(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

11 years ago


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  • 10,983 posts
  • 761 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by bluespin
  • Topic is favorited by 284 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 10,983 posts in this topic. You are on page 220 of 220.
#10951 38 days ago

Anyone need a new set of ramp flaps? Bought these years ago from Pinbits (don’t try to order them these days! You won’t get them!)

$16 postage paid (us)

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#10952 34 days ago

Time for a full strip and clean....

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1 week later
#10953 27 days ago

Who has the best mod for lighting up the mini playfield?

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#10954 27 days ago

Just mount a slimline spotlight on the left post and tie it into the GI

#10955 26 days ago
Quoted from Lmjdad:

Who has the best mod for lighting up the mini playfield?
[quoted image]

I think the best mods for the mini pf are the grumpy light mod and the 3d car mod for the back of the ball paddle.

#10956 24 days ago

I have a few questions for anyone that is using Pin2DMD. I currently have a colorDMD installed in my Shadow that I want to swap with a color Pin2DMD that I have. I am curious what I need to swap in my Pin2DMD from a Data East game into my Shadow. I'm also curious where to get the latest colorization files for Shadow for Pin2DMD.

Thanks!

#10957 24 days ago
Quoted from ectobar:

Would appreciate some tech help.
My right diverter has stopped working during gameplay.
In coil test it moves in both directions.
The cabinet button works in switch test.
Not sure how to troubleshoot from here.
Any thoughts on how to troubleshoot further?

Follow up. This just got fixed this past week. It ended up being a couple things. The issue with the Phurba ended up being a dangling wire that was interrupting the switch. Wire was zip tied to a nearby harness to resolve. But at the same time 2 different wires were broken. A wire on the battlefield paddle and a wire on the drop target for the entrance to the battlefield were broken.

The game is at our local pinball club. Previous to all this we had it in the back to be worked on. Got it working, but then I guess all the vibration from dragging it out to the floor and a days worth of play caused all that havoc.

Anyway, game is operational again and playing great.

#10958 24 days ago

Recently purchased The Shadow and it started the dreaded resets during play, only during multiball though, and a few seconds into playing the multiball. Trying to troubleshoot, measure the voltages to determine if its the 5V are falling/failing. In doing so I noticed that on my machine J116 is unpopulated but J123 (5 pin) is populated with what looks like should be the 4 pin connector for J116. The connector wire coding matches (Gray-Yellow/Black) but with no 5V wire per the manual. The game operates normally except for the multiball reset. Any ideas on why this connector would be on J123 which lists as not used in the manual? What does J123 control, I don't measure any voltage of it?

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#10959 24 days ago
Quoted from Yeaham:

I don't measure any voltage of it?

You won't measure any voltage on that because the grey/yellow wire is connected to the key pin of the connector.

It does not connect here, remove it and trace it back to where it goes to.

Most likely goes on J116.

#10960 24 days ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I have a few questions for anyone that is using Pin2DMD. I currently have a colorDMD installed in my Shadow that I want to swap with a color Pin2DMD that I have. I am curious what I need to swap in my Pin2DMD from a Data East game into my Shadow. I'm also curious where to get the latest colorization files for Shadow for Pin2DMD.
Thanks!

per3per3 - You need to contact the author, jedimastermatt for these. I was a tester for this title, and I can tell you it's far superior to ColorDMD's effort.

For anyone looking for a Pin2DMD for their Shadow - I have 2 left: $230 shipped completely plug and play > 10 min install. PM if interested.

#10961 24 days ago
Quoted from Phoerber:

per3per3 - You need to contact the author, jedimastermatt for these. I was a tester for this title, and I can tell you it's far superior to ColorDMD's effort.
For anyone looking for a Pin2DMD for their Shadow - I have 2 left: $230 shipped completely plug and play > 10 min install. PM if interested.

Thank you!

#10962 24 days ago
Quoted from Yeaham:

Any ideas on why this connector would be on J123 which lists as not used in the manual?

Because somebody had no clue what they were doing when reconnecting things. That might seem harsh and/or facetious. I stand by that statement. There is no world in which a properly constructed 4-position housing connects to a 5-pin header.

Quoted from Yeaham:

What does J123 control, I don't measure any voltage of it?

J123 pins 1-5 are electrically connected to J124 pins 1-5 and J122 pins 1-4 working around the key pins with pin numbers corresponding as they increase. J123-1 is a solenoid and it should measure solenoid voltage (+70VDC). J123-3,4,5 are flashers and should measure flasher voltage (+20VDC). I suspect the reason you don't measure any voltage is one of two things. The coin door is open and the interlock switch is interrupting high voltage or you are not measuring correctly.

Remove that 4-pin housing and insert it into J116. That is where it belongs. I would check what that connector supplies but I don't think you hit anything with any significant voltage since the GRY-YEL and BLK wire were at the same flasher potential and the actual potential difference that anything connected to those wires was exposed to was 0V. Actual playing with flasher operation will change that assessment. You would have to work through to see if anything was damaged. If you're lucky it will be the cabinet (coin door) connector and there should be nothing connected to it. If you're unlucky it will be the playfield connector and you should check everything that is driven by the GRY-YEL wire under the playfield.

There is one other thing you should be aware of. The RED-ORG wire that is the tieback diode wire for solenoid #24 appears to have come out of the IDC. I can't be sure since the image is not well illuminated and it is a 3D phenomenon that I am viewing with a 2D perspective.

#10963 22 days ago

DumbAss GRUMPY

Thanks for all the info! Yep, appears it was from J116, tracing the wiring back to the Coin Door Interface PCB. I should have clued in with lack of lighting on the coin door. No idea why it was on J123, like you said someone had no clue. This is my 3rd used pin and I'm learning there always seems to be something wired oddly, or hacked together. I hooked it up to J116, reseated many of the connections on the power board and CPU while checking for any other wrong wiring, and so far no resets in multiball.

And yes the RED-ORG wire does appear to be out of the IDC in the pic, but you were right it is the 3D vs 2D perspective as it is looped back into the connector on the machine. Thanks for checking though.

#10964 22 days ago

My thanks in advance for helping spreading the word! https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/167909

#10965 22 days ago

Dont get desperate! They will never make this game again. Your price is pretty low man. It will sell.

#10966 21 days ago

Just joined the club with a project Shadow. Got a good deal on a complete at least project. It's got some interesting operator repairs.
The ramps were broken, left ramp they fixed with a screw to catch the broken tab. The right ramp the entire left side is broken off, they had aluminum duct tape and a lot of some type of hot glue epoxy stuff holding it together. Sanctum has a piece of cabinet linoleum over it, so that's going to be interesting to remove.
Missing 1 ring and lights I think on all of them. Gonna have to figure something out for that, I'm just starting to read through this group and seen it brought up already several times hopefully it not to hard to make something work.
The sanctum drop Target was made out of a aluminum piece also, impressive for a op fix.
Not knocking Operators, parts weren't always available so they had to get creative to fix things. I'm just glad we are a time in pinball where parts are available and almost all games can be saved.

This will be a project for at the Atlanta SFGE show next month as I'm prepping games for that. Wire forms are now green, doesn't look terrible I might just keep like that for now. Besides being very dirty it should clean up nicely.

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#10968 21 days ago

But...do you have the ring light sockets?

#10969 19 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

But...do you have the ring light sockets?

Nope. Anyone selling those?

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#10970 19 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Nope. Anyone selling those?
[quoted image]

I don’t think so, although, they’re not entirely needed as you’ve probably already figured out. Pretty easy to work around not having them, and nobody would know the difference.

#10971 16 days ago

I have a shadow playfield in northern il I'd be willing to take offers on that I'm sitting on. Gold CPR playfield brand new. Send me a PM

#10972 15 days ago

Can anyone send me a picture of the pin configuration for the Molex and purple. The manual states to this empty, but I have a white yellow wire that should be the single wire feeding into that molex. I’m guessing it either slot three or four but wanted to confirm

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#10973 14 days ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Can anyone send me a picture of the pin configuration for the Molex and purple. The manual states to this empty, but I have a white yellow wire that should be the single wire feeding into that molex. I’m guessing it either slot three or four but wanted to confirm
[quoted image]

That‘s how it looks like in my machine…

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#10974 14 days ago
Quoted from DrBernd:

That‘s how it looks like in my machine…
[quoted image]

Just a friendly reminder to change your batteries

It’s a remote board but leakage can still wreck the switch connectors underneath.

#10975 14 days ago
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:

Just a friendly reminder to change your batteries
It’s a remote board but leakage can still wreck the switch connectors underneath.

Thanks, already done! The picture shows the condition before full restoration of the machine

#10976 14 days ago

Anyone still making a back panel decal (ive seen the one on ebay, but the colors look weird). HEP recently restored a shadow with a back panel decal that had a sunset look. Can't seem to find it either.

#10977 14 days ago

Guys, to be clear I'm looking to sell to someone local this playfield (500 dollars btw). I have two people asking to ship, but I don't want it to get damaged.

#10978 9 days ago

I'm looking for a battlefield shroud for my Shadow.

#10979 9 days ago
Quoted from Doctor6:

Guys, to be clear I'm looking to sell to someone local this playfield (500 dollars btw). I have two people asking to ship, but I don't want it to get damaged.

If you are near my area anytime soon I’ll take it. Or can grab at expo as well. Let me know.

#10980 8 days ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

If you are near my area anytime soon I’ll take it. Or can grab at expo as well. Let me know.

Oof. That's 3 hours one way. I would meet you half way.

#10981 7 days ago

Anyone know where I can get the plunger and square link for the battlefield kicker? New, used, reproduction?? (grabbed pic from post listed 6 yrs ago)

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#10982 7 days ago
Quoted from RickyBobby1:

Anyone know where I can get the plunger and square link for the battlefield kicker? New, used, reproduction?? (grabbed pic from post listed 6 yrs ago)
[quoted image]

my brother is looking for one too,,

#10983 5 days ago

I talked to Chris Royalty and he has more of his steel battlefield shrouds on the way.
https://pinballplating.com/quick-exchange-parts/bally-shadow-metal-battlefield-shroud

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