(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

6 years ago



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  • 6,768 posts
  • 563 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by woody76
  • Topic is favorited by 194 Pinsiders

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There are 6768 posts in this topic. You are on page 50 of 136.
#2451 4 years ago

Yes it should lift out once the screws are removed.

#2452 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Someone may have replaced the set screws over the years with the incorrect ones.
You want the CUP POINT screws, not the more common Cone Point.

setScrews_diag_(resized).png

Are you able to buy the cup point screws as a cap screw anywhere, similar to this one at Marco (I think the Marco one is a cone point) ? http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4010-01066-06

#2453 4 years ago

Remove the burrs from the shaft with a file, then lube it. It will come out then.

#2454 4 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Are you able to buy the cup point screws as a cap screw anywhere, similar to this one at Marco (I think the Marco one is a cone point) ? http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4010-01066-06

Often cup point machine screws have square heads, but someone like Grainger or Fastenal probably have them in cap heads.

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#2455 4 years ago

Thanks Vid. I wonder why cup point tips are used instead of flat?

#2456 4 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Thanks Vid. I wonder why cup point tips are used instead of flat.

Cup Points dig in, flat would slip.

#2457 4 years ago

Thanks to all the assistance here and one of my local tech buddies, I was able to sort this out. Rather than replacing the mechanism, I used my dremel to smooth it out. Re-installed. Works like a charm. For now!

Thanks again gents.

#2458 4 years ago

Hi fellow owners!
Yesterday I picked up a Shadow, cleaned it, new rubbers, GI bulbs and all leds for the inserts, its a beauty. Im very pleased with it

MyShadow_(resized).jpg

#2459 4 years ago

However...
It has a severe problem regarding the miniplayfield which I suspect will be timeconsuming to fix, so maybe one of you know what it can be, i will try to describe:

-First of all what i noticed is that the minikickers' ''rest'' position is to much down to the left. This can not be the correct position as the kicker can not kick when it is too far to the left.
-The kicker seems to try to kick, at random, it pulses but due to the fact it is so far to the left it cannot kick. (I believe it does this also when no game is on)
-The test program says that all is fine.
-I manually moved the kicker from left to right ( in switch test mode) and the optos detect its position as it should.
-When i manually put the kicker in the middle, then run the kicker test, it works fine.

-Related to this? The battlefield droptarget goes down when hit, battlefield ready shows in display, but the droptarget comes up right after. Hitting it again gives points, target drops and comes up again so there is no way to enter the miniplayfield. Occasionally the droptarget works as expected though.
-When occasionally it lets me enter the miniplayfield, the kicker does not work properly, most likely due to the issue I mentioned first..

any suggestions are more then welcome!

#2460 4 years ago

Does the kicker behave the same way with the glass on as opposed to the glass off? I tried leveling my battlefield but it took it too close to the glass and that interfered with the opto's...

Also, l've not had to look at the drop target for the BF but for the sanctum, I had to adjust the set screw that adjusts it's height and also had to bend the microswitch metal to work correctly. worth playing around with if the same as the sanctum.

#2461 4 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

Quick question My upper play field drop targets were sluggish so i took the assembly apart and cleaned it .
it was kind of gummy and I noticed some grease on them I cleaned it all off and just waxed all rubbing surfaces.
it's not suppose to have lube on it is it? one more thing there's a nut at the end of the solenoid that holds the reset bracket for the targets should that screw be tight or a little loose .. thanks Tony

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Referencing an old post here... I'd like to clean out the upper playfield drop targets because the left one is not dropping because it is sticking on the way down (meaning every 30 games or so I need to manually activate switch 85 in the test menu). I'm trying to repeat what was done in this post, but need some help removing the target assembly. Is it possible for me to remove this with out removing the whole battlefield? I don't want to get in over my head here. Any advice?

#2462 4 years ago

The DT assembly is held on by 4 screws; it's easy to remove.

#2463 4 years ago
Quoted from gwynners:

Does the kicker behave the same way with the glass on as opposed to the glass off? I tried leveling my battlefield but it took it too close to the glass and that interfered with the opto's..

Im not sure what you mean, the glass off or on, but in both cases I suppose it reacts the same. I now know that it is not the kicker that tries to move, but the motor itself. It tries to get the kicker even more to the left. That wouldn't make sense since the optos register the kickers position correct. In testmode the opto switch is triggered half an inch before its ultimate left position, which to me seems OK.

What is the kickers normal, idle position anyway?

#2464 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinbally_1968:

Im not sure what you mean, the glass off or on, but in both cases I suppose it reacts the same. I now know that it is not the kicker that tries to move, but the motor itself. It tries to get the kicker even more to the left. That wouldn't make sense since the optos register the kickers position correct. In testmode the opto switch is triggered half an inch before its ultimate left position, which to me seems OK.
What is the kickers normal, idle position anyway?

I had a kicker behaving oddly with the opto's on the battlefield. The playfield glass was too close to them causing interference as I had raised the battlefield in an attempt to level it. Just wonder if there is some form of interference with yours?

Idle position is dead centre.

#2465 4 years ago
Quoted from gwynners:

I had a kicker behaving oddly with the opto's on the battlefield.

Ah, I now see what you mean, no its not the optos on the battlefield which register the ball, but the optos under the mini pf that register the motors' / kickers' position.
In idel mode my kicker sits in the utmost left position, you can see it in my picture as well, so that is not good.

#2466 4 years ago

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#2468 4 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Pictures don't do it justice, but the finish is remarkable. Mike Chestnut's nickel chrome work.
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Two questions , one does anyone know what screw goes in the gun handle mine is missing one of the two.

Question 2 how much to have chestnut do this

#2469 4 years ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

Two questions , one does anyone know what screw goes in the gun handle mine is missing one of the two.
Question 2 how much to have chestnut do this

your first born.

#2471 4 years ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

Two questions , one does anyone know what screw goes in the gun handle mine is missing one of the two.
Question 2 how much to have chestnut do this

Mine is missing one of the two screws too. I haven't been able to find the part # or screw anywhere.

#2472 4 years ago
Quoted from mwong168:

Mine is missing one of the two screws too. I haven't been able to find the part # or screw anywhere.

Hmm... Anyone ?

#2473 4 years ago

The screw is easy to get. Just a black security bit. The hard thing to get is the bolt that the screw goes in to (part number search shows it isn't produced anymore) I went to a local hardware store and picked up some Chicago Screws that match. Worked perfectly.

#2474 4 years ago

I'll take mine out and try and find it... Unless someone knows the specs

#2475 4 years ago

Can anyone take a picture of the configuration of switch 55 from underneath the playfield, the battlefield drop target? Specifically, the wiring and diode configuration.

Trying to troubleshoot bizarre behavior after replacing the switch. Thanks.

#2476 4 years ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

I'll take mine out and try and find it... Unless someone knows the specs

Here you go. You need the machine screw (#8) and the "butt head" fastener (#11) The fastener is the one that is not available. A good hardware store should be able to match pretty darn close.

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#2477 4 years ago

https://www.boltdepot.com/Sex_bolts.aspx

The "butt head" fastener might be more commonly known as a Sex Bolt.

#2478 4 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

Can anyone take a picture of the configuration of switch 55 from underneath the playfield, the battlefield drop target? Specifically, the wiring and diode configuration.
Trying to troubleshoot bizarre behavior after replacing the switch. Thanks.

nevermind. resoldered a different diode, and all good.

#2479 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

https://www.boltdepot.com/Sex_bolts.aspx
The "butt head" fastener might be more commonly known as a Sex Bolt.

This is a family-friendly thread, sir.

#2480 4 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

This is a family-friendly thread, sir.

thats how families get started!

#2481 4 years ago

Hi folks, has anyone here ever figured how to reverse the controls for the battlefield paddle? Maybe it's just me, but one of my greatest frustrations with this game is that my intuition for flipping the paddle always seems backwards. I think I would get into my Shadow pin a lot more if I could try reversing the controls, but it's not as simple as switching the motor wires, which is the first and only thing I've tried so far. That just screws up the motor's calibration at the start of a game. Might there be a way to do this without a software patch?

#2482 4 years ago
Quoted from arkuz:

That just screws up the motor's calibration at the start of a game. Might there be a way to do this without a software patch?

I think you would need the optos flip from left to right along with reversing the motor leads.

#2483 4 years ago

Use a pair of relays that, when energized, reverse the left and right flipper button's wiring. Energize the relays with the battlefield system board as a trigger. Then once the battlefield ends, the relays revert the flipper controls to normal.

#2484 4 years ago

Hmm, ok, I hear what you're saying ramegoom, but that sounds fairly ambitious for me. Certainly more than just switching some wires around. Will be thinking about that though, thanks.

#2485 4 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

Can anyone take a picture of the configuration of switch 55 from underneath the playfield, the battlefield drop target? Specifically, the wiring and diode configuration.
Trying to troubleshoot bizarre behavior after replacing the switch. Thanks.

I had some odd behaviour after changing the switch. Turned out the arm was getting caught on one of the bolts (?) on the drop - it was being flicked up when the target was pushed up which lodged it making the drop unusable.

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#2486 4 years ago

If anyone knows of any nice Shadow examples for sale please PM me Thank you.

#2487 4 years ago

Maybe that is what someone asttempted on my machine, leaving it in this weird state.

#2488 4 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Use a pair of relays that, when energized, reverse the left and right flipper button's wiring. Energize the relays with the battlefield system board as a trigger. Then once the battlefield ends, the relays revert the flipper controls to normal.

That's gonna screw you up during any point where you're up on the BF and the normal playfield at the same time. Final Battle for instance.

#2489 4 years ago

Last call for alt Shadow translites and speaker panels!

I'll start a thread for this at some point soon, but putting it in the club first. I think I'm done with making Shadow translites. My last order had a ton of people flake out, and I'm sitting on a little stack of them. Need to count, but my guess is it's double digits.

Since these cost me real money to print and interest is obviously down I think I might be done with doing them. Just doesn't make sense to pay for them and have them sit under my Medusa in a box, waiting for some trickle of interest.

So if you want one this might be your last chance, shoot me a PM if you want a set.

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#2490 4 years ago

Removed the battlefield drop target mech yesterday and cleaned it because it was filthy and the targets were slow going down. Also noticed the targets had stopped raising. Got everything put back together and still targets wouldn't raise, but they were nice and snappy going down at least.

Noticed F103 was blowing but was curious why the battlefield drops weren't on that fuse. Q32 seemed to test fine, but removed the board so it was easier to test. Tested all the transistors and Q26 was bad. That controls the single drop target for the battlefield entrance - also on F103.

The coil plunger was stuck so I removed the whole mech. Coil overheated and melted the sleeve, which in turn blew Q26 - hopefully nothing else further up like a pre-driver or chip.

Luckily I have a spare transistor and the correct coil in my parts, so replacing them now and hopefully all works well. Also cleaned the single drop mech because had such gunk in there. If I had the space in my workshop, I'd get Shadow in there and do the full tear down and sanctum repair that's needed.

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#2491 4 years ago

Fried coil replaced and the drop mech cleaned. Then replaced the Q26 TIP102 transistor and everything working again.

Except getting garbage on the colordmd screen. Checked and reseated every connector and just going to flash the colordmd rom again to see if that fixes it.

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#2492 4 years ago

Turns out a ColorDMD Shadow updated was released on Christmas. Good thing I needed to check, so heads up to anyone who hasn't applied the latest update.

http://www.colordmd.com/download.php?rom=TS_3_2

-1
#2493 4 years ago

That's one melted coil.

Any reason why you're installing a Stern coil instead of a Williams coil?

#2494 4 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

That's one melted coil.
Any reason why you're installing a Stern coil instead of a Williams coil?

The Stern is the identical to the 26-1200 coil that was installed.

#2495 4 years ago

And my display issue was just that I missed a plug on the board.

#2496 4 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Turns out a ColorDMD Shadow updated was released on Christmas. Good thing I needed to check, so heads up to anyone who hasn't applied the latest update.
http://www.colordmd.com/download.php?rom=TS_3_2

Whaat? New ColorDMD software? Sneaky! Installed! Thanks for the heads up.

3.2: (12/25/15) Corrected an issue that could cause intermittent startup problems on some displays. Improved color saturation.

#2497 4 years ago

Hey guys... Is there anyway to easily remove the Mongols? Seems I have to pull a ramp to get to one of them was gonna have a friend paint them but don't feel like stripping the game LOL!

#2498 4 years ago

A photo I took today... A balls eye view of the Aurich translite.

image_(resized).jpeg

#2499 4 years ago

Nice Photo! How did you shoot it?

#2500 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Nice Photo! How did you shoot it?

I used an iPhone 6s camera with the lens inverted to be close to the playfield as possible, tilted upwards.

In other news, Gasoline Alley's comic for today features The Shadow. Thought I'd share...

http://www.gocomics.com/gasolinealley/2016/01/31

image_(resized).jpeg

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