(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

6 years ago



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  • 6,672 posts
  • 558 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Stuieb84
  • Topic is favorited by 193 Pinsiders

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There are 6672 posts in this topic. You are on page 59 of 134.
#2901 3 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Thanks for your answer Luddite, any suggestion on how to repair the sanctum zone without canceling the writings and without buying those wrong colored decals? How did you guiys repaired yours?

Repaint the whole section, with the grey (the whole shape, don't try to paint part or you will see a line. I provided a formula in an earlier post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/39#post-2674488

Then make a waterslide of the type and lay it over the grey area. You will then want to clear, mylar and wax. Here is my completed Shadow, after the Sanctum area was fully repaired:

IMG_9692_(resized).jpg

#2902 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

I saw some set that looks like soft blue.

That is probably the peel off film that protects the plastic.

#2903 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Repaint the whole section, with the grey (the whole shape, don't try to paint part or you will see a line. I provided a formula in an earlier post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/39#post-2674488
Then make a waterslide of the type and lay it over the grey area. You will then want to clear, mylar and wax. Here is my completed Shadow, after the Sanctum area was fully repaired:

Thank you for your answer! That back decal with skyscrapers is amazing! Where did you took it?

Anyway my problem is that the letter N and C are partially without the field clear stratus.. about 1-2 mm of difference..if i cover the whole section with JB Weld they would be canceled..there isn't a clear product that doesn't become yellow that i could use?

Sorry again for my english..hope you will understand what i mean..

#2904 3 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

there isn't a clear product that doesn't become yellow that i could use?

2 part auto clearcoat never turns yellow, even after years in sunlight.

Quoted from Pesmerga:

Sorry again for my english..hope you will understand what i mean..

Your English is better than our Italian!

We can understand you perfectly.

#2905 3 years ago

Anyone recognize this broken piece? It looks like part of a pin. It's brass looking and about the same gauge as the wire forms. Found it laying at the bottom of my cabinet when installing leds. Cab is pretty clean so don't think it is just some random junk. Everything is in great shape and plays great so cannot figure it out. Any ideas?

image_(resized).jpg

#2906 3 years ago

Hey guys, I'm close to finishing my restoration and I can't seem to get the diverted adjusted proper. No matter how I adjust them it still seems to make contact with the sides of the ramp. Is there a trick to keeping them from touching the ramps like a different size coil stop or something?

20160618_002042_(resized).jpg

20160618_002029_(resized).jpg

20160618_002017_(resized).jpg

#2907 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Anyone recognize this broken piece? It looks like part of a pin. It's brass looking and about the same gauge as the wire forms. Found it laying at the bottom of my cabinet when installing leds. Cab is pretty clean so don't think it is just some random junk. Everything is in great shape and plays great so cannot figure it out. Any ideas?

Is it partially hollow, like a rivet?

#2908 3 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Hey guys, I'm close to finishing my restoration and I can't seem to get the diverted adjusted proper. No matter how I adjust them it still seems to make contact with the sides of the ramp. Is there a trick to keeping them from touching the ramps like a different size coil stop or something?

Thickness(/wear) of the coil stops, wear of the armature and wear in the crank arm arm pin hole are the things that affect the distance of travel of the diverter. When I replaced the crank arm of my right diverter, it became more snug fit and doesn't touch the sides of the ramp when tested manually, but it's pretty close call. I'm not sure it the inertia of the heavy diverter still makes the shaft to give up enough for the contact to happen. I'd like to put some cushions to the coil stops, but I'm out of ideas what material would hold in there. Any ideas?

#2909 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Is it partially hollow, like a rivet?

Solid.

#2910 3 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Hey guys, I'm close to finishing my restoration and I can't seem to get the diverted adjusted proper. No matter how I adjust them it still seems to make contact with the sides of the ramp. Is there a trick to keeping them from touching the ramps like a different size coil stop or something?

Are they not supposed to touch? Just checked my Shadow that I just got and both diverters touch the sides. Also noticed I was missing a screw holding one of the phurbas. Hope is not hard to find a replacement in the right finish.

Edit - forgot to say your Shadow looks awesome!

#2911 3 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Hey guys, I'm close to finishing my restoration and I can't seem to get the diverted adjusted proper. No matter how I adjust them it still seems to make contact with the sides of the ramp. Is there a trick to keeping them from touching the ramps like a different size coil stop or something?

use a small ribber as a bumper stop either on diverter or on the ramp to limit travel.
your game is looking good.

#2912 3 years ago

Thank you for your help guys! I have 2 question more:

I've seen the suggested color kit in the link posted by jonesjb. Transparent colors are going to cover the jbweld properly? Opaque colors aren't better?

Waterslide decals are normal adhesive that can be printed by typography? There are any specifics that I must respect to prevent them from ruining (type of adhesive etc.)?
It is suggested to apply mylar on it or this will rise the playfield too much?

Sorry but I'm a newbie :S

PS please let me know where i can find that skyscraper decal/plastic you have in the back of the cabinet, I really like it

#2913 3 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Thank you for your help guys! I have 2 question more:
I've seen the suggested color kit in the link posted by jonesjb. Transparent colors are going to cover the jbweld properly? Opaque colors aren't better?
Waterslide decals are normal adhesive that can be printed by typography? There are any specifics that I must respect to prevent them from ruining (type of adhesive etc.)?
It is suggested to apply mylar on it or this will rise the playfield too much?
Sorry but I'm a newbie :S
PS please let me know where i can find that skyscraper decal/plastic you have in the back of the cabinet, I really like it

Yes, definitely use opaque. Regarding the waterslide, you NEED to print on a laser printer otherwise it will run.

The Skyscraper decal... I'm a graphic designer, and created the back image to match the sides. I made sure the colors were identical using a CMYK pantone swatch kit. I printed it out on styrene. There is another one out there for sale, but the alignment is off and it's unavailable.... So I made this. The other one doesn't have the halftone dots that match the plastics either. I was going to print and sell these but never got enough interest.

shadow_wall_(resized).jpg

#2914 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

The Skyscraper decal... I'm a graphic designer, and I was going to print and sell these but never got enough interest.

I have intrest in it sir

#2915 3 years ago

I'm interested too ^^ On which support would you print it?

#2916 3 years ago

I contacted judge-dreads-pinball and asked if he had the cityscape on hand. He said he had a few left so you might hit him up. I think it was roughly 15 bucks or something like that.

ebay.com link

#2917 3 years ago
Quoted from Luddite:

Thickness(/wear) of the coil stops, wear of the armature and wear in the crank arm arm pin hole are the things that affect the distance of travel of the diverter. When I replaced the crank arm of my right diverter, it became more snug fit and doesn't touch the sides of the ramp when tested manually, but it's pretty close call. I'm not sure it the inertia of the heavy diverter still makes the shaft to give up enough for the contact to happen. I'd like to put some cushions to the coil stops, but I'm out of ideas what material would hold in there. Any ideas?

Thanks for the info! Yes, I replaced the coil stops and the armatures which is why I was surprised they still hit the sides of the ramp. As far as your mention of cushions on the coil stops, I was hoping to find a slighting longer coil stop that would work but I don't know if anything would be compatible. If you find something that works please let us know!

Quoted from jawjaw:

Are they not supposed to touch? Just checked my Shadow that I just got and both diverters touch the sides. Also noticed I was missing a screw holding one of the phurbas. Hope is not hard to find a replacement in the right finish.
Edit - forgot to say your Shadow looks awesome!

You could be totally right, they may still touch regardless. I'm just trying to be super careful not to destroy these newly chromed ramps. As far as the phurba screws, I just ordered two screws from Marcos that I believe are direct replacement. Once I get them I'll let you know if they fit. By the way, thanks for the compliment. I may be doing a restoration thread similar to the thread I did for my BSD but it may be too similar.

Quoted from freddy:

use a small ribber as a bumper stop either on diverter or on the ramp to limit travel.
your game is looking good.

Thanks! Your idea of putting a rubber on the ramp is a good idea. I wonder if there is some flat piece of rubber I could attach to either side of both ramps somehow. Has anyone else in the thread put some type of rubber on the sides of their ramp?

#2918 3 years ago

What about one of these things...
http://www.joann.com/picture-frame-rubber-bumpers/5612999.html

Screen_Shot_2016-06-20_at_11.01.23_PM_(resized).png

#2919 3 years ago

Totally. I use these on mine. I think the side touching is inevitable.

#2920 3 years ago

Both diverters stays away from each side approx. 1mm on mine. Everything is completely original.

If I had a problem like your's I'd go for a longer coilstop amd maybe dremel it down a bit if it's to long.
It would be shame to glue ugly rubber stuff to that gorgeous ramp.

#2921 3 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

Shadow does not ghost or need non ghosting bulbs.

This claim has been bothering me, because I can definitely see the one regular LED in one of my inserts ghost (I have incandescents in all the other inserts). Ghosting is faint, but still definitely happening.

To finally investigate this some more, I took a hex editor, opened the LH-6 ROM image (the one I'm using) and tried to find the problematic lamp matrix driver code (presented here: http://emmytech.com/arcade/led_ghost_busting/cftbl_l4.lst.txt) And yes, same code IS there in the LH-6 ROM. It's not byte-to-byte, because that sample in the link is from CFTBL so referenced addresses are different, but the sequence of all the machine language op-codes matches so the logic of the code is same.

So, based on that and my own observations I would say that The Shadow does ghost and thus needs non-ghosting bulbs. Or if someone can explain the matter to be otherwise, please do. I'd like to know.

#2922 3 years ago

Hello guys one question, the skyscrapers back decal (or the one with the brick wall) is a simple adhesive or it is printed on some kind of plastic/plexiglass like those on the playfield? The Ebay seller has it in Vinyl sticker that has been laminated with mylar..it should be like this?

#2923 3 years ago
Quoted from DMC:

Totally. I use these on mine. I think the side touching is inevitable.

That is my backup plan for sure. Since they are translucent, I assume they don't stand out too much?

Quoted from someoneelse:

Both diverters stays away from each side approx. 1mm on mine. Everything is completely original.
If I had a problem like your's I'd go for a longer coilstop amd maybe dremel it down a bit if it's to long.
It would be shame to glue ugly rubber stuff to that gorgeous ramp.

My parts not being original might be the issue. I've noticed that a lot of the replacement parts I've been buying lately are either not great quality or not an accurate. Does anyone have a part number for a slightly longer coil stop that works in the Shadow diverters?

One more question, I've been getting a ton of air balls off the left stand ups. I know that it a pretty common problem from what I've read on this thread. I have them bent forward as far as they go but I still get nasty airballs that send the ball over the flippers or over the in-lane/out-lane ball guides. It seems almost guaranteed to happen when I backhand the left ramp. Does anyone have a permanent fix for this?

#2924 3 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Hello guys one question, the skyscrapers back decal (or the one with the brick wall) is a simple adhesive or it is printed on some kind of plastic/plexiglass like those on the playfield? The Ebay seller has it in Vinyl sticker that has been laminated with mylar..it should be like this?

I ordered one and was told it was a plastic. Will find out soon.

#2925 3 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

That is my backup plan for sure. Since they are translucent, I assume they don't stand out too much?

My parts not being original might be the issue. I've noticed that a lot of the replacement parts I've been buying lately are either not great quality or not an accurate. Does anyone have a part number for a slightly longer coil stop that works in the Shadow diverters?
One more question, I've been getting a ton of air balls off the left stand ups. I know that it a pretty common problem from what I've read on this thread. I have them bent forward as far as they go but I still get nasty airballs that send the ball over the flippers or over the in-lane/out-lane ball guides. It seems almost guaranteed to happen when I backhand the left ramp. Does anyone have a permanent fix for this?

both of my diverters touch in both directions as well, have never replaced the coil stops so not sure how they would be with new ones, always thought they were supposed to touch

as for the airballs have you replaced the backing foam on the targets? you could try that if not or add a thicker foam

#2926 3 years ago
Quoted from PunkPin:

both of my diverters touch in both directions as well, have never replaced the coil stops so not sure how they would be with new ones, always thought they were supposed to touch
as for the airballs have you replaced the backing foam on the targets? you could try that if not or add a thicker foam

Yeah, brand new foam from Marcos. I can try to find something more firm or thicker. What foam are you using?

#2927 3 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Yeah, brand new foam from Marcos. I can try to find something more firm or thicker. What foam are you using?

Replace the reinforced stand ups from Marcos. They will end your air balls. I tried the foam but didn't help much.

#2928 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Replace the reinforced stand ups from Marcos. They will end your air balls. I tried the foam but didn't help much.

Perfect, thanks! Do you still have to bend it forward? I assume its this one?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-6R

#2929 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I ordered one and was told it was a plastic. Will find out soon.

Mine is printed on a PVC plastic

1 week later
#2930 3 years ago

Having some trouble with my battlefield enterence drop target, sometimes it works flawlessly no matter how long I play, sometimes it works for a few games then stays down, others it does not work at all,

During test when trying to activate the target during times its not working I get a strange pulsing noise.

I've pulled and cleaned the mech and everything looks fine, any ideas where to be looking for the problem?

#2931 3 years ago
Quoted from PunkPin:

Having some trouble with my battlefield enterence drop target, sometimes it works flawlessly no matter how long I play, sometimes it works for a few games then stays down, others it does not work at all,
During test when trying to activate the target during times its not working I get a strange pulsing noise.
I've pulled and cleaned the mech and everything looks fine, any ideas where to be looking for the problem?

I had intermittent issues that I fixed when I disassembled and cleaned the target and adjusted the switch.

My original yellow target was very flexible and was inconsistent. After I replaced it with the harder plastic target, it was been working flawlessly. Much snappier and totally dependable. And looks way better too.

#2932 3 years ago
Quoted from PunkPin:

Having some trouble with my battlefield enterence drop target, sometimes it works flawlessly no matter how long I play, sometimes it works for a few games then stays down, others it does not work at all,
During test when trying to activate the target during times its not working I get a strange pulsing noise.
I've pulled and cleaned the mech and everything looks fine, any ideas where to be looking for the problem?

I had issues with mine and it turned out to be a faulty Q5 transistor on the Fliptronics board. I had that, it's pre-driver transistor and diode replaced and all is well.

#2933 3 years ago
Quoted from PunkPin:

Having some trouble with my battlefield enterence drop target, sometimes it works flawlessly no matter how long I play, sometimes it works for a few games then stays down, others it does not work at all,
During test when trying to activate the target during times its not working I get a strange pulsing noise.
I've pulled and cleaned the mech and everything looks fine, any ideas where to be looking for the problem?

Replace the microswitch, check the latch for the coil assembly, and the locking edge of the target.
Either the microswitch is out of alignment or contacts are used up, the coil latch is broken or bent, or the target needs replaced.
The "pulsing sound" is the game trying to reset the target and "get it up".

Check mechanicals, before electronics.
If it works reliably test mode, it is not a transistor unless you have solder point issues.

#2934 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Replace the microswitch, check the latch for the coil assembly, and the locking edge of the target.
Either the microswitch is out of alignment or contacts are used up, the coil latch is broken or bent, or the target needs replaced.
The "pulsing sound" is the game trying to reset the target and "get it up".
Check mechanicals, before electronics.
If it works reliably test mode, it is not a transistor unless you have solder point issues.

thank you all for the replys i will pull the mech back off and take a closer look at all parts target seems to be strong still but i didnt look at the locking edge, and i didnt check the travel of the coil reset arm, switch shows working in test but i do get the occasional service report for switch 55 the times its not working

#2935 3 years ago

Parting out friend's shadow and asked me to sell some parts for him since he doesn't have paypal account. I thought I should post here before listing on ebay to give pinsider a chance to grab them first. He will only sell them as a whole package only. Don't know why and didn't care to ask. He's asking $300 and that's for 4 rings and 2 phurbas. I think that's a reasonable price for the package you're getting seeing how hard it is to find rings these days. They are little dirty and needs little cleaning as it is used.

I can ask him to take some pics if you must see it. And please don't ask me about other parts for the machine, I'll disregard those pms. I'll list them for sale as he gives them to me to sell. Please be patient if I don't respond to your pm right away. Life is super busy right now due to my 1st baby and I'll answer you as fast as I can. Paypal only. thanks.

#2936 3 years ago

Anyone know where I can find one of the screws that hold the phurba down on the diverter? This was suggested in another thread but not sure if it is right. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4006-01003-04Y

I tried my local hardware store but no success. Anyone ever track one down that fits and brass color?

#2937 3 years ago

On a side note, I hate when the guys in the hardware store ask what it is for. What difference does it make when I have a sample of the exact screw I am looking for? I tell them it's for a pinball machine and get that look.

#2938 3 years ago

Those are yellow zinc-cadmium plated. Cadmium is on the hit-list with the EPA (and especially California) so the manufacturers have gone away from using cadmium in any manufactured component. Brass would be a good alternative - although even BRASS is on the California hit list as a toxic material - so you're probably stuck with stainless steel or zinc dichromate plated hardware.

Upside to stainless steel: It never rusts. Downside: Your magnetic tools won't hold the part.

#2939 3 years ago

What about this switch, helping detecting balls on the right diverted left ramp? Does it work well as advertised? Is this a custom switch, or does it have a part number?

ebay.com link » Shadow Pinball Left Ramp Switch Fix To Stop Air Balls Missing Made Shots

#2940 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Also, I saw one set of six and another of 12 plastic protectors. Which one do you recommend? Where to get it from?

up

#2941 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

sorry for the simple question, but better to avoid mistake:
New balls for TS: low magnetic or standard?

up

#2942 3 years ago

I would get the standard since there is a magnet in the game.

#2943 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

sorry for the simple question, but better to avoid mistake:
New balls for TS: low magnetic or standard?

Not sure if the other poster is joking, so just to be sure: low magnetic is what you want.

#2944 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

What about this switch, helping detecting balls on the right diverted left ramp? Does it work well as advertised? Is this a custom switch, or does it have a part number?
ebay.com link ยป Shadow Pinball Left Ramp Switch Fix To Stop Air Balls Missing Made Shots

That will work. I have more or less the exact same switch mounted - but I just used a standard WPC rollover switch and bent the wire straight myself. Registers 99% of the time.

#2945 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

So they need to be transparent of course. I saw some set that looks like soft blue. Also, I saw one set of six and another of 12 plastic protectors. Which one do you recommend? Where to get it from?

I don't know of any 6 piece set, but I always buy the ones from Pintbits. I like how thin they are and they do a great job of cutting them not to big like others sometimes do. They are crystal clear.

#2946 3 years ago

I brought home a Shadow two weeks ago. When I played it a couple of years ago, I didn't think much of it, but now that I understand the game... wow! I'm having a lot of fun with it.

I'm having a minor problem with the drop target for the battlefield, and while it's not necessary to read the whole thread, if one of you could check out the linked post below and get back to me with your thoughts I would appreciate it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-problem-with-drop-target-to-enter-battlefield#post-3254124

Quoted from someoneelse:

Not sure if the other poster is joking, so just to be sure: low magnetic is what you want.

Seriously? Citation? I don't see anything about that in the manual.

#2947 3 years ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

Seriously? Citation? I don't see anything about that in the manual.

I would guess so. Low magnetic (=hard to magnetize) pinballs were not available back then.

#2948 3 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Low magnetic (=hard to magnetize)

Ah- I thought low magnetic would have indicated a higher non-ferrous content.

#2949 3 years ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

Ah- I thought low magnetic would have indicated a higher non-ferrous content.

It does!

It's enough to still let them be magnetic, but so much less that it takes much longer to magnetize them.

#2950 3 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

I don't know of any 6 piece set, but I always buy the ones from Pintbits. I like how thin they are and they do a great job of cutting them not to big like others sometimes do. They are crystal clear.

How to install those 12 set? I mean, usually the plastic protectors are installed UNDER the plastics, right? But the biggest risk in TS are balls falling down from the battlefield. Did you install the protectors on TOP of the plastics near the battlefield?

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