Quoted from EStroh:

First
Put the machine in switch edge test mode. Pass your finger back and forth through the beam. Make sure it goes off each time.
Second
Check the wires to the optos and opto board. Check for a loose wire or cracked solder at the header pins. Maybe reflow solder on each just to be sure.
I would bet against your issue being one of light interference. i'd bet it's an electrical continuity issue.

Quoted from t2:

Thanks for the advice! When I do this it trips on the sides but in the middle it is spuratic and doesn't always trip.
Tried adjusting the optos and using a glare guard but same results. Not sure where to look now.

Quoted from Chitownpinball:

So answer me this. How does adding powder coat to wire forms not slow the ball down? Is the surface really just as smooth as a polished form? I wonder...

Quoted from Pinkitten:

If the powder looks REALLY good the ball will sometimes slow down to get a better look at it. Otherwise, it’s pretty much the same.

Quoted from Pinkitten:

If the powder looks REALLY good the ball will sometimes slow down to get a better look at it. Otherwise, it’s pretty much the same.

Quoted from Taygeta:

Big thanks to Sonic for the MRS mod. I’m on my 3rd Shadow and this is the first time the left ramp’s right diverter has worked consistently. What a difference it makes!

Quoted from Taygeta:

If anyones looking to join the club I’ve just put my Shadow up for sale. Hate to part with it so soon, but out of room.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-shadow-the-114#post-6761881

Quoted from ruzeo:

I see the machine sold already but can anybody answer to the different colored cape on the playfield? Is it just sun worn or is it from factory?

Quoted from Taygeta:

Hard to tell, considering the cabinet wasn’t faded and the color on the PF is even across the whole cape, I’m guessing the wrong ink was used during printing or something. I’ve seen plenty of faded playfields on this era of game but this looks entirely different

Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I disagree, that was totally faded in my opinion. Red is always the first to go. If you look closely all the red was off even on the cabinet.

Quoted from Happy81724:

yeah, it looks faded and with the side being faded you know it had sun on it.

Quoted from TwilightZone:

The right side of the cabinet has some fade, but left looks pretty good. I've never seen such dramatic fade on the playfield cape. It would take some serious sun exposure to do that and I think the cab would be way more faded. Also, notice the red on the plastics aren't faded badly.
I'm thinking the error on the playfield is original.

Quoted from ruzeo:

I guess the world will never know.
[quoted image]

Quoted from ruzeo:

I guess the world will never know.
[quoted image]

Quoted from tiltmonster:

Ahh... that's really weird, now I want a tootsie pop?

Quoted from Pinkitten:

That owl taught us all exactly how many licks it takes to get to the center of a Tootsie Pop. He cheated though.

Quoted from ViperTim:

Just joined The Shadow club.
Amazing game so far but I’m not many plays into it. Difficult but still not straight drainage continuously.
Game is in good shape, got a repair at the sanctum that looks nothing like factory although it looks OK. I’m just gonna leave it as I can’t make it any better myself anyways.
But one issue this machine has is balls getting stuck EVERYWHERE. So I’ve gotta sort that out…
Also I got to remove some incorrect LEDs as it looks wrong in my opinion. Like the blue on the translite and blue in the scene texts.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from ViperTim:

Just joined The Shadow club.
Amazing game so far but I’m not many plays into it. Difficult but still not straight drainage continuously.
Game is in good shape, got a repair at the sanctum that looks nothing like factory although it looks OK. I’m just gonna leave it as I can’t make it any better myself anyways.
But one issue this machine has is balls getting stuck EVERYWHERE. So I’ve gotta sort that out…
Also I got to remove some incorrect LEDs as it looks wrong in my opinion. Like the blue on the translite and blue in the scene texts.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from JvdS:

Looks quite good man! Nice machine, also the Sanctum repair looks good (you can not repair it better in my opinion).

Quoted from ViperTim:

Thank you.
The guy I bought it from is excellent at free hand painting it seems. He said it’s decent and he wasn’t super serious when he did it because he wanted to redo it all but I say the free handed lettering on the sanctum is spot on, better than anything I could ever do.
No idea how anybody can freehand letters like that, it’s magic.

Quoted from Pinkitten:

That’s amazing if it’s a free-hand paint job, but they make a decal that looks just like that in different shades. I have a couple different versions. I would bet that’s a decal like this….
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from paulbaptiste:

Any links to the lighter gray version? I never saw one in the states. Mine is the darker gray and would like to fix at some point.

Quoted from ViperTim:

Yes it is free hand painted.
Somehow he (the seller) seemed a bit ashamed of his work.
I’m speechless of how fantastic it looks.

Worst of all they get stuck in the trough which is incomprehensible to me. I can’t find any ridges or dimples where they get stuck but somehow they do. They don’t roll down to the lockup sometimes.
Also it’s gotten stuck several times when falling down from the battlefield. Stuck on plastics, wire forms etc.

Quoted from ViperTim:

Yes it is free hand painted.
Somehow he (the seller) seemed a bit ashamed of his work.
I’m speechless of how fantastic it looks.

Worst of all they get stuck in the trough which is incomprehensible to me. I can’t find any ridges or dimples where they get stuck but somehow they do. They don’t roll down to the lockup sometimes.
Also it’s gotten stuck several times when falling down from the battlefield. Stuck on plastics, wire forms etc.

Quoted from jonesjb:

Try replacing the balls, you want carbon steel pinballs (not chrome).

Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Stuck in the trough sounds like magnetized balls to me.

Quoted from radial_head:

So if I get a new game that works (as in, I can play it without having to shop it to literally get it working) I like to get to the wizard mode before I shop it. So in this case, I have a while before I dig into it.
One thing I've noticed consistently is that the game has trouble "keeping track" of balls during multiple-ball. For example, it doesn't consistently kick out the right number of balls during each multi ball. Khan multi ball will sometimes kick out 2 and sometimes kick out 4 (and I think it's supposed to only kick out 3 every time).
The balls sometime take a bit of time to register when draining.
Upon starting up, the trough kicker kicks twice.
I'm guessing I just need to go through and clean and maybe replace the trough optos, but any other things I should be looking at?

Quoted from radial_head:

Upon starting up, the trough kicker kicks twice.

Quoted from Bakerman:

Mine does this too. Never found out why but it plays perfectly!

Quoted from jonesjb:

Mine too, I suspected this is normal, never thought otherwise.

Quoted from radial_head:

Upon starting up, the trough kicker kicks twice.

Quoted from EStroh:

Most likely the balls are magnetized and somewhat "stuck" in the trough... not rolling all the way down to the end.
The first kick frees them up ( "jostles" them ) so that they can roll down to the end. The second kick puts one in the shooter lane.

Quoted from radial_head:

Upon starting up, the trough kicker kicks twice.
I'm guessing I just need to go through and clean and maybe replace the trough optos, but any other things I should be looking at?

Quoted from Manny65:

I just worked out what you were referring to and mine does that too. I just tested powering up on my machine - it's not the trough kickout that fires twice, it's the shooter lane plunger. As to why it does it I'm not sure but sounds like it's been programmed into the power on self test.
So no need to clean/replace the trough optos

Quoted from CashMoney:

Very strange, my old T2 did this same thing!

Quoted from Manny65:

I've not seen this on my T2's (running L-8 code) I am running LG-4 on the Shadow (latest is L-6 although no mention of this particular behaviour in any of the change logs) - it'd be interesting to see what version someone has if their game doesn't have the double plunger fire on power-up

Quoted from Dokkaebi:

Joining the club. Have been searching for a shadow for a while and finally got one. Looking for the Aurich package missed that final run unfortunately.
Any things to look for & do if I'm tearing it down to clean and LED. Game is totally stock.

Quoted from Dokkaebi:

Joining the club. Have been searching for a shadow for a while and finally got one. Looking for the Aurich package missed that final run unfortunately.
Any things to look for & do if I'm tearing it down to clean and LED. Game is totally stock.

Quoted from grantopia:

I'd recommend cool white LEDs. My vision isn't the greatest anyway, but my game came to me with the sunlight LEDs and I still found it to be really dark, especially the battlefield. I use cool white for all my games anyway, but it really brightened this one up.

Quoted from radial_head:

I was about to recommend exactly against this, but I guess everybody's eyes are different.
Spotlights are a must on this game IMO.
If you do an LED job on a WPC game without an LEDOCD board, well, you've done an incomplete LED job.
It gets expensive.

Quoted from emsrph:

Was thinking of reducing load and temperature there. Does The Shadow do GI dimming that would be missed in the backbox?