(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

9 years ago


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  • 9,565 posts
  • 683 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 23 hours ago by woody76
  • Topic is favorited by 252 Pinsiders

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There are 9,565 posts in this topic. You are on page 187 of 192.
#9301 4 months ago

Glad this is working well and great picture! I'm one of the lucky ones where my old Shadow switch works ok.

Dan
M&M Creations

#9302 4 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

The MRS is awesome, and is useful in many tricky areas on other pins too. I’ve used them on Ripley’s, Who Dunnit?, EATPM, GB, White Water...

Where do you find them useful in White Water?

#9303 4 months ago
778DBC52-6D8C-45F3-B716-34542397A4D7 (resized).jpeg
#9304 4 months ago
Quoted from JvdS:

Where can I buy them (in Europe)?

Dang.. if I knew someone nearby wanted one too, we could have ordered them together hahah

#9305 4 months ago
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

I think his most recent post was removed (I know I reported it). His name is Alexandre Mendes and his last post (from November) is still there in the Pinball Classified Ads group.
I'm not sure how to link to a Facebook post, but if you search for "shadow translite" you should find it
[quoted image]

Pinsider AlexSMendes

#9306 4 months ago
Quoted from horseflesh:

Where do you find them useful in White Water?

It was a switch in the back left mounted above the ball, I think at the end of Disaster Drop, that was a little sticky on mine. It would register hits usually, but not always. I had the exact same issue on my RBION on the right ramp and went with an MRS there with great results.

#9307 4 months ago

Battlefield questions…

I’m wondering how the battlefield was intended to work. Most of the time on mine I stall the ball then move the flipper again to fire. Half the time I’m worrying about the battlefield timing out though due to the ball sitting on the yellow puncher so I have to hit the flipper to shimmy the ball into tripping the opto and firing. Is this ideal? I cleaned the opto with alcohol etc. still plays like this. Thx.

Last question… far right drop target sometimes stays down for too long and starts clicking to try and get back up (sometimes it makes it in time, others it doesn’t or stays down). Any remedy?

Cheers.

#9308 4 months ago

Thanks, I’ll have to weed through this again. The Dumbass Power Driver board solved all my issues for a year, guess I’m back to the reset problem again.

#9309 4 months ago

Can anyone with a repro PF let me know what they tied into for the headlights? Was thinking GI but it won’t be as interactive…

E508650F-39E6-4788-819A-28EC00602302 (resized).jpeg
#9310 4 months ago
Quoted from DropGems:

Battlefield questions…
I’m wondering how the battlefield was intended to work. Most of the time on mine I stall the ball then move the flipper again to fire. Half the time I’m worrying about the battlefield timing out though due to the ball sitting on the yellow puncher so I have to hit the flipper to shimmy the ball into tripping the opto and firing. Is this ideal? I cleaned the opto with alcohol etc. still plays like this. Thx.
Last question… far right drop target sometimes stays down for too long and starts clicking to try and get back up (sometimes it makes it in time, others it doesn’t or stays down). Any remedy?
Cheers.

There's an opto beam that runs across the min-PF just before the yellow kicker paddle, as the ball breaks the opto beam the kicker is fired. Sounds like you have an issue with the opto and/or the kicker mech. Test the opto in switch test mode and check how smoothly the kicker moves - might be worth replacing the coil sleeve and maybe the coil stop.

In regards to the four drop targets at the back of the min-PF, they can get gummed up - just need to disassemble and clean them up

#9311 4 months ago
Quoted from DropGems:

Battlefield questions…
I’m wondering how the battlefield was intended to work. Most of the time on mine I stall the ball then move the flipper again to fire. Half the time I’m worrying about the battlefield timing out though due to the ball sitting on the yellow puncher so I have to hit the flipper to shimmy the ball into tripping the opto and firing. Is this ideal? I cleaned the opto with alcohol etc. still plays like this. Thx.
Last question… far right drop target sometimes stays down for too long and starts clicking to try and get back up (sometimes it makes it in time, others it doesn’t or stays down). Any remedy?
Cheers.

Are you using pinstadiums? Either way, try buying the opto covers shared earlier on this thread. That has a good chance of solving this issue.

#9312 4 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Are you using pinstadiums? Either way, try buying the opto covers shared earlier on this thread. That has a good chance of solving this issue.

Not using pinstadiums. Okay will look into the opto covers. Thx.

#9313 4 months ago
Quoted from DropGems:

Not using pinstadiums. Okay will look into the opto covers. Thx.

First
Put the machine in switch edge test mode. Pass your finger back and forth through the beam. Make sure it goes off each time.
Second
Check the wires to the optos and opto board. Check for a loose wire or cracked solder at the header pins. Maybe reflow solder on each just to be sure.

I would bet against your issue being one of light interference. i'd bet it's an electrical continuity issue.

#9314 4 months ago
Quoted from DropGems:

Nice. What are incandescent flashers called? Do they have a specific name/number?

ebay.com link: itm

#9315 4 months ago
Quoted from DropGems:

Not using pinstadiums. Okay will look into the opto covers. Thx.

I did a search, these are the ones you want: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1180-slap-save-creations/04937-the-shadow-upper-playfield-opto-covers

I recommend the Yellow.

#9316 4 months ago

I am trying to find some detailed teardown pictures of the mini playfield. I looked at a couple pics online, and here, and don't see anything with good detail. The wiring on this mini is all hacked up and I'd like to get it sorted.

Thanks

#9317 4 months ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

I am trying to find some detailed teardown pictures of the mini playfield. I looked at a couple pics online, and here, and don't see anything with good detail. The wiring on this mini is all hacked up and I'd like to get it sorted.
Thanks

Here are some pictures from a recent rebuild.

20211109_172901 (resized).jpg20211109_194813 (resized).jpg20211109_195130 (resized).jpg20211109_201423 (resized).jpg20211110_223432 (resized).jpg20211111_201502 (resized).jpg20211111_201502 (resized).jpg20211112_194639 (resized).jpg
#9318 4 months ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Here are some pictures from a recent rebuild.

Thanks for these. Trying to get a good look at the wires that go to the right left optos(below the playfield)

#9319 4 months ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

Thanks for these. Trying to get a good look at the wires that go to the right left optos(below the playfield)

Not sure if these are any better.

20220124_185408 (resized).jpg20220124_185455 (resized).jpg20220124_185600 (resized).jpg20220124_185615 (resized).jpg
#9320 4 months ago

Has anyone else seen these knock off art kits? Look to be a copy of Aurichs kit

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#9321 4 months ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Not sure if these are any better.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Beautiful work. Thanks!

#9322 4 months ago
Quoted from Coz:

Has anyone else seen these knock off art kits? Look to be a copy of Aurichs kit
[quoted image]

Yes Aurich posted about it a couple of days ago https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/186#post-6727454

#9323 4 months ago

I haven’t followed the shadow thread, so I wanted to make sure people knew this was a knock off with questionable quality.

#9324 4 months ago
Quoted from Coz:

I haven’t followed the shadow thread, so I wanted to make sure people knew this was a knock off with questionable quality.

Yep all good, certainly worth making sure people are aware of it. Thanks

#9325 4 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Found out this past weekend that was how Eddy designed it to work.

Quoted from Manny65:

I don't believe it is supposed to go into the Khan hole, some people adjust the position of the upper flipper to try to achieve this but it'd also depend on what brand flipper rubber you have

I’ve had my Shadow since new in the box and it came with red flipper rubber. It’s never gone in the Kahn hole by holding up the upper flipper. When Shadow was on test back in the day, they did have different flipper rubbers on the games. Just red and black. From what I remember, none of those test versions went into the hole. I do have a set of powder coated, hammered, stone looking legs, rails, and lockdown bar from Brian Eddy on my game. This was used on the proto test games.

#9326 4 months ago
Quoted from Da_Topper:

I’ve had my Shadow since new in the box and it came with red flipper rubber. It’s never gone in the Kahn hole by holding up the upper flipper. When Shadow was on test back in the day, they did have different flipper rubbers on the games. Just red and black. From what I remember, none of those test versions went into the hole. I do have a set of powder coated, hammered, stone looking legs, rails, and lockdown bar from Brian Eddy on my game. This was used on the proto test games.

Would love to see a picture!

#9327 4 months ago

I have the yellow. Wasn’t happy with them. Like new. $8+shipping.

#9328 4 months ago
Quoted from Coz:

Has anyone else seen these knock off art kits? Look to be a copy of Aurichs kit
[quoted image]

Still too expensive.

#9329 4 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Still too expensive.

I wonder about the Quality. I have the real deal. Was just wondering.

#9330 4 months ago
Quoted from Da_Topper:

I’ve had my Shadow since new in the box

That's awesome, how many plays have you put on it since then?

#9331 4 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

I wonder about the Quality. I have the real deal. Was just wondering.

Theres a guy overseas making a pretty badass real backglass for shadow. Its pretty expensive though, but very very cool.

#9332 3 months ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-nos-sling-plastics

Selling a pair of NOS Shadow sling plastics. $30 shipped and will throw in a pair of Sanctum repair decals. Pictures shown in the market ad.

#9333 3 months ago
Quoted from EStroh:

First
Put the machine in switch edge test mode. Pass your finger back and forth through the beam. Make sure it goes off each time.

Thanks for the advice! When I do this it trips on the sides but in the middle it is spuratic and doesn't always trip.
Tried adjusting the optos and using a glare guard but same results. Not sure where to look now.

#9334 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Resets usually happen when your 5v power dips on your power / driver board. The cause of that is usually a bad capacitor, cracked soder joints or a failing 5v regulator. A lot of things happen during multiball so having a reset happen then is not uncommon if something is beginning to fail. What board is the Dumbass?

There a guy named Victor that goes by the handle DumbAss. He's really helpful with issues on these forums and at some point he started making his own boards. They are excellent, I don't think ive seen a poor review ever.

#9335 3 months ago

That's one good looking mini-playfield.

Quoted from epeabs:

Here are some pictures from a recent rebuild.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#9336 3 months ago
Quoted from mikeflan:

That's one good looking mini-playfield.

You would know first hand Mike. Thanks.

#9337 3 months ago
Quoted from jedimastermatt:

The actuator arm doesn’t engage the switch. I’ve checked it several times and did again after it broke again. The arm hits the actuator slightly but the microswitch doesn’t click until the target falls and hits the part where it bends down.
I tried it with the arm straighter years ago but was having more issues where the “slop” in the lifting arm of the solenoid would occasionally trigger it.
I went ahead and ordered new plunger, coil stop, sleeve, and drop targets and will rebuild the bottom section. I did check the spring tonight (didn’t have much spare time) and it’s not as strong as a flipper spring. With the playfield all the way up it barely has enough force to pull the target down. At halfway up on the arm, it pulls it all the way but not “fast”. With the playfield down it drops without issue but doesn’t seem like it has much force. It definitely seems like the upward motion is the more violent action. It’s enough to wedge the split target over the center guide. When I manually move the coil plunger up, it hits the stop well before the bottom of the target makes contact with the post and is enough to engage the pin to hold it up. I can manually pick the arm up higher and make a bit of contact with the top due to the rotational slop in the hinge and the plunger. I still think that is the likely culprit.
Hopefully the new stop/plunger/sleeve takes care of it.

Want to provide what I hope (knocks on wood) is an epilogue. Got all the parts in and had some time on Saturday to get them installed and have a theory on the cause.

- while waiting for the parts, I thought I would try to use the Plasti-weld product to not only repair one of the broken targets; but, try to see if a small piece of aluminum could be used to reinforce the crack. By the time I had this assembled, the new parts arrived. This test lasted all of the games boot up and first cycle of the drop target before it not only broke the drop target but also knocked the brace off it. In short, not worth trying.

- the new coil sleeve was maybe a millimeter longer than the one in the game. Not much of a difference.

- the coil stops looked almost identical. If I place the on top of each other and have the stops facing each other, I could see or feel a difference.

- the plunger was a fraction longer; but, not really much different. Definitely not like a new flipper rebuild.

- I didn’t order a new linkage arm; but, if the issue is mechanical - it may be this part as the linkage has a bit of oblong wear. This slight rotational motion as it goes up and down is the most extreme of the above mechanical parts I inspected. If I have another issue, I’ll replace this next.

- the bushing appeared to be in good shape.

- what I did find and what I think the cause of the issue was - the sanctum drop target walls that cracked were made out of a much softer and more pliable plastic. When the first one broke, the only place that had any available was from a seller on eBay. The original wall and the two replacements from eBay were all a “milky” red with black paint in the wall bricks. When the second of my replacements cracked, I saw Marcos had the wall in stock and added two from there. The Marcos targets are a deeper red and lack the black paint; but, are much stronger. The three broken targets could easily flex whereas the Marco target is very rigid. It also feels like my other games drop targets.

So far, I’ve played about 35-50 games over the weekend (it’s Shadow, so some of those games were very short) and the new target is holding up well. I did get within 4 shots of completing the Final Battle and this time, they were actually on the main playfield but I couldn’t cradle up fast enough to save it.

I’ll report back if the problem returns.

#9338 3 months ago
Quoted from jedimastermatt:

Want to provide what I hope (knocks on wood) is an epilogue. Got all the parts in and had some time on Saturday to get them installed and have a theory on the cause.
- while waiting for the parts, I thought I would try to use the Plasti-weld product to not only repair one of the broken targets; but, try to see if a small piece of aluminum could be used to reinforce the crack. By the time I had this assembled, the new parts arrived. This test lasted all of the games boot up and first cycle of the drop target before it not only broke the drop target but also knocked the brace off it. In short, not worth trying.
- the new coil sleeve was maybe a millimeter longer than the one in the game. Not much of a difference.
- the coil stops looked almost identical. If I place the on top of each other and have the stops facing each other, I could see or feel a difference.
- the plunger was a fraction longer; but, not really much different. Definitely not like a new flipper rebuild.
- I didn’t order a new linkage arm; but, if the issue is mechanical - it may be this part as the linkage has a bit of oblong wear. This slight rotational motion as it goes up and down is the most extreme of the above mechanical parts I inspected. If I have another issue, I’ll replace this next.
- the bushing appeared to be in good shape.
- what I did find and what I think the cause of the issue was - the sanctum drop target walls that cracked were made out of a much softer and more pliable plastic. When the first one broke, the only place that had any available was from a seller on eBay. The original wall and the two replacements from eBay were all a “milky” red with black paint in the wall bricks. When the second of my replacements cracked, I saw Marcos had the wall in stock and added two from there. The Marcos targets are a deeper red and lack the black paint; but, are much stronger. The three broken targets could easily flex whereas the Marco target is very rigid. It also feels like my other games drop targets.
So far, I’ve played about 35-50 games over the weekend (it’s Shadow, so some of those games were very short) and the new target is holding up well. I did get within 4 shots of completing the Final Battle and this time, they were actually on the main playfield but I couldn’t cradle up fast enough to save it.
I’ll report back if the problem returns.

Thanks for reporting back - certainly interesting about the material used for the target and I hope you've solved this one.

The linkage arm is one thing that does wear on the wall target mech and can be the cause of various issues with the mech and gameplay behaviour. Given you've more or less rebuilt the entire mech, if the target problem reappeared it'd be worth replacing the linkage arm and it'd avoid other known issues occurring as well.

#9339 3 months ago

Excited to have officially joined the club! Looking forward to tearing into this one.

66508300886__57037641-3A8D-4E6E-8F9D-20A78F70FD3D (resized).jpeg
#9340 3 months ago

Welcome to the club!

#9341 3 months ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Excited to have officially joined the club! Looking forward to tearing into this one.
[quoted image]

There's really nothing like it in pinball (IMO). Welcome to the club!

#9342 3 months ago

Best Pin to walk the Earth.

#9343 3 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

Best Pin to walk the Earth.

Wait, they can walk?? I’ve been moving them entirely the wrong way…crap.

Playing my buddy’s TS tonight for the first time in years. He had it down to replace plastics with a NOS set & then didn’t get it back together for a while. Should be fun to unlock some old memories.

#9344 3 months ago

Excellent! It will be a keeper!

Quoted from radial_head:

Excited to have officially joined the club! Looking forward to tearing into this one.
[quoted image]

#9345 3 months ago

MRS switch from Sonic is awesome bang for your buck on this game. Removes the old 3D printed switch extension from middle of playfield. MRS looks discreet and triggers every time. No more ball hangups. Blends in with my black wire forms.

3B4D0C32-56EF-415A-BB7C-027C1006693A (resized).jpeg3D13BC0C-A756-4878-9D49-2F63D801D2A9 (resized).jpeg598D1943-60CD-4198-A15B-D19D28AC1A67 (resized).jpeg
#9346 3 months ago

Finished my shadow refresh. Aurich translite, colordmd, and black powdercoat.

91DEDA51-9FE4-43E2-B2F6-1BC615250942 (resized).jpegAF8B0649-DC77-4DEA-8900-5FE3234B5866 (resized).jpeg
#9347 3 months ago
Quoted from cconway84:

MRS switch from Sonic is awesome bang for your buck on this game. Removes the old 3D printed switch extension from middle of playfield. MRS looks discreet and triggers every time. No more ball hangups. Blends in with my black wire forms.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks fantastic! I wish my Shadow looked that good!

Matt
M&M Creations

#9348 3 months ago

So answer me this. How does adding powder coat to wire forms not slow the ball down? Is the surface really just as smooth as a polished form? I wonder...

#9349 3 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

So answer me this. How does adding powder coat to wire forms not slow the ball down? Is the surface really just as smooth as a polished form? I wonder...

I’ve done this with multiple games and haven’t noticed a difference playing before and after. It is really smooth. Only issue is sometimes a small screw or bolt hole won’t get blocked off and gets powdercoat material in it. Then I have to drill it out and use a nut to let the bolt fit through again.

#9350 3 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

So answer me this. How does adding powder coat to wire forms not slow the ball down? Is the surface really just as smooth as a polished form? I wonder...

The powder-coating on mine don't seem to slow the ball at all. Really smooth.

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