Currently, I light my battlefield with a frosted 20 smd strip found in our Matrix
Product line, with a brightness adjuster, and Matrix bulb. I do the same to the other side. I dim them both to the brightness I want to achieve.
Looks fantastic, IMO.
To get longer wire lengths as asked earlier, Matrix has multiple wire lengths, that plug right in. I am sorry that this was not noticed. Clean the underside of the plastic trim and press and stick facing down. This stays on all the time, but when dimmed, it's sweet.
45 degree micro strips....just passed first inspection, and are insane at what can be done. As this sample arrived 2 days ago, we have tested on a ramp, only by hand, and I'm thrilled. Production is happening, these and much more will be tripling the stuff in Matrix.
Regarding other methods, such as Only
when the ball is in the battlefield....
Well first. I have seen people put the strip
on the metal bar, facing forward.
When I get the strength, I'll do this and take pics, but I have been working on 6
Different, new, and not seen before spotlights. I can't say more, but enough that they will fill lots of demands for many games, including Shadow.
These are all in CAD, and pre proto.
I may have something to share in a couple weeks. Currently, these are
always on.
To create an on only when in use,
I do have a board, not in proto yet, that
Might do the job. It's again a universal use, for many games.
The short answer, is yes, someone could or should make a custom board, charge like $100 for it, sell maybe 50, and then
trickled in orders.
I suppose it may not have happened, as the work/reward, may not be desirable.

I hear weekly in emails, great ideas, things to make, it just takes more time and money, then those that say, "make it"
Some products I have now in testing started over a year ago.
How to do it faster? Work more or pay more.
Some products, I sneek into sample production, rather then throwing 5k at.
This keeps prices down, and I sometimes
feel a GB pin is better then another product. Sorry about that.
Whether it's Matrix Strips, or new spots,
Both are designed to be plug and play, minutes to install, under $20, and can be
used in any game.
That's my goal at least, and no harm in
trying out.
A $100 mod that isn't perfect,
with a couple negative posts, would be so detrimental, I error on the side of caution.
Even a post that states the wires aren't long enough, created a few emails, and all that happened, was a product was not seen.
So plenty ways to light right now, and see
if it's the look you want.
There are pictures in the Matrix section of Shadow lit by nom frosted strip.

Ary

That's a solid score! Learn to hit the ramps safely and then use them to always direct the ball to the flipper you need it on.

For me control and the extreme flow in the game come from mastering the ramp shots. I also find the loop very important to if you intend to score high.

There's some more twists to avoiding drains, e.g. try never to let the ball fall off the Battlefield to the right, it should always drop from the left side of the paddle. Don't shoot for the Sanctum if lock is not lit, it'll get hit anyway along the way to activate the lock.

Use the Battlefield to take some speed out of the game if things get to hectic. Also make use of the Jackpot doubling and tripling, it'll boost your score and parking the balls in the saucers massively reduces the pace during multiballs.

Ha, it is set to 5 balls.. the scoring is not really bothering me its more the balltime. I feel I may never get towards the end of the game. When I just miss either of the ramps a STM is the consequence. Also air balls flying over the flippers when backhanding the left ramp and hitting the left target. Lol there are so many ways to loose the ball without time to react. indeed, when aimng for targets in the top center, there is also big risk on STM's. Guess practise practise and more practise is required!
Thanks for the advice all!

The ball should no get air off of that left target. Mine was doing this when I first got it as well. I cut some new foam and glued it in and also made sure the target was bent forward slightly, never happened again.

This is what you need. Add these reinforced target switches and you shouldn't have any trouble with airballs.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-6R

Just beat Kahn for the first time. Only took me five years.

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I seem to get alot of air balls off the targets on the left ramp, bouncing sometimes right over the lane guides and draining, I've tried several different thickness's of foam behind the targets but nothing seems to be working, any advice is appreciated.

I use reinforced targets from Pinball resource. Still get airballs on location though. I normally try to backhand that ramp, much easier.

I also got a shocking start with TS when just got it and fired it up. I couldnt do anything good and ball time was ridiculously low. I felt very bad about it and thought the pin was over hyped, it played horrible.. In few days I set it up right and learned some rules, learned where and when to stay away from certain shots... At some point the game became amazing and now I think it's really a very TOP game.
I also have a BSD and in my opinion BSD is even harder. I prefer TS (hard pin!), I feel like its totally based on my skills, if I play well and i am focused I do well; when I am slightly off, I perform badly. While Dracula it's a drain monster and sometimes I wonder if when I have a very good ball it's me or I have been just lucky with the ball not abruptly draining... (although BSD not up and running at the moment, so it's possible I just become better at pinball in general).

A problem during the Final Battle: when enter the VUK to go the miniplayfield, around 5/6 lights are automatically switched off. This makes the Final Battle easier (although not defeated Khan yet!). I read that this shoudl happen if the target is broken. Which is not: I have first to hit it once, then I can enter the VUK. But for sure there is some problem there: any idea?

Finally joined the club!!!

Got some stuff to fix: flipper rebuilds, upper right GI totally out (not a fuse), sticky drops on the battle field, a few flashers out...
But all in all its in decent shape and we are thrilled to have it in the lineup.

I am in need of an original translite and speaker panel. My wife likes them more than any of the alternates and strangely our came with a beat up translite and a Aurich speaker panel. If anyone has a set they can part with you would make her day!

Cheers!

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Hi , not an owner but thinking of becoming one. Have a question ....... Is shadow considered a deep game ? I saw "great ruleset" in the ratings but wondering if it's deep and are there a lot of shots?
Thank u

I would swap my original speaker panel for your aurich one. I need the translite also though. I would swap my translite also for the aurich one.

It's not super deep. There are some 6 or so modes. Starting them each, getting the two multiballs and defending the upper playfield gets you to final battle. It's a shame that vengeance wasn't worked into that requirement. There's some decent mode stacking. Shots are strategic due to the user controlled ramp diverters.

I have a set for sale in the marketplace.

PM me if interested.

I just finished a top side tear down and repair. New plastics. New lighting. New translite and speaker panel. Playfield completely cleaned waxed and polished.

The Shadow is playing and looking great now!

Here are before and after shots of it lit up.

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Looks good Bos98! Did you put an LED strip on the apron?

It does have 9 shots (targets not counted) which is above average. Actually it's 11 shots if you count each way of the ramps separately...

On a game as tough as this one the goals to get to final battle are quite a challenge plus Final Battle is a "real" wizard mode, not just a "everything scores multiball".

Any lack of depth is made up for by it's sheer difficulty.

Many owners I know have never completely finished the game.

Yep. A Comet 10 SMD frosted matrix strip

Awesome ! Thx everyone. I played the game at a party and really enjoyed it. It's got a unique layout. Hope to be in the club

I just sent a photo of my LEDs on The Shadow to Art @ Comet. He said people had been asking about lighting the battlefield.

This is what I used: http://www.cometpinball.com/MATRIX-10-SMD-5050-6-3V-LIGHTED-STRIPS-p/10smd6.3vstrip.htm

I went Frosted Purple.

It looks great, lights up the plastic well and was easy to wire. I did also buy an extension wire, I think a 6"

http://www.cometpinball.com/MATRIX-Wires-p/mtxconnect.htm

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I additionally used some Matrix strips in the back box to more properly light the Aurich Translite.

Also is someone willing to burn me the latest Rom? I am on revision 2

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Wouldn't the ball hit/damage the LED strip when it goes past the kicker?

It is fairly sturdy and the top of the light strip is like a padded rubber. But honestly if it breaks there is a quick connect on it and the part is $3.95

I keep a bunch on hand in various colors. If/When it breaks it will just be replaced.

Thank you for sharing this with Everyone!

We get so busy, we dont get time to let others know all the cool stuff one can do!

In addition, I imagine our new 12V could grab the flasher, and give a second color on battle hits,
on the playfield, backbox, or anywhere else!

I had been meaning to do this myself, but need help even lifting a playfield these days.

Love the look you created!

An Imagination and Matrix.....Endless Lighting Possibilities!

Hmmm a 12v strip on the flasher... interesting idea, maybe a green one when I order my bayonet bulbs.

Bos98, ever consider putting a yellow or warm white LED bulb behind the lantern on the translite? It adds a nice touch I think.

I use a slow blinking warm white from Comet Pinball. Pretty cool, looks like a flickering lamp.

Nice I will give it a try.

Ok, Shadow fans... let's get some discussion going. What are your top 3 modes, and why?

1. Discover Hotel Monolith (easily my fav, multiple phases, and high scoring potential)

2. The Beryllium Sphere (love the zap and tension)

3. Escape Underwater Doom (cool scoring)

I like the dots and sound when Underwater Doom starts, but I am always going for the video mode because of the extra ball and I find it to be really fun. I also ignore the modes for the most part, it is the downside of a more objective based game. I am mostly just interested in getting to the final battle, so I want to start the modes, but then when the modes are active I don't really find myself attempting to complete them, there just isn't that much incentive to shoot some of the shots, especially anything on the left ramp. Sometimes I'll find myself going for some of the shots, but I usually regret it when I drain because of it. The modes aren't particularly distinctive either, especially not next to my Judge Dredd which has modes with a lot of personality and distinct shots and objectives. So when a mode starts I am usually thinking about getting to the battlefield or hitting loops.

Anyone have a DCS sound board they are willing to sell? I am guessing someone has upgraded to a Pinsound. My board has a bad amp and the previous "repair" jobs done by others have basically left the one I have unfixable.

Trying to keep cost down, but if I have to do it I will spend the $350 for a pinsound.

Nothing is unfixable. Send the board to rob from lock when lit or Chris hibbler

I found a board for under $125 that is 100% working.

My existing board has been so hacked on it is scary. I bought caps 2x TDA2030a and sockets and op amp chips. I will give it ago and if I fix it I have a hot spare.

Had an extra Comit led strip so thought I'd add to the topper. Turned out great!

Is that being run off the 906 flasher in the backbox, and if so how?

Not the cleanest setup but no one would know except for owner. Comit led is matrix so wire goes through bottom of car inside back of cabinet through vent, and into backbox flasher (linked also to middle flasher on back of playfield). Wires were secured to top inside of backbox to make it as clean as possible. I like comit led matrix series because they are plug and play and can always be taken out when ready to sell.

I used to do the same, then found the way to make modes interesting: I raised the timing to 45 to 60 seconds (and 45 million) depending on the mode. With default timing, in order to complete the mode, you have to shoot like crazy to the proper arrow shots in a big hurry, taking often huge risks: so you just end up ignoring the mode shots most of the time. But with longer mode time, you can set up your shots, having some more time, in a much more strategic way. It is still hard and quite rare to complete the modes, but in this way I find myself constantly engaged in different things to do and it's just amazing.

Farley: 45 secs
Guilty: 50 secs
Sphere: 60 secs
Escape: 45 millions

Question: I had to solder a wire and now can't remember how to re-assembly the 1 drop target assembly.

The dark rectangle goes on top, then the switch underneath, then the transparent rectangle underneath, and finally the tiny rectangle in the bottom. Correct?

The question is: where the iron part of the main assembly (not in the picture) goes? between the switch and the transparent plastic? Or between the transparent plastic and the small rectangle?

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My Precious....

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What's the deal with those rings? I LED'ed my machine but the bulbs in the rings are bi-pin "grain of wheat" style bulbs, very tiny. The LEDs that came with the kit for the four rings are too large, actually the smaller wedge style bulbs.

Did they change the design of the ring to accommodate a larger bulb - and my machine didn't get the new version? Just guessing.

Anyone?

Marcos sells the little bulbs. The Rings however are unobtainium and I found the one I needed!

Actually just wondering if there is an LED replacement for the incandescent bulb. Those four are the only lamps left to LED-ize.

No one makes those rings? I replaced two over the years - should have kept the broken ones now. I could've glued them back together!

No one makes the rings! And 4 incandescent bulbs that size won't hurt anything.

Nope. I had the same frustration LEDing my Shadow, but you just have to live with it (or modify the rings to take LEDs -- there's a thread around here somewhere but the cost/benefit never seemed worth it to me).

Yeah, I'll leave them alone. Minor difference anyway. And, an LED is directional so the jewel would probably be too dim even with a high brightness LED.

Is the voltage to these lights 6.3V? If so, I have a proto Im working on coming in
shortly that may be perfect.

Rick will make them, he's been announcing that since what feels like decades but nothing's happening.

Every time a fake one surfaces Rick pops up out of nowhere and lets us know that they will be available "very soon".

really good idea with the led strip for the mini playfield,think i gonna do the same