(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

11 years ago


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There are 10,927 posts in this topic. You are on page 67 of 219.
#3301 7 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Okay so, just going the route of rebuilding everything for my battlefield underneath. I was able to find the motor, the slide shafts, the copper flanges, but I'm having trouble locating the pinion piece as well the teeth part as well. Are these just common things I could get at an ace hardware? I can't find them on marco or labeled as part numbers in the manual.

If for whatever reason any part of my Shadow's battlefield come up missing from MSA before I pick the game back up... I'm blaming YOU Tommy!

In all seriousness, if you need to swing by and take a look at anything under mine if you can't figure out how to put it back together go ahead and swing by. I told Dan it was ok to show you the game. Let me know if you like the chrome flipper bats on it and take a look at the wireforms (expect the loop on the apron). Erin did that with the CLR and they cleaned up really well.

#3302 7 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

I' ve seen this previous pic posted by waynetrane and I really like the lateral blades.
Do you know where to get them? Are they kind of mirrored but with a graphic pattern ? It looks like they reflect light somehow.

Up

#3303 7 years ago

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#3304 7 years ago

I think it was due to politeness that no one answered by now. This is not exactly pretty...

Black chrome side blades are my favorite on Shadow, but normal blades are also great. Maybe even gold, not sure about that.

What you are looking for is probably called "prism foil" or "rainbow foil" or "rainbow prism foil"? Something like that. This stuff was pretty common in the 70s and 80s.

#3305 7 years ago

Is it the paper you use to wrap presents at Christmas?

From the pic is not easy to tell, but I like the overall reflection mixed with graphic patterns. Then of course if its a kind of paper, you can easily tell looking at it in real life, and surely it does not look fine as in the pic.

Now looking for blades, never bought before: I agree black mirrored are the best for TS. Is there a producer/seller you recommend? Or do all mirror blades look the same?

#3306 7 years ago

I was able to get the battlefield working 100% yesterday, changing out my copper flanges that slide on the coil slide shafts did it. I order new coil slide shafts from marco using the part # from the manual but they were too thick to fit into the holes on the mech so I just ended up cleaning the originals, it now works perfectly. Very nice to have the game playing well just one week after it survived its fall in my driveway.

#3307 7 years ago

Congrats Tommy. Now go help Dan out with mine.

*Just don't help him move it butterfingers.

#3308 7 years ago

Has anyone ever brassed their legs and lockdown bar on the Shadow? If so, please share!

#3309 7 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Has anyone been able to contact pinball_customs? I sent him $45 for a Phurba set and he's been MIA for about 3 weeks.

Same situation still. Anyone been able to contact Brock? Sent him money 7 weeks ago for Phurba set and very little communication since then. I'm still hopeful that I'll get these but it's not looking good.

#3310 7 years ago

Anyone ever encounter an issue where the battlefield kicker kicks every time you move it back and forth? It's been like that the entire time I've owned it and I didn't even realize it wasn't supposed to work like that for a long time. Not sure where to even start diagnosing this.

#3311 7 years ago
Quoted from ziz:

Anyone ever encounter an issue where the battlefield kicker kicks every time you move it back and forth? It's been like that the entire time I've owned it and I didn't even realize it wasn't supposed to work like that for a long time. Not sure where to even start diagnosing this.

be sure the opto isn't reading the paddle . my paddle was to forward and was kicking numerous times when no ball was present . other than that good luck

#3312 7 years ago
Quoted from PinFever:

be sure the opto isn't reading the paddle . my paddle was to forward and was kicking numerous times when no ball was present . other than that good luck

Ck the opto in switch test mode. If the opto registers every time the mini playfield has a vibration, the optos could be loose or have a wire coming loose from the solder pad. Another thing to check is this: Raise the mini-playfield(just one thumbscrew) and check the wiring harness near the large connector on the bottom of the mini playfield. It can rub on the metal right there and cut the insulation on one or more wires.

#3313 7 years ago

Thanks for the replies, I'll check those suggestions out as soon as I can. I appreciate the advice!

#3314 7 years ago

Hope to join the cub in a couple days.
Found a nice Shadow for $3200 a couple miles from me.
A little more than I want to pay for it, but it's in fantastic condition working 100%. Practically no Sanctum wear.

Still a good price, you think?

#3315 7 years ago
Quoted from damadczar:

Hope to join the cub in a couple days.
Found a nice Shadow for $3200 a couple miles from me.
A little more than I want to pay for it, but it's in fantastic condition working 100%. Practically no Sanctum wear.
Still a good price, you think?

Definitely.

#3316 7 years ago

3200 is definitely a good price today. Does it have the Aurich translite or any other mods?

#3317 7 years ago
Quoted from dmieczko:

3200 is definitely a good price today. Does it have the Aurich translite or any other mods?

No mods. Straight stock. Guy has had it for 15+ years in his large private collection.

#3318 7 years ago

Any photos of it? I'd say go for it. Sounds like a great price for an underrated pin.

#3319 7 years ago
Quoted from damadczar:

Still a good price, you think?

I wouldn't sell mine for that price.

#3320 7 years ago
Quoted from smiley:

I wouldn't sell mine for that price.

Good price for the buyer, not the seller.

#3321 7 years ago

I agree that it sounds like a good deal for a game with little to no Sanctum wear.

#3322 7 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Any photos of it? I'd say go for it. Sounds like a great price for an underrated pin.

Here's a pic. Hard to see if it's a shadow (lol) or some very mild wear.
Pretty good machine overall though.

sanctum (resized).jpgsanctum (resized).jpg

#3323 7 years ago
Quoted from damadczar:

Here's a pic. Hard to see if it's a shadow (lol) or some very mild wear.

Looks like some very minor wear. Not bad at all compared to most Shadows. I'd just stick some mylar down over that and call it a day.

#3324 7 years ago

It doesn't look too bad. Having just pulled a Shadow apart and put it back together again, I would also recommend checking the welds on both ramps. The picture of the upper right one you posted doesn't look bad; but, they can still have the welds busted. Try pushing them

Regarding the Sanctum, definitely get mylar over it; but, I would take a straight edge and run over the entire area to make sure it hasn't already made a divot. Repairing the damage isn't bad at all, so if it needs to be done - don't worry about it.

#3325 7 years ago
Quoted from jedimastermatt:

I would also recommend checking the welds on both ramps.

This! I had to replace mine and that'll set you back a bit - good to figure it into cost if you'll need it. http://www.mantisamusements.com/shadow.htm

#3326 7 years ago
Quoted from grandy:

This! I had to replace mine and that'll set you back a bit - good to figure it into cost if you'll need it. http://www.mantisamusements.com/shadow.htm

Only if you don't have access to a welder. It's a very easy fix if you do.

#3327 7 years ago

Joined.

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#3328 7 years ago

After years of ownership, I finally beat the Final Battle, becoming a member of that club.

Getting a new color LED display last week rejuvenated my focus.

20161118_135140 (resized).jpg20161118_135140 (resized).jpg

#3330 7 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

After years of ownership, I finally beat the Final Battle, becoming a member of that club.
Getting a new color LED display last week rejuvenated my focus.

Kick ass RTS!!

I just started tearing mine apart for a restore. Hopefully, I can get it back together by Christmas and begin my quest for the Final Battle!!

Any tips for us noobs?

#3331 7 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Kick ass RTS!!
I just started tearing mine apart for a restore. Hopefully, I can get it back together by Christmas and begin my quest for the Final Battle!!
Any tips for us noobs?

My game is on factory settings. It helps to focus on starting scenes. Starting all the scenes is usually the hardest requirement for me. You need to average starting more than one scene per ball.

I also rely on extra balls. You earn one for finishing the Battlefield (you still need to collect it at the scoop).

It also helps to get the extra ball during the "Duel of Wills" video mode. A key trick to get that extra ball during the video mode is to use the gun trigger. If you pull the trigger, it will clear the screen and give you a few seconds to score the targets without risk. One of the targets is an EB reward. Try to play the video mode as long as you can before pulling the trigger - the EB target shows up toward the end. This extra ball is instantly awarded - no scoop shot needed.

#3332 7 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

After years of ownership, I finally beat the Final Battle, becoming a member of that club.
Getting a new color LED display last week rejuvenated my focus.

"Your life is now one of purpose and honor."

#3333 7 years ago

I watched Dr Strange this weekend. There were quite a few parallels in story and set pieces to Shadow. I could see a Shadow pin being easily reskinned to a Dr Strange one with new art.

#3334 7 years ago

Having an issue with a slam-tilt during multiball and one switch issue - see the topic and throw in your two cents here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-wpc-s-slam-tilt-during-multiball-one-switch-issue#post-3459505

#3335 7 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

A key trick to get that extra ball during the video mode is to use the gun trigger. If you pull the trigger, it will clear the screen and give you a few seconds to score the targets without risk. One of the targets is an EB reward. Try to play the video mode as long as you can before pulling the trigger - the EB target shows up toward the end.

The Extra Ball is always the 11th award to appear. You can get it early on if you're really aggressive and pick up all the points awards as quickly as possible. This is the easiest way to get the EB because there's only a few phurbas coming at you at that point. I've never bothered with the gun because I think the trade-off of taking your hands away from the flipper buttons isn't worth it. If you don't have time to dodge then you don't have time to reach for the gun, and if you do have time to dodge then what's the point?

1 week later
#3336 7 years ago

I picked up a Shadow a couple of months ago. Seller claimed that it was 80% shopped.
I added Titan rubber, Comet LEDs, and a new DMD.
I love this game!

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#3337 7 years ago

Nice. Where did you get that green circle sanctum decal?

Quoted from onemoresean:I picked up a Shadow a couple of months ago. Seller claimed that it was 80% shopped.
I added Titan rubber, Comet LEDs, and a new DMD.
I love this game!

#3338 7 years ago

So im still shopping my shadow out from March. I got a new battlefield drop target. It has to be the ugliest gold color I have ever seen. So I had the body shop artist at the car dealership i work for, spray it. What do you think?

20161208_160435 (resized).jpg20161208_160435 (resized).jpg

#3339 7 years ago

On my machine the two lower flippers coils are 11629 (blue color) on the right, and 11630 (red color) on the left.
The manual calls both 11629 (blue). Is this correct?

#3340 7 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

On my machine the two lower flippers coils are 11629 (blue color) on the right, and 11630 (red color) on the left.
The manual calls both 11629 (blue). Is this correct?

29 correct stronger coil for ramps

#3341 7 years ago

My Battlefield target is not popping back up. I looked in the manual, and it lists the parts of the drop target.
listed as A-14615-1, 1-Bank Drop Target Assembly. However, there is no diagram to reference, like every other part.

Does anyone have the diagram? Both my hard copy and the file on IPBD have it missing. So I assume that it was omitted originally back when game was released in 1994.

Do any other games of that era use the same drop target that has a diagram included in its manual?

Here is pic of the only info listed:

IMG_5575 (resized).PNGIMG_5575 (resized).PNG

#3342 7 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Does anyone have the diagram?

Not shown in the game manual since it is used in several games and is in the general parts manual.
This should help:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_Grey_16-9562-A/index.html#/414/

#3343 7 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Not shown in the game manual since it is used in several games and is in the general parts manual.
This should help:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_Grey_16-9562-A/index.html#/414/

Thanks for the info. Looks like the link took me to a five-bank drop target schematic. Same as single drop, then? Just trying to figure out why my Battlefield target isnt popping back up. I haven't dug into it yet, was looking for a good pic to compare to when I do this weekend. I found a stretched out spring in the bottom of cabinet and thought maybe that was the issue.? Your help is appreciated.

#3344 7 years ago

Might have put you on the facing page, Page 5-10. Page 5-10a is the one you want. Page 5-10a is on the right if it comes up with two pages shown. Might have to flip to the next page if only 5-10 is shown.
Check and see if it's the spring shown as part 17 in the diagram, connecting to the target and the bracket.
Edit: Also check the other spring shown as part 23d, on the knock down assembly.

#3345 7 years ago

"Nice. Where did you get that green circle sanctum decal?"

I should be having decals soon!

#3346 7 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Thanks for the info. Looks like the link took me to a five-bank drop target schematic. Same as single drop, then? Just trying to figure out why my Battlefield target isnt popping back up. I haven't dug into it yet, was looking for a good pic to compare to when I do this weekend. I found a stretched out spring in the bottom of cabinet and thought maybe that was the issue.? Your help is appreciated.

I would not need a diagram to troubleshoot this I don't think. Switch matrix chart, maybe. Ck in coil test menu and see if the coil is energizing. If it is not then there you go. If it is then ck the switches on the mech in the switch test menu to see if the game doesn't realize the target is up/down. Of course, cleaning the mech and making sure everything is working smoothly is also a good idea.

#3347 7 years ago

Well...turns out the busted spring was a red herring. A simple broken wire. 15 minute solder job and back up and running! Thanks for everyone's input to give the confidence to get under there and figure it out today.

IMG_5577 (resized).JPGIMG_5577 (resized).JPG

#3348 7 years ago

I think the book says the upper right is a 15411. Does anyone know if the arm that attaches to the phirba divertor with the Allen screws that ratches back and forth on the coil plunger available? The hole that the pin goes through is ovaled pretty good on mine

#3349 7 years ago

He doesn't get enough credit for the work he did, but here's to Luppin for finding better settings across the board that makes TS really sing as a player. If you haven't set up your Shadow with the Luppin Rules, you are missing out on a lot of what the Shadow has to offer.....

Three Cheers for Luppin!!!!

#3350 7 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

He doesn't get enough credit for the work he did, but here's to Luppin for finding better settings across the board that makes TS really sing as a player. If you haven't set up your Shadow with the Luppin Rules, you are missing out on a lot of what the Shadow has to offer.....
Three Cheers for Luppin!!!!

Thanks much Blitzburgh99. Actually I loved playing around with the settings. The standard settings really does not express all the potential of this great machine. Its so much better when all features can be explored properly (amazing by the way that back in the days the software programmers left such wide ranges in the adjustments menus), and at the same time achieving an overall better balance for the game.

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