How does one lift the mini playfield?

always lift with your knees, never with your back

Unscrew the knurled screw on the left hand side (between rubber ring) and lift up. It hinges on the back. IIRC the screw is captive so you don't need to pull it right out.

The screw in my Shadow is not captive and falls out so be careful. Also when lifting the mini-playfield from the front you will most likely have to pull the wireform that delivers the ball up to the playfield back and away to clear the plastic shroud.

There's a screw lock, knurled outside. Undo that and then it hinges upwards.

Edit: oops too slow

Ok thanks everyone have a couple leds in there that go in and out so just want to adjust

Man this is a good game!! I just had a 6 way combo hitting all rings and then a double shadow loop felt good!! Hard darn game though

Shadow is #1 luckily many dismiss it because of the translite artwork and movie. Pretty shallow reasons. Pound for pound the best playing game out there!

Trying to join the club Looking in md pa va. Anyone share an led map in theirs ? Game looks great in greens and purple

Just joined the club yesterday, what a great game!image.jpgimage.jpg

holy purpleredness batman. do you have any white bulbs in that game?

I dig them lights under the diverters. Awesome job.

Haha, I like a suntan when I play. I'm not done yet. I've added blue lights in all the star posts that I swapped out to blue. The posts on the slingshots go off when activated but the rest always stay on. I'm still working on the battlefield. All the targets will be translucent red with red LEDs behind them. I had to hook up lights to the service port as I started blowing fuses.

Here's a full playfield shot to give a better idea. I'll post the finished product when I'm done. It'll be a while as I have to move at the end of the month and have a TOM arriving Wednesday.
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I'm planning to give Titan Pinball's new silicone rings a try. With that in mind, I took the rubber ring list from the manual and updated to reflect what I see on my game (noted below). If anyone here has re-rubbered their Shadow, did the rubber sizes from the manual (shown below) work out OK for you?:

• Flipper rings x3 [manual incorrectly calls for 2]
• Post Sleeves x6
• 7/16 Inch O.D. rings x2 (manual calls for Part No. 23-6694-1 which it says is a 3/32" ring. Most sites seem to identify 23-6694-1 as a 7/16" ID ring so that's what I'm looking at here)
• 5/16 Inch I.D. rings x5 (manual calls for 3, I added 2 for outlane posts)
• 3/4 Inch I.D. rings x2
• 1 Inch I.D. rings x2
• 1 1/4 Inch I.D. ring x1
• 2 1/2 Inch I.D. rings x2

Shadow rocks. gets better All the time.

YEP COULDN'T AGREE MORE. I HAVE A BUNCH OF DECENT GAMES BUT THE SHADOW JUST HAS THAT POWERFUL FEEL TO IT.

Ok. Been eyeing if for a year. Saw many here but none close enough and shipping was stopping me. Made an exhaustive 11-1/2 hour round trip today(8 hours driving) and it's finally here!

Got a great price. It's in great shape outside and in. Few cab scuffs. All inserts are great. Slight divot in the sanctum that will need addressing. Also a trough issue. Nothing major, thouh. Too tired tonight but hope to be playing very soon!image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

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Getting ready to replace the backbox decals on my Shadow. The old ones are pretty ugly as can be seen in the pictures. Not sure why, but someone had drilled holes on the one side. I will fill in the holes before painting, and clean up/paint the bolt heads too. Is semi-gloss black the paint to use on the backbox?

If anyone has done this before, please share any tips, tricks, precautions from your experience. Thanks!

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The Rustoleum 2x semigloss seems to be a good match for the b/w cab black. It's hard to get just right sometimes, but usually you can do it with multiple even coats. Make sure you sand everything super smooth and double check before you redecal because you can see even the most minute imperfections under the new decals.

How do I go about joining. I traded my pretty worn T2 for The Shadow and haven't looked back! What a game!!!!!

Congrats. I think pics are all that's needed for club entry.

While i'm here I have a question and this is probably the best place to find an answer. So happy to have finally gotten my Shadow and it is in very good condition but it is missing the knurled lockdown screw for the Battlefield. Does anyone know where I can track one down?

I've never redone decals, but if I were going to I'd read through Bryan Kelly's awesome thread on his restoration process. Lots of good details on cabinet prep and decal installation (along with many other subjects) from a total pro. Here's a link to a few posts where he's talking about removing the old decals, prepping the cabinet, and installing the new decals:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-restoration-started#post-1075201

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-restoration-started/page/2#post-1079772

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-restoration-started/page/5#post-1107311

Weird about those drill marks. My shadow has the same type of mark on the cab. Odd.

Just got to the Final Battle mode where all 5 balls (or is it 6?) are in play and 30 seconds ball save. Got all but 2 shots. Score was 1.5Billion. What a rush. Such a fantastic game.

And unlike other games when you "complete" them, I want to play it again straight away.

The ramp diverters are genius.

Those drill marks... I have them too. The only idea I came up with regarding those holes is that there was a plastic holder of sorts screwed into the board holding either flyers or some other paperwork as mine still had some plastic left.

sometimes you see a gam that has a clear piece of plastic protecting the tax stamp.

And it's usually drilled right into the cabinet. Could be the case here

Good info, thanks all, I will try to tackle it this weekend. I stopped by Lowes but all they had for paint was gloss and satin.

Yep. Mine too. Seems like bluish green plastic residue inside the drill holes. Really weird.

It's really hard to take a good picture of a pin with your phone, but for what it's worth I recently installed the Pinballbulbs kit and it's pretty awesome.

So far since getting the game I've added new rubbers, balls, invisiglass, backboard vinyl, target decals, rebuilt the target wall assembly with new plunger, coil, and pivot piece.

This is easily the hardest game in my collection. I love it.

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Joining the club this weekend...Looking for a copy of the manual if someone has one to sell.

get some mirror blades man. Changes the look of the game bigtime. I will try to remember to snap a few pics of mine when I get home and post them. Where'd ya get the backboard vinyl?

who cares

Even better: For Shadow, get black chrome mirror blades! Fits the dark overall look of TS very well.

I added a pinballbulbs led strip (flipper size) to the back of the battlefield sign and wired it to the flasher on the battlefield. Whole battlefield lights up every time it flashes, got the idea from troutfarm. It works really really well.

Anyone know where I can get a cheap replacement mongol? Lost a sword on one of mine...

nope. There are only a couple places that sell the Monguls and you're looking $30 a piece or $80 for a set of 3.

I want to know where you can find the battlefield lockdown screw or a similar replacement.

I just used one of these...

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This is even better than my Gumby idea.

Where did you find that Farley Claymore figurine?!?

Not sure if this qualifies as cheap but PPS and Marco have the individual figurines in stock:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-9248
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9248

Alternately you could throw up a WTB, I was able to pick one up a bit cheaper that way.

Have you had any trouble with the mirrors getting scraped up when you raise and lower the playfield? I thought I read somewhere that the Shadow has a pretty tight playfield fit and is tough on mirror blades for that reason.

Did you try the high-end version or some simpler solution? Seen a lot of really bad ones, even ones made from clear plastic just painted black on the backside (???). Scratches are kind of the same as with standard chrome. I think they even scratch less because the black coating is titanium-carbon-nitride which should be extremely hard (and makes them silly expensive... ).

It always depends on the individual machine. Mine has lots of space, more than most other WPCs.

Then again i can't mount blades in my LotR, tried it, no chance at all.

Just had a 2.1bn game - no extra ball, no Final Battle jackpot. Just Vengeance and loop combos all the way.

This game is seriously good. It's really hard to fault.

pinball side mirrors was the brand. that black will scratch off if the PF rubs it. Unlike the standard, it cant be buffed out. I did scratch the normal ones I have in there now but its very small and you have to look to find it. I think this is one of the higher value mods you can do. It just makes the machine look so much better especially with leds in it. I did my spiderman too and its awesome. Gonna be selling tit too. here is the bladed SM with twin color matching smds in the inserts and single smds for GI. It screams "buy me" doesnt it? It blows compared to shadow as far as gameplay goes though.

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