(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

9 years ago


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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by woody76
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There are 9,565 posts in this topic. You are on page 186 of 192.
#9251 4 months ago

I’m not sure about the spring. It’s the one that was on the game when I got it but I could try one with less tension.

I think it’s cracking from the upward motion and hitting the center post; but, it is possible.

I’ll see if I’ve got a different spring around I can try.

#9252 4 months ago

Mine has done the same thing. I've gone through 2 wall targets so far. I was thinking about trying to make a thin aluminum sleeve for the bottom to stop it from further breakage, but I haven't gotten around to it.

#9253 4 months ago
Quoted from jedimastermatt:

I’m not sure about the spring. It’s the one that was on the game when I got it but I could try one with less tension.
I think it’s cracking from the upward motion and hitting the center post; but, it is possible.
I’ll see if I’ve got a different spring around I can try.

Interested to see the coil stop as it is specific to this mech - I was initially wondering if it'd been previously replaced with the wrong coil stop that was shorter (ie giving the plunger more travel which is causing the lever to crush the bottom of the target) however in looking at Marco's pic of the coil stop https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18746 it's very short to start off with. That said the coil stop could simply be worn down which would equally give the plunger extended travel.

Definitely interested to see what you discover

#9254 4 months ago
Quoted from jedimastermatt:

Thanks. The pic below is bad as the game is now in our new game room and the lights are all in yet so it’s just the flash on the camera. The target is getting stuck by splitting in two over the guide that’s under the e-clip and brass washer. I forgot about Vid’s guide and pics; but; it is what used to get it working when I first got thrachine years ago. The only thing that jumps out at me is my e-clip is much bigger than the one in the guides pics. My switch channel is a little crooked but it’s not getting stuck on it. It’s the actual channel guide. I did run out to the game after posting and took the pic and also confirmed the coil is the right one.
The switch actuator looks like it’s making contact but it actually doesn’t activate the switch until it is all the way down.
[quoted image]

In looking at your pic again I noticed that the switch actuator arm is touching the plunger lever (see the circled area) - you definitely don't want the switch being triggered by the lever. As after pushing the target up, the coil will be de-energised causing the lever to fall, if this triggers the switch the game could think that the target hasn't been held up and will reactivate the coil again, causing the lever to slam into the bottom of the already raised target - maybe this is what is causing the bottom of the target crack?? Anyway just a thought

TS Extended Target 2 (resized).JPG

#9255 4 months ago

The actuator arm doesn’t engage the switch. I’ve checked it several times and did again after it broke again. The arm hits the actuator slightly but the microswitch doesn’t click until the target falls and hits the part where it bends down.

I tried it with the arm straighter years ago but was having more issues where the “slop” in the lifting arm of the solenoid would occasionally trigger it.

I went ahead and ordered new plunger, coil stop, sleeve, and drop targets and will rebuild the bottom section. I did check the spring tonight (didn’t have much spare time) and it’s not as strong as a flipper spring. With the playfield all the way up it barely has enough force to pull the target down. At halfway up on the arm, it pulls it all the way but not “fast”. With the playfield down it drops without issue but doesn’t seem like it has much force. It definitely seems like the upward motion is the more violent action. It’s enough to wedge the split target over the center guide. When I manually move the coil plunger up, it hits the stop well before the bottom of the target makes contact with the post and is enough to engage the pin to hold it up. I can manually pick the arm up higher and make a bit of contact with the top due to the rotational slop in the hinge and the plunger. I still think that is the likely culprit.

Hopefully the new stop/plunger/sleeve takes care of it.

#9256 4 months ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

I sold a super nice Shadow pretty cheap ($2500) two years ago and didn't think i'd be able to find another one in similar shape. Thankfully a friend found one for me and we made a trade. Missed the game a bunch, shouldnt have ever let go of it.

And back in the club again. Don't know that its a keeper this time around as it's in my rotating spot, but happy to learn what evil lurks in the hearts of men once again.

Any mods or changes in the last 7 years I should know about?

#9257 4 months ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

And back in the club again. Don't know that its a keeper this time around as it's in my rotating spot, but happy to learn what evil lurks in the hearts of men once again.
Any mods or changes in the last 7 years I should know about?

Just the MRS that replaces the standard switch on the left ramp so you get consistent hits You can buy one from Sonic

#9258 4 months ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

Any mods or changes in the last 7 years I should know about?

Welcome back! If your game does not have a magnetic reed switch on the left diverter's right side, that's a great functional upgrade. (Like CashMoney said, contact Sonic.)

I don't know how long they have been available but PBL has reinforced diverter crank arms: https://www.pinballlife.com/the-shadow-crank-arm-assembly.html

This thread recently discussed if you're supposed to hit the Khan saucer if you let the ball bounce off a raised UR flipper... someone's trying to contact the designer for a final verdict. That will be interesting either way.

#9259 4 months ago

Cool door decal! PinballDecals.com.

8E23B487-7063-4DEA-90C0-725BC6F1429D (resized).jpeg
#9260 4 months ago

New to the club. Stripped down and powder coating all metal black.

52F2F31C-1EE2-4D36-BBEE-4FF7D583BE5F (resized).jpegD90B3269-B051-4593-BA93-4921D8256AF2 (resized).jpegDE60A56A-973C-4463-9625-3E861C4945F2 (resized).jpeg
#9261 4 months ago
Quoted from cconway84:

New to the club. Stripped down and powder coating all metal black.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

How much time does it take to strip all the metal off? I was thinking about powder coating mine. What color are you going with?

#9262 4 months ago
Quoted from SNES:

How much time does it take to strip all the metal off? I was thinking about powder coating mine. What color are you going with?

Maybe an hour? I have game set up on a spare set of legs already. Pulled side rails using a 3” putty knife like in photo.Photo shows a MMr I did without marring the cabinet side and without destroying the rail. Don’t need heat to do it. Trick is to push up from directly below rail to break the double sided tape and don’t try to pry the rail out as you go (that would destroy the rails). Just hold handle out far enough to keep it off cabinet decal. I can reuse rails this way. Use a drill and wire wheel to take excess residue off inside of rail. Remove beer seal from lockdown bar. Removed all ramps and pulled switches and wire from them as I go. Removed backboard hinges and apron ball guard.

I left the gun plunger as it was previously powder coated. Also left the coin door as it was in great shape but I usually disassemble this completely removing coin chutes and harness and have it done.

I’m leaving the ball guides and phurba ramps too.

Rails will be reinstalled with 3m 15lb double sided tape from Home Depot. New beer seal on lockdown bar aka weatherstripping from HD also.

Going gloss black on everything. I’ll post pics after I get it all back together.

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#9263 4 months ago
Quoted from cconway84:

Maybe an hour? I have game set up on a spare set of legs already. Pulled side rails using a 3” putty knife like in photo.Photo shows a MMr I did without marring the cabinet side and without destroying the rail. Don’t need heat to do it. Trick is to push up from directly below rail to break the double sided tape and don’t try to pry the rail out as you go (that would destroy the rails). Just hold handle out far enough to keep it off cabinet decal. I can reuse rails this way. Use a drill and wire wheel to take excess residue off inside of rail. Remove beer seal from lockdown bar. Removed all ramps and pulled switches and wire from them as I go. Removed backboard hinges and apron ball guard.
I left the gun plunger as it was previously powder coated. Also left the coin door as it was in great shape but I usually disassemble this completely removing coin chutes and harness and have it done.
I’m leaving the ball guides and phurba ramps too.
Rails will be reinstalled with 3m 15lb double sided tape from Home Depot. New beer seal on lockdown bar aka weatherstripping from HD also.
Going gloss black on everything. I’ll post pics after I get it all back together.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for all the details! I keep thinking about doing mine, but then I will probably get new decals, and new legs, and color DMD, and… haha

#9269 4 months ago

Does anyone have an extra set of Aurichs' alternate translite and speaker panel?

#9273 4 months ago

But why !!

Quoted from cconway84:

New to the club. Stripped down and powder coating all metal black.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#9274 4 months ago

I have the standard looking lighting on shadow with leds though and I tried purple flasher domes but they don’t work with my current lighting. It throws off the color. I tried the clear incandescents and they were like pink/white and the led flashers I tried were just way to bright. Does anyone have anything they recommend that compliments the original look or should I just ditch the purple flashes and go back to orange? Thx.

#9275 4 months ago
Quoted from DropGems:

I have the standard looking lighting on shadow with leds though and I tried purple flasher domes but they don’t work with my current lighting. It throws off the color. I tried the clear incandescents and they were like pink/white and the led flashers I tried were just way to bright. Does anyone have anything they recommend that compliments the original look or should I just ditch the purple flashes and go back to orange? Thx.

Comet has retro flashers that aren’t as bright. I haven’t used them though.

#9276 4 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Comet has retro flashers that aren’t as bright. I haven’t used them though.

Okay thx will look into them. I think I’m wondering what color too though for the purple domes, maybe a true purple if that exists? I just want it to match the vibe of the original game lighting if that’s possible.

#9277 4 months ago
Quoted from DropGems:

Okay thx will look into them. I think I’m wondering what color too though for the purple domes, maybe a true purple if that exists? I just want it to match the vibe of the original game lighting if that’s possible.

Original game lighting would be orange domes with clear incandescent flashers.

If you want to keep that I say orange domes with warm white retro flashers.

#9278 4 months ago

Flat 8 SMD Purple LED in a Purple cap looks great by me.

#9279 4 months ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Flat 8 SMD Purple LED in a Purple cap looks great by me.

I agree - I think using the orange in the first place was a mistake. Bally made a few on this game, just look at the backglass.

#9280 4 months ago

Decisions… decisions… purple… orange….
Ahhhhhhh Khannnnnnn!!!

#9281 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I agree - I think using the orange in the first place was a mistake. Bally made a few on this game, just look at the backglass.

I’m pro purple. And used to not like the orange, but have changed my mind now that I think I understand it… I believe the orange was used to bath the playfield in a warm white light in the Art Deco/1930s style.

10
#9282 4 months ago

I don't use Facebook, but a friend sent me a screenshot of someone from Brazil selling bootlegs of my Shadow package. I'm not particularly worried about it personally, but just a heads up that I doubt the quality is that great so might want to be aware that they exist. Not likely to be using the expensive printing process I do for one, but probably made out of a scan or low rez digital version for another.

You can spot the bootleg because they kindly erased my signature from the lower left, which I do actually appreciate, I don't want my name on your half assed product.

#9283 4 months ago
Quoted from Aurich:

I don't use Facebook, but a friend sent me a screenshot of someone from Brazil selling bootlegs of my Shadow package. I'm not particularly worried about it personally, but just a heads up that I doubt the quality is that great so might want to be aware that they exist. Not likely to be using the expensive printing process I do for one, but probably made out of a scan or low rez digital version for another.
You can spot the bootleg because they kindly erased my signature from the lower left, which I do actually appreciate, I don't want my name on your half assed product.

I wouldn't worry about it either. For one, those in the hobby know the "Aurich" package, and for two, I'm sure shipping kills any cost difference for the the buyer. Even for newbies, the alt art package really doesn't show up without your name attached to it, so I'm sure it would be an easy link.

Really shitty to know that your work was ripped off though. I'd be upset about it.

#9284 4 months ago
Quoted from Aurich:

I don't use Facebook, but a friend sent me a screenshot of someone from Brazil selling bootlegs of my Shadow package. I'm not particularly worried about it personally, but just a heads up that I doubt the quality is that great so might want to be aware that they exist. Not likely to be using the expensive printing process I do for one, but probably made out of a scan or low rez digital version for another.
You can spot the bootleg because they kindly erased my signature from the lower left, which I do actually appreciate, I don't want my name on your half assed product.

Aurich I've seen the post and sent him a message asking if he was just selling one (which would be fine - if he was reselling one he bought from you) or many (which would not be fine)- he ignored me. I'll be sure to post a warning on any of these ads I see on Facebook - I guess until he blocks me.

#9285 4 months ago

Anyone have a link so I can report them too?

#9286 4 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Anyone have a link so I can report them too?

I think his most recent post was removed (I know I reported it). His name is Alexandre Mendes and his last post (from November) is still there in the Pinball Classified Ads group.

I'm not sure how to link to a Facebook post, but if you search for "shadow translite" you should find it

Screen Shot 2022-01-20 at 1.09.41 PM (resized).png
#9287 4 months ago
Quoted from DropGems:

Okay thx will look into them. I think I’m wondering what color too though for the purple domes, maybe a true purple if that exists? I just want it to match the vibe of the original game lighting if that’s possible.

I bought purple incandescent flashers off ebay.

#9288 4 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I bought purple incandescent flashers off ebay.

Nice. What are incandescent flashers called? Do they have a specific name/number?

#9289 4 months ago
Quoted from DropGems:

Nice. What are incandescent flashers called? Do they have a specific name/number?

#96 bulbs I believe.

#9291 4 months ago

Hi, I've got an unusual problem. The game resets during khan multiball, but after no other times. I'm running a Dumbass board and this is a recent issue (Dumbass board has been fine for 6+months). Any thoughts on where I would start to trouble? I really don't understand what's triggering it.

#9292 4 months ago
Quoted from KrazyIvan14:

Hi, I've got an unusual problem. The game resets during khan multiball, but after no other times. I'm running a Dumbass board and this is a recent issue (Dumbass board has been fine for 6+months). Any thoughts on where I would start to trouble? I really don't understand what's triggering it.

Resets usually happen when your 5v power dips on your power / driver board. The cause of that is usually a bad capacitor, cracked soder joints or a failing 5v regulator. A lot of things happen during multiball so having a reset happen then is not uncommon if something is beginning to fail. What board is the Dumbass?

#9293 4 months ago
Quoted from KrazyIvan14:

Any thoughts on where I would start to trouble?

Look at section 6.17 on the WPC Pinwiki.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC

#9294 4 months ago

So much nicer replacing the random bracket and ugly exposed switch with the MRS.

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#9295 4 months ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

So much nicer replacing the random bracket and ugly exposed switch with the MRS.
[quoted image][quoted image]

The MRS is awesome, and is useful in many tricky areas on other pins too. I’ve used them on Ripley’s, Who Dunnit?, EATPM, GB, White Water, and The Shadow.

#9296 4 months ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

So much nicer replacing the random bracket and ugly exposed switch with the MRS.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks fantastic! Great pics!

Matt
M&M Creations

#9297 4 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

The MRS is awesome, and is useful in many tricky areas on other pins too. I’ve used them on Ripley’s, Who Dunnit?, EATPM, GB, White Water, and The Shadow.

Thanks for the kind words as always!

Matt
M&M Creations

#9298 4 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

The MRS is awesome, and is useful in many tricky areas on other pins too. I’ve used them on Ripley’s, Who Dunnit?, EATPM, GB, White Water, and The Shadow.

Where can I buy them (in Europe)?

#9299 4 months ago
Quoted from JvdS:

Where can I buy them (in Europe)?

Check with Matt at M & M Creations (“Sonic” on Pinside).

#9300 4 months ago
Quoted from JvdS:

Where can I buy them (in Europe)?

We don't have a distributer in Europe so just PM me to order....we ship to Europe!

Matt
M&M Creations

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