(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

6 years ago



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There are 6672 posts in this topic. You are on page 62 of 134.
#3051 3 years ago

Many of my settings are not actually easier, they are just different. First of all some has harder values, so they are... just harder. But also think about this: longer times for the mode helps a bit with finishing the mode itself, but on the other hand force you to keep the ball in play for longer, before you can start a new mode. So it may be harder to reach the Final Battle. In any case, TS really needs rules adjustment to be fully appreciated, no doubt!

#3052 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Many of my settings are not actually easier, they are just different. First of all some has harder values, so they are... just harder. But also think about this: longer times for the mode helps a bit with finishing the mode itself, but on the other hand force you to keep the ball in play for longer, before you can start a new mode. So it may be harder to reach the Final Battle. In any case, TS really needs rules adjustment to be fully appreciated, no doubt!

Agreed. I like your settings also amplify the scoring importance of modes and multiball, potentially even making the game more balanced scoring wise and less reliant on the final battle for a high score.

#3053 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Agreed. I like your settings also amplify the scoring importance of modes and multiball, potentially even making the game more balanced scoring wise and less reliant on the final battle for a high score.

Exactly.

#3054 3 years ago

I'd be curious what settings other Shadow owners have their machines on, do you use the default settings, use the standard Easy, Hard, Extra hard tweak or customize the different modes down to the granular level.

#3055 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Yes, it's like that. But I am trying to understand which targets to aim at, according to the lights still blinking. And it looks to me that on the right column the logic is not straightforward.

My understanding is that the bottom two lights on the right go with the targets they're next to. The one next to the VUK wireform indicates the top spot target on the right hand side and the light at the top right goes with the right hand drop target at the back. The top left light seems to stay on until you've hit both targets adjacent to it, while all the others are self-explanatory. Note that I have not actually tested this with the glass out, and it's kind of irrelevant to me anyway since it's pretty well impossible to get any real precision with battlefield shots. I find that 3 or 4 solid shots with good side-to-side action usually clears most or all of the targets. Any that are left are often cleared by subsequent unintentional shots to the VUK, or shots to the right saucer.

#3056 3 years ago
Quoted from Circus_Animal:

My understanding is that the bottom two lights on the right go with the targets they're next to. The one next to the VUK wireform indicates the top spot target on the right hand side and the light at the top right goes with the right hand drop target at the back. The top left light seems to stay on until you've hit both targets adjacent to it, while all the others are self-explanatory. Note that I have not actually tested this with the glass out, and it's kind of irrelevant to me anyway since it's pretty well impossible to get any real precision with battlefield shots. I find that 3 or 4 solid shots with good side-to-side action usually clears most or all of the targets. Any that are left are often cleared by subsequent unintentional shots to the VUK, or shots to the right saucer.

What you describe is the most logic system. I also thought it worked like that. But a test with the glass off revealed a different logic, described in my previous posts. As I mentioned, no idea if this weird logic depends from a problem on my machine, or its really like that. Anyway, During normal Battlefield play is not too important to understand the logic, but on the Final Battle is crucial: you have to finish off that final light in few seconds, so better to know exactly which target to aim at!

#3057 3 years ago

Anyone selling alt translite kit?

#3058 3 years ago

Hey guys, two quick issues that most of you have already dealt with. One, I installed the new reinforced stand up targets on both sides of the left ramp but I still seem to be getting air balls. How far can you bend them forward before it becomes counter productive?

Second, I know many of you have had issues with the ball flying off the center wireform. I've read about it throughout the thread but I didn't see any definitive solution. I know people have installed longer switch arms to ensure the ball scores, does that longer arm actually keep the ball from falling off? I would imagine its not strong enough, so I was curious if anyone has found a solution that works. I attempted to bend the wireform but I'm concerned I may just break a weld joint. You can see in the picture that the one wire is slightly bent upward. I've adjusted and loosened every connecting nut to move the wireform is a more favorable way but to no avail. Any insight from those of you who have been there would be greatly appreciated.

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#3059 3 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Second, I know many of you have had issues with the ball flying off the center wireform.

Had the same problem, I think it was Vid who provided the solution that worked for me: Loosen the ramp, push it as far as possible to the right and thighten it down again.

I still have a ball flying off once in a while, but only when I 100% nail the shot at very high speed.

#3060 3 years ago

I would loosen all connections and try to force it where it looks right. Hold it there while you tighten everything. Washers may help. I don't have the problem. The ball does fall off ramps sometimes but rarely.

I did have the problem of air balls off the left ramp targets. Replacing them with the reinforced ones helped greatly. Old ones were bent back pretty bad. The ball still bounces up off the targets a little but nothing like before and never over the flippers.

#3061 3 years ago

Had been neglecting the shadow for awhile since getting my MET. Just finished replacing the GI with leds and have been playing it more this week. Made final battle last night and remembered why this game kicks so much ass!

#3062 3 years ago

Joining the Shadow club tomorrow Where do I find that cool car topper?

#3063 3 years ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Joining the Shadow club tomorrow Where do I find that cool car topper?

Take that money and get mirror blades instead. Trust me.

Also welcome to the club!

#3064 3 years ago

Pick up mirror blades first and then where do I find the car.Had a buddy who led'ed car looked pretty sweet

#3065 3 years ago

Luppin suggestions for settings is as much of a game changer for this pin as Aurich translite. Those settings make the modes actually playable. Been playing those settings for the past few months. Great work Luppin!!!! Thanks for working through those for us all.

#3066 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballNewb:

Take that money and get mirror blades instead. Trust me.
Also welcome to the club!

Get the brass side blades when they go on sale near Christmas time

#3067 3 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Luppin suggestions for settings is as much of a game changer for this pin as Aurich translite. Those settings make the modes actually playable. Been playing those settings for the past few months. Great work Luppin!!!! Thanks for working through those for us all.

Thanks much Blizburgh99! Hey, an Aurich translite owner here, so that's a big compliment It was the big love for this beautiful game that made me dig deep in the rules. It was a great pleasure to experiment with them.
I think that if more people will use those rules, suggestions for (slight changes are welcome. I think now they create a balanced game, that enables the player to explore all its intricacies. But maybe a few more (or less) seconds here and there could be tweaked.. Although it depends on tastes and possibly on the specific machine.

#3068 3 years ago

Need to rebuild GI connector and backbox connector. Same connectors? I know the wires are thicker on the GI connector

Any links to correct parts would help

#3069 3 years ago

Joined the club last Saturday! I love this game! Probably in the minority, but I think the original translite looks sick! Someone drew that! Anyways, very proud to own this game.

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#3070 3 years ago
Quoted from AJNada:

Probably in the minority, but I think the original translite looks sick! Someone drew that! Anyways, very proud to own this game.

Ha, my thoughts exactly. And: my line-up as well!

Great taste, sir! Congrats on your pickup!
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#3071 3 years ago

It looks to me that couple is common among TS as weel as BSD collectors...

In my collection of six there's only keepers, but those two are possibly more keepers than others.

About the translite, I own Aurich's one. I also think that the original is pretty good with its art deco style, but I could not stand the central huge Alec face.

#3072 3 years ago

I don't actually think the original is that bad at all. It's great artwork and here in Germany we don't know anything about the "Baldwin-Problem", here he's just an actor like any other. I have Aurich's translite in the game and the original lying around and guests often ask me why I don't install the original as it has much nicer artwork and fits the game much better.

That said, to me the original speaker panel is the REAL problem here. It doesn't fit the rest of the pins artwork at all and looks cheap as hell.

#3073 3 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

I don't actually think the original is that bad at all. It's great artwork and here in Germany we don't know anything about the "Baldwin-Problem", here he's just an actor like any other. I have Aurich's translite in the game and the original lying around and guests often ask me why I don't install the original as it has much nicer artwork and fits the game much better.
That said, to me the original speaker panel is the REAL problem here. It doesn't fit the rest of the pins artwork at all and looks cheap as hell.

Agree with you Someoneelse, I also have the original and it looks good. The main problem with it for me it's the SIZE of Baldwin face. Too big, too central. Aurich's is beautiful too, although of course the comic style is different from the movie.
The original speaker panel is a big mistery and a shocker to me: how could they originally allow that turd? I mean, I do not think it's even a question of budget. Somebody drew it in like 5 minutes I guess, and it does not fit at all with the rest of the art. It looks like it's taken from another machine and theme really. I am sure even in 5 minutes something much better could have been done, it's just ridiculous.

#3074 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Need to rebuild GI connector and backbox connector. Same connectors? I know the wires are thicker on the GI connector
Any links to correct parts would help

scroll back through this thread when you're ready to re-pin that GI connector. There are errors in the manual and if you use it, you will overload one string and blow fuses. There is an updated diagram with the correct way to pin the connector.

#3075 3 years ago

I have the same problem. How to locate something within 62 pages without losing an entire weekend?

Actually this is a general problem over the entire Forum. There's plenty of excellent infos here, but especially on long threads is very difficult to find them.

#3076 3 years ago

Anyone have a problem where the upper play field paddle stops moving left and right in middle of game? Mine was working fine while the ball was in play in the upper play field then just parked in the middle. It was still swatting at the ball but not responding to flipper buttons. Funny thing was that I completed the battlefield like that. Worked fine after that.

#3077 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Need to rebuild GI connector and backbox connector.

Quoted from jwo825:

scroll back through this thread when you're ready to re-pin that GI connector.

Quoted from Luppin:

I have the same problem. How to locate something within 62 pages without losing an entire weekend?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/52#post-3014247
It is placed in PinWiki as well:
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=The_Shadow

#3079 3 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

That said, to me the original speaker panel is the REAL problem here. It doesn't fit the rest of the pins artwork at all and looks cheap as hell.

Same here, speaker panel was what convinced me to order the Aurich package.

#3080 3 years ago

Gonna led my shadow. Any new led pics? I like the blue and purple led look but this game is so dark a nice white also brings out colors. Anyone that can post a nice pf pic that would be nice. Thx

#3081 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Gonna led my shadow. Any new led pics? I like the blue and purple led look but this game is so dark a nice white also brings out colors. Anyone that can post a nice pf pic that would be nice. Thx

Go back one page and look at TheCount's post. One of the only Shadows here that doesn't look like its puking pink and purple. I think it looks great and he has some tasteful colored mode inserts.

#3082 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Gonna led my shadow. Any new led pics? I like the blue and purple led look but this game is so dark a nice white also brings out colors. Anyone that can post a nice pf pic that would be nice. Thx

Here are photos of my restored Shadow. I used Comet LED's and highly recommend. In my opinion, you can go for a golden age Shadow (with warm whites) or use more cool whites, and go for more of a sleek Matrix-y shadow, giving it more of a sleek modern hue. You can go for lots of colors in the GI, but I think that washes out the art and darkens the payfield.

Since my Shadow is based on the radio show a la the tranlite (thanks Aurich). I've opted for using warm white throughout for 90% of the GI (most of the purple is coming from the flashers and the lit star posts). The golden hue of the white, is a perfect fit for the golden art deco look. The only color I have is under the battlefield, I was going for an eerie mysterious green to compliment the mist.

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#3083 3 years ago

Here is mine that I finished not long ago. 2smd cool white in gi. 1smd for inserts. Added dual flex purple spotlight for mini playfield. Two cool white spotlights above slings. All blue lit purple star posts. Got that idea from earlier in the thread.

image (resized).jpg

#3084 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Here are photos of my restored Shadow. I used Comet LED's and highly recommend. In my opinion, you can go for a golden age Shadow (with warm whites) or use more cool whites, and go for more of a sleek Matrix-y shadow, giving it more of a sleek modern hue. You can go for lots of colors in the GI, but I think that washes out the art and darkens the playfield.
Since my Shadow is based on the radio show a la the tranlite (thanks Aurich). I've opted for using warm white throughout for 90% of the GI (most of the purple is coming from the flashers and the lit star posts). The golden hue of the white, is a perfect fit for the golden art deco look. The only color I have is under the battlefield, I was going for an eerie mysterious green to compliment the mist.

Well said, and nicely done!

Shadow is as easy as white choice, and color match inserts.

Variations are done for the mode insert colors, lighting the back, and battlefield.

Quoted from jawjaw:

Here is mine that I finished not long ago. 2smd cool white in gi. 1smd for inserts. Added dual flex purple spotlight for mini playfield. Two cool white spotlights above slings. All blue lit purple star posts. Got that idea from earlier in the thread.

Clean and Bright! Sweet!, jawjaw!

This game is pure art, and pure joy!

#3085 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Here are photos of my restored Shadow. I used Comet LED's and highly recommend. In my opinion, you can go for a golden age Shadow (with warm whites) or use more cool whites, and go for more of a sleek Matrix-y shadow, giving it more of a sleek modern hue. You can go for lots of colors in the GI, but I think that washes out the art and darkens the payfield.
Since my Shadow is based on the radio show a la the tranlite (thanks Aurich). I've opted for using warm white throughout for 90% of the GI (most of the purple is coming from the flashers and the lit star posts). The golden hue of the white, is a perfect fit for the golden art deco look. The only color I have is under the battlefield, I was going for an eerie mysterious green to compliment the mist.

Thank you. I want the radio theme too. How many purple star post flashers?

#3086 3 years ago

FYI...

Not sure who else may have the problem with the left ramp, right diverter switch not registering of the ball rolls rather quickly...

I took the switch actuator arm and flattened out in the vise and now it registers 100% of the hits.

#3087 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Thank you. I want the radio theme too. How many purple star post flashers?

One doesnt need to do them all, many may not be visible to an extant.

Just count up the ones you wish.

With Matrix, they respond to both GI Quick Connect as well as Flasher.
So whether you wish to Alligator clip, solder, or use a plug and play 2 headed connector,
you can achieve this pretty fast, and at a very affordable cost.

#3088 3 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

One doesnt need to do them all, many may not be visible to an extant.
Just count up the ones you wish.
With Matrix, they respond to both GI Quick Connect as well as Flasher.
So whether you wish to Alligator clip, solder, or use a plug and play 2 headed connector,
you can achieve this pretty fast, and at a very affordable cost.

Do you know if Comet will be releasing the 45 degree frosted strips to use on the battlefield?

One recommendation I recommend is to use a warm white SMD strip above the flippers under the apron for a nice glow. You can see an example in my last image.

#3089 3 years ago

Gsme is half apart but quick question on brick drop target. Does it drip when you hit it like most targets? Seems no matter how I move it it stays up. Controlled by solenoid? Getting a few error messages about the target up and down switch and coil so I need to investigate

#3090 3 years ago

Has anyone noticed that when you shot the scene hole next to the right ramp and quickly pull the trigger you initiate a duck quacking sounds. What do those quacks represent? Also, what is with the herd of cows that sometimes runs across the DMD making a mooing sound?

#3091 3 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Hey guys, two quick issues that most of you have already dealt with. One, I installed the new reinforced stand up targets on both sides of the left ramp but I still seem to be getting air balls. How far can you bend them forward before it becomes counter productive?
Second, I know many of you have had issues with the ball flying off the center wireform. I've read about it throughout the thread but I didn't see any definitive solution. I know people have installed longer switch arms to ensure the ball scores, does that longer arm actually keep the ball from falling off? I would imagine its not strong enough, so I was curious if anyone has found a solution that works. I attempted to bend the wireform but I'm concerned I may just break a weld joint. You can see in the picture that the one wire is slightly bent upward. I've adjusted and loosened every connecting nut to move the wireform is a more favorable way but to no avail. Any insight from those of you who have been there would be greatly appreciated.

Do you have an extra flipper rubber? Cut two pieces out of it and super glue them behind the targets. No more air balls.

#3092 3 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Has anyone noticed that when you shot the scene hole next to the right ramp and quickly pull the trigger you initiate a duck quacking sounds. What do those quacks represent? Also, what is with the herd of cows that sometimes runs across the DMD making a mooing sound?

Get the duck to quack three times in three separate locations (khan, mode, battlefield kicker)... then shoot the mode for a surprise.

#3093 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Do you know if Comet will be releasing the 45 degree frosted strips to use on the battlefield?
One recommendation I recommend is to use a warm white SMD strip above the flippers under the apron for a nice glow. You can see an example in my last image.

They were ready, other than a connector, when I left.
Id send them an email.....they may be ready, but they havent listed yet.

#3094 3 years ago

Is Great Lakes only place that sells star post flashers?

#3096 3 years ago

Thx. If I go with the warm theme guess I should get the wArm white and buy purple posts

Is there enough wire length to tie into other GI close by?

#3097 3 years ago

Actually I stand corrected. My pin has purple posts with a blue light inside. I experimented with the various colors and posted photos of my tests here. Let me find my post.

#3098 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I decided to experiment with different colored posts (purple, blue, teal) and lights (purple, blue). I went with purple posts with blue light. It creates a gradient of royal blue that works well with the Art Deco theme and playfield colors.
I've shared some photos for reference:

And here is the comparison of purple in purple post and blue in purple post:

And the final result (blue light in purple post):

Here it is!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/48#post-2880013

#3099 3 years ago

Thx. Great pics!! Im gonna add blue to wh20 also

#3100 3 years ago

I forget where I got the star posts but did buy the star posts lights from Comet. I remember someone else saying they had to be modified to fit and that was the case with me. None of them would fit under the star posts. I had to trim the corners of the led plastic holders and scrap the insides of the star posts to get them to fit.

I do really like the comet matrix system. I only soldered a few wires to the gi and was able to easily connect all the added lighting. All of it can easily be removed and makes it easy to experiment.

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