Hey Club! Can I join? I've owned a Shadow since 2002. No LEDs, no mods, just an error-free stock Shadow proudly displaying the full Baldwin. But I can be talked into some tastefully selected color LEDs and maybe even a color DMD after seeing what everybody else has done to theirs!

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Its not bad. As others have said it can be done without removing the battlefield. Im a noob and was able to do it in a few hours.

I just recently replaced the GI with leds. I went warm white throughout except for a few reds under each ramp. Used frosted for the slings and drain lanes (is that a word?). Pictures make a few lights seem brighter than they are. Looks great in person and very simple going mostly white.

I have a green topper and green speaker lights so theres some glare from that. Color dmd is great too! And mirror blades!

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Sounds like it could be the flipper button opto board. Could try swapping your flipper button opto boards to see if the problem switches to left to right. Alternatively, you could take some alcohol on a Q-tip and clean the up the optos as that could also cause a problem. Hope you get it figured out soon

Thanks! That's a good idea, and one I haven't tried.

Naw. Nothing complicated. Hardest thing is undoing small c clips. Easy for those things to pop off and you end up with a fun little game of hide and seek. I took a few pics to make sure everything went back together the right way as well.

Anyone else have the problem where sanctum wall goes wonky? After a lock, sometimes my wall will go up and down a few times then stay down. Unless you power the ball into sanctum, magnet will hold the ball for a long time then drop it. At some point the game fixes itself and the sanctum works fine. Wall always works fine at start of game as well.

Thanks for the LED help. I've also seen purple LEDs for the scene inserts that really popped. But I think the color DMD is highest on my list of Expensive Things I Don't Need But Desperately Want.

Youll want Comets Purple Passion for the dark Purple Insert color.

And a bright red flasher behind Mr. Baldwin's ring.

Speaking of replacing unattractive translights, did anybody make this one available for purchase? It's exactly what this pin needed in the first place.

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No, the problem was solved just adjusting the nut.

One more question: is it possible that the magnet looses a bit of its magnetic field upon continous use and need some time to recharge? When in test mode, after a while, it looks like over time it looses some strenght in launching up the ball. But during gameplay it works fine.

Another minor issue: sometimes the kicker in the battlefield, after hitting the ball, stays "forward" ( and slighlty leaning on one side). So when the ball comes back, it is not ready to hit quickly again. It does like that only sometimes. Probably something about the optos, but I cant understand what exactly.

I suppose if the coil overheats it might do that (similar to LOTR flippers), but I wouldn't have thought that the magnet would be active long enough during normal gameplay for that to happen.

Check this bracket on your kicker

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Aurich alternative shadow translight and speaker panel are a must.

My machine has no flipper staging. Is TS supposed to have stock flipper staging? How to install it if is missing: is there a specific kit?

Hey Guys, I just joined the club over the weekend. Filthy as hell and a multitude of problems but she's cleaning up well and 99% working now. I do have a couple questions.
1. The wall and lock work well, but when it pulls the ball back there is a loud vibration for about 1-2 seconds, almost like a shaker motor. Is this normal?
2. The left metal ramp is broken. The right wall of the metal ramp is just a separate piece. Is this a broken weld or is the ramp repairable? Is this a very common problem on Shadow?

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Here's a before and after of mode inserts!

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Welcome and congrats! This is a great pin to have.

1. I've had mine for 14 years and do not have the vibration you're describing. It hums during the lock, but that's it. Is the magnet firmly attached under the playfield? There are multiple posts in the forum about adjusting the fit.

2. Broken ramps are not uncommon. I've never tried repairing one, but you see them for sale here and there. Marco used to sell stainless replacements. Good luck!

Yes, it is supposed to have stock flipper staging.

I had the hum, but rebuilt the assembly underneath and fixed the Sanctum wear back to pristine. The hum then went away. I'm not sure if the fix was due to making the magnet touch the wood OR wood splintering was vibrating and disappeared when fixed.

Here are the ramps you want (by Mantis): http://www.mantisamusements.com/shadow.htm

Thanks for the link!

I had the loud hum when I got mine. It also had a decent sized divot in the sanctum. I repaired mine and the sound went from a loud buzz to just a moderate hum that is normal of a magnet. I assume the closer the ball is to the magnet, the louder the buzz. I'd try backing the core out until it is just a little stronger than is required to grab the ball. This way you minimize noise and wear. If you have sanctum wear I'd recommend repairing it while you have the game stripped.

Joined the club today!

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Need to rebuild my sanctum area. Anyone ever try gorilla brand acrylic. It's not a brand I've heard mentioned but supposed to be rock solid when cured

Looking for one phurba if anyone knows who sells them. Thx

Send a PM to pinball_customs. He should be able to hook you up!

Thx! I did but not heard back yet...

ramp divertor question....both f my springs are missing....The correct part number is 10-320 and seems most have them in stock. But they seem so short in the pics. Like 1 inch..the distant it covers seems like 2-3 inches. Is this the correct spring? thx

I might have an extra ramp. Don't remember what side it was. I can check.

Thanks. I since found out that both ramps have broken welds, just the right one is not as bad as the left.

I just replaced my my diverter springs with the stock part 10-320 from marco and it's working great.

looking to buy left divertor, right ramp. mine is missing the bracket for the switch. if any one has one please PM me
also the short left divortor

Thx

I just upgraded to L-6 ROM from L-2. I can see quite a few changes.

The most obviosu change is that now Kahn mb is now a 2 balls multiball (before 3). Correct? Also some locgis have been improved and some scoring and bugs fixed.

Anyway, I checked on Planetary Pinball about the ROM revision history but not much is documented. Do you know where to find more detailed information about the revision history?

Khan should still be a 3 ball multi.

yeah, got some issue with an opto. Kahn back to 3 ball multi now.

anyway, details about the revision history? The Planetary Pinball one may be incomplete.

I had the same problem when I bought mine. Easily fixed with a TIG welder.

I have a problem with opto 2 in the trough. I found it not working, so I cleaned it, put in place and now in test all works fine. But during gameplay something is wrong with Kahn multiball: sometimes only 2 balls are thrown in mb, instead of 3. This happens only if there is no ball in the Sanctum. If one ball is in the Sanctum, then that ball is released and one launched by the autoshooter (plus the one already in play): so it's ok, 3 balls mb. But if there are no balls in the Sactum, then 2 should be launched by the autoshooter. And here is the problem: only one is launched. When this happens, it's enough to nudge a bit the machine, and immediately the third ball of the multiball is launched too. I think when I nudge the machine, the opto in the trough works fine and detect the correct number of balls.

But as I said during test all optos work fine. The issue should be related to the opto, but what to check now?

Sounds like the balls are getting stuck in the trough, either mechanically or due to magnetism.

One of these should do the trick: https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=449

Spot on. Not related to optos at all. I checked and the balls are not flowing properly in the trough, and get sometimes stuck when a new ball is launched, so the logic of the software is confused.

No other workaround for magnetised troughs (and other parts in general)? Is there a way to demagnetize them?

Yes, but it needs special equipment and won't last. The plastic thingy solves the problem forever.

I recently moved the machine to a very inclined floor, just thought about it. Now I adjusted the legs and everything is fine. Do you think there can still be some magnetization involved, or is it normal for the balls not to move smoothly in the trough if the machine is badly levelled?

It's not always magnetism the trough will sometime have actually dimples in it.

Best procedure to adjust diverter? My right one works perfect when of upright and I move back and forth. When I Lower pf it gets hung up sometimes and goes half way. Need to adjust the coil brackets or the diverter rod. There is plenty of slack up and down on diverter shaft. Any help would be great

Check the grub screw first. If it's not tight it can cause the divertor to move half way, and it's easily fixed.

thx...thats the same issue that happens on IJ POA if that little screw is not tight.

After looking at it closely it seems it fires to the right and left correctly but seems to snap back almost to the center sometimes. I need to buy the correct springs. It was missing springs and I had some flipper return springs I put on till I order correct ones.

I got these at AC CAR show $5. No brainer

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send me a few which ones for shadow? manual says 10-320

ill look at my shadow and match them best i can.