(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Stuieb84
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#2701 3 years ago

Art (Oldpinguy) from Comet pinball was working on some frosted strips with a 45 degree angle to reduce glare. I'm not sure if they are available yet. Perhaps he can advise?

#2702 3 years ago

Hi guys, I did a cover recently of the title track 'Silverball' with my dad from the Barenaked Ladies album of the same name as we're huge fans. Our machine features heavily in the video!

The Shadow knows....you will play this again! Or maybe not!

#2703 3 years ago

Some images of the trunk on my machine. Note the cable-tied rubber ring on the right side - seems to work fine.
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Close-up. Looks like it's time to replace some rubber parts.
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#2704 3 years ago

OOPS, sorry, wrong thread. Belongs on ToM. Slip of the mouse!

#2705 3 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

OOPS, sorry, wrong thread. Belongs on ToM. Slip of the mouse!

I lol'd

#2706 3 years ago

Yep, mind's the second thing to go.....

#2707 3 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

Is there a way to increase the overall range of motion of the upper flipper, so that it will rest flush yet extend sufficiently to feed the Kahn hole when it's help up to catch a left orbit shot? Or do you just have to chose between an ideal rest position and an ideal up position?

To follow up on this question, how about replacing the coil stop with one of a different length? I believe the Shadow upper flipper calls for coil stop A-12390:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=272

Would either of these options give me a bit more range of motion in the upper flipper?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=273
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4005

#2708 3 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

how about replacing the coil stop with one of a different length?

Yes this will work, but which one? More travel= shorter coil stop. Somewhere there is a post showing all the different stop lengths for the different years.

#2709 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes this will work, but which one? More travel= shorter coil stop. Somewhere there is a post showing all the different stop lengths for the different years.

Thanks for the pointer. I found this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flipper-travel-1

Which pointed to this discussion of flipper parts (including coil stop length) on this page:
http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/flippers/index5.html

Per that page, it sounds like Part No. A-12111 (http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=273) is slightly shorter than the stock A-12390, so maybe I'll give the A-12111 a try.

#2710 3 years ago

I'm going to shop a Shadow soon. At this point I'm thinking I'll use purple Titan rubber (flippers & rings) but I'd like thoughts on other colors that might work well with the game.

#2711 3 years ago
Quoted from mjthompson:

I'm going to shop a Shadow soon. At this point I'm thinking I'll use purple Titan rubber (flippers & rings) but I'd like thoughts on other colors that might work well with the game.

Purple is the way to go for me.

I like the purple rubbers and green LEDs in the mode inserts.

#2712 3 years ago
Quoted from mjthompson:

I'm going to shop a Shadow soon. At this point I'm thinking I'll use purple Titan rubber (flippers & rings) but I'd like thoughts on other colors that might work well with the game.

Classic black looks fantastic. I've tried purple (Superbands, not Titan) but it always bugged me a little that the shades didn't match. Maybe Titan's purple is a closer match though.

#2713 3 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

Classic black looks fantastic.

The problem w/ black rubber...gameplay isn't as fast as using white rubbers.

The black from the rubber transfers itself to the playfield in no time.

#2714 3 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

The problem w/ black rubber...gameplay isn't as fast as using white rubbers.
The black from the rubber transfers itself to the playfield in no time.

I've got black Titan rings and have been very pleased with them. The black rubbers they replaced did like to shed, I'll agree!

#2715 3 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

The problem w/ black rubber...gameplay isn't as fast as using white rubbers.
The black from the rubber transfers itself to the playfield in no time.

Quoted from fosaisu:

I've got black Titan rings and have been very pleased with them. The black rubbers they replaced did like to shed, I'll agree!

Right, that was my thought as well... the black Titan rings won't cause the mess that traditional black rubber causes.

#2716 3 years ago
Quoted from mjthompson:

I'm going to shop a Shadow soon. At this point I'm thinking I'll use purple Titan rubber (flippers & rings) but I'd like thoughts on other colors that might work well with the game.

I do translucent on all my games and love it! Regardless, change the star posts and flasher domes to purple, you won't be disappointed.

#2717 3 years ago
Quoted from mjthompson:

I'm going to shop a Shadow soon. At this point I'm thinking I'll use purple Titan rubber (flippers & rings) but I'd like thoughts on other colors that might work well with the game.

check out PaulyB18 on twitch he has a shadow restore going on.

#2718 3 years ago

Help me light up my Battlefield!

I'ts too dark to play in a dark room.

I bought some LED strips from comet, but the wire they come with is super short. It's definitely intended for use on top of the playfield, and cant reach up above the battlefield upper PF.

Initially I cut off their connectors and soldered longer wire, planning to run wire underneath and up through the back from one of the (4) GI lights that is along the loop, under the BF playfield. When I plugged this in it caused flicker and 'put out' the the rest of the GI around it. So, that will not work.

I really want to get this done and button up this game. Thanks in advance.

#2719 3 years ago

I'll be a new member starting tomorrow!!! I never played this game but bought it cuz I love Brian Eddy games. Hopefully it won't disappoint and become a keeper. Anyone have a spare Aurich set willing to part with?

#2720 3 years ago
Quoted from i_b_flippin:

I'll be a new member starting tomorrow!!! I never played this game but bought it cuz I love Brian Eddy games. Hopefully it won't disappoint and become a keeper. Anyone have a spare Aurich set willing to part with?

There is one on ebay right now

#2721 3 years ago
Quoted from BulkOfTheSeries:

There is one on ebay right now

can you send me the link? Can find it on ebay. thanks.
Any other parts for the machine I should buy for that just in case incident?

#2722 3 years ago
Quoted from i_b_flippin:

can you send me the link? Can find it on ebay. thanks.
Any other parts for the machine I should buy for that just in case incident?

you're right, I don't see it either. Maybe it was me searching for sold parts? IDK. Try PMing him, see if he has 1 left?

as for what you need:

-Sanctum wall ($20 on Marco)
-Mylar patches for the wireform drops into the two in-lanes, and sanctum magnet spot
-be prepared to clean the back 4 targets of the Battlefield PF
-I would STRONGLY consider the color DMD, especially if you get the Aurich kit
-long microswitch for the left (lower) wireform that crosses the playfield
-LEDs

#2723 3 years ago

about the long microswitch, is it for avoiding the standard switch not registering fast balls (left ramp, right diverted)? It happens sometimes on mine. Which switch is the best one to help proper registration?

#2724 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

about the long microswitch, is it for avoiding the standard switch not registering fast balls (left ramp, right diverted)? It happens sometimes on mine. Which switch is the best one to help proper registration?

Search around on Pinside.

All solutions are based on long switchblades (yes, they are meant to improve read reliability) so the trigger is moved to the left when the ball travels more stable.
I think the most reliable solution is the one where the complete switch mounting plate is prolonged to the left by using some plexi. The switch is then mounted about an inch further to the left of the original mounting plate.

On my Shadow I just used one of the switches you would find as a WPC rollover switch, bent the blade (actually it's a wire actuator in my case) to be straight, tried around a little and it ended up being approx. 95% reliable. Just wanted to test it actually, but I left it that way.

#2725 3 years ago

Did aurich sell out of the translites? Last I heard he had a number of them left unclaimed?

#2727 3 years ago

Was wondering if anyone may know how to tighten the black post here? The left is loose, right one is not. This is the bracket that attaches to the playfield and the battlefield screws into the left 'loose' post. Maybe a dumb newb question, thanks for any assistance!

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#2728 3 years ago

I have a problem with the minifield kicker: it starts ok, but it often slightly bends on one side and it become less responsive or slower on kicking or it does not kick at all. but suddenly it starts working normally, then again bit bent and not kicking well. all this within the same battle. I get the error dot "battle kicker opto not working". So it's the opto that it's not working reliably. can I attempt something to fix the problem?

#2729 3 years ago

On my Shadow I see I have red coil on the left flipper (FL11630) and blue coil (FL11629) on the right flipper. The manual calls blue for both.

The red one is weaker, right?
Is the manual correct, and the stock Shadow has two blue coils?

#2730 3 years ago

found another issue: the target to access the miniplafield is supposed to be hit once and dropped. Then the entry is open and you can shoot again to enter the miniplayfiled. But sometimes when I hit the yellow target for the first time, the ball manage to directly go past it. Its like the target is very sensitive and when touched slightly it immediately fall and let the arriving ball directly go past itself. How to adjust this?

#2731 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

On my Shadow I see I have red coil on the left flipper (FL11630) and blue coil (FL11629) on the right flipper. The manual calls blue for both.

The red one is weaker, right?

FL-11753 - Used with short flippers and close shots <<<<< weakest

FL-11722 - Used for close shots near drop targets

FL-11630 - The standard, most commonly used coil

FL-15411 - Used for long playfield shots

FL-11629 - Used for long shots and high ramps <<<<< strongest

#2732 3 years ago

Joining the club. Picked up this beauty about a week or so ago. Shopped it, added full Comit LEDs, added lighted purple star posts, translucent rubbers, added purple flashers and domes, added light strips under battlefield and in front of battlefield (to light the bat). Came with new legs, Aurich package, back city scene plastic, flipper mod, Shadow car topper, and Shadow figurines. Hoping to add color DMD and mirror sides at some point. So much purple and blue, pictures do it no justice.

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#2733 3 years ago
Quoted from ZMeny:

Joining the club. Picked up this beauty about a week or so ago. Shopped it, added full Comit LEDs, added lighted purple star posts, translucent rubbers, added purple flashers and domes, added light strips under battlefield and in front of battlefield (to light the bat). Came with new legs, Aurich package, back city scene plastic, flipper mod, Shadow car topper, and Shadow figurines. Hoping to add color DMD and mirror sides at some point. So much purple and blue, pictures do it no justice.

Care to share your lighting the battlfield? I'd like to do the same and would love to see/know how you accomplished it.

#2734 3 years ago

The battlefield pf still not lit up great but I put in a short Comit frosted white led strip behind the bat, so it at least lights the bat up and the nice plastic behind it. Comit green led strip under the battlefield to add detail to it, again not a lot of light though. I think it looks good overall and helps a little. Idea was taken from other TS owners.

#2735 3 years ago

question for the Shadow owners with full led setup: how is it when you play it? is it disturbing for the eyes?

I have several pinball machines, but none ledded. On my Shadow I only put led on the 6 six scenes inserts, and its fine. looking at the pictures here, I have to say that fully ledded machines look great. But I am a player, more than a collector, so I wonder how it is to play machines with so many leds in your face...

#2736 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

question for the Shadow owners with full led setup: how is it when you play it? is it disturbing for the eyes?
I have several pinball machines, but none ledded. On my Shadow I only put led on the 6 six scenes inserts, and its fine. looking at the pictures here, I have to say that fully ledded machines look great. But I am a player, more than a collector, so I wonder how it is to play machines with so many leds in your face...

Totally depends on what your preferences are and what kind of LEDs you install. You can buy LEDs that put out roughly the same amount of light as an incandescent, all the way up to many times the brightness. I gave my LED list earlier in this thread -- it brightened up the game a bit, but my goal was to retain a relatively "natural" look and I think I achieved that well. Others go all-in with super-bright LEDs and colored GI -- not my cup of tea, but that's the beauty of customization!

I also installed the LED OCD board to maintain fade effects. Expensive but totally worth it if you're going to the trouble of LEDing you machine.

#2737 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

question for the Shadow owners with full led setup: how is it when you play it? is it disturbing for the eyes?
I have several pinball machines, but none ledded. On my Shadow I only put led on the 6 six scenes inserts, and its fine. looking at the pictures here, I have to say that fully ledded machines look great. But I am a player, more than a collector, so I wonder how it is to play machines with so many leds in your face...

I think it looks great in LED's, here's how I decked my Shadow out:

-Shadow is a darker game, so I didn't want to make it any darker than necessary. My Shadow is based on the old time radio show (not the movie from the 90s... Thank you Aurich) I aimed to use mostly Comet Pinball warm whites since it complements the golden, art deco motif of the pinball's golden age of radio theme. Warm white also doesn't distort the colors of the plastics.
-I added some green LED's under the mini-playfield. I wanted to get an eerie glow coming up through the cracks... Like the old green-eye radios.
-Most of the purple comes from the flasher, post lights, and mode inserts. I didn't add any into the GI.

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#2738 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

question for the Shadow owners with full led setup: how is it when you play it? is it disturbing for the eyes?
I have several pinball machines, but none ledded. On my Shadow I only put led on the 6 six scenes inserts, and its fine. looking at the pictures here, I have to say that fully ledded machines look great. But I am a player, more than a collector, so I wonder how it is to play machines with so many leds in your face...

I color matched on the inserts with a few exceptions. I put purple in the arrow that points to the Khan saucer.
I used green in the modes instead of Purple. I though it popped more and with purple flashers, there's tons of purple going on. I put every color of bulb in there for a while, and green was what I liked best.

Don't put cool whites in the flashers under the caps or it'll be too bright.

LEDs are really easy and not very expensive unless you get lazy and buy a kit.

The COLOR DMD is basically a must for this thing, especially if you spent the $ for the Aurich and LEDs. After you sell the old DMD it only cost you ~ $200.

#2739 3 years ago
Quoted from BulkOfTheSeries:

I color matched on the inserts with a few exceptions. I put purple in the arrow that points to the Khan saucer.
I used green in the modes instead of Purple. I though it popped more and with purple flashers, there's tons of purple going on. I put every color of bulb in there for a while, and green was what I liked best.
Don't put cool whites in the flashers under the caps or it'll be too bright.
LEDs are really easy and not very expensive unless you get lazy and buy a kit.
The COLOR DMD is basically a must for this thing, especially if you spent the $ for the Aurich and LEDs. After you sell the old DMD it only cost you ~ $200.

Do you have a photo of the inserts with the green leds? I'd be curious to see what it looks like.

#2740 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Do you have a photo of the inserts with the green leds? I'd be curious to see what it looks like.

You know, I don't but I will take one later tonight (or tomorrow) and throw it up here.

#2741 3 years ago

Camera phone with minimal effort so not the best but there's an idea

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#2742 3 years ago

Joined the Club yesterday! Needs some TLC and 1 Ring which is missing.

The GI needs to be completely repinned and the board needs some love.

If anyone can help out with tracking down a ring to replace the one that is missing I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks!

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#2743 3 years ago

After fixing the kicker issue i finally got a few, well 50+ games on it. I must say that Shadow is the most difficult game I have ever owned or played. It is sitting next to my Dracula, which also has a reputation of being difficult..but compared to Shadow, Dracula is peanuts. I have not been reading rules which i never do, and thus on Shadow I still do not have clue what to shoot for. There is no time to read the DMD, for me at least lol. For sure its one of the fastest games out there. Shortest ball times ever. Multiball(s) ... before getting into a certain level of control most of the times 1 or 2 already drained, the side drains are easy/cheap, let alone the STM's. Wheew..its a real challenge this one. At this point 1,1 billion is my maximum, not even close to finishing the game.
What are your experiences?

#2744 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinbally_1968:

After fixing the kicker issue i finally got a few, well 50+ games on it. I must say that Shadow is the most difficult game I have ever owned or played. It is sitting next to my Dracula, which also has a reputation of being difficult..but compared to Shadow, Dracula is peanuts. I have not been reading rules which i never do, and thus on Shadow I still do not have clue what to shoot for. There is no time to read the DMD, for me at least lol. For sure its one of the fastest games out there. Shortest ball times ever. Multiball(s) ... before getting into a certain level of control most of the times 1 or 2 already drained, the side drains are easy/cheap, let alone the STM's. Wheew..its a real challenge this one. At this point 1,1 billion is my maximum, not even close to finishing the game.
What are your experiences?

1.1 billion after 50 games sounds pretty good to me! Keep playing, you'll get the hang of it.

#2745 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinbally_1968:

After fixing the kicker issue i finally got a few, well 50+ games on it. I must say that Shadow is the most difficult game I have ever owned or played. It is sitting next to my Dracula, which also has a reputation of being difficult..but compared to Shadow, Dracula is peanuts. I have not been reading rules which i never do, and thus on Shadow I still do not have clue what to shoot for. There is no time to read the DMD, for me at least lol. For sure its one of the fastest games out there. Shortest ball times ever. Multiball(s) ... before getting into a certain level of control most of the times 1 or 2 already drained, the side drains are easy/cheap, let alone the STM's. Wheew..its a real challenge this one. At this point 1,1 billion is my maximum, not even close to finishing the game.
What are your experiences?

It starts out really hard like that but gets easier as you figure out where to shoot and where to stay away from. With the different objectives that need to be met it makes you always think about what the optimal play is and that's always changing as you progress through a game.

#2746 3 years ago

Damnit. New issue today. The paddle up on the battlfield is giving me 1 or 2 hits on the ball then the ball is just sitting on it, and it returns to the middle and the ball falls out.

My test mode isn't giving me any errors. Should it be? Is this an opto?

#2747 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinbally_1968:

After fixing the kicker issue i finally got a few, well 50+ games on it. I must say that Shadow is the most difficult game I have ever owned or played. It is sitting next to my Dracula, which also has a reputation of being difficult..but compared to Shadow, Dracula is peanuts. I have not been reading rules which i never do, and thus on Shadow I still do not have clue what to shoot for. There is no time to read the DMD, for me at least lol. For sure its one of the fastest games out there. Shortest ball times ever. Multiball(s) ... before getting into a certain level of control most of the times 1 or 2 already drained, the side drains are easy/cheap, let alone the STM's. Wheew..its a real challenge this one. At this point 1,1 billion is my maximum, not even close to finishing the game.
What are your experiences?

Shadow is a tough game to get set up properly but when set up correctly, a solid shot to left orbit, hold upper flipper up, should cause ball to bounce into the Kahn mode start. That makes the game tons easier. You can get through the modes that way.

One of my favorite combos is when Kahn mb is one rollover from being started and you get a skill shot for Mongol. Then it's plunge, left ramp Mongol start, left orbit to collect Mongol, hold flipper to start Kahn mb.

Getting the upper flipper bounce to mode start working involves having a rebuilt upper flipper so that there is no looseness that takes the energy from the ball.

#2748 3 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

Shadow is a tough game to get set up properly but when set up correctly, a solid shot to left orbit, hold upper flipper up, should cause ball to bounce into the Kahn mode start. That makes the game tons easier. You can get through the modes that way.
One of my favorite combos is when Kahn mb is one rollover from being started and you get a skill shot for Mongol. Then it's plunge, left ramp Mongol start, left orbit to collect Mongol, hold flipper to start Kahn mb.
Getting the upper flipper bounce to mode start working involves having a rebuilt upper flipper so that there is no looseness that takes the energy from the ball.

I asked this a few days ago but roused your nemisis regarding upper flipper alignment instead of you - if you've rebuilt the upper flipper do you find it still protrudes out at all into the right orbit lane when you've got it adjusted to angle left orbit shots into the Khan hole? That's been my experience but I do need to rebuild all three flippers so maybe that will change things.

#2749 3 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

I asked this a few days ago but roused your nemisis regarding upper flipper alignment instead of you - if you've rebuilt the upper flipper do you find it still protrudes out at all into the right orbit lane when you've got it adjusted to angle left orbit shots into the Khan hole? That's been my experience but I do need to rebuild all three flippers so maybe that will change things.

Before the rebuild, the flipper significantly protruded outward to accomplish the orbit bounce. After the rebuild and replacing the nylon bushing that goes into the playfield, it is almost perfectly aligned with the ball guide rail and does not appear to significantly protrude out. I also out a red regular rubber on this flipper, which is more bouncy. The lowers have Titan silicon rubbers. It should also be possible to hit the shadow loop and hold the flipper for mode start.

#2750 3 years ago
Quoted from BulkOfTheSeries:

Damnit. New issue today. The paddle up on the battlfield is giving me 1 or 2 hits on the ball then the ball is just sitting on it, and it returns to the middle and the ball falls out.
My test mode isn't giving me any errors. Should it be? Is this an opto?

I had the same issue a while back.
Make sure the opto brackets are 90 degrees off of the mini playfield.
Mine were bent upwards a little and the optos were staying closed by the transmitter(white) reflecting off of the playfield glass.

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