced them both and that fixed the being consistently out issue but they were still variably dim or occasionally flickerd.

I then turned my focus to the board. I toned the path and checked the triacs and transistors and it was still stumping me.

Last night I had a "break" through when I resorted to a little manual intervention to figure it out. The issue got better when I pressed on the connectors. I knew they were seated properly and in good shape so paid close attention to what the pressure was really doing. It was flexing the board. Which in turn flexed the trace enough to connect. There was a short in it after all.

When I toned it with my dmm out of the game, I was putting just enough pressure along with gravitys effect of the board laying flat. When the board went back in the game the standoffs would change it just enough to fail.

A simple jumper off the header pin to the triac fixed it.

It feels good to get these nagging problems knocked out.

#3424 3 years ago
Quoted from jedimastermatt:

I finally chased the last gremlin from my Shadow tonight. Since I've had the game, there's been one strand of GI in the back of the play field that has either flickered, been dim, or just been out. So I started with the usual and checked the connectors and headers and found them both burnt or scorched. I replaced them both and that fixed the being consistently out issue but they were still variably dim or occasionally flickerd.
I then turned my focus to the board. I toned the path and checked the triacs and transistors and it was still stumping me.
Last night I had a "break" through when I resorted to a little manual intervention to figure it out. The issue got better when I pressed on the connectors. I knew they were seated properly and in good shape so paid close attention to what the pressure was really doing. It was flexing the board. Which in turn flexed the trace enough to connect. There was a short in it after all.
When I toned it with my dmm out of the game, I was putting just enough pressure along with gravitys effect of the board laying flat. When the board went back in the game the standoffs would change it just enough to fail.
A simple jumper off the header pin to the triac fixed it.
It feels good to get these nagging problems knocked out.

Nice. I hate those kind of problems. I can't stand when one simple bulb is out. Glad you got it fixed.

#3425 3 years ago

Sharing the custom message on my Shadow. Thought some of you would appreciate, especially the Aurich translite owners whose pin is based on the classic radio show as opposed to the Baldwin film.

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#3426 3 years ago

I cleaned up the lockdown bar assembly and putting new decals on it. Can anyone post a pic or tell me what the stickers on the left and right say? I have the "Install 5 Balls" and "hazard" decals figured out. Thanks!

#3427 3 years ago

Original machine, bought new:
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Inspection Tag 1.5 in. wide:
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#3428 3 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

I cleaned up the lockdown bar assembly and putting new decals on it. Can anyone post a pic or tell me what the stickers on the left and right say? I have the "Install 5 Balls" and "hazard" decals figured out. Thanks!

How about a lock down bar receiver finisher from Titan Pinball?

https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=133

#3429 3 years ago

Who Is Balcazar? He also inspected my machine!

#3430 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Who Is Balcazar? He also inspected my machine!

Must've been one of the veteran techs working for the company back then. Wonder if he's a pinhead? Or she?

#3431 3 years ago

Hello Shadow owners. I just put some used sling plastics on eBay if anyone needs any. Here is the link:

ebay.com link

#3432 3 years ago

Just posted som mechanical Diverters for auction.

ebay.com link

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#3433 3 years ago

A friend of mine found this at a car boot sale for £1, should make a nice topper with a few lights

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#3434 3 years ago

When I lock the thrid ball for shadow multiball, the video animation starts.. but the gate is not releasing the balls, so the machine tries to search the balls over and over. What to do?

The three switches of the lock area work fine in test, as well as the coil for the lock gate.

#3435 3 years ago

Ok found out. Third switch actuator not aligned correctly was not being pushed by the third ball.

#3436 3 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Just replaced Aurichs great translite with this beauty. Love it, think this one will stay!

That is great!! I Would buy it! Where did you take it??

Anyway I need your help guys, I have to replace the attached plastic on my pin, can anyone suggest me which rivets I have to buy to fix it? Or better, since rivets are a pain to put and remove, there are any alternatives? Thanks!

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#3437 3 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Anyway I need your help guys, I have to replace the attached plastic on my pin, can anyone suggest me which rivets I have to buy to fix it? Or better, since rivets are a pain to put and remove, there are any alternatives? Thanks!

I use the original 1/8" oval headed rivets they used in the factory. Before I had one of those huge riveting presses I just used simple little oval head screws secured with lock washers or locktite. Always worked well for me.

#3438 3 years ago

the yellow drop target (to the miniplayfield) is not raising anymore during gameplay.

In coil test, it raises and drops fine. But when I start a game, if it starts dropped, I can see it kind of moving (maybe trying to furtheerly dropping?), but not raising. I keep playing, going to the miniplayfield, doing all sort of things, but the yellow drop target do not stand up anymore.

#3439 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

the yellow drop target (to the miniplayfield) is not raising anymore during gameplay.
In coil test, it raises and drops fine. But when I start a game, if it starts dropped, I can see it kind of moving (maybe trying to furtheerly dropping?), but not raising. I keep playing, going to the miniplayfield, doing all sort of things, but the yellow drop target do not stand up anymore.

You might check the switch on that drop target. Make sure it's working.

#3440 3 years ago

I have this exact same problem.

The yellow drop target will raise and lower in test, but on startup it seems like it tries to raise 3 times then gives up.

Quoted from Luppin:

the yellow drop target (to the miniplayfield) is not raising anymore during gameplay.
In coil test, it raises and drops fine. But when I start a game, if it starts dropped, I can see it kind of moving (maybe trying to furtheerly dropping?), but not raising. I keep playing, going to the miniplayfield, doing all sort of things, but the yellow drop target do not stand up anymore.

#3441 3 years ago

Has anyone done the wireforms anything other than brass? I got mine re-brassed, but have not put them back in yet. I'd love to see options of other plating colors (like black nickel) or powdercoat color options.

#3442 3 years ago
Quoted from damadczar:

I have this exact same problem.
The yellow drop target will raise and lower in test, but on startup it seems like it tries to raise 3 times then gives up.

Count me in on this problem too, sometimes it works great, other times target won't reset. Do you hear anything when it's trying to reset? Mine makes a kind of pulsing sound

#3443 3 years ago
Quoted from Bwilson:

You might check the switch on that drop target. Make sure it's working.

Correct. It depends from the switch. My switch works electronically actually fine, the problem is that the drop target sometimes (recently, always) do not push down the switch arm. See picture below. Its becuase I installed it on inner side by mistake. It goes on the outside.

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#3444 3 years ago

I followed vid's guide to fix the SANCTUM drop target (red). Excellent one. The target raises and drops fine in test mode. But during gameplay it does not behave correctly (raising and dropping at wrong times). I guess my problem is with the switch action, relatively to the bracket pushing the switch arm. The switch arm is bent and I also do not understand how it is supposed to work relative to the bracket that activate it. When the target is up, is the bracket supposed to fall down all the way, activating the switch? So it the switch "normally on"? Or more probably is the switch arm supposed to "support" the (light) weight of the bracket, and only when heavily pushed down by the dropping target activating the contact?

#3445 3 years ago

found this thread and realized I have the same problem. It's about the shape of the switch arm! It's not supposed to touch the bracket and support it at all! Do you have any pics of the arm and how it is supposed to rest?

#3446 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Do you have any pics of the arm and how it is supposed to rest?

When the Sanctum drop target is up the switch should be open. When the drop target is down the switch should close and activate.

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#3447 3 years ago

Looks great next to JD!

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#3448 3 years ago
Quoted from Bwilson:

When the Sanctum drop target is up the switch should be open. When the drop target is down the switch should close and activate.

Thanks a lot. Perfect pictures worthed a thousand words. All sorted now.
Actually I read other threads and it looks quite a few people could not figure out how the switch arm is supposed to work. I think this info should be added to the Vid's guide on how to rebuild the sanctum drop target.

#3449 3 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

I use the original 1/8" oval headed rivets they used in the factory. Before I had one of those huge riveting presses I just used simple little oval head screws secured with lock washers or locktite. Always worked well for me.

Thanks for the answer! Another question rivets on the clear plastics under the 2 diverter ramps are of the same size??

#3450 3 years ago

Hello again guys, I was considering to buy a policarbonate (lexan) sheet to make a playfield protector for my shadow. However to cut it properly with a laser cutter i would need a CAD/pdf file with the exact measurement of the playfield, have someone already done this before and can provide it to me?? Thank you in advance!!!

PS Somone else has a playfield protector on this pin? How is it??

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