(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

10 years ago


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  • 10,922 posts
  • 754 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Pinkitten
  • Topic is favorited by 279 Pinsiders

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There are 10,922 posts in this topic. You are on page 207 of 219.
#10301 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Looks very nice. Colored LEDs ruin anything that aren't inserts IMO. The white looks perfect and shows the fidelity of the artwork that it highlights.

Thank you!

Quoted from Aurich:

Do whatever makes you happy. I’ve never been a fan of colored bulbs behind translites personally. When I see people do it with mine it never looks right to me.

I agree but everything comes down to personal preference. Life is short, enjoy!

#10302 1 year ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Do whatever makes you happy. I’ve never been a fan of colored bulbs behind translites personally. When I see people do it with mine it never looks right to me.

Agree. The bulbs I find very useful behind some translites and backglasses are the fire bulbs from Comet. They come in red or blue, and simulate a flickering flame or lightning. I have them in my EATPM behind the flaming grill and burning hotdog on a stick, behind the torches on BSD and blue ones behind the lightning storm on Fish Tales. My favorite was on TAF, the lightning striking the antenna. Very cool effect!

#10303 1 year ago

Hi guys!
I'm Michael and I'm from Ukraine. We have very small pinball community so it's hard to find spare parts for pinballs here.
I have a long term The Shadow project which is missing so many parts(pic attached). This is long journey and i managed to get some very hard to find parts like whole miniplayfield with mechanisms(Finland), extended drop target(Austria), 3 bracket switch(Australia). So this certain pinball machine is becoming kinda international, because Shadow itself was bought as playfield alone, without any boards, transformer, display,etc in Poland, where it was imported from Germany
At this point i'm kinda desparate to find some of those parts missing, but hopefully someone has spare to sell. Here is a short list of parts I'm looking for at the moment:
1)Part A-19786 - back board for the miniplayfield. I bought mini playfield in Finland and didn't know it was missing that part. Pictures attached.
2)Diverters under playfield - left and right.
3)Diverters on the playfield(these are available on Marcos and pinballlife).
3)Gun handle
4)Metal hex posts 02-5139 https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lf-replacement-metal-hex-standoff-for-williams-02-5139-the-shadow
5)Posts for mini playfield 6-32 x 3/8"
6)A-17540-1 Universal Power Interface Assy (Bally/Williams)
7)Transformer 5610-13953-00
8)A-18753 outhole ball trough assembly
If you have any of those or you have other ones i didn't write - contact me please.
Thanks for reading,
Michael
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#10304 1 year ago
Quoted from FlashBFD:

Hi guys!
I'm Michael and I'm from Ukraine.

Welcome!
Try contacting Arakissun. He's been on here a long time and sells used parts. He might have some of what you need.
Good Luck!

https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/arakissun

#10305 1 year ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Welcome!
Try contacting Arakissun. He's been on here a long time and sells used parts. He might have some of what you need.
Good Luck!
https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/arakissun

Thank you! I sent him a message.

#10306 1 year ago

I'm sure this is a contentious issue, but how are folks aligning their upper flipper. Currently, I'm trying to get in reasonably symmetrical with the playfield artwork as opposed to the plastic to the right of the upper flipper, as that seemed to interfere a bit with my left to right orbit. I read some past posts where people were saying a left to right orbit hitting a held upper flipper should go in the Khan hole, which mine has never done.

Thanks for any info.

#10307 1 year ago
Quoted from mikeflan:

I'm sure this is a contentious issue

It’s not a contentious issue, all flipper angles are welcome here!

#10308 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

It’s not a contentious issue, all flipper angles are welcome here!

Yeah, not a contentious issue to ask about flippers. A contentious issue would be asking for new adventures on the Rick and Morty thread.

#10309 1 year ago
Quoted from mikeflan:

I'm sure this is a contentious issue, but how are folks aligning their upper flipper. Currently, I'm trying to get in reasonably symmetrical with the playfield artwork as opposed to the plastic to the right of the upper flipper, as that seemed to interfere a bit with my left to right orbit. I read some past posts where people were saying a left to right orbit hitting a held upper flipper should go in the Khan hole, which mine has never done.
Thanks for any info.

I ran mine like that for a few years… but always struggled with shadow loops. Putting it back parallel with the plastic that’s mounted to the right of it… I can hit shadow loops almost Everytime…. But I struggle sinking it in the mode hole lol.

#10310 1 year ago

Tilt question for all. I have my tilt bob as low as it can go while still having some thread to keep the wing nut on, yet this seems to still be the most sensitive machine I have. Anyone else experience the same?

#10311 1 year ago

You can reduce the time it takes to stop swinging by putting a foam earplug in the loop at the top of the bob.

Quoted from cookpins:

Tilt question for all. I have my tilt bob as low as it can go while still having some thread to keep the wing nut on, yet this seems to still be the most sensitive machine I have. Anyone else experience the same?

#10312 1 year ago
Quoted from cookpins:

Tilt question for all. I have my tilt bob as low as it can go while still having some thread to keep the wing nut on, yet this seems to still be the most sensitive machine I have. Anyone else experience the same?

Your tilt bob is the absolute lowest it can go and you are still tilting? Me thinks you need to relax a bit or take off the bob if you don't want to tilt. Mine is set halfway and it's definitely more than fair.

One note is that B/W games don't have a "debounce" time set in. Meaning that if it detects 3 tilt bob touches in a short period of time (within seconds), you will tilt. Not like what modern games have where you can really rock the machine, can hear the bob touch several times, but only get one warning.

Set your machine up however you like, but I don't think the tilt sensitivity is the problem, no offense.

#10313 1 year ago

Totally unrelated, I'm working on installing new plastics and flashinstinct decals....and what a pain. It's been a few years since I completely shopped out my buddy's Shadow and I knew it would suck but not this much suck lol.

With the new decals, I was wondering which backboard decal you think would go with with the scheme? I know there are like 2 or 3 variations out there. Anyone have any suggestions?

#10314 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Totally unrelated, I'm working on installing new plastics and flashinstinct decals....and what a pain. It's been a few years since I completely shopped out my buddy's Shadow and I knew it would suck but not this much suck lol.
With the new decals, I was wondering which backboard decal you think would go with with the scheme? I know there are like 2 or 3 variations out there. Anyone have any suggestions?

The blue city decal would look better than the brick in my opinion. I’m not aware of any others though.

#10315 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Totally unrelated, I'm working on installing new plastics and flashinstinct decals....and what a pain. It's been a few years since I completely shopped out my buddy's Shadow and I knew it would suck but not this much suck lol.
With the new decals, I was wondering which backboard decal you think would go with with the scheme? I know there are like 2 or 3 variations out there. Anyone have any suggestions?

I had Flash do mine in purple instead of blue to match my backboard decal and overall color scheme.

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#10316 1 year ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

The blue city decal would look better than the brick in my opinion. I’m not aware of any others though.

Not a fan of the brickat all. There were 3 city decals that I could find, one was all blue, one had a purple to blue sky, and the third one, the buildings were not the same as those on the plastics, so I went with the second option. Bonus is that it is made by a Pinsider, and it was the cheapest out of the three

#10317 1 year ago
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:

I had Flash do mine in purple instead of blue to match my backboard decal and overall color scheme.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I just put in an order of purple flasher domes. I didn't know you could ask for purple decals either. Oh well. It'll still look good!

#10318 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I just put in an order of purple flasher domes. I didn't know you could ask for purple decals either. Oh well. It'll still look good!

I paid $60 for a one off custom print.

#10319 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

One note is that B/W games don't have a "debounce" time set in. Meaning that if it detects 3 tilt bob touches in a short period of time (within seconds), you will tilt. Not like what modern games have where you can really rock the machine, can hear the bob touch several times, but only get one warning.

I think this is what is making it feel like it's "too sensitive". Thanks for sharing that insight.

#10320 1 year ago
Quoted from cookpins:

I think this is what is making it feel like it's "too sensitive". Thanks for sharing that insight.

Yeah, it'll count every bounce with a big move. You cant do that with the older games

Use the ear plug mod to help with the "sensitivity".

#10321 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Your tilt bob is the absolute lowest it can go and you are still tilting? Me thinks you need to relax a bit

I think we all could relax a bit, but getting Farley all up in your face won't help with that

#10322 1 year ago

Cannot locate the fuse that operates the magnet and the single drop target down coil. Manual only lists fuses through coil 28 and these are coils 35 and 36 and seem be connected.

Thanks!

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#10323 1 year ago

My Rollergames has a fuse on a local driver board hiding under a bunch of wires on the bottom of the playfield.

#10324 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Cannot locate the fuse that operates the magnet and the single drop target down coil. Manual only lists fuses through coil 28 and these are coils 35 and 36 and seem be connected.
Thanks![quoted image]

Solenoids #35 & 36 are controlled by the Fliptronics board (they use the upper left flipper circuits), so check fuse F902

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#10325 1 year ago

Thank you!! Checking now.

#10326 1 year ago

Hmm. Fuse was okay. Not sure what to check next. Only issues with the game are those two coils. Single drop down and the magnet.

#10327 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:Cannot locate the fuse that operates the magnet and the single drop target down coil. Manual only lists fuses through coil 28 and t

Most likely F112. Secondary solenoid

#10328 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Hmm. Fuse was okay. Not sure what to check next. Only issues with the game are those two coils. Single drop down and the magnet.

It is possible that the J907 connector is wired different to the manual, so worthwhile checking all 4 fuses on the Fliptronics board (ie F901-F904). If these are all good then check if you have 50v at the single drop target down coil (the smaller coil on the mech) and also at the magnet.

Quoted from Santis:

Most likely F112. Secondary solenoid

Doubt this would be the issue because if F112 was blown, there'd be no 50v anywhere (neither the coils off the power driver board or the flippers)

#10329 1 year ago

Thanks. I’ll meter all the fuses today and see what’s what.

#10330 1 year ago

U need to make sure that the drop target switch is operating properly .That can make the magnet coil act up..do a switch test..

#10331 1 year ago
Quoted from Bongiorno:

U need to make sure that the drop target switch is operating properly .That can make the magnet coil act up..do a switch test..

The single battlefield drop can make the magnet act up? That seems weird. The wall drop is working properly.

#10332 1 year ago

Check the opto switch.

#10334 1 year ago

Thanks. But my optos are working perfectly. It’s just the magnet and drop down coil for the battle field drop target that doesn’t work.

Gonna check all the fliptronic fuses then I guess transistors after I check if I have power at the magnet and drop down coil.

#10335 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Thanks. But my optos are working perfectly. It’s just the magnet and drop down coil for the battle field drop target that doesn’t work.
Gonna check all the fliptronic fuses then I guess transistors after I check if I have power at the magnet and drop down coil.

Let us know what you discover

#10336 1 year ago

Hi all,

I have an issue with my mini playfield motor, very likely due to the 2 Opto switches located underneath or something connecting them. I saw some people asking for similar issues but no clear answer, so why I am posting here.

The symptoms are the following:

- My kicker is slow going left, while it's fast going right.
- There is no mechanical issue on the motor, gearbox, sprocket, etc...
- All the opto switches pass the standalone tests alright
- On the Mini playfield test I can see the left opto switch opens and closes when the motor runs towards left, so the cause of the motor running/stoping/running/stoping... ultimately slowing down in that direction until the left limit is reached.
- On the same test the right opto behaves correctly and the motors goes straight to the right limit.
- I changed the left opto and diode on the left board, but the problem persists

I swapped the left and right opto boards and the same problem happens now on the right side with different symptom

The new symptom :
- The new sympton is the motor grinding towards the left at pinball start-up, and until I switch off the machine
- By closing the right opto with a piece of tape, I can startup without this grinding to reach the mini playfield test menu
- The minplayfiled test menu now reports an error
- by removing the tape I can activate the motor and now the right opto switch opens and closes when the motor is activating

I have swapped back the right and left opto boards and the symptoms are back to the same than at start, totally replicable.

It feels like both the old and new optos were out of spec, but the probality is low, and I am suspecting something deeper on the "10 opto board" located near the left flipper or on the 12v supply...

Have any one encounter that problem ? Do you have an idea of what could be the root cause ?

Thanks for any help!

#10337 1 year ago

Is it a known thing the tilt bob is very sensitive on these because they are light compared to other machines or is there something wrong with mine? I've tried adjusting it all the way down and it's still super sensitive

#10338 1 year ago
Quoted from data_eastside:

Is it a known thing the tilt bob is very sensitive on these because they are light compared to other machines or is there something wrong with mine? I've tried adjusting it all the way down and it's still super sensitive

Depends what you're comparing it to - all B/W WPC machines used the same tilt bob setup and all standard body WPC machines would be a similar weight.

There is no debounce capability or settings in WPC machines, so the tilt bob can trigger multiple times from a single nudge/slide. One way to address this is to use a foam earplug (you may need to cut it down) wedged in where the tilt bob pivots - what this does is to quickly deaden the swings to stop multiple tilt switch hits, yet it doesn't stop the tilt bob from swinging from the initial nudge

#10339 1 year ago
Quoted from data_eastside:

Is it a known thing the tilt bob is very sensitive on these because they are light compared to other machines or is there something wrong with mine? I've tried adjusting it all the way down and it's still super sensitive

I just posted about this a few posts up. I think, as Manny said, it’s the combination of being lighter and the lack of debounce. I did the foam ear plug trick and it kind of helped. I still see guests who aren’t used to it tilting on it more frequently then I think they should.

#10340 1 year ago

Sneaky deal of the weekend - This is the only post I will make about this on pinside.
5 sets will come with free shipping using this code. : 4W36-Y5NJ-2ZQN-7E8M
Set is 25%OFF - $30 for the next 3 days

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1054-flashinstinct/07465-the-shadow-decal-set
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

Added 12 months ago:

4 left

Added 12 months ago:

3 left

Added 12 months ago:

2 left

#10341 1 year ago
Quoted from cookpins:

I did the foam ear plug trick and it kind of helped. I still see guests who aren’t used to it tilting on it more frequently then I think they should.

Is the tilt bob perfectly centered in the loop? If it's off-center you can get some wild unexpected tilts. I put the earplug in mine a while ago and the tilt has been very predictable since.

#10342 1 year ago
Quoted from Totoche74:

Hi all,
I have an issue with my mini playfield motor, very likely due to the 2 Opto switches located underneath or something connecting them. I saw some people asking for similar issues but no clear answer, so why I am posting here.
The symptoms are the following:
- My kicker is slow going left, while it's fast going right.
- There is no mechanical issue on the motor, gearbox, sprocket, etc...
- All the opto switches pass the standalone tests alright
- On the Mini playfield test I can see the left opto switch opens and closes when the motor runs towards left, so the cause of the motor running/stoping/running/stoping... ultimately slowing down in that direction until the left limit is reached.
- On the same test the right opto behaves correctly and the motors goes straight to the right limit.
- I changed the left opto and diode on the left board, but the problem persists
I swapped the left and right opto boards and the same problem happens now on the right side with different symptom
The new symptom :
- The new sympton is the motor grinding towards the left at pinball start-up, and until I switch off the machine
- By closing the right opto with a piece of tape, I can startup without this grinding to reach the mini playfield test menu
- The minplayfiled test menu now reports an error
- by removing the tape I can activate the motor and now the right opto switch opens and closes when the motor is activating
I have swapped back the right and left opto boards and the symptoms are back to the same than at start, totally replicable.
It feels like both the old and new optos were out of spec, but the probality is low, and I am suspecting something deeper on the "10 opto board" located near the left flipper or on the 12v supply...
Have any one encounter that problem ? Do you have an idea of what could be the root cause ?
Thanks for any help!

Just to close that topic, my problem was linked to the 2 optos being out of spec, ( I procured them generic from pinball center while genuine williams spec parts are the only option), I also changed the capacitor in the middle of the driver board to get a better 12v.

#10343 1 year ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Sneaky deal of the weekend - This is the only post I will make about this on pinside.
5 sets will come with free shipping using this code. : 4W36-Y5NJ-2ZQN-7E8M
Set is 25%OFF - $30 for the next 3 days
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1054-flashinstinct/07465-the-shadow-decal-set
[quoted image]

Looks cool! I ordered a set. Thanks!

#10344 1 year ago

Nothing related, I got 3D printed phurba and would like to know how to best fix them above the rails. Do you guys have tips to share ?

022B051E-299F-48A4-806B-CDFCB33FDC17 (resized).jpeg022B051E-299F-48A4-806B-CDFCB33FDC17 (resized).jpeg5E9D8F27-C722-4F32-8BEE-8DEE312B13C8 (resized).jpeg5E9D8F27-C722-4F32-8BEE-8DEE312B13C8 (resized).jpeg
#10345 1 year ago

Ok, so I go to turn on my Shadow this afternoon and it doesn't do the boot sequence/sounds. There's power to the DMD but everything else is turned off. I've done a cursory check of wiring and fuses and now I'm off to the manual to see if there's something obvious I need to check but I also wanted to see if someone had a quick answer to what I should be checking next.

I probably will also go through the fuses more extensively here shortly as this feels like a likely cause.

TIA.

#10346 1 year ago
Quoted from Biju:

Ok, so I go to turn on my Shadow this afternoon and it doesn't do the boot sequence/sounds. There's power to the DMD but everything else is turned off. I've done a cursory check of wiring and fuses and now I'm off to the manual to see if there's something obvious I need to check but I also wanted to see if someone had a quick answer to what I should be checking next.
I probably will also go through the fuses more extensively here shortly as this feels like a likely cause.
TIA.

I think I might need to check the "blanking" as noted here:
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#WPC_and_WPC-S_Games_With_No_Solenoid.2C_Flasher_or_Feature_Lamps.2C_A_Blanking_Signal_Issue

According to this I should double-check the 12V filter cap on C2 for corrosion, then inspect the F114 and F115 fuses, and then check for continuity between U1 and U2. I'll start there and again if someone thinks they have a different thought I'd love to hear it.

thanks!

#10347 1 year ago
Quoted from Totoche74:

Nothing related, I got 3D printed phurba and would like to know how to best fix them above the rails. Do you guys have tips to share ?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I used the little holders that came strapped to some grill tongs lol.

03C69ACB-D572-4FAE-9CC3-86A4983EB9D8 (resized).jpeg03C69ACB-D572-4FAE-9CC3-86A4983EB9D8 (resized).jpeg29BABC40-D2F1-45F6-A620-F1145D95F88F (resized).jpeg29BABC40-D2F1-45F6-A620-F1145D95F88F (resized).jpeg
#10348 1 year ago
Quoted from Biju:

I think I might need to check the "blanking" as noted here:
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#WPC_and_WPC-S_Games_With_No_Solenoid.2C_Flasher_or_Feature_Lamps.2C_A_Blanking_Signal_Issue
According to this I should double-check the 12V filter cap on C2 for corrosion, then inspect the F114 and F115 fuses, and then check for continuity between U1 and U2. I'll start there and again if someone thinks they have a different thought I'd love to hear it.
thanks!

What do the 3 diagnostic LEDs (D19-D21) on the CPU board show when you start the game?

What voltage do you have at each of the Test Points (TP#) of the Power Driver Board?

Do you have the original audio board, if so does it do a single “bong” when you start the game?

#10349 1 year ago

Free shadow decal set if you post on this thread in less than 30 minutes

#10350 1 year ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Free shadow decal set if you post on this thread in less than 30 minutes

ok

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