Just did a 7 way. No billion.
(Topic ID: 46571)
Linked Games
Shadow, The
Bally, 1994
Topic Gallery
New York, NY
Quoted from jonesjb:7 is the highest.
Yeah I couldn’t get it any higher. I assumed it was like Stranger Things. I don’t think that has a limit.
Quoted from Manny65:Nice!! Not sure what the max combo number is but that'd have to be close - what was your combo shots?
Wow...no idea on what shots they were....I just kept firing at the next shot available and it just kept going!
Quoted from chuckwurt:Just did a 7 way. No billion.
Yeah, either my memory is bad or the person I saw say that was wrong. Either way, good to know. Thanks for checking!
The combo shots got up to 35 million a piece by the end though. So maybe a couple hundred million from a 7 way? Not bad.
Quoted from chuckwurt:If you combo into vengeance then combo for the vengeance super that will be around 300 million. I’m gonna test and see.
Do the two ways to get a Super Vengeance actually stack? And if so, wouldn't that be 200m: 100m each?? Or am I just misunderstanding what you're saying?
Either way, I think I'm gonna need to try this.
Quoted from shaub:Do the two ways to get a Super Vengeance actually stack? And if so, wouldn't that be 200m: 100m each?? Or am I just misunderstanding what you're saying?
Either way, I think I'm gonna need to try this.
I think vengeance is worth double if your combo into it. So maybe that’s the kicker. There’s a way to get a 200M vengeance jackpot, but I cannot remember if it’s you have to combo into vengeance then combo the ramps again once in vengeance, or simply combo into vengeance then the double values are set.
The rule sheet says:
Vengeance is a cool 30 second mode where each ring is worth 5, 7, 9, 11, etc million. Completing all four awards 50 million, and restarts the timer. There is a very friendly grace period at the end of the mode, so you can still score Vengeance after the sound/music has stopped.
If you start Vengeance as part of a combo (ie: the combo collects the last ring), you start Combo Vengeance where each ramp is worth 10 million.
If, during Vengeance or Combo Vengeance, you get all rings in a row (ie: a combo), you are awarded 100 million as a Super Vengeance.
Quoted from horseflesh:If you start Vengeance as part of a combo (ie: the combo collects the last ring), you start Combo Vengeance where each ramp is worth 10 million.
If, during Vengeance or Combo Vengeance, you get all rings in a row (ie: a combo), you are awarded 100 million as a Super Vengeance
Oh interesting, I always thought both ways just doubled the 50mil jackpot.
Finally replaced the decals on the head of my Shadow. They were fairly banged up. The rest of the cab is decent. I need to finish a few spots with some black paint. But my first decals turned out ok. Huge improvement!
1136A599-A26C-423A-98A4-938246ABDA20 (resized).jpeg43B7AA08-ED62-4033-BF00-89184EF0EAF5 (resized).jpeg
Siegen
Quoted from Pinkitten:Finally replaced the decals on the head of my Shadow. They were fairly banged up. The rest of the cab is decent. I need to finish a few spots with some black paint. But my first decals turned out ok. Huge improvement!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice! Where did you buy these decals? How do the colours match compared to the cab?
I bought the decals at pinball centre they’re great. A must is pinsound if you can. Just finished the restore.
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Quoted from PinheadEDM:I bought the decals at pinball centre they’re great. A must is pinsound if you can. Just finished the restore.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Beautiful restore. I love the black wireforms.
Quoted from epeabs:Beautiful restore. I love the black wireforms.
Thank you very much!
Quoted from DrBernd:Nice! Where did you buy these decals? How do the colours match compared to the cab?
I bought these from another Pinsider about a year ago and never got around to replacing them until now. The color is slightly more blue than the original, which looked more green or teal to me. Big improvement over my damaged ones.
65568DCE-8E1C-4B7C-B335-FE37E9CB22CF (resized).jpegF9BD34AE-3F12-483C-A2D5-359D4CDE1B8F (resized).jpegQuoted from Pinkitten:I bought these from another Pinsider about a year ago and never got around to replacing them until now. The color is slightly more blue than the original, which looked more green or teal to me. Big improvement over my damaged ones.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks!
I've gotten most of the gameplay dialed in on my project Shadow but a few items remain:
Flipper buttons are feel spongy, don't have the right resistance which makes it difficult to get full power shots in succession for loops around the playfield. I've never owned a WCS game before so not sure how I add that resistance to the flipper button as the whole mechanism is plastic.
Also replaced my microswitch on the left ramp/diverter and the game will recognize the shot going through the right side of the ramp but not always activate the ring light. This effects the skill shot as well. The game will play the animation of the ball going through that area, but not always award the shot or the ring.
Appreciate any input you can provide!
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Also replaced my microswitch on the left ramp/diverter and the game will recognize the shot going through the right side of the ramp but not always activate the ring light.
If your left ramp/right side switch is in the default position, it is common for the ball to fly over the first switch without activating it. There are 2 ways to fix it that I am aware of. There is a magnetic switch replacement mod, or you can make a plastic part to relocate the existing switch farther down the wireform where it can't be missed.
I did the latter and it works well. I don't know anything about the switch upgrade mod, maybe someone can post a good link.
(BTW I am planning on replacing my own kinda ugly hand-cut extension with a nice laser cut one. Once I get the design figured out, it is no trouble to cut another... LMK if you'd like one.)
Melbourne
Quoted from paulbaptiste:I've gotten most of the gameplay dialed in on my project Shadow but a few items remain:
Flipper buttons are feel spongy, don't have the right resistance which makes it difficult to get full power shots in succession for loops around the playfield. I've never owned a WCS game before so not sure how I add that resistance to the flipper button as the whole mechanism is plastic.
Also replaced my microswitch on the left ramp/diverter and the game will recognize the shot going through the right side of the ramp but not always activate the ring light. This effects the skill shot as well. The game will play the animation of the ball going through that area, but not always award the shot or the ring.
Appreciate any input you can provide!
As per horseflesh post,
Sonic (https://pinside.com/pinball/biz/directory/1772-mampm-creations) makes a Magnetic Reed Switch (MRS) which is installed on the right hand side on the PF. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/157#post-5999229 shows the switch installed on his machine.
Alternatively some people simply extend (or replace the switch actuator arm) https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/127#post-5252959 although if the ball is hopping over the top of your switch ( rotordave did a slo-mo clip showing this https://www.facebook.com/532998618/posts/10157373319658619?s=532998618&sfns=mo) then relocating the switch will work better either extending the bracket (as per the below posts) or moving the switch to where the MRS switch is installed works as well
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/106#post-4816121
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/117#post-5045238
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/127#post-5257836
Quoted from horseflesh:If your left ramp/right side switch is in the default position, it is common for the ball to fly over the first switch without activating it. There are 2 ways to fix it that I am aware of. There is a magnetic switch replacement mod, or you can make a plastic part to relocate the existing switch farther down the wireform where it can't be missed.
I did the latter and it works well. I don't know anything about the switch upgrade mod, maybe someone can post a good link.
(BTW I am planning on replacing my own kinda ugly hand-cut extension with a nice laser cut one. Once I get the design figured out, it is no trouble to cut another... LMK if you'd like one.)
Can you snap a picture of you relocation method?
Quoted from Manny65:As per horseflesh post, Sonic (https://pinside.com/pinball/biz/directory/1772-mampm-creations) makes a Magnetic Reed Switch (MRS) which is installed on the right hand side on the PF. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/157#post-5999229 shows the switch installed on his machine
I have the MRS switch installed on the right side of the playfield. The game will show the animation of the ball going through the tube and the ring is lit text, but not light the ring or award the shot. What does the far right MRS switch do as opposed to the the one directly off the right ramp? If the first microswitch
(right off the ramp) doesn't register, should the replacement MRS switch catch it?
I installed the MRS switch after reading recommendations here thinking that would eliminate that problem all together. Maybe I'm missing something.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Can you snap a picture of you relocation method?
I have the MRS switch installed on the right side of the playfield. The game will show the animation of the ball going through the tube and the ring is lit text, but not light the ring or award the shot. What does the far right MRS switch do as opposed to the the one directly off the right ramp? If the first microswitch
(right off the ramp) doesn't register, should the replacement MRS switch catch it?
I installed the MRS switch after reading recommendations here thinking that would eliminate that problem all together. Maybe I'm missing something.
The MRS replaces the microswitch and you shouldn't have both installed. The MRS is a simple switch (the same as a microswitch) and the game simply recognises the switch closing but as to why is triggers the DMD clip but doesn't light the ring or award the shot sounds more like a CPU game issue. That said if you have both switches installed I'd suggest disconnecting the original microswitch and seeing if the behaviour continues
Quoted from Manny65:The MRS replaces the microswitch and you shouldn't have both installed. The MRS is a simple switch (the same as a microswitch) and the game simply recognises the switch closing but as to why is triggers the DMD clip but doesn't light the ring or award the shot sounds more like a CPU game issue. That said if you have both switches installed I'd suggest disconnecting the original microswitch and seeing if the behaviour continues
We are getting our wires crossed. There is a microswitch on the wire form right when the ball drops off the left ramp/ride side as well as the mrs switch at the other end of that wire form.
I did disconnect the microswitch replaced by the Mrs switch.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:We are getting our wires crossed. There is a microswitch on the wire form right when the ball drops off the left ramp/ride side as well as the mrs switch at the other end of that wire form.
I did disconnect the microswitch replaced by the Mrs switch.
Just to confirm, you've disconnected the microswitch on the wire form right when the ball drops off the left ramp/right side - is that right? Probably better to remove the switch altogether, as on some games a slow ball that just makes the ramp can get trapped as it doesn't have enough momentum to get past the switch actuator.
EDIT: Go into switch test mode and and activate the MRS - which switch number is being trigger? Maybe you've wired the MRS to the wrong microswitch wires??
Quoted from Manny65:Just to confirm, you've disconnected the microswitch on the wire form right when the ball drops off the left ramp/right side - is that right? Probably better to remove the switch altogether, as on some games a slow ball that just makes the ramp can get trapped as it doesn't have enough momentum to get past the switch actuator.
To troubleshoot your issue, I'd go into switch test mode and verify that the MRS is working and being seen by the game - if this is case then the issue is not the switch but cpu/game code related
That microswitch on the left ramp/right side is still connected. I disconnected the old microswitch on the other side of that wire form when updating to the mrs switch. I didn’t think I was eliminating the one coming off the ramp.
And yes, slow balls will get stuck there iften
Quoted from paulbaptiste:That microswitch on the left ramp/right side is still connected. I disconnected the old microswitch on the other side of that wire form when updating to the mrs switch. I didn’t think I was eliminating the one coming off the ramp.
And yes, slow balls will get stuck there iften
Yes sounds like you've disconnected the wrong microswitch
The below pic shows the 4 ramp switches (red arrows). The MRS replaces the "Left ramp right switch" microswitch and is positioned where the yellow/red highlighted arrow points. The left ramp right switch that is being replaced is switch #76 (I think you've replaced switch #78)
TS ramp switches (resized).jpgMy mrs switch is actually triggering the right ramp right switch. I must’ve plugged some things in wrong when putting this game together.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Flipper buttons are feel spongy, don't have the right resistance which makes it difficult to get full power
I’ve noticed this also with this version of the flipper assemblies. I don’t think they used the metal flap that presses against the plastic arm and provides a snappier flipper button return, but you might be able to add them anyway or modify them? I just replaced these on my Cirq Voltaire, they are $5 from Marco. A tiny rubber band around the arm and then around the pal nut might create more snap too.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Can you snap a picture of you relocation method?
Here is a top-down view. I just relocated the switch farther down the wireform with some ugly hand-cut plastic. It has been 100% reliable. It isn't pretty in this view, but in playing position it isn't as visible as you would think. Now that I can cut acrylic easily on my laser I have a plan to remake the part into something that will be less obtrusive still.
Shadow left ramp right side switch relocation (resized).pngshadow left ramp view from playing position (resized).pngQuoted from paulbaptiste:My mrs switch is actually triggering the right ramp right switch. I must’ve plugged some things in wrong when putting this game together.
We are working 100%!! Allshots registering on the ramps! Not sure how I missed unplugging both micro switches on that wire form. I didn’t understand I was eliminating one completely but thought I was merely substituting the MRS switch for an existing switch.
Quoted from Pinkitten:I’ve noticed this also with this version of the flipper assemblies. I don’t think they used the metal flap that presses against the plastic arm and provides a snappier flipper button return, but you might be able to add them anyway or modify them? I just replaced these on my Cirq Voltaire, they are $5 from Marco. A tiny rubber band around the arm and then around the pal nut might create more snap too.
[quoted image]
I saw some spring plates on Marcos which I plan to order. Will change out the flipper buttons themselves as well.
Appreciate everyone helping!
Quoted from horseflesh:Here is a top-down view. I just relocated the switch farther down the wireform with some ugly hand-cut plastic. It has been 100% reliable. It isn't pretty in this view, but in playing position it isn't as visible as you would think. Now that I can cut acrylic easily on my laser I have a plan to remake the part into something that will be less obtrusive still. [quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks for that. I think the MRS switch is a great option as it eliminates that altogether. Had I known before I could just scrap that switch it would’ve saved me a lot of headaches. Appreciate the pictures!
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Thanks for that. I think the MRS switch is a great option as it eliminates that altogether. Had I known before I could just scrap that switch it would’ve saved me a lot of headaches. Appreciate the pictures!
Glad you got this resolved... Manny65 is the man - we were watching from the sidelines - but we recognized that manny had you on the straight....glad you like the MRS!
Matt
M&M Creations
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Thanks for that. I think the MRS switch is a great option as it eliminates that altogether. Had I known before I could just scrap that switch it would’ve saved me a lot of headaches. Appreciate the pictures!
Now that I see one installed, I want one too. When I made the bracket a million years ago I don't think they were available.
Has anyone had an issue where the right slingshot also activates the ball lock? The switch edges test doesn't show anything amiss, it only seems to happen during gameplay.
This game continues to set itself apart from anything in my collection. I have some highly regarded games and Shadow calls to me more than anything I own. I cant really explain why but once I get it in sync and hit Ramps and change diverted and get lucky enough to sink a jackpot or tie it into a multiball…. There’s nothing like it!
Quoted from trolldownstairs:Has anyone had an issue where the right slingshot also activates the ball lock? The switch edges test doesn't show anything amiss, it only seems to happen during gameplay.
Presumably if the game thinks there is a ball in the Sanctum lock it awards the lock, however it got there. You can probably verify that with the glass off.
The Sanctum lock switches are in the same switch column as the right sling. Even if the switch test doesn't show it, there must be a matrix problem that hits a lock switch when the sling switch is hit.
shadow sanctum lock switches (resized).pngshadow switch matrix (resized).pngQuoted from trolldownstairs:Has anyone had an issue where the right slingshot also activates the ball lock? The switch edges test doesn't show anything amiss, it only seems to happen during gameplay.
Most likely a flaky/shorted diode - if you go into switch test mode and trigger the right slingshot, watch the matrix display on the DMD to see if 63, 64 or 65 are also closing (in addition to 62 the right slingshot). This could be intermittent depending upon the issue and why you didn't notice anything in your test. Alternatively when you're playing take a note of which lock is being triggered. Now if switch 64 is being falsely triggered with the right sling, this aligns with 2 closed switches on column 2 - in which case you'd want to check the diodes on switches 62, 64, 22 & 24. Here's terryb video of the theory behind the issue
TS Switch Matrix (resized).JPGThat's the video I always needed to see Manny65!
that video helps a lot... but unfortunately I'm still having issues.
So I can get the error to show in the switch test now, as long as I have the coin door closed. Switch 62 will alternate switch 33 on and off. I tried unplugging switch 32, but I still get the error. I'm thinking now I might have an opto board issue.
ok, on further inspection it might just be a short or something.... I was putting the glass back on the the machine while it was still in switch edges test, and banged the machine a bit.... switch 33 then registered.
I think the slingshot might just jolt the machine enough to activate something.
Quoted from trolldownstairs:ok, on further inspection it might just be a short or something.... I was putting the glass back on the the machine while it was still in switch edges test, and banged the machine a bit.... switch 33 then registered.
I think the slingshot might just jolt the machine enough to activate something.
Check the solder joints on both the emitter and receiver optos for switch 33
In switch test mode did you check each switch and watch the matrix display for multiple activations? For example when you trigger the right sling, does it light not only matrix 62 but also one of lock switches (63-65)?
Quoted from Manny65:Check the solder joints on both the emitter and receiver optos for switch 33
In switch test mode did you check each switch and watch the matrix display for multiple activations? For example when you trigger the right sling, does it light not only matrix 62 but also one of lock switches (63-65)?
Yeah, none of the lock switches are activating when the sling goes. If I have the coin door open, disconnecting the highpower, triggering switches all work like they should. When I close the coin door, triggering the slings cause the solenoids to fire, which then activate switch 33 intermittently.
What really clued me in finally, is that in switch test, if I bang my fists down on the rails (regardless of coin door status), switch 33 then triggers. Honest, I wasn't really banging my fists down in rage and frustration.... 
Quoted from trolldownstairs:Yeah, none of the lock switches are activating when the sling goes. If I have the coin door open, disconnecting the highpower, triggering switches all work like they should. When I close the coin door, triggering the slings cause the solenoids to fire, which then activate switch 33 intermittently.
What really clued me in finally, is that in switch test, if I bang my fists down on the rails (regardless of coin door status), switch 33 then triggers. Honest, I wasn't really banging my fists down in rage and frustration....
Have you found what the actual issue was that was causing switch 33 to activate - a flaky emitter, a bad solder joint or poor connector?
Quoted from Manny65:Have you found what the actual issue was that was causing switch 33 to activate - a flaky emitter, a bad solder joint or poor connector?
Not as of yet. It's cocktail o'clock here in California.....
I got my magnetic left ramp switch from Sonic today, and it's very nice. When I ordered, I actually expected a bare switch... not a switch built into a nice bracket with a connector ready to go! Install was a snap. I spent more time replacing some bulbs while I had the hood open.
The last picture with the block touching the ball just shows the included gap sizing guide in slipped into place. The bracket produced exactly the right gap once screwed down though, no fiddling around was required.
Thanks Sonic, this looks much nicer than changing the original switch location.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from horseflesh:I got my magnetic left ramp switch from Sonic today, and it's very nice. When I ordered, I actually expected a bare switch... not a switch built into a nice bracket with a connector ready to go! Install was a snap. I spent more time replacing some bulbs while I had the hood open.
The last picture with the block touching the ball just shows the included gap sizing guide in slipped into place. The bracket produced exactly the right gap once screwed down though, no fiddling around was required.
Thanks Sonic, this looks much nicer than changing the original switch location.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Always glad to help! Pics are fantastic!
Matt
M&M Creations
"we don't touch your balls...."
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