The Shadow Club

Not really available. I ended up needing one when drilling out a stripped Allen screw went badly. I found one come up on Ebay by chance. They appear now and again, but I could not find them in stock at a retailer. Good luck, I hate those things now!

You are looking for this:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18983

Rings?

Where to get? Impossible? When will PPS get someone to reproduce? In this day and age of cheap manufacturing and cheap costume jewelry, someone should be able to produce some metal ones as replacements.

I found a crack in one of my rings and the jewel popped out while shopping out my machine. Pretty sure I could super Glue it, but if anyone has one or two laying around, PM me.

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I can stop bugging the local Pinsiders now that I got a Shadow. I put two spotlights on the playfield and one on the Battlefield. The cone that goes on the spotlight was too much of a distraction for me on the Battlefield, so after trying a bunch of colors I went with a flexible/bendie LED in red. My reasoning for using red is probably way over the top, but it's kinda to create a mood like in a stage production. Like if you were watching a performance of the Shadow in an old-time theater, they might cast red lighting to indicate a Battlefield scene.

I like how it really serves to cut off the Battlefield and draw attention to it as being completely separate and the fact that I don't notice the light source at all. Sure I lose the color of the art there, but the design is still visible and the orange inserts are still a bit of a contrast. I had a plain warm white light in the spot light but it just looked too plain--there wasn't much as far as interesting art to be featured up there. Not pictured is the Kenner Thunder cab topper.

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I like it. The red also creates unity with the scarf. Did you try it with green? Might work with like the eerie green eye in the old radio shows.

I don't have a green bendie. I tried some kind of extra bright green LED and it didn't look as appropriate for the art deco style. I think the green was too light compared to Shadow's green. Also, a normal bulb up there is kinda distracting. With the bendie, it lays flat so I barely notice it. I went through the entire thread over the past month and your LED layout is the kind of style I'm looking to get. My machine came with bright natural white LED's under the slings and near the flippers which brought out the blue and purple there, but like you've said in your posts, warm white is more common for an art deco style. For now, I only have incandescents available to have a warm white look in those areas.

Your lit battlefield is nice, but when is someone gonna figure out how to only light the upper playfield when it is active?

A mod like that would probably sell to almost everyone who owns a Shadow.

Before doing this, I was looking for a thin, magnetic, motion-activated LED light strip. I found a few for $10 on Amazon that are about 5 inches wide and an inch deep that might've fit either at the front or to the right of the Battlefield, but it probably wouldn't have worked reliably enough.

amazon.com link »

Thoughts on that one?

Thanks for sharing the pics. I'm actually interested in the ring lighting. Did you do that or did you get it that way? I still have the original, tiny and weak incandescents in there and I need to figure out something else. The ones on yours look pretty bright and even.

That would be very cool!

I have green under the battlefield leaking through the cracks, but I really like the red up top and may give it a try. I worry that it may be too Christmasy, so I may try red up top and blue or purple underneath.

It came that way. I don't know of anything special that was done to it--it lights up normal red, but looks blown out in the pictures.

Maybe just white? Not sure which temperature, but two different colors back there might not look right.

An interesting idea for sure. It's cheap enough to give it a shot.

There has gotta be someone clever enough to figure out how to work something out.

I don't really know much about electronics but when the battlefield motor is activated could you tap into the 20v, run it through a 7805 resistor, and have that power a 5v lamp?

As an owner of this game I highly, highly, highly recommend the colorDMD.

It looks too awesome to not have in there.

You have the LED or LCD? I want to see the LED

As others have said, the true vibrancy of the LED colors are not properly captured. It looks amazing and very bright in person.

Check the reflection of the red in the playfield glass to see how deep the red really looks.

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Is the cityscape decal for the back section not available? I see a different version on ebay. Also, anyone have a spare green circle Sanctum decal? I pm'ed Trident over the weekend, but haven't heard from him.

I just finished clearing my playfield. Should I put a Mylar square right where the magnet stops the ball on the sanctum to prevent future wear?

Hello

I am searching for micro switches for the "lock area" in The Shadow.

The manual says : 55647-12073-32, 55647-12073-33 and 55647-12073-34.

Does anybody know where i can find it? or something similar to the originals?

Best regards
OH

one of our best bets on this was Art who used to own Comet before selling and retiring. i believe he was working on something in the past and still speaks closely with the current owners of Comet. Maybe he can get something going with them or put the idea in their heads to get it going

i would put a rectangle of mylar inside the full length of the sanctum area, not only where the magnet grabs but also behind that where the magnet throws it back

alot of the micro switches are the same switch body with different armatures to activate the switch. you may have to get a basic switch body and use the switch armature off the old one,

Link? Any particular post number to look at?
EDIT. Found it. I'm an idiot.

Also, I'm having a problem where the drop target for the battlefield doesn't come up or down during gameplay, but in test mode it will go up and down.... it's kind of driving me nuts.

Any ideas?

The drop target is likely getting grimy.

How many people are interested in this? Are you willing to build your own boards? Or does it have to be plug and play?

I have an original Shadow manual and operators handbook for sale. SOLD.

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I'd say the simpler the better, but I'd be interested in either option. Do you happen to know if this would work?

No because the (20volts) 12volts positive and negative voltage are reversed back and forth on the same pair of wires going to the motor. But there are other ways.

I'd be in at a reasonable cost. I'd prefer plug and play, since I solder like a moron. Maybe consider a finished version and a kit version.

What about when the signal is taken for the motordrive, in this example 'motor-right', let that activate a timer for about 3 sec. ?!
At the moment the motor is driven to the right, the light goes 'ON' and after 2 seconds no movement, lights 'OFF'

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Plug and play is preferred.

But If you can make a working prototype, I'd be willing to build my own board provided there were clear instructions on what components to buy, and how to assemble and install.

This appears to be the correct switch. I just had that section all apart about 5 times so it is still fresh on my mind.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1994

FYI, I had a pesky lock problem with the third ball lock. It was intermittent. No amount of tweaking or adjusting the switches would solve my problem. I found the fix. The metal ball guide that forms the upper side of the chute for the lock needed adjustment. I had to remove the large orange plastic above the lock, loosen the screw for the ball guide, and while pushing the guide downward toward the lock switches, re-tighten the screw. Works perfectly now.

I was thinking the same but with an opto isolator in between for just what if.

For others who are looking for the Luppin Rules:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-luppin-rules

Thanx for tips guys

@#PunkPin #LOTR_breath

I just did a run of my Shadow translites, have a few unclaimed if anyone is looking for one. Shoot me a PM.

Like others I prefer a plug-n-play solution (I don't mind soldering though).

That having been said, I'm not sure what others are thinking, but all I'm looking for is a 6 (or 12) volt line that powers up when the playfield is active. That way I can pick the lighting I want. Not sure if that's what others had in mind or not when they say "plug-n-play."

I haven't spent much time looking into a solution, so curious what you have in mind!

This is what I'm going to do, build a board that can be connected in between J-1 and the motor control board A-16120 with a Z connector. The board will get its 12 volt power and ground and the TIP signal to activate all from J-1. I was going to have an opto isolator input and a adjustable delay relay output. This way any lighting voltage can be used such as 6.3 ac GI or 12volt dc. I was thinking of installing Comet matrix cables to the relay input and output so that it would be a plug and play setup for any type of lighting that anyone wanted to use. If there are any other ideas that need to be added let me know.

Payment sent. I sure think The Shadow is going to be a keeper. Can someone point me in the direction of the recommended LED layout with the new translight? I thought I remembered seeing something posted earlier. Thank you.

I just use cool white, with a couple of flex heads to help light the title a little more evenly. Not a fan of colored lights, but of course everyone is welcome to light it however makes them happy.

I think I'm down to only one left now, I'll have to go count and make sure when I pack up these recent orders.

I chose to add color for the Red Scarf, and Green in "The Shadow".
What I did different, is I added 2 Headed Color Changing Flux bulbs in the city line area on either side.
It gives the illusion of Chaos and activity in the background, and the flex heads allow for the positioning and brightness.

Should work fine. I might suggest testing a Frosted Strip on the Metal Bracket facing backward, or ask Ryan in an email about the 45 degree or Stadium Lighting strip....this can look amazing in the right usage...micro thin, and 2 brightness of light in 2 directions....

Just joined the club yesterday and ordered Aurich's translite (lucky timing). What a great game. Been looking for one for a while.

This one has been in the same home since 1999 and hasn't seen a lot of play during that time. Everything including cab and inside is just minty (slightest fading by the sanctum) with Mylar over it.

It'll get LEDs and a color dmd sooner or later.

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Can someone tell me where this goes?

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It screws into the bottom of the Battlefield. There are holes for the screws in the bracket that holds the drop target assembly. You'll notice that the steel rail around the orbit has a cutout; this is where the plastic sits once the Battlefield is lowered.

Sorry for no photos, I can't find my USB cable.

Seems you could probably hack some wires off the high power as it is being sent to the upper play field flipper--just need to verify the power only comes when the machine thinks the ball is up there. Tap in to the high power line, through a resistor, through some LEDS, and back through the ground?

Another thought, and I'm no electrical engineer, but couldn't you use a transistor?

If the high power is running to the upper play field, the transistor would let the GI current flow through to the lights on the upper play field.

Thankyou for your help. It's the only thing I didn't have a picture of when I took it all apart

I think it was already mentioned that it won't be that easy. If I understand correctly, when the paddle is moved in one direction +12vdc is applied. When it moves in the other direction -12vdc is applied.

I'm in - again. Hey I really like this machine!

Aurich - any chance of a re-run?

Yeah, I can run a few more with another order I need to make. I'll update when I figure the details.