Shadow, The
Bally, 1994Quoted from Sonic:Always glad to help! Pics are fantastic!
Matt
M&M Creations
"we don't touch your balls...."
Our restored Shadow has been in the extra ball lounge at Pintastic for a full day so far. Matt's MRS switch has worked flawless and the machine has had a ton of play. Thanks Matt, this setup works phenomenal.
On my shadow, the right eject seems too powerful and after being ejected the ball bounces off the orbit wall back into the hole…like more than 50% of the time. Sometime it ejects 4 or 5 times before it successfully stays out!
I thought maybe the wrong coil was in there but it appears 27-1200 is correct in the manual.
Does anyone have a similar experience or fix for this?
Quoted from Riefepeters:On my shadow, the right eject seems too powerful and after being ejected the ball bounces off the orbit wall back into the hole…like more than 50% of the time. Sometime it ejects 4 or 5 times before it successfully stays out!
I thought maybe the wrong coil was in there but it appears 27-1200 is correct in the manual.
Does anyone have a similar experience or fix for this?
I had the same problem on my Getaway. My simple fix: I put a foam "pad" under the playfield where the coil linkage would otherwise raise to almost touch the bottom of the playfield. This has the effect of minimizing the amount of travel of the linkage and armature, and reduces the power of the "kick" out of the hole.
Not perfect... or pretty... but it went from 10% working to 100% working.
Quoted from Riefepeters:On my shadow, the right eject seems too powerful and after being ejected the ball bounces off the orbit wall back into the hole…like more than 50% of the time. Sometime it ejects 4 or 5 times before it successfully stays out!
I thought maybe the wrong coil was in there but it appears 27-1200 is correct in the manual.
Does anyone have a similar experience or fix for this?
I know it seems trivial but one or two turns on the back leg up or down makes a huge difference.
Anybody know where to buy ramp flaps for the two Shadow ramps? I believe Pinbits used to sell these but they are MIA now. Mantis only seems to make entire replacement ramps. My ramps look pretty good but the flaps could use replacement.
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:Anybody know where to buy ramp flaps for the two Shadow ramps?
PinballSpareParts.com.au
Shipping to U.S. is via airmail and is around $20, but they have a wide array of flaps.
Quoted from jonesjb:I'm having a problem with my Shadow, it won't turn on. I'm hoping someone may be able to help me fix this issue. For reference, it started with a Distorted Color DMD and when I tried reseating the cables, a fuse blew. I replaced the fuse, but to no avail. Here's what happened...
My DMD was glitching like this: [quoted image]
I then saw on another thread that reseating these four spots might fix the issue. I did this: [quoted image]
When I turned the pin back on Fuse 112 on the WPC Power Driver Assembly (7A Slow Burn) popped. I then replaced it and tried turning back on. It stayed off.
[quoted image]
But right now, I'd like to at least get my Shadow to turn on. Is there anywhere in particular I should start, I'm at a bit of a loss. If anyone could help, I'd be very grateful.
Reporting back for anyone who may have a similar issue. So here's what happened (and how it was finally fixed):
-The original problem was a faulty DMD board, sending glitched signals to the DMD (The DMD was fine as per the settings mode which worked fine when activated).
-I didn't know this and reseated the cables. One cable I indeed missed the row incorrectly (the left most one to the Fliptronic board). This ended up frying the bridge rectifier.
-Re-soldering the bridge rectifier fixed it!
Quoted from RobDutch:After 9 years of owning the game, I finally got sick of the ball jumping over the left ramp switch
Ordered a MRS switch from Sonic yesterday, will leave a review ones installed.
Final testing and packaging as we speak!
Matt
M&M Creations
"we don't touch your balls..."
Quoted from RobDutch:After 9 years of owning the game, I finally got sick of the ball jumping over the left ramp switch
Ordered a MRS switch from Sonic yesterday, will leave a review ones installed.
SUPER VENGEANCE will soon be yours.
Can someone post a picture of the soundboard. Want to make sure I have the sub and front speakers plugged in correctly.
Does anyone know what board the left diverter button connects to? Seems to be powering up but the button seems to have stopped causing it to move. Must have unplugged something by accident. Thanks for the help!
Quoted from pinballjah:Does anyone know what board the left diverter button connects to? Seems to be powering up but the button seems to have stopped causing it to move. Must have unplugged something by accident. Thanks for the help!
The diverter buttons are switch matrix switches - the left diverter switch is #34. Go into switch test mode to confirm the switch is working. To test the diverter go into solenoid test mode - go to 03 & 04 to move the diverter left & right respectively
Quoted from pinballjah:Can someone post a picture of the soundboard. Want to make sure I have the sub and front speakers plugged in correctly.
Mine is set up the same as the manual, with connections going to pins 1 (black-yellow) & 4 (black) of the respective connectors.
TS Speaker Connections (resized).JPGQuoted from twinmice:Has anyone put new cab decals on their Shadow? If so, who's did you use? Thanks
I just did a Shadow with new decals. I used pinballdecals.eu
I'm now redoing my Shadow and have a set of their decals for mine as well. They go on nicely and look great.
20211105_140603 (resized).jpgQuoted from Manny65:The diverter buttons are switch matrix switches - the left diverter switch is #34. Go into switch test mode to confirm the switch is working. To test the diverter go into solenoid test mode - go to 03 & 04 to move the diverter left & right respectively
Thanks for the post. Turns out it was something simple, wire came loose. All good now.
B0DC16B6-B08B-4EAA-A23D-7B69D4AEC2F6 (resized).jpegSwitch 32 isnt registering, replaced the opto and the issue still persists. I am brain dead tonight, anyone have a next step I can follow?
Edit: nevermind I am an idiot and soldered the new opto backwards on the receiver. Bye!
Quoted from epeabs:I just did a Shadow with new decals.
That looks fantastic. Nothing like the crisp look of a cabinet with all new decals. I replaced the decals on the head of my Shadow, which were pretty rough. But the cabinet is in pretty good shape. I’ve yet to apply full cab decals. I’ve done Radcals on 2 pins and I’m on my third now.
Quoted from epeabs:I just did a Shadow with new decals. I used pinballdecals.eu
I'm now redoing my Shadow and have a set of their decals for mine as well. They go on nicely and look great.
[quoted image]
Did you use their method on the video they have posted on their site? What was the best way to trim off the excess?
Quoted from epeabs:I just did a Shadow with new decals. I used pinballdecals.eu
I'm now redoing my Shadow and have a set of their decals for mine as well. They go on nicely and look great.
[quoted image]
Looks great btw!
Quoted from Flash71:Did you use their method on the video they have posted on their site? What was the best way to trim off the excess?
Thank you. I used a similar approach with using a microfiber rag to smooth out the decals. As far as trimming the edges, I like to use a block of wood with sandpaper and sand the edges at a 45 degree angle. The HEP method.
Quoted from epeabs:Thank you. I used a similar approach with using a microfiber rag to smooth out the decals. As far as trimming the edges, I like to use a block of wood with sandpaper and sand the edges at a 45 degree angle. The HEP method.
Right on! I have a set of the decals for mine but a bit apprehensive. Did you do any cabinet prep or remove any of the old decal first ?
Cabinet prep is essential to having your decals look great. In fact I'd say that you will spend 95% of your time prepping for the decal installation as opposed to actually installing them. Any imperfections will show through, since the decals are just a thin skin over the wood.
I've got my Shadow cab completely stripped right now and have gone through two iterations of fiberglass bondo / sand, rinse and repeat. I'll follow with a finer grained filler to smooth things out and get rid of pinholes. Next will be a high fill primer and guide coat, sanded as flat as possible. I'm going to paint everything with black auto paint and then apply a semi-gloss 2 part auto clear. That will end up ready for the decals. I'll probably have at least 40 hours invested in prep before I unroll the decals.
Can you skip the above? Sure. But I'd probably just leave the beat up original decals instead.
I highly suggest watching some of Chris Hutchins' awesome videos from his YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/highendpins/videos
Some pics of my cabinet awaiting the next round of sanding:
IMG_0709 (resized).jpegIMG_0710 (resized).jpegQuoted from TinyBlackDog:Cabinet prep is essential to having your decals look great. In fact I'd say that you will spend 95% of your time prepping for the decal installation as opposed to actually installing them. Any imperfections will show through, since the decals are just a thin skin over the wood.
I've got my Shadow cab completely stripped right now and have gone through two iterations of fiberglass bondo / sand, rinse and repeat. I'll follow with a finer grained filler to smooth things out and get rid of pinholes. Next will be a high fill primer and guide coat, sanded as flat as possible. I'm going to paint everything with black auto paint and then apply a semi-gloss 2 part auto clear. That will end up ready for the decals. I'll probably have at least 40 hours invested in prep before I unroll the decals.
Can you skip the above? Sure. But I'd probably just leave the beat up original decals instead.
I highly suggest watching some of Chris Hutchins' awesome videos from his YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/highendpins/videos
Some pics of my cabinet awaiting the next round of sanding:[quoted image][quoted image]
I’m all in favor of doing all the prep work you mentioned but why spend the time clear coating something that is going to be covered by the decals? Seems like a waste of effort. If the goal is to have the exposed bits pop, I get it but the finish on the decal isn’t going to match the exposed areas. It won’t look very factory. Maybe that is the look you are going for. I’m not dogging you out in the least, just curious. If it were me I would paint the entire cabinet in oil based semi gloss or gloss black and call it good. The end result would be a very factory look. Decals stick great to oil based paints.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:I’m all in favor of doing all the prep work you mentioned but why spend the time clear coating something that is going to be covered by the decals? Seems like a waste of effort. If the goal is to have the exposed bits pop, I get it but the finish on the decal isn’t going to match the exposed areas. It won’t look very factory. Maybe that is the look you are going for. I’m not dogging you out in the least, just curious. If it were me I would paint the entire cabinet in oil based semi gloss or gloss black and call it good. The end result would be a very factory look. Decals stick great to oil based paints.
All the top restorers finish the cab with a clear. Mike Chestnut did like 5 coats of clear and sanded on my white water cabinet before putting the decals on.
Quoted from woody76:All the top restorers finish the cab with a clear. Mike Chestnut did like 5 coats of clear and sanded on my white water cabinet before putting the decals on.
Sure if you are going for the museum look and that might be the case here. I actually prefer the factory look. All my restoration are factory specs with a few exceptions. I like to walk up to a game like it just came out of the shipping box. If it is too pretty I know it has had work done. 
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:Cabinet prep is essential to having your decals look great. In fact I'd say that you will spend 95% of your time prepping for the decal installation as opposed to actually installing them. Any imperfections will show through, since the decals are just a thin skin over the wood.
I've got my Shadow cab completely stripped right now and have gone through two iterations of fiberglass bondo / sand, rinse and repeat. I'll follow with a finer grained filler to smooth things out and get rid of pinholes. Next will be a high fill primer and guide coat, sanded as flat as possible. I'm going to paint everything with black auto paint and then apply a semi-gloss 2 part auto clear. That will end up ready for the decals. I'll probably have at least 40 hours invested in prep before I unroll the decals.
Can you skip the above? Sure. But I'd probably just leave the beat up original decals instead.
I highly suggest watching some of Chris Hutchins' awesome videos from his YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/highendpins/videos
Some pics of my cabinet awaiting the next round of sanding:[quoted image][quoted image]
It’s awesome you put so much effort attention into the cab prep and decal replacement. It’s all worth it in the end! I have a question for skilled cab decalers like you. I bought a White Water that had new decals installed, and they went fully to the edge in all directions so the edges of the decals are slightly peeling and not laying down. I assume he should have either trimmed the decal to leave a 1/8 inch or less margin, with the cab painted underneath, or sanded the edges? My question is, can I repair these? Should I attempt to sand them? Will that just expose raw wood and look worse?
92A2E842-B27F-4CF5-B060-59A6F4C204A6 (resized).jpegQuoted from Pinkitten:It’s awesome you put so much effort attention into the cab prep and decal replacement. It’s all worth it in the end! I have a question for skilled cab decalers like you. I bought a White Water that had new decals installed, and they went fully to the edge in all directions so the edges of the decals are slightly peeling and not laying down. I assume he should have either trimmed the decal to leave a 1/8 inch or less margin, with the cab painted underneath, or sanded the edges? My question is, can I repair these? Should I attempt to sand them? Will that just expose raw wood and look worse?
[quoted image]
That is a pretty sad edge. Clean it up with a new razor blade / exacto and then sand it at a 45 degree angle with good quality sandpaper (like 3M). Use something in the range of 220 to 400. That edge should look great after that.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:That is a pretty sad edge. Clean it up with a new razor blade / exacto and then sand it at a 45 degree angle with good quality sandpaper (like 3M). Use something in the range of 220 to 400. That edge should look great after that.
Very sad edge indeed. I’ll try to trim and sand it and it should improve. Thanks!
Quoted from Pinkitten:Very sad edge indeed. I’ll try to trim and sand it and it should improve. Thanks!
Once sanded as mentioned, you can hit it with a color matched paint pen, or black.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:I’m all in favor of doing all the prep work you mentioned but why spend the time clear coating something that is going to be covered by the decals? Seems like a waste of effort. If the goal is to have the exposed bits pop, I get it but the finish on the decal isn’t going to match the exposed areas. It won’t look very factory. Maybe that is the look you are going for. I’m not dogging you out in the least, just curious. If it were me I would paint the entire cabinet in oil based semi gloss or gloss black and call it good. The end result would be a very factory look. Decals stick great to oil based paints.
I'll be honest - I'm a bit iffy on the clear coat myself and have never done it before. Chris Hutchins does it on all of his cabinets and they look stunning, so I was going to give it a shot on this restore. He uses a flattening agent to cut down on the gloss. The biggest benefit is durability. I'll probably try it on the backbox first and see how it comes out before doing the cabinet.
Quoted from Pinkitten:It’s awesome you put so much effort attention into the cab prep and decal replacement. It’s all worth it in the end! I have a question for skilled cab decalers like you. I bought a White Water that had new decals installed, and they went fully to the edge in all directions so the edges of the decals are slightly peeling and not laying down. I assume he should have either trimmed the decal to leave a 1/8 inch or less margin, with the cab painted underneath, or sanded the edges? My question is, can I repair these? Should I attempt to sand them? Will that just expose raw wood and look worse?
[quoted image]
Chris has a great video on how he finishes off his decals and cabinet edges.
Thanks for the tips and video! Just a bit of sanding alone made a big difference, and I just used whatever paper I had on hand. I’ll restore this one with new decals one day. But here is the before and after…sorry this is in the Shadow thread! My Shadow is 2 pins down from WH2O. 
A9CB2E1C-ED00-4A20-A77C-76F66570693F (resized).pngE152969A-8C9B-4D88-9BCF-5FDE17219C05 (resized).jpegQuoted from Pinkitten:Thanks for the tips and video! Just a bit of sanding alone made a big difference, and I just used whatever paper I had on hand. I’ll restore this one with new decals one day. But here is the before and after…sorry this is in the Shadow thread! My Shadow is 2 pins down from WH2O.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Big improvement!
Quoted from Manny65:Have you found what the actual issue was that was causing switch 33 to activate - a flaky emitter, a bad solder joint or poor connector?
Took me awhile to find the time to really get into this. But once I got the opt out it was pretty obvious with the problem was. The wire must have just been pressed up to the connectors by the playfield against the bracket. It all fell apart when I pulled it out. Quick solder job and I'm back in business.
PXL_20211208_002205303 (resized).jpgQuoted from Pinkitten:Thanks for the tips and video! Just a bit of sanding alone made a big difference, and I just used whatever paper I had on hand. I’ll restore this one with new decals one day. But here is the before and after…sorry this is in the Shadow thread! My Shadow is 2 pins down from WH2O.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Well done!
Quoted from jonesjb:I’m fortunate to own three pins: Shadow, Guns N Roses CE, and a Blood Suckers Rick and Morty. Shadow is still my favorite of the 3, and the last one I’d sell. It just doesn’t get old.
This game is so good. A true masterpiece! Just joined the team shadow last week!
Quoted from jonesjb:It just doesn’t get old.
Not sure how you think this. Game has 6 scenes you play through every game. Nothing about this game brings me back over and over. It always plays the same.
Once I get this final battle done, Im moving on. Something deeper. Im bored of the scenes and such. Very repetitive.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Not sure how you think this. Game has 6 scenes you play through every game. Nothing about this game brings me back over and over. It always plays the same.
Once I get this final battle done, Im moving on. Something deeper. Im bored of the scenes and such. Very repetitive.
Different tastes for different people... Which is why it’s great there are so many titles of pins out there.
How long have you been trying to get to final battle?
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Not sure how you think this. Game has 6 scenes you play through every game. Nothing about this game brings me back over and over. It always plays the same.
Once I get this final battle done, Im moving on. Something deeper. Im bored of the scenes and such. Very repetitive.
Every 90s game has this type of rule structure. This is one of the deepest ones too.
Quoted from jonesjb:Different tastes for different people... Which is why it’s great there are so many titles of pins out there.
How long have you been trying to get to final battle?
Ive had the game since July 2019, lol. Ive been close. No cigar yet.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Every 90s game has this type of rule structure. This is one of the deepest ones too.
Ya, I think I am just bored of 90s mode based games. I still love my 80s games that are all scoring based. Something about the same call outs and such over and over. Just gets boring.
I like how my t2 shot but that game was so freaking boring after a while. I sold that for this and now I am bored again. Lol
I think I just need a newer deeper pin. Something where not all the modes are linear and laid out the same way every game.
Right now Im shooting the loop to get into the shadow mb hole to get all my scenes. Then I wait until the farley mode to go to the battlefield. That way I can knock him out and the battlefield at the same time.
Then I will work my way back to the easy multiballs (shadow and khan) if I havent already inadvertently started them.
Really, you can skip all the modes and go right for final battle if you time them all out. I know the game is hard but maybe getting the insert on the scarf should have been if you COMPLETE the multiballs, not just start them.
Well I will say you’re playing the game in a very boring way. You didn’t even mention vengeance and that’s the best mode in the game.
You want to play all the modes to get big bonus collects. Hotel monolith is one of the best modes of the 90s and you’re skipping it to get to the end.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Well I will say you’re playing the game in a very boring way. You didn’t even mention vengeance and that’s the best mode in the game.
Collecting that (combo) Super Vengeance is so damn fun. On the surface, it's a pretty simple objective but when you pull off the combo and get the call out, it's a perfect pinball moment, in my opinion at least.
Hell, just going for Super Jackpot in KHAN MB is a fun and difficult to achieve objective.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:I still love my 80s games that are all scoring based.
Quoted from chuckwurt:You want to play all the modes to get big bonus collects.
You should focus on the big bonus and play the Shadow like an 80s game, just for points.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Well I will say you’re playing the game in a very boring way. You didn’t even mention vengeance and that’s the best mode in the game.
You want to play all the modes to get big bonus collects. Hotel monolith is one of the best modes of the 90s and you’re skipping it to get to the end.
Just trying to get this final battle done and move on.
Vengeance…whooo shoot two ramps over and over. Lol.
Ive already scored over 1b on this game. Its about the final battle now.
I cant believe you did this! Did what? Snooze.
Any one in the chicago area want a two for one trade dejp and shadow for a newer elwin pin. I am listening.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Ive had the game since July 2019, lol. Ive been close. No cigar yet.
Ya, I think I am just bored of 90s mode based games. I still love my 80s games that are all scoring based. Something about the same call outs and such over and over. Just gets boring.
I like how my t2 shot but that game was so freaking boring after a while. I sold that for this and now I am bored again. Lol
I think I just need a newer deeper pin. Something where not all the modes are linear and laid out the same way every game.
Right now Im shooting the loop to get into the shadow mb hole to get all my scenes. Then I wait until the farley mode to go to the battlefield. That way I can knock him out and the battlefield at the same time.
Then I will work my way back to the easy multiballs (shadow and khan) if I havent already inadvertently started them.
Really, you can skip all the modes and go right for final battle if you time them all out. I know the game is hard but maybe getting the insert on the scarf should have been if you COMPLETE the multiballs, not just start them.
How are you able to hit the Khan shot so consistently? Does the ball reliably/automatically go into the shot if you loop and hold up the upper flipper?
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Auburn, NH
Melbourne
