Reston, VA
Quoted from Saltimbanco:Deleted post
Honestly, it was stupid what I said.. "cringey"
and I apologized to Art via PM. Sorry guys, ill definitely watch my knee jerk reactions here from now on. Have a good weekend!
(Topic ID: 46571)
Linked Games
Shadow, The
Bally, 1994
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Quoted from jonesjb:This looks great!!
I think it looks good too. It matches very well. Off the machine, they look a little wack, but once in there they look like they belong.
Well done!
Ottawa, ON
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Of course, my first choice would be cast metal, nicely polished
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^^This!!!^^ That would be awesome!
Also, great looking Sanctum there! (Is that something a guy can say to another 
) what's your secret?!! Lol
Pont-du-château
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:I love the grips but I am looking for something more movie like. Got a pearl grip in the works?[quoted image]
Yeah i think about doing that but... Making them in Real pearl Isnt possible... Impossible to find material.
This isnt my skills...
Quoted from Jjlp:Yeah i think about doing that but... Making them in Real pearl Isnt possible... Impossible to find material.
This isnt my skills...
Probably more feasible than ivory.
Quoted from acedanger:Got a few sets left over. FYI shipped all orders this morning.
[quoted image]
These look stellar. I highly recommend. Really great 3D printing quality/resolution.
Quoted from Saltimbanco:) what's your secret?!!
It started with picking up the game with about 1/2" of Dust on it, around 10 years ago.
Phatchit, here on Pinside did the restoration, and buffed out the playfield.
Theres a rub on the grey before the decal, which is covered in Mylar.
The GI received All Op Max....about the only game that the entire GI looks good this way.
There are post lights, but they are off.
I need to install Joes Shadow topper, and see if I want to add the light activated Battle Zone Mod laying around.
Id really love that car cover for the paddle!
Oh, an the game is still here, because its fast as hell, andd kicks my ass for all these years! 
Surahammar
On todays episode of “there I fixed it” is the sanctum wall push-up mechanism that’s mechanically flawed from the factory.
So I made a bushing out of two dry wall plugs. One 8mm and one 10mm on top of that.
Perfect mechanism now, let’s see for how long this holds up…
BBF6B461-74C4-412E-B4F4-01D1802D3F52 (resized).jpeg14C53513-34A1-4592-BC6B-22F7DA366906 (resized).jpeg28E6A4F4-CC15-4B06-9B78-1D64AE6D3B40 (resized).jpeg937646E0-43FA-4DA5-B949-A6790F103F73 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Gorgar666:Both used Shadow ramps $100+shipping welds not broken. Flaps could be better. Posting soon with pictures.
I don’t think I have ever seen used OEM Shadow ramps that didn’t have broken welds. That is impressive all by itself.
Hope the knee is better, Matt!
Giving this masterpiece a bump. Anyone needing a PIN2DMD, I have one left for $299. PM Matt for the files and I can do the rest.
Great work again, Matt!!!!
Joining this thread- picked up my Shadow last week for a crazy good price (at least to me) and have been having a blast ever since. Just played with a buddy for like 3 hours straight haha. Fixed an issue with the sanctum wall (switch arm not engaging correctly) and now have to work on figuring out why the mini playfield targets go down during a game and don't come back up. But I can't wait to figure it out. I got the pitch/leveling fixed today and the game has been playing 1000% better. This is the best purchase I've made it years
Quoted from data_eastside:Joining this thread- picked up my Shadow last week for a crazy good price (at least to me) and have been having a blast ever since. Just played with a buddy for like 3 hours straight haha. Fixed an issue with the sanctum wall (switch arm not engaging correctly) and now have to work on figuring out why the mini playfield targets go down during a game and don't come back up. But I can't wait to figure it out. I got the pitch/leveling fixed today and the game has been playing 1000% better. This is the best purchase I've made it years
Congrats! I bought my Shadow in 2019 for $4500, which was a lot for a nice Shadow at that time, even with color DMD and Aurich art package. I sold it to a friend for $4k to finance a high end pin I had to have, but I always missed my Shadow. 6 months later I bought her back, and it’s bolted to the floor now! I defeated Kahn once a couple years ago. I’ve started the final battle once or twice since, but didn’t get close to finishing it again. It’s not a super deep or complex pin, but it sure isn’t easy to beat! Enjoy yours!
53D50AE4-5748-4550-905C-A1035A73D8BE (resized).pngQuoted from Pinkitten:Congrats! I bought my Shadow in 2019 for $4500, which was a lot for a nice Shadow at that time, even with color DMD and Aurich art package. I sold it to a friend for $4k to finance a high end pin I had to have, but I always missed my Shadow. 6 months later I bought her back, and it’s bolted to the floor now! I defeated Kahn once a couple years ago. I’ve started the final battle once or twice since, but didn’t get close to finishing it again. It’s not a super deep or complex pin, but it sure isn’t easy to beat! Enjoy yours!
[quoted image]
I love Shadow.
It’s difficult yet not impossible like Creature.
It’s definitely a top 3 game for me.
Melbourne
Quoted from Pinkitten:Congrats! I bought my Shadow in 2019 for $4500, which was a lot for a nice Shadow at that time, even with color DMD and Aurich art package. I sold it to a friend for $4k to finance a high end pin I had to have, but I always missed my Shadow. 6 months later I bought her back, and it’s bolted to the floor now! I defeated Kahn once a couple years ago. I’ve started the final battle once or twice since, but didn’t get close to finishing it again. It’s not a super deep or complex pin, but it sure isn’t easy to beat! Enjoy yours!
[quoted image]
Had my Shadow for 6 years and defeated Kahn a couple of days ago (missed completing the 2nd set by 2 shots) - I love this game!
The Shadow (resized).jpgAnybody have any recommendations for first mods that will be the best bang for my buck? I was thinking of starting with LEDs
Quoted from data_eastside:Anybody have any recommendations for first mods that will be the best bang for my buck? I was thinking of starting with LEDs
These upgrades are all winners.
Comet LEDs
Titan bands
Aurich translite
Color DMD.
Quoted from data_eastside:Anybody have any recommendations for first mods that will be the best bang for my buck? I was thinking of starting with LEDs
Leds,
Mirror blades,
Color DMD,
In that order.
Quoted from attack7777:...Invisiglass
Im spoiled with these now, what a difference! I have to have them on every single game after buying a sheet.
Quoted from data_eastside:Anybody have any recommendations for first mods that will be the best bang for my buck? I was thinking of starting with LEDs
ColorDMD.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:These upgrades are all winners.
Comet LEDs
Titan bands
Aurich translite
Color DMD.
Purple twist lamp Domes, not a mod, but look nicer. IMO.
Quoted from data_eastside:Anybody have any recommendations for first mods that will be the best bang for my buck? I was thinking of starting with LEDs
MRS Switch is an absolute must
Quoted from Pinkitten:It’s not a super deep or complex pin, but it sure isn’t easy to beat! Enjoy yours!
I love the level of complexity, depth and difficulty on this machine. For me, it is balanced perfectly to turn off extra balls and still have a shot at Final Battle. And that way Im only playing 3 ball games even on my best games. Compare that to something like Avengers where a "really good game" ends up being 6 to 8 total balls with all of the earned extra balls. Even half decent games on AIQ end up being 4 balls for sure or more likely 5 or 6.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:MRS Switch is an absolute must
Agreed - For the left ramp/right divertor path. I only wish is that it mounted closer to the original switch location - has anyone done this? I'm not great with the delayed gratification of making the shot!
Quoted from shaub:I love the level of complexity, depth and difficulty on this machine. For me, it is balanced perfectly to turn off extra balls and still have a shot at Final Battle. And that way Im only playing 3 ball games even on my best games. Compare that to something like Avengers where a "really good game" ends up being 6 to 8 total balls with all of the earned extra balls. Even half decent games on AIQ end up being 4 balls for sure or more likely 5 or 6.
Me too! That’s why I generally prefer the 90’s era pins. It feels like I have a shot at finishing the game!
Does anybody know how the switch arm (pictured) is supposed to attach to the wall target assembly? The switch arm clearly wasn't engaging the switch and I was bending it around messing with it and it came detached. I can't find a clear picture that shows how it attaches to the wall target assembly. I also found this little white piece of plastic on the floor of the machine and thought maybe it was involved in attaching the switch arm to the assembly?
thumbnail (7) (resized).jpgthumbnail (8) (resized).jpgI have a dead pair of oem ramps, broken welds and sloppy broken re-welds. Idk if anyone wants to grind off the bad welds and redo them... lol free + shipping (I think it's like 20 for a medium flat rate box?) 
Quoted from data_eastside:Anybody have any recommendations for first mods that will be the best bang for my buck? I was thinking of starting with LEDs
Starting with the LEDs is a good place to begin with. Especially if you have any lamps out or need to clean anything.
I would also jump into the Aurich thread and keep watch if he’s going to do another run.
In my opinion, sound is more impactful than getting the DMD colorized as you are always hearing the audio. I also love the soundtrack to the cheesy movie that wanted to be dark like Burton’s Batman; but, also cheesy like West’s 60’s romp. I put together a Pinsound mix that changes the audio and sound effects to bring it inline with modern movie themed pins.
I then got around to colorizing the DMD and made a package for Pin2DMD.
It’s a fantastic game and one that I have a hard time walking away from without 10 or so games.
Quoted from data_eastside:Does anybody know how the switch arm (pictured) is supposed to attach to the wall target assembly? The switch arm clearly wasn't engaging the switch and I was bending it around messing with it and it came detached. I can't find a clear picture that shows how it attaches to the wall target assembly. I also found this little white piece of plastic on the floor of the machine and thought maybe it was involved in attaching the switch arm to the assembly?[quoted image][quoted image]
Not sure if this picture helps or not. It's a bit deceiving, but the switch lever does not get activated by the metal "arm" sticking out. It gets activated by the actual target dropping down. I don't think that white piece has anything to do with any of it.
20220517_210349 (resized).jpgQuoted from data_eastside:Does anybody know how the switch arm (pictured) is supposed to attach to the wall target assembly? The switch arm clearly wasn't engaging the switch and I was bending it around messing with it and it came detached. I can't find a clear picture that shows how it attaches to the wall target assembly. I also found this little white piece of plastic on the floor of the machine and thought maybe it was involved in attaching the switch arm to the assembly?[quoted image][quoted image]
The switch actuator arm clips onto 2 small nodules on the switch body (which is under the metal plate with the red arrow in the bottom pic), allowing the arm to pivot and trigger the switch - check out the pic which shows a microswitch with the actuator arm attached.
Rather than bending the actuator arm to adjust the switch, try loosening the 2 screws holding the switch and rotate/move the switch body to align it such that the falling drop target triggers the switch.
Quoted from Manny65:The switch actuator arm clips onto 2 small nodules on the switch body (which is under the metal plate with the red arrow in the bottom pic), allowing the arm to pivot and trigger the switch - check out the pic which shows a microswitch with the actuator arm attached.
[quoted image]
Rather than bending the actuator arm to adjust the switch, try loosening the 2 screws holding the switch and rotate/move the switch body to align it such that the falling drop target triggers the switch.
[quoted image]
Better said than my response. I misread the post.
Quoted from epeabs:Not sure if this picture helps or not. It's a bit deceiving, but the switch lever does not get activated by the metal "arm" sticking out. It gets activated by the actual target dropping down. I don't think that white piece has anything to do with any of it.
[quoted image]
THAT is one BEAUTIFULLY clean machine!!! Nice work!!! 
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:THAT is one BEAUTIFULLY clean machine!!! Nice work!!!
Thank you. Not exactly "stock".
20220416_200016 (resized).jpg20220427_130209 (resized).jpg20220331_220950 (resized).jpg20220417_191233 (resized).jpgQuoted from Manny65:The switch actuator arm clips onto 2 small nodules on the switch body (which is under the metal plate with the red arrow in the bottom pic), allowing the arm to pivot and trigger the switch - check out the pic which shows a microswitch with the actuator arm attached.
[quoted image]
Rather than bending the actuator arm to adjust the switch, try loosening the 2 screws holding the switch and rotate/move the switch body to align it such that the falling drop target triggers the switch.
[quoted image]
Thank you sir. I just went ahead and ordered a new switch for 5 bucks since the nodules on the switch I have are broken off and so the actuator doesn't attach to it well. I had it rigger up but it lasted only a few hours so hopefully this will work long term. I appreciate you helping a noob like me out
Quoted from acedanger:Got a few sets left over. FYI shipped all orders this morning.
[quoted image]
I'm listening to the latest 'Bro, Do You Even Pinball' podcast and the bit at the end, 'Topper Talk', and they discuss acetone vapor smooting of ABS 3D prints. Have you heard of or tried this with your prints?
https://all3dp.com/2/abs-acetone-smoothing-3d-print-vapor-smoothing/
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:I'm listening to the latest 'Bro, Do You Even Pinball' podcast and the bit at the end, 'Topper Talk', and they discuss acetone vapor smooting of ABS 3D prints. Have you heard of or tried this with your prints?
https://all3dp.com/2/abs-acetone-smoothing-3d-print-vapor-smoothing/
[quoted image]
Noob pinball question... what are the thoughts on extra balls? For Shadow a big part of my strategy is gunning for them above other multiballs/scenes. Do most people use them? Is it like 50/50 for who uses them and who doesn't or more/less? I want to be playing a fair game so I can judge my score against other people who play. On a related note, are the Luppin Rules considered the gold standard for Shadow rules by most players? What do you do for the rules he doesn't mention like regular ball save, outlane width, etc?
Quoted from data_eastside:Noob pinball question... what are the thoughts on extra balls? For Shadow a big part of my strategy is gunning for them above other multiballs/scenes. Do most people use them? Is it like 50/50 for who uses them and who doesn't or more/less? I want to be playing a fair game so I can judge my score against other people who play. On a related note, are the Luppin Rules considered the gold standard for Shadow rules by most players? What do you do for the rules he doesn't mention like regular ball save, outlane width, etc?
I always run my games on factory settings with only change of setting it to free play.
I see no reason to change things around. I’ve read about the Luppin rules but if I’m going to learn the games and be overall decent at them I need to play them as they’re setup most of the times and that’s factory settings + playfield at the angle said in the manual.
But everyone is different, some needs to modify everything and tweak around while others just enjoy to play it.
Finally got my shit together and swapped out all of the purple bulbs to standard white on the GI. So much better.
Still debating wether I like the blue LEDs on the scenes or not.
9C1153BE-A7D0-4353-A80B-3BD06946D720 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from ViperTim:Finally got my shit together and swapped out all of the purple bulbs to standard white on the GI. So much better.
Still debating wether I like the blue LEDs on the scenes or not.
[quoted image]
I personally dig the purple look.
20220825_002329 (resized).jpg20220824_234033 (resized).jpg20220824_234022 (resized).jpg20220824_234007 (resized).jpgQuoted from Luke_Nukem:I personally dig the purple look.
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Sorry but I would not play that at all.
But everybody is different!
Once upon a time I frowned upon white LED over incandescent but I’ve started to turn around a little on that one.
Quoted from ViperTim:Sorry but I would not play that at all.
But everybody is different!
Once upon a time I frowned upon white LED over incandescent but I’ve started to turn around a little on that one.
Well the cool thing is.... You never have to worry about getting an invite to play
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:Well the cool thing is.... You never have to worry about getting an invite to play
It’s pretty far away as well
Extra balls are off on my Shadow. It's an easy game to make the wizard mode on, there's no need for them.
But, all settings are really customization features, there's no wrong answer when you choose the settings that allow you to enjoy your pin the most.
Quoted from Maken:Extra balls are off on my Shadow. It's an easy game to make the wizard mode on, there's no need for them.
But, all settings are really customization features, there's no wrong answer when you choose the settings that allow you to enjoy your pin the most.
Bro how pitched is your game? Mine is setup like PAPAs. Fucking crazy brutal and fast. Can barely get 2 shadow loops without it crashing into something and smacking the glass.
I hate playing 90s pinballs that are setup like 70s EMs... slow af.
Quoted from data_eastside:On a related note, are the Luppin Rules considered the gold standard for Shadow rules by most players? What do you do for the rules he doesn't mention like regular ball save, outlane width, etc?
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