Thank you so much--I did disconnect the J3 of the Opto board and fired it up and this is what messages I am getting. Maybe no power to the board? See the photo of the board with the game powered up. There is a Red Light on the board and is not lit...Supposed to be?

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With J3 disconnected the LED will not be lit, however it should be lit when J3 is connected. If this is not the case then use a DMM to check the voltage at TP1 on the Power Driver Board (towards the top left in the below diagram) and J116-2 (ensure that J116 is correctly seated), and also J3-2 on the sw10 opto board. Sw24 opto also draws power from J116-2 and has a power LED - check if the LED is on (#15 on the PF diagram below)

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Probably not your issue now but you should replace that cap on your opto board. It causes lots of weird opto issues when it gets far enough out of specs.

Hey -- Thanks for the feedback.. Help with the "Cap" statement how does it create issues..

Thanks in advance... More to come, this is a mission on the 3rd year not in action...

Everyone, thanks for the support and guidance. I am learn so much and having fun!

Optos tied to that board start going off-line or worse. Check out this entry in the Twilight Zone club recently.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/255#post-7132258

I replaced all mine, and everyone was out of specifications. Nothing was failed yet, but it was just a matter of time.

Oh Wow, these don't seam to be like mine.. Here are the boards in photo..But I also do not see the RED lamps light up, should they be? I still have to test the power source on T1..Yet to do..

Any further advise?

Thanks again, I am getting closer to playing

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Getting close to start working on fixing the sanctum area. Long shot, but does anyone know where I can get a “to the sanctum” decal? I might be able to work around the original one, but would be nice to repaint/clear the whole section.

Clearly you are not getting power to the opto boards - you need test the voltages at TP1 on the Power Driver Board and J116-2 (ensure that J116 is correctly seated). Let us know what you find

Thanks for the reply, testing this weekend coming.. Any guidance on the (+) position and (-) ground positions I should be taking with my meter?

Just to make sure I am getting the correct reading and photos to convey the appropriate information...

Thanks again in advance...

Set your DMM to Voltage or DC voltage (if available), put Black (-) on the earth braid in the backbox and Red (+) on TP1, it should read around 12V - if it doesn't pull fuse F116 and check it's continuity with your DMM (don't just do a visual check as it's not reliable). If you have power at TP1 then with the red test lead check J116-2, it should be the same voltage as TP1. If they have power then ensure that the J116 connector is properly seated, raise the PF and test the voltage of J3-2 on the sw10 opto board - if you have no power here (which given the LED is off in most likely the case) but you have power at J116-2 then the issue is in either the wiring or the connectors themselves

Ministry of Pinball has them. They have 2 shades of grey, light and dark. I can’t remember which was a better match. They are out of the darker one. Pinball Center in Germany has them, if you know someone outside the USA who can order one for you. They don’t ship here. I would try the Ministry version if your sanctum area is rough. You could just use the small, round, green/black dot decal that are available for around $5. Many owners have that. Looks like this (see below). good luck!

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Speaking of which, it’s probably wise to consider replacing 30-year-old opto boards on other pins like BSD too? I’ve had some intermittent switches firing for no reason, and I noticed my 10-opto board looked like this…I wasn’t sure it was a problem, but while Pinball Life had both the 10 and 24 opto boards in stock, I’m going to upgrade.

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Just finishing up working on my new shadow. I def the pf dead center there is a motor board and my grey/yellow wire is off. According to the manual (page 2-15) it shares the same spot on the connector as the 12v red wire. Anyone take a quick park under their pf to
Confirm ? Thx!
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Hope this helps, even if the purpose of my pictures was different (no wires off)

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The grey-yellow is the original 12v power wire from the power driver board. Either the red wire is for a mod or could have been put in due to a break in the original power wire that couldn’t be found & repaired

Thx for pics and explanation

appreciate it. I’ll check them out.

Manny thanks for explanation. Just curious in manual for that gray yellow wire it also says + 12v. What is that ?

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The grey-yellow is the original 12v power wire from the power driver board.

The red wire is-not part of the original wiring from the factory

Hey team, Just finished reviewing the list above..Finding are as follows:
--Fuse F116 is good
--Voltage from TP1 = 15.4
--Voltage from J116-2 = "0" (Also tested the post after removed wring harness and "0")
--Voltage from J116-1 = 4.9
--Voltage from J116-3 =15.7
--Voltage from J3-2 = Board is lit along with all others..

Weird thing is I go through a "Switch" Test and All the optos work including the ball thru..how is that possible, maybe moving wires on the main?

So now just the the only error is the "GND. SHORT ROW 4 --- WHT - YEL R4"

Please let me know your thoughts..ugh!

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Hey as all are helping, see this image and just the last images from this post and how NICE the boards are and no corrosion on any part (Very Clean) -- SOooo

How does one (Myself) clean them up and assure the game is clean and Corrosion eliminated?

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In case some of you haven’t seen. I just sent the shadow decal set to production. You have t’il Monday to take advantage of the sale price. After wards pricing is going up to regular $40 instead of $30

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-knows-target-decals-pre-order

Yep that's because J116-1 is the right most pin (not the left as you have drawn in your pic). Hence J116-2 is 15.7V which is why the opto boards are now powered - I suspect that J116 was causing the issue with no power getting to the boards and reseating it addressed the connectivity issue.

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Yep this goes back to the original ground short issue you posted. A ground short can be caused by a failed LM339 on the 10 switch opto board. If you disconnect J3 on the sw10 opto board (A-18159) and the ground short disappears then it'll confirm the LM339 is the issue.

---Here I am again, thanks for the support and the replies...

I have checked the (A-18159) opto board on J3 Removed and the message did not change (see photos)... A friend suggest to have the CPU board refurbished since I am also getting many different Cross over errors when go through a switch test..

Any further thoughts, this is my weekend to figure this game out.. It's been about 3 years now not working and now time to bring it alive and playing..

Thanks bunches from all of you on the Shadow "Team"

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Found this tread from a previous post on the switch test...

If the short is still there with that board removed from the equation, trace that white/yellow wire looking for anywhere it might be shorting to. If that is fine use a multimeter to check the diodes on the switches associated with that row in the switch matrix (page 2-40 in the manual).

Edit: since it's not so clear in the manual, switch no 24 (just labeled "always closed") is the coin door interlock switch.

Troubleshooting allows you to either identify or eliminate components, so your testing (disconnecting J3) shows that the sw10 opto board is not the source of the ground short.

Given you are getting other switch related issues, disconnect the switch inputs (other than from the coin door) to the CPU board and verify the switching on the CPU board by jumping the inputs - the procedure is described here https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Switch_Matrix_Problems. Any issues including if the ground short remains after disconnecting J206-J209 & J212, then the problem is on the CPU board; if however the CPU board works correctly with the connectors removed, then it proves the board is fine and the problem is either in the wiring or one of the boards on the PF.

Thank you and check all switches with wires and diodes in good standing. But--tracing the white/yellow and review the row to the left phurba control, the board on the wall below the phurba control has 2 different white/yellow connectors.. I removed the J3 connector off this board (A-17051-1) Coin door interface board and the error did not appear.. Now I am thinking this board is bad? (photo)

Also, the Relay in photo on the power board will "Click" (RLY1) quite a bit -- (All connectors in) Something new -- Ah Ha!---Now what??? OMG!

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Thank for the reply, my next step into the search -- I just posted about the Coin door board and your noted not too...HUH!

Wow--Something next to do..

Keep them coming team!

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The Shadow uses a fliptronics board for the flippers, while the flipper relay you pictured on the power driver board is only used on pre-fliptronics games - hence it is not used in this game. Circuitry could still potentially open and close the relay (which is the clicking you hear) but it's not an issue

To test the switching directly on the CPU board, you need to leave J205 connected to allow the diagnostic switches on the coin door working (this relates to J1 on the Coin Door Interface board, not J3).

If disconnecting J3 (this is J212 on the CPU board which I suggested disconnecting) removes the switch errors then it could be the board or any of the wiring that goes into the board. I'd suggest reconnecting J3 and disconnecting J5-J9 - if the error remains then it's the board otherwise it's downstream of the coin door interface board, in which case you'd connect each of J5-J9 to see where the problem is

Thanks bunches, and it's the CPU board and removed packed up and ready to be sent out... As soon as I tested the first pin, it triggered several and the next one too.. So off it goes!

I will follow up with the new board in place and "Hopefully" this game is in play!!!

Again, thank you and the team to get through these 2 years of finds and new awareness about pinball workings...

Wow, the clicking just started and is a new thing.. Maybe it's waking up -- Haha!

Loved the 3d printed Phurba so much.. I added another!

Thanks ACEDANGER

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I went pinball pro on my machine and it definitely improved the sound noticeably, particularly in the low end. If you go the diy route you’ll need to add a crossover to the cabinet speaker I believe.

Just listed my shadow for sale on fb marketplace to make room for godzilla coming in March. Any pinsiders that are interested ill take $200 off asking price right away and maybe more if it hasn't sold by March.

I got the standard one. Sounds great.

My metal switching ramps are beat up pretty good. Has anyone used the Mantis replacements? How would you rate them? Mine need major work.

I love my Mantis ramps. Well built and work great.

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The Mantis ramps are a superior product compared to OEM.

Nice looking Shadow you've got there!

Mantis ramps are worth the money. My ramps were re-welded together from a previous life, but that's one of the things that I want to replace. I put them in a friend's game and they're very nice.

Mine are the same. Have been rewelded and falling apart again. I’m going to try the mantis ramps. I was just more curious if they play the same as the others and the fit is good.

One more vote for mantis! The mounting alignment was slightly tricky but they are a far more durable design. My re-welded ramps had been blasted into 3 pieces each

Thank you. A lot of work went into it.

I’m having issues with an opto on the mini playfield for the motor left limit. My opto wasn’t working (left, right works fine) so I began investigating. I discovered the mini opto board was quite hacked with missing traces etc. I have since replaced the mini opto board and all components with a new board and new components, yet I still don’t have this switch register in test. I’ve checked continuity on the components and wiring and it all checks fine. I installed the opto with the “e” labelled on the e on the board. For some reason could this be backwards?

I’ve swapped one of the old working hacked boards back in and it works so I’m not sure what I’ve done wrong on the new board other than an opto maybe being flipped?

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There might be some adjustment that needs to be made fit-wise, but it should play the same. You'll be happy with them.

Not sure if anyone is interested but I’ve been working on my phurbas. I’ve incorporated a technique to make them look like real gold. First I gotta make ‘em ugly and vibrant…

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