An Elwin is definitely what you’re looking for in terms of variety.

Found out this past weekend that was how Eddy designed it to work.

Ya, thats how mine works. Shoot the left orbit, hold the flipper. Almost guaranteed into the hole.

ITS IN THE HOLE.

You're so lucky that you are such an awesome player, I have had my shadow for over 16 years, got to final battle a few times, completed it once (that was a good day) this game never gets old, if you're rubbish

I think that may be part of why the modes are getting old. @chuckwurt's comment aside, I was under the impression that it wasn't intended to be this way. I'm lucky if I get to 2 or 3 modes a game. Having said that I still haven't beaten the final battle after all these years. It sounds like you've had yours for some time too. This challenge is what keeps me coming back for more. Yeah, if I was getting to 5-6 modes reliably most games, I could see this game losing lasting appeal.

I feel like once I have owned a game long enough and I figure out the “cheats” and easy shots, it becomes boring. Its not that I am such a great player, its just that I have owned this game long enough to exploit its weaknesses.

I should set my streaming gear up and have a go at final battle over xmas break. Maybe that will help me sell it too. People like to see games working before they buy them.

My biggest problem is keeping the khan mb from lighting so I can use that hole for the scene starts.

That side saucer is lit for khan more than it is modes so even if your game can do the upper flipper trick, you’re not starting modes as easily as you’d think. And more cracks at Kahn is great because it’s so hard to get the SJP. I like to have 2-3 Kahns per game to increase my chances.

I changed my settings to not carry over the 'lit' Khan multiball from ball to ball. I think this works better. Otherwise the multiball is lit throughout most of the game.

Yup, there are plenty of things you can do to make the game more challenging (moving outlane posts up, removing outlane rubbers, thicker post rubbers, tighter tilt, steeper incline, adjusting Kahn so it’s not easy to hit)

From a tournament strategy standpoint I love this game, same with TWD. So many ways to approach it and I set my games up to be very challenging.

But I could see how if you chose to keep the game setup on “easy” and if it was part of a small lineup, it could get old after a bit.

Hey guys,

I had a weird problem come up on my Shadow. I had a party on Saturday and the game was on all day/evening and now it isn’t acting right. The DMD was starting to mess up (6 or so vertical lines going through it) so I thought maybe it was starting to fail. Made half a joke about now I get to upgrade to color! Anyway, as the night progressed the DMD went completely out with the exception of a few small dots on the bottom. I started a game and there was no sound. I power cycled with no difference. Turned it off for the night and tried again the next morning. I played two balls and it worked great! Tried it again today and back to the three dots on the DMD and no sound. Any suggestions on where to start? I’m at a loss. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thank you!

Try reseating your ribbon cables first.

Man, so easy. I thought to reseat the cables when I saw the vertical lines but when the sound when out my mind went to something overheated and went very bad. Seems to be working great now but I will let it run for a while to make sure all is well. Thank you so much for the suggestion!

No prob! That’s happened to me on a couple 90’s pins, with the lines thru the DMD, and my friend suggested checking the ribbons. I hope that’s it!

Got my switch from Sonic and just installed it. Easy installation with a guide included. Works like a charm and it is barely visible Thanks again Sonic

Still the favorite of all of my games!!

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Do you have a link for this switch? It looks very clean. I moved over the cherry style and mounted it in the same position. Your setup looks much better.

Send a PM to Sonic !

Sound and DMD data both share the same common data lines, which is why reseating this ribbon cable works, when is not a part related issue.2019-02-02 14_20_45-WPC ribbon cable to reseat - Paint (resized).png

Looks great and thanks for the kind words!

Matt
M&M Creations

Does anyone have a pic of the sanctuary drop target mech mine doesn't look right or work right , especially where the target down switch is located and actuated. thanks

Does this help?

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Has anyone chromed their wire forms instead of the brass or black nickel? If so any pics on the game?

I didn't chrome them but polished them up really good as to all the brass is gone. Think it look really good if you also make the ramps shine.

Chroming them will even be better probably but i just got fanatical on them. There's a thin brass plating. with chrome underneath.

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I got my LEDOCD and GIOCD today. just installed the LEDOCD and must say it looks amazing right out of the box. Does anyone use any special settings for the shadow with these boards ? Thanks.

I strongly recommend sticking with the brass. It works well with the art deco theme, and is one of the many unique characteristics of this pin. Why remove that?

Upgraded 5.25” speakers and lights.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wpc-speakers-amp-panel-upgrade-to-le-stern-style-w-lights

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Hi Guys,
I have a Shadow to restore. Almost all is working but the left ring of my Shadow has no bulb AND no wires (probably someone did not replace the bulb in the ring and cut off the wires...).
Can anyone help me what wires (colours) I need are better send me a picture from below and under playfield with the wiring?
I will be thankful for ever!
Js

I just completed and reassembled a topside tear down and shop over the last day and now I have the entire of a column out. I can’t for the life of me find a missing/loose connector or broken wire. I have all of column 1 out and can’t find the cause at the moment. Annoying

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Is the col 1 issue on the lamps or switches?

If the lamps, use a DMM to check continuity from the J137-1 through the yellow-brown string of lamps. If you have continuity, then test that the board is working properly - Pinwiki describes how to test the lamp matrix https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Controlled_Lamp_Operational_Description

If the switches, J207-1 is to the col 1 switches on the PF, while J212-1 is to the col 1 switches in the cabinet (gun trigger, start button and plumb bob). If none of col 1 switches are working I'd suspect the CPU board.

Posted my Shadow for sale on the Canadian site Pinball Revolution if anyone is looking for a nice example. Fully loaded with COLORDMD, Laseriffic topper, Pinstadium lighting, LEDs, Flipper Fidelity speakers, powdercoated ramps and gun (with wood gun handle), etc. Enjoyed the game but time to move on to something else. Thank you.

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None of the column 1 switches for me are working. J207 connector is seated. I guess I’m on a continuity trace to see if there’s a break.

Update: I have continuity between all the common wires on the switches in the column so it’s not that.
Continuity from cabinet switches to j212-1 and continuity from playfield switches to j207-1.

It’s possible that a controlled lamp plug for the right ring lights was hooked into the switch matrix as the hacks on my machine have mis coloured and mismatched plug connectors for that section. Not sure though as all the other switches are registering correctly and I would have expected this to take out a different column.

Column 1 switches are split into 2 wire looms connecting to the CPU board as some of the switches are located in the cabinet while others are on the PF - cabinet (J212) and PF (J207). If none of your column 1 switches are working (eg the start button isn't registering) then the issue is on the CPU board. If you have a logic probe check that column 1 (either J207-1 or J212-1) is pulsing high.

If however the start button, trigger and plumb bob (ie the cabinet column 1 switches) work, then the issue is only with the PF switches on column 1 and J207-1 and the green-brown wire is where you need to investigate.

Swapped out the IC for the matrix and it’s all good. Shorted it with an incorrect plug from the lamp circuit due to the controlled lamps hacks.

So who is working on THE SHADOW RETURNS software?

Funhouse gets a new update, but not Shadow?

I would most definitely buy a kit. Make it happen people!

Yes thank you. My switch lever is bent in a 1/2 circle, when the target is up the switch was still being activated by the lever that pushes it back up. I replaced the lever with a straight one and it's all better now thanks

hello guys, I often have problems with the ball launch (kicker bracket assembly) , the ball don't arrive to the top of the launch ramp, only sometimes and hardly it comes to play. I tried many fix, new solenoid, new solder joints, adjusting the bracket, new plunger and new spring, but nothing works... since I'm sick of this, I wanted to install a slightly stronger coil.. can you suggest one to replace the factory AE 23-800?

Finally got my game finished, after a long shopjob. I'm missing this 02-5142 thumbscrew on my battlefield. Nowhere to be found on the internet. Does anyone have a spare? I guess i could use an alan screw for the time being but the thing is i can only buy metric screws over here and don't want to destroy the thread. Don't know what imperial thread is used on this screw. Can you guys help me out so i can order something that's appropriate ? Thanks !

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check with brewninja he did make these for sale but now the link shows not available but maybe he can make you one

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1180-slap-save-creations/05008-the-shadow-upper-playfield-thumbscrew-02-5142

What’s up guys… new shadow owner here and pretty much a total noob at pinball repairs. I’m having issues with the left diverter, diverters work but position is like almost in the middle on the one side. It’s super annoying as I get a lot of rejects. Is this easy to fix? Thx!

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Lift up the playfield and look at the underside of the diverter mechanism. There are two set screws that hold the shaft for the diverter. Loosen them (its usually a tight fit for the allen wrench). Once loose, push the top side of the diverter to a ramp side. Make sure that the underside of the diverter is in the proper position for the back and forth movement.

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Thx man. Will give this a shot. sounds fairly easy!

Check for a broken or missing spring before adjusting diverter.

You may need to replace the crank arm assembly. When I got my Shadow, no matter how tight I got the set screws, they would eventually let loose again. Replacing this solved it for me. Solid for years now.

https://www.pinballlife.com/the-shadow-crank-arm-assembly.html

Can someone please post a photo of the screw used on the right ramp assembly to hold the switches and plastic on?

My machine was missing the right ramp clear plastic and the existing screws I have are too short to grab when placing in the clear. Did anyone else need to swap screws when using a cpr plastic set for this?

The Parts List lists a hex head screw for the large (aka right) ramp which is wrong.

The opto brackets take a SMS #6 screw 4106-01013-XX and my right ramp has 4106-01013-08 "sms #6 x 1/2 p-ph t-25" screws to accommodate the clear plastic (my plastic is from a Starship Fantasy made plastic set)

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Many thanks Manny. the screws I have are too short to hold with the thicker plastic

Anyone need one of these...its for the upper playfield plunger...as I recall it's a little beefier than the original ( came from overseas as I recall). 40.00 shipped contentenial US...shoot me a pm. this is new never used

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Edit -spoken for...

After a LONG shopjob, it was in a terrible condition when i bought it. My shadow is finally playable. It's a great players game for sure! I also got a theatre of magic and like it but somehow this game just keeps me away from controlling balls and has a lot of flow...
Still got some wishes like maybe do a matte black powder on the harnas, did anyone do that and has some pictures?
Really pleased with the way it turned out.

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Looks good, do you before and after pics?

Is it true that when you orbit and hold the 3rd flipper, the ball is supposed to go into the mode start saucer? Mine totally doesn’t do this. Is it supposed to and if so, how do you adjust? Thx!