(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

10 years ago


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  • 10,915 posts
  • 754 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 34 hours ago by onemoresean
  • Topic is favorited by 276 Pinsiders

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4 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 10,915 posts in this topic. You are on page 180 of 219.
#8951 2 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

Is the switch to the right side of the left ramp causing the interference with the ball?
If so, you might try replacing the micro switch with an MRS, which works without touching the ball.
https://pinside.com/pinball/biz/directory/1772-mampm-creations

Thanks - I have the MRS switch installed. Slower shots were getting stuck on that switch. One problem solved - now it’s the fast shots that are a problem.

#8952 2 years ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

Any hard shot to the right side of the left ramp is flying off the rails. Which screws need to be loosened? The ones at the base of the ramp? I don't have any play to work with when I loosen those screws. Thanks.

Got any velcro strips laying around? The kind you use for cable management. Place it here as I did in the photo. One or two times around should do the trick.

20210917_163924 (resized).jpg20210917_163924 (resized).jpg
#8953 2 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Got any velcro strips laying around? The kind you use for cable management. Place it here as I did in the photo. One or two times around should do the trick.
[quoted image]

Nice hack. Looks good to me.

#8954 2 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Not sure which component you are referring to as the pressure plate, however check part #14 and #16 for wear (the pin on the lower part of the plunger pulls the lever #16 up but the metal of metal causes the pin and slot to become worn over time). People (including myself) have found that replacing these worn parts will address the sorts of issues you are experiencing
[quoted image]

I finally got the parts in to freshen up the wall mechanism and it seems to be rock solid now! Thanks for the help.

#8955 2 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Got any velcro strips laying around? The kind you use for cable management. Place it here as I did in the photo. One or two times around should do the trick.
[quoted image]

Will give it a try - thanks. I put some felt tape on the curve of the diverter to slow the ball down - I think it has helped a bit but not completely so maybe this will do it.

#8956 2 years ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

I believe they are the same sheet metal screws that are used to attach lamp sockets and other things underneath.

Thanks. I’ll try to find one to see if it fits

#8957 2 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

What’s the best way to test a transistor?

It was the transistor. Replaced and back up in running! Such a good game with lots a variety. Hotel Monolith mode might be the best in all of pinball!

#8958 2 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

It was the transistor. Replaced and back up in running! Such a good game with lots a variety. Hotel Monolith mode might be the best in all of pinball!

So good. Hard to beat horde though.

I just wish I didn’t suck and could get to the second phase of this mode more often. Haha

#8959 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

So good. Hard to beat horde though.
I just wish I didn’t suck and could get to the second phase of this mode more often. Haha

I'm glad I'm not the only one. You would think it would be simple enough, but nope! I drain out almost every time.

And 100% agree on Horde!

#8960 2 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

It was the transistor. Replaced and back up in running! Such a good game with lots a variety. Hotel Monolith mode might be the best in all of pinball!

Well .. so much for that. Now the right eject coil (start mode hole) is locking on...what could be causing various transistors to be getting fried? Just coincidence from age? Something with the game? House electricity? Dammit

#8961 2 years ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

Thanks - I have the MRS switch installed. Slower shots were getting stuck on that switch. One problem solved - now it’s the fast shots that are a problem.

Do you still have the old switch on the rail?

#8962 2 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Well .. so much for that. Now the right eject coil (start mode hole) is locking on...what could be causing various transistors to be getting fried? Just coincidence from age? Something with the game? House electricity? Dammit

I would think coincidence - maybe test all the transistors, when you have the board out, to see if any others are slightly out of tolerance and maybe on the way out

#8963 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Do you still have the old switch on the rail?

No

#8964 2 years ago

I have a complete un-used Aurich package here and haven't decided on whether or not to install it on my machine??

#8965 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballOrphanage:

I have a complete un-used Aurich package here and haven't decided on whether or not to install it on my machine??

Why? It’s awesome. Do it.

#8966 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballOrphanage:

have a complete un-used Aurich package here and haven't decided on whether or not to install it on my machine??

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Why? It’s awesome. Do it.

While you don't play the translite, somehow Aurich's makes the game more fun. I mean, not really, but it really makes the game look so much better and way less cheesy.

#8967 2 years ago

I haven’t had any luck in finding this plastic. I will try one more time. Does anyone have this plastic that they can part with? I don’t want to buy a new plastic set but might have to.

FCA42FCD-BECA-4D3D-95F2-75402C0E69D9 (resized).jpegFCA42FCD-BECA-4D3D-95F2-75402C0E69D9 (resized).jpeg
3 weeks later
#8968 2 years ago

Having one final issue I’m hoping the club can help with. I have all lights working minus one row.

The entire bottom row of lights is not working at all.Starting with Right Mongol hurry up all the way through Credit button.

I looked for J133-9 on the power driver board and nothing is plugged in to J133 at all.

What am I missing here?

7E8CE405-5237-4707-9B51-CEBCE116A680 (resized).jpeg7E8CE405-5237-4707-9B51-CEBCE116A680 (resized).jpeg
#8969 2 years ago

Here is a photo of what my power driver board looks like. Is is there a connector stuck under the board, or just below the backbox heading into the cabinet?

20211013_224804 (resized).jpg20211013_224804 (resized).jpg
#8970 2 years ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

Having one final issue I’m hoping the club can help with. I have all lights working minus one row.
The entire bottom row of lights is not working at all.Starting with Right Mongol hurry up all the way through Credit button.
I looked for J133-9 on the power driver board and nothing is plugged in to J133 at all.
What am I missing here?[quoted image]

J133, 134 and 135 are all the same. Find the one that has pin 9 wired. That should be the problem child. Feel free to put it in the correct header with power off to the game.

#8971 2 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

J133, 134 and 135 are all the same. Find the one that has pin 9 wired. That should be the problem child. Feel free to put it in the correct header with power off to the game.

Thank you! I was a little perplexed staring at the empty space on the board.

#8972 2 years ago

Anyone interested in my original playfield? Has typical sanctum wear spot, but otherwise in very good condition...200.00 plus shipping. Shoot me a PM if interested.

Sold!

#8973 2 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

J133, 134 and 135 are all the same. Find the one that has pin 9 wired. That should be the problem child. Feel free to put it in the correct header with power off to the game.

I repinned the connector and it that row is still out. Should I replace Q83 or possible the problem is on the playfield?

#8974 2 years ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

I repinned the connector and it that row is still out. Should I replace Q83 or possible the problem is on the playfield?

Did you try putting the connector on a different header (J133, 134 or 135) as in might be that you have a cold solder joint on that particular header pin?

#8975 2 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Did you try putting the connector on a different header (J133, 134 or 135) as in might be that you have a cold solder joint on that particular header pin?

Yes. I tried all three.

#8976 2 years ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

I repinned the connector and it that row is still out. Should I replace Q83 or possible the problem is on the playfield?

I would be looking to replace q83 if the wire going to pin 9 on the connector is making good contact. Those IDC connectors can be tricky.

#8977 2 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I would be looking to replace q83 if the wire going to pin 9 on the connector is making good contact. Those IDC connectors can be tricky.

I ordered in some transistors just in case. I don’t want to take the board out, but I do want the game to work 100%. I appreciate the help. I’ll get it out this weekend and desolder/solder it back together again.

#8978 2 years ago

Where can I get plastic protectors for just the slings?

#8979 2 years ago
Quoted from onemoresean:

Where can I get plastic protectors for just the slings?

Other plastics are far more prone to break than the slings. I would just get the entire set of protectors.

#8980 2 years ago

If anyone is looking for a replacement Battlefield shroud, I have an extra for sale. This is the black chrome version that was produced a couple of years ago:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-battlefield-shroud-in-black-chrome

#8981 2 years ago

"almost" done..

pinside (resized).jpgpinside (resized).jpg
#8982 2 years ago

Holy shit that looks nice.

#8983 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Holy shit that looks nice.

Nice and oem for sure. I still think those orange domes were a mistake from factory.

#8984 2 years ago
Quoted from Dennis_B:

"almost" done..
[quoted image]

Green bats looks really sharp. I'm just looking at everyone's restos and taking notes.

#8985 2 years ago
Quoted from Dennis_B:

"almost" done..
[quoted image]

Amazing man, where did you clearcoat that ramps? and phurbas?
Regards

#8986 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Nice and oem for sure. I still think those orange domes were a mistake from factory.

Mine has orange flasher domes as well.

#8987 2 years ago

I have orange flasher domes too.

#8988 2 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Mine has orange flasher domes as well.

I just dont like it. It matches nothing. Reminds me of the safety beacons from construction. Purple all the way!

I would even say something crazy like GREEN might even look dope on his game.

$0.02

#8989 2 years ago
Quoted from RGAires:

Amazing man, where did you clearcoat that ramps? and phurbas?
Regards

There's no clearcoat , just a lot of polishing.

#8990 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I just dont like it. It matches nothing. Reminds me of the safety beacons from construction. Purple all the way!
I would even say something crazy like GREEN might even look dope on his game.
$0.02

I don't like the orange either. Just mentioning that mine also has orange flasher domes installed prior to my purchsse. I'm converting to blue when I do my restore. I'm not a huge purple lover, but they do work well on Shadow.
Heres my friend's game I just redid with purple domes. Much nicer.

20210908_225842 (resized).jpg20210908_225842 (resized).jpg
#8991 2 years ago
Quoted from Dennis_B:

There's no clearcoat , just a lot of polishing.

Dremel tools?

#8992 2 years ago
sanding and then polishing with polishingpaste.

#8993 2 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

I don't like the orange either. Just mentioning that mine also has orange flasher domes installed prior to my purchsse. I'm converting to blue when I do my restore. I'm not a huge purple lover, but they do work well on Shadow.
Heres my friend's game I just redid with purple domes. Much nicer.[quoted image]

I don't know it is always a work in progess i guess I tried purple domes but i think domes are plain ugly in any color. Especially on the wireframes. Just ordered some plain white ones and will try to put some colorfilm inside them.

#8994 2 years ago
Quoted from Dennis_B:

sanding and then polishing with polishingpaste.

very nice , i thought they were brand new ramps !

#8995 2 years ago
Quoted from Dennis_B:

"almost" done..
[quoted image]

Nice looking game. I like how you removed the decal from the diverters.
Quick question, the Final battle scarf looks an awfully faded shade of red, is your playfield a CPR repro?

#8996 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I just dont like it. It matches nothing. Reminds me of the safety beacons from construction. Purple all the way!
I would even say something crazy like GREEN might even look dope on his game.
$0.02

I used to be anti orange as well (I have purple on my shadow), but after working on the lighting and nuance of my pin I've come to understand and respect why orange was used. It's not about the color of the plastic, but the color of the lights from the flash... I believe orange was used to create a very warm light flash which fits well into the 1930s/art deco look.

#8997 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Nice looking game. I like how you removed the decal from the diverters.
Quick question, the Final battle scarf looks an awfully faded shade of red, is your playfield a CPR repro?

No it is no CPR just to much uv. It's a shame but at least it is evenly discolored.

#8998 2 years ago

Look like the Shadow is a killer after all. Wow -

#8999 2 years ago

Thought i'd share this. Anyone ever tried this? Just a cheap piece of felt. Not the prettiest but it is in a spot where my old plastics were heavily beaten up because the ball drops from the battlefield unto the plastics. I think it'll work and it is in a spot where nobody is ever going to see it.

felt (resized).jpgfelt (resized).jpg
#9000 2 years ago
Quoted from Dennis_B:

Thought i'd share this. Anyone ever tried this? Just a cheap piece of felt. Not the prettiest but it is in a spot where my old plastics were heavily beaten up because the ball drops from the battlefield unto the plastics. I think it'll work and it is in a spot where nobody is ever going to see it.
[quoted image]

Yes. It should work fine. I just cut a piece of the old broken plastic and layed overtop.

20211023_182454 (resized).jpg20211023_182454 (resized).jpg
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