The Cliffy's work awesome. His work is top notch as always. The Shadow has been missing these for years.
The Cliffy's work awesome. His work is top notch as always. The Shadow has been missing these for years.
Hi there,
love this game, unfortunatley my speaker panel is ruined…
Don‘t like repros…
If someone has a spare original speaker panel for Shadow in good condition please let me know.
Thanks.
My Shadow rebuild is complete. Project started the beginning of December, and I have been running it through its paces for a couple of days. Maybe a tweak or two left to do, but essentially done.
20220427_130209 (resized).jpg20220427_130217 (resized).jpg20220427_130229 (resized).jpg20220402_151525 (resized).jpg20220328_204600 (resized).jpgQuoted from epeabs:My Shadow rebuild is complete. Project started the beginning of December, and I have been running it through its paces for a couple of days. Maybe a tweak or two left to do, but essentially done.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wow - that's purty!
Quoted from HooperTriplett:For those you bought the new Cliffys, where are you putting your single bank drop protectors?
Battlefield VUK and Sanctum drop.
20220314_165051 (resized).jpgQuoted from epeabs:My Shadow rebuild is complete. Project started the beginning of December, and I have been running it through its paces for a couple of days. Maybe a tweak or two left to do, but essentially done.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great! And nice cityscape background there
Quoted from jonesjb:Looks great! And nice cityscape background there
It does look great. Thank you for producing it.
Quoted from Gorgar666:How smooth are the Cliffy’s guide lanes work? Report back….
It’s by far the best product he offers. Priceless. I get them for every game and it’s the only product of his I feel is truly necessary.
I wanted to say thanks to Matt and m&m creations. Just installed his MRS switch on my shadow and it's such a delight to see it register every single time.
I may add them to the switches on the orbits too, if I get good ripping shot on either orbit the ball can sneak around the switches, it doesn't happen as much as the dredded right side of left ramp but it happens enough to bug me. Anyone else sneaking around the orbit switches from time to time?
Quoted from robd222:I wanted to say thanks to Matt and m&m creations. Just installed his MRS switch on my shadow and it's such a delight to see it register every single time.
I may add them to the switches on the orbits too, if I get good ripping shot on either orbit the ball can sneak around the switches, it doesn't happen as much as the dredded right side of left ramp but it happens enough to bug me. Anyone else sneaking around the orbit switches from time to time?
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I also had periodic unregistered orbits, but was able to make physical adjustments. I can't remember what I did, but now orbits are working 100%. Didn't need a MRS to fix it.
But the MRS I added on the right side of the left ramp was the only way I got that switch to work with 100% accuracy.
Hi guys. I’d be interested in finding and installing these MRS switches on my shadow. Do you know where to purchase the appropriate one ?
How many of them did you change ?
Thank you for your answers
Quoted from Turtlemaster:Hi guys. I’d be interested in finding and installing these MRS switches on my shadow. Do you know where to purchase the appropriate one ?
How many of them did you change ?
Thank you for your answers
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mampm-creations-mrs-catalog
Here is the specific post regarding the MRS for Shadow:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/150#post-5845305
Anyone got a few plastics they wanna part with? Basically the 3 larger ones +1...I know the set is available.. May do that...anyone what to split the set and the cost with me?//? i will order ..message me..
Quoted from Gorgar666:Anyone got a few plastics they wanna part with? Basically the 3 larger ones +1...I know the set is available.. May do that...anyone what to split the set and the cost with me?//? i will order ..message me..
Just buy the set. The colors are drastically different from OEM. You need to swap everything or it looks funny.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Just buy the set. The colors are drastically different from OEM. You need to swap everything or it looks funny.
Why are the colors different?
Quoted from jonesjb:Why are the colors different?
That is a CPR mystery. OEM orange became brown when the plastics were reproduced.
Quoted from RTS:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mampm-creations-mrs-catalog
Here is the specific post regarding the MRS for Shadow:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/150#post-5845305
Thanks very much ! How many of these switches have you guys installed on your Shadow? Just the left to right ramp ?
The Shadow “Shots” are are so Dependent on the alignment of your flippers….make sure they are perfect Align with the ball guide Lane…
Quoted from Turtlemaster:Thanks very much ! How many of these switches have you guys installed on your Shadow? Just the left to right ramp ?
The MRS switch by Sonic is specifically designed to replace the microswitch for the right side of the left ramp. The MRS switch fits on to the wireform just above the upper right flipper and the connector/wire is long enough to go under the PF to connect up with the original connector that the microswitch plugged. into.
I don't believe any other switch on The Shadow needs to be replaced with a MRS switch and if you wanted to use the MRS switch to replace another switch it'd most likely require changing the MRS mount and connector.
Quoted from chuckwurt:It’s by far the best product he offers. Priceless. I get them for every game and it’s the only product of his I feel is truly necessary.
Nice Info. After reading your comment I checked all my Pins. Yes, Gorgar is the worse. Shadow is going to wait for now. I can’t believe, that I’ve been playing it that way…
Quoted from Santis:Please can someone tell me where to get The Battlefield sticker? thank you
Quoted from Santis:Hi. Please can someone tell me where to get The Battlefield sticker? thank you
[quoted image]
You can also ask [email protected]
Don't know if he's got some left to sell but they were great!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinballplatingcom-chrome-brass-black-nickel-powder-coating/page/26#post-5882998
Quoted from Saltimbanco:You can also ask [email protected]
Did he ever sell just the stickers ?
Quoted from ruzeo:Did he ever sell just the stickers ?
Dunno, but you could pick between standard or golden sticker when buying a battlefield shroud, if you remember. So makes sense he would have extra stickers somehow? I got the black nickel shroud at the time, just a fantastic piece. Just glad I could replace that unobtanium original part!
Hi all,
I've been working on my shadow the past few days and I've been thinking about modifying the sanctum bottom switch to be a roller style actuator rather than the leaf style actuator. Seems like it would make a lot more sense to do that, but would require drilling new switch mount holes closer to the end of the bracket. Anybody do modifications to this mech to make it a little more sturdy?
I've also noticed quite a few small mechanical differences and a few red boards in my shadow..... playfield artwork is definitely the production run but wondering if I might have an early sample or test on my hands. There were a bunch of chicken scratch test notes in the envelope/goodie bag when I picked it up.
IMG_5854.JPG (resized).jpegIMG_5855.JPG (resized).jpegIf anybody has a magnet & opto bracket w/nut part A-18387 to sell me that would be considerably cheaper than buying one from Marco, please let me know. Magnet is fine, but the core and bracket on mine are absolutely shot.
Alright folks. The sun is shining, but the ice is slippery.
Needing some collective head scratching on an issue I'm having with my Shadow.
The issue I'm running into is that the magnet isn't catching the ball on the initial part of the ball lock show cycle.
Upon rebuilding my flippers (wow so snappy and strong how did I wait so long to do this!) the ball now flys so fast through the optos that the magnet isn't able to stop the ball in its tracks. Instead, it flys past, bounced off the drop target, which gives it a little air, and then misses the ball entirely on its way back down. This only happens when I'm shooting a forehand shot on the left flipper and doesn't bounce across the metal guides (swooshes only).
I'm afraid to "just increase the strength of the magnet" by moving it closer to the playfield because I feel like that's what originally caused so much burn and drama in its original run out on location. My Sanctum area is pretty nice and was mylar'd early so I'd hate to damage it.
I am having a hard time figuring out if the optos are the issue or how to get them to align better of send signal quicker (if that's even a thing). They work properly in the test setting and they are solidly mounted onto the bracket. I've cleaned them (they were a wee bit dirty but not bad).
It is NOT an issue of the Sanctum drop so don't even suggest it. Fully rebuilt. Switch working actively. Drop target sequence works perfectly every time. When the magnet does catch the ball, it throws it in properly and everything.
Quoted from radial_head:Alright folks. The sun is shining, but the ice is slippery.
Needing some collective head scratching on an issue I'm having with my Shadow.
The issue I'm running into is that the magnet isn't catching the ball on the initial part of the ball lock show cycle.
Upon rebuilding my flippers (wow so snappy and strong how did I wait so long to do this!) the ball now flys so fast through the optos that the magnet isn't able to stop the ball in its tracks. Instead, it flys past, bounced off the drop target, which gives it a little air, and then misses the ball entirely on its way back down. This only happens when I'm shooting a forehand shot on the left flipper and doesn't bounce across the metal guides (swooshes only).
I'm afraid to "just increase the strength of the magnet" by moving it closer to the playfield because I feel like that's what originally caused so much burn and drama in its original run out on location. My Sanctum area is pretty nice and was mylar'd early so I'd hate to damage it.
I am having a hard time figuring out if the optos are the issue or how to get them to align better of send signal quicker (if that's even a thing). They work properly in the test setting and they are solidly mounted onto the bracket. I've cleaned them (they were a wee bit dirty but not bad).
It is NOT an issue of the Sanctum drop so don't even suggest it. Fully rebuilt. Switch working actively. Drop target sequence works perfectly every time. When the magnet does catch the ball, it throws it in properly and everything.
I have never had a shot the magnet couldn't catch. What does you magnet coil ohm out at? It could be going bad.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:I have never had a shot the magnet couldn't catch. What does you magnet coil ohm out at? It could be going bad.
Magnet coil reads 4.9 ohm. Seems in spec.
Time to move the magnet closer to the playfield I guess. I doubt the optos are the issue. They either work or they don’t.
Quoted from radial_head:Alright folks. The sun is shining, but the ice is slippery.
Needing some collective head scratching on an issue I'm having with my Shadow.
The issue I'm running in
My game was doing that. Then I realize the problem was in the switch of the drop target( wall). Once I adjust it properly it stated to worked good. The long leg in the switch will tell cpu wall still up then it will not active properly the magnet. Good luck.
Quoted from Santis:Then I realize the problem was in the switch of the drop target( wall). Once I adjust it properly it stated to worked good. The long leg in the switch will tell cpu wall still up then it will not active properly the magnet.
Nope. You're misreading the issue I'm describing. The magnet works properly and goes through its sequence properly (you can hear the magnet work through its sequence). In fact, if you make the shot cleanly, the magnet missed the ball, then you make the shot again in a more gentle fashion before it does its release and throw, the sequence and ball lock/throw effect still works perfectly.
@mad_dog_coin_op, or anybody in this thread, maybe I'm not fully understanding the magnet adjustment. I assumed that the adjustable threaded core, moving farther down the thread (closer to the playfield righty tighty fashion) increased the magnet power. Is that the correct line of thinking? About how far poking through the magnet do you all have yours adjusted to?
I think the issue is the optos still. I've noticed that mine aren't perfectly aligned through the cut holes in the metal guides. Partially because the magnet was over adjusted and was bending the bracket, and misaligning the optos. Was hoping that recentering the optos would magicaly fix the issue but no dice. Still can't catch the ball.
Time to move the magnet closer to the playfield I guess. I doubt the optos are the issue. They either work or they don’t.
Quoted from radial_head:Nope. You're misreading the issue I'm describing. The magnet works properly and goes through its sequence properly (you can hear the magnet work through its sequence). In fact, if you make the shot cleanly, the magnet missed the ball, then you make the shot again in a more gentle fashion before it does its release and throw, the sequence and ball lock/throw effect still works perfectly.
Mad_Dog_Coin_Op, or anybody in this thread, maybe I'm not fully understanding the magnet adjustment. I assumed that the adjustable threaded core, moving farther down the thread (closer to the playfield righty tighty fashion) increased the magnet power. Is that the correct line of thinking? About how far poking through the magnet do you all have yours adjusted to?
I think the issue is the optos still. I've noticed that mine aren't perfectly aligned through the cut holes in the metal guides. Partially because the magnet was over adjusted and was bending the bracket, and misaligning the optos. Was hoping that recentering the optos would magicaly fix the issue but no dice. Still can't catch the ball.
Yes, moving the core of the magnet closer to the bottom of the playfield should do the trick (if there is room to make the adjustment). My Shadow and HH are both at my vacation house so I can’t help you with the actual gap measurement. But like I said before, I can’t shoot the brick wall without being captured by the magnet. It literally will catch anything once the opto is tripped.
Well, I keep finding new things/oddities about my Shadow. First, red boards all over. Second, a bunch of mechanical differences with the sanctum targets. Then, this: my the steel guides have a different cutout than most guides I've seen on every other production Shadow out there... Seems like my game was still undergoing some tweaking when it went out on test/sample/early production/late proto???
Every other Shadow I've seen has the opto holes cut all the way down to the bottom of the guide (making the magnet adjustment actually do something). Right now if I adjust my magnet to be stronger, it puts the optos out of alignment of these holes.
Talk about a mystery.
IMG_5931 (resized).JPGIMG_5932 (resized).JPGQuoted from radial_head:Well, I keep finding new things/oddities about my Shadow. First, red boards all over. Second, a bunch of mechanical differences with the sanctum targets. Then, this: my the steel guides have a different cutout than most guides I've seen on every other production Shadow out there... Seems like my game was still undergoing some tweaking when it went out on test/sample/early production/late proto???
Every other Shadow I've seen has the opto holes cut all the way down to the bottom of the guide (making the magnet adjustment actually do something). Right now if I adjust my magnet to be stronger, it puts the optos out of alignment of these holes.
Talk about a mystery.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from radial_head:Well, I keep finding new things/oddities about my Shadow. First, red boards all over. Second, a bunch of mechanical differences with the sanctum targets. Then, this: my the steel guides have a different cutout than most guides I've seen on every other production Shadow out there... Seems like my game was still undergoing some tweaking when it went out on test/sample/early production/late proto???
Every other Shadow I've seen has the opto holes cut all the way down to the bottom of the guide (making the magnet adjustment actually do something). Right now if I adjust my magnet to be stronger, it puts the optos out of alignment of these holes.
Talk about a mystery.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Red boards usually mean prototype game BTW.
Quoted from EStroh:Red boards usually mean prototype game BTW.
They do, but the Shadow Prototype Prototype (like the real deal) had quite a few differences in playfield artwork from what I've seen. I would be surprised if the boards were just leftover from a prototype run as they're not ALL red. Just some of the main light boards.
Is there any way to tell from the serial number where it is in the production run? I've always been told that WPC serial numbers are pretty arbitrary and unless there is a grand record of all the shadows out there with all of their numbers, we won't really be able to gleam much.
From what I can gleam from the labels, it's not anything special.
IMG_5940 (resized).JPGAnyway, what's a good way to cut through those guides? I have a feeling hte best way to do it is probably with a Dremel but wondering if anybody has any ideas on how to do something a tiny bit cleaner. I've never had to do any work with these things before.
Finally joined the club. Played this game as a kid at the local cinema, always loved the machine but rarely saw it on location. Went from memory and a whole bunch of reviews/videos and pulled the trigger on a decent example. Managed to pick it up a couple weeks ago for a reasonable price in today's market. (It also came with a full set of decals).
Aside from a few minor issues which have mostly been ironed out already, it was fully functioning. Threw in spotlights and some warm LEDs which contrast the JM nicely, although I will need to invest in an LEDOCD to soften up the inserts. Really think this machine needs it unlike the JM which kinda suits the harsh on/off the LEDs provide. Replaced some switches, springs, ring lights, added the correct left flipper coil and a touch of resoldering but still waiting for some new rubbers and a flipper rebuild kit.
Same plan is with the Johnny, enjoy it for a few years and when the time comes a full restore will be in order. Already purchased a CPR plastic set and it came with the decals, the translight is also in great condition. Will need a new mini Playfield and will have to redo a pretty average sanctum repair job. For the moment the Sanctum is barely noticeable so gave it a clean up and threw some mylar on. Have been reading through this thread over the last month taking notes of all the useful information, still close to a hundred pages to read.....
Screenshot_20220522-135819 (resized).pngQuoted from radial_head:Anyway, what's a good way to cut through those guides? I have a feeling hte best way to do it is probably with a Dremel but wondering if anybody has any ideas on how to do something a tiny bit cleaner. I've never had to do any work with these things before.
Dremel may work. Might go more aggressive with a drill and a carbide burr. Be much quicker I’m sure.
Quoted from nams:Finally joined the club. Played this game as a kid at the local cinema, always loved the machine but rarely saw it on location. Went from memory and a whole bunch of reviews/videos and pulled the trigger on a decent example. Managed to pick it up a couple weeks ago for a reasonable price in today's market. (It also came with a full set of decals).
Aside from a few minor issues which have mostly been ironed out already, it was fully functioning. Threw in spotlights and some warm LEDs which contrast the JM nicely, although I will need to invest in an LEDOCD to soften up the inserts. Really think this machine needs it unlike the JM which kinda suits the harsh on/off the LEDs provide. Replaced some switches, springs, ring lights, added the correct left flipper coil and a touch of resoldering but still waiting for some new rubbers and a flipper rebuild kit.
Same plan is with the Johnny, enjoy it for a few years and when the time comes a full restore will be in order. Already purchased a CPR plastic set and it came with the decals, the translight is also in great condition. Will need a new mini Playfield and will have to redo a pretty average sanctum repair job. For the moment the Sanctum is barely noticeable so gave it a clean up and threw some mylar on. Have been reading through this thread over the last month taking notes of all the useful information, still close to a hundred pages to read.....
[quoted image]
Welcome to the club! Favorite game in my collection!
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