Thanks!

BTW, I highly recommend getting a set of T-handle allen wrenches like this, as well as a set of smaller ones with a right angle that aren't in a bundle together.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000CBJDU

While you're adjusting your Phurbas, I'd recommend replacing the set screws, there are accounts of them stripping and they'd be a nightmare to get out if they do. Some discussion here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/14#post-1449324

Agreed. Buy two of these: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4010-01066-06

I put some SMD strips in and like an idiot, I think I had too many going to one part of the GI. Not my back right corner GI won't turn on. Did I blow a fuse or something worse? Any advice? Also I can't remove the fuse, it's very tight... Any advice on removing it?

Delete, double post

Check for burnt connectors going to the board. If you still have regular bulbs then you probably shouldn't add to the circuits. There are fuse pulling tools or you can pry them out with a screwdriver. Most likely one blew. Check all of them with a multimeter. Had the same thing happen to me with different game.

Did you check the fuses with your multimeter? I always use a little screwdriver to pry out fuses - the glass is really strong. If you've used LEDs for all of your GI, it's doubtful that you overloaded it. Maybe something shorted while you were installing it.

Yup, It takes alot to overload a line with strips, as long as that line already has LEDs...It can definitely blow a fuse, if left incandescent.
Sounds like a quick short, and hopefully a fast fuse replacement.
If that blows, start a visual inspection, or removal to try to find the issue. On rare occasions, it can be a bad strip itself.

I read something about playfield production: mine is TAG. Is it true SP are better?

Thanks for your help, yes it was definitely a fuse, but wasn't overloaded due to the strips. I also had two spotlights on the circuit which for some reason was causing the fuses to blow. I'm not sure why but it was definitely the spotlights. The full smd strips work perfectly now without the spots.

With 20 gauge wire for the back box GI, I bet every Shadow has had one of these at some point in its life:

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If your GI has been re-pinned, it could be wired wrong, as there is an error in the manual. When I got mine, the lower back box and upper left playfield were on the same fuse and kept overloading it. Go back a few pages in this thread and there is a good picture of the correct wire positions.

Did that just happen?

I have a nice shadow for sale with a bunch of extras if anyone is looking.

Whats the difference between L6 and LX6 ROMs?

After a 3 year hiatus I'm back in the club! I owned a nice Shadow for many years and sold it to a friend as I needed money for another title. I ended up trading a really nice Doctor Who to get this one, but I'm just glad to have one of my favorite titles back again! And it even has the Aurich kit installed. I will never make the mistake of selling a Shadow again

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I've noticed that many times, if a ball makes it up the right side of the left diverter with just enough momentum, it will become captured behind the switch. I'm sure this is a common problem with The Shadow. What would be the recommended solution to prevent this?

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Straighten out the switch blade a bit and it should help. It's going to take some time and effort to get it just right, though. I like my Shadow at a greater angle than 6.5. For what it's worth, I've never had a hang up at the big angles, but get them periodically if I lower it a bit.

I have found its a fine balance between getting the machine levelled properly and very fine adjustment of the switch, it is infuriating at times, you think you got it just right and the bloody thing gets hung up again!!!

I changed the switch which helped my game from the hangups.

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This should help. I'll straighten out the switch to see if that works alone, and if not, I'll raise the playfield angle.

member of the shadow club since September...now that I am getting used to the flow and better at hitting the ramps, this game is great! the games when everything is flowing, it just blows me away. great adrenaline rush!! I think its those games when I cant miss a post with the short ball times that makes the good games that much better! now back to playing....

I like that idea, much smoother for the ball to pass

Joined the club today!
Now just waiting for the Aurich translite to arrive

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Thanks Aurich!

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Was gonna say it should be there already, but then I looked you up and realized you're in the UK. UK isn't the fastest, but it's at least not as slow as Germany, which seems to have the record for how long customs will hold a package for whatever reason.

You're more than welcome!

Right now it's looking like a chunk of my list is flaking out, have a stack here unclaimed still. I guess I can try and figure out who hasn't ordered and try and hunt them down to ask if they still want them, but after a bit I'm just going to sell them to whoever asks for them, can't hold them forever after paying to have them printed if you're not gonna bother to respond.

If you're on my list and somehow missed the email I sent out shoot me a PM!

Aurich, that's disappointing to hear, you'd think people would be more appreciative of your efforts.

It happens for sure, I'm pretty used to it. When there's no charge to sign up on a list people do it without really giving it much thought. I got a couple emails back about people dropping out, which is always 100% fine. Meant I could give their spots to people who were on a waiting list. Lemme know if you're out, I won't be mad!

It's the no response ones that can be frustrating. Sometimes it will be a month later and someone will suddenly pay out of the blue. I've had to refund people before when I just don't have something for them, I'm not a store, just sitting on stock.

Anyways, there are 11 sitting here unclaimed, when I get some more time I'll go through my list and my emails and try and cross reference it all, but that's a PITA, so I don't feel like doing it right now.

Also joined the club today (pics later), and also waiting for Aurich's translite to arrive ( Italy here). Let's see if custom is going to take longer than Germany!

Stinks about the flakes. Thanks for doing the reprint Aurich. Glad I got mine. merry Christmas!

I recently finished rebuilding my Shadow, and many thanks to Aurich for helping me get rid of Alec, and also to Art from Cometpinball, Mike Chestnuet, and Kerry from Mantis Amusements.

I've just finished up the lighting. I color matched the GI with Cometpinball's 2 SMDs. I've been doing lots of experimentation with the GI lighting, and I'm sharing some of the results. My original thought was to make The Shadow look mysterious, so I originally went with Cool Whites, and some blue in the GI. I think it worked, with my Shadow looking like a distant cousin of Theatre of Magic, but I couldn't help but feel I was missing something... My Shadow is based off the the old radio show and pulp magazines, not the movie. And as such I felt I was not fully realizing the Art Deco design, and doing proper justice to the unique brass wire forms (Thanks Mike Chestnut).

I work in NYC, so on my way home from work I stopped by the Art Deco Waldof Astoria to take some photos for some inspiration... And noticed that the lighting is a very golden warm (not cool), with blue and black highlights image.jpeg

So I went ahead and redid the GI with Cometpinball's warm white bulbs, using a mix of 2SMD's retro bulbs and Optix Maximus. Created my own lost plastic in Illustrator, added a purple SMD strip above the lost plastic. I experimented with the wall, but felt that the lost plastic worked better, providing unity between the back of the pinball machine and the sides.

I added a warm white strip beneath the apron (I tried a purple strip below in my cool lighting below, but it just washed out all of the colors). I also added three spots, each with a Warm White Optix Maximus... I really wanted to push the golden hue and get the gold reflection from the wireforms. I added purple posts, and flashers, and purple post lights (I think I may change the post lights to blue at some point in the future however). I used some green beneath the battlefield, wanted to give it bit of eerie glow through the the cracks, drawing inspiration from the classic Zenith Magic Green Eye Radio...
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I think it came out pretty good, for comparison, here is my Version 1 cool version of The Shadow. You can see how the taxi colors are washed out, it's darker, and looks a bit more modern:
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And here it is after I modified to using the warm white lighting throughout. I really like the way this one came out, the playfield is more illuminated and wireforms seem to reflect as gold more (instead of the blue/silver in the cool version). I think it looks more vintage too, but I still might change my post lights to blue. I'll post some more photos soon.

The backbox lighting is perfect, but I don't like seeing so much purple on the playfield...just my personal preference. I started with different colors for the mode inserts (e.g. Farley Claymore) but went back to white. I promise to post pics of mine when I'm done so people can pick mine apart. . I wound up going with #44 bulbs in the GI, and color-matched LEDs for the inserts.

I guess I'm getting old and the eyes don't see as good as they once did, so I had to add a 12V warm white 3 LED strip to the private side of the shroud going around the upper playfield. I didn't like that plastic being dark and struggling to see the bat moving from side to side. Here's the before dark area, the after, the after w/sharpie color change to purple and the wiring route as not to come near the pinball.

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Here a few more photos of my restored machine.

The repaired Sanctum, with added mylar:
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And here is a new Lost Plastic created in Illustrator:
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And some other photos, I prioritized bringing out the brass highlights wherever possible...
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Amazing pictures, congrats! It looks like a "world" more than a playfield. In fact, when we play pinball with enter an entire new world, and your pics perfctly catch that dimension.

Is the cityscape back-panel something that can be ordered? That looks awesome.

Outstanding! I really appreciate that you took the time to create the look you wanted with lighting, and shared
the comparisons....Its one reason, I am not fond of kits, because we all see it differently, and with a little work, games take on a life of their own with creative lighting, plating, resto, and bless Aurichs hard work.
I have more people that visit that rate Shadow as the best looking game I have....better then WOZ, TWD, on appearance only, as I too tinker with it and use as a proto test.
What a Great Game, and made better when we share as you graciously have done!
Thanks for sharing.....!!! Oh, and may i share some of these pics on my site?

Thanks!

Art

Thanks, the cityscape panel is something that I've seen before, but it was no longer available, I thought one or two of the buildings were a bit clunky, and alignment was off so I created this one. Then I went to a printer to produce it. If there was enough interest, I could explore making them available for order.

Thank Art, I appreciate the kind words. All of these lights are Comet Pinball lights, and am really pleased with how they look. The only additional lighting customizations I'm looking to make are to add a light over the battlefield (once the diffused strip is available), and trial blue lights in the purple star posts, and blue lights in teal star posts. I'd like to lessen some of the purple near the front and use it more of a highlight to the blue. Blue tends to be used in art deco a bit more prevalently, so I think it may suit the theme.

Yes definitely, these are Comet lights and you are more than welcome to share these pics on your site. I'll send through some hi-res versions for you.

Hi, Shadow-Clubbers, I'm joining the club.

I bought a broken The Shadow a while back in order to try and fix it (with very limited knowledge of pinball restauration, but one has to start somewhere, right ?) and decided to get back to work today. I already took it apart a while back and cleaned all parts, and now is the time to put it all back together. Needless to say, I'm very excited about all this, but I might need some of your help in case I forgot to take enough pictures when taking it apart. can I count on you guys if the need arises ?

Cheers, and glad to be part of the club

That's a really good point. I've always thought pinball was like a mini amusement park captured under glass. Some pins seem to capture this entire world feel better than others, where the lighting, playfield art, toys, design, typography, plastics all seem to come together to become a mini world.

These do it well:
Lord of the Rings
Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Congo
Tales of the Arabian Nights
The Shadow
Theatre of Magic

And for comparison, these don't seem to capture a complete world (just an opinion):
Metallica
Spiderman

Agreed. Some have it, others dont.

And from this viewpoint I have a rather unusual perspective: I am fascinated by "special"/ not so popular worlds, like TOM for example, more than famous successful franchises. The Shadow was a flop movie, but an interesting, bit obscure superhero: not too many people know him, and this makes this beautiful pin/world even more mysterious and attractive to me. Same goes for Johnny Mnemonic: at the time not a successful movie, but seen today it has a special/twisted/alternative take on sci-fi/cyberpunk that makes it even more attractive than Tron or Matrix to me. But Im not talking only about art and theme here, its the whole experience including great gameplay!
And whats better than the entire "world" ('60 series and rich and fun playfield) of TZ?
Can you suggest other similar pins with that magic touch, currently not too famous and good gameplay ?

Sure, but we usually help make it worse, before it gets better!!

Hahaha at least I'll have someone to blame

Recently joined the club and I can't believe that it took me this long to discover what an awesome game this is. One thing that was really bothering me though was the left ramp-right exit switch not registering. I started with the original switch and just couldn't get it adjusted properly. Then I tried the 4" long wire switch that people recommend, but that didn't seem any better. I read some posts about moving the switch to the other side of the wire form, so I gave that I try. It now registers 100% of the time. I used an old bracket and switch from a MM ramp that I had laying around. I wanted to share a pic of this because when I was looking for one, there didn't seem to be any out there. I attached this to the left side screw that holds the two wire forms together.

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I decided to experiment with different colored posts (purple, blue, teal) and lights (purple, blue). I went with purple posts with blue light. It creates a gradient of royal blue that works well with the Art Deco theme and playfield colors.

I've shared some photos for reference:

The star post options, I originally thought teal may work, but it looks too green

Blue star post light

In blue post

In teal post

In purple post

Purple star post light

In blue post

In teal post

In purple post

And here is the comparison of purple in purple post and blue in purple post:

half/half playfield comparison
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And the final result (blue light in purple post):
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All I just replaced the left diverter switch to a straight wire, because the engineers had their heads up their asses when they put in the bent one. At any rate when testing the switch in tests menu it works perfectly but when the game starts even manually triggering it with the glass off it doesn't register..what am I missing?

Never mind diode was wrong direction(newb)

What is the part number for a flasher bulb socket? I've ordered sockets my last two parts orders and have gotten the smaller diameter sockets. I didn't see the socket part # in the manual and would like to get the last flasher working.

Thanks.