Both of these are normal, they happen on every Shadow I've played, including my own.

normal

FWIW my battlefield targets have never not reset immediately, never had that particular issue. So maybe it's common, but dunno if it's "normal" or not.

I just restored a Shadow and the targets reset right away.

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I refurbed mine, including full disassembly of that mechanism and it's possible, if the ball is moving quickly, to beat a target. Fairly uncommon. Happened more often before I cleaned and adjusted it.

So i finally watched the movie on my flight up here to Toronto. Does Farley Claymore never actually say "You're not so scary" in the movie? I was hoping to hear that (and not into the film enough to watch it again)

The only time I have the ball go out the back before I finish the batttlefield is if I am pushing the ball straight at the targets and it has built up enough speed that it doesn't give the target enough time to raise.

Never beat a target on any that I played. Oh and I brought mine home yesterday. Too busy to get it set up tonight but tomorrow it is on!

So I need to shop my shadow. It has full mylar, sanctum is in great shape! Have one burning question, white or black rubber? I usually use white on my games but not sure what this game would play better with.
Also for those that used leds in the GI, did it affect the dimming that this game does so incredibly well? Really do not want to compromise that. Not usually a fan of leds for GI but figured I would ask.

Does anyone in this group have some good used plastics for sale? Also looking for an original manual? Anybody?

I'm installing a new plastic set right now, so I should have the old set soon. I'm sure there are a couple cracked pieces, but for the most part I think they're pretty nice.

Unless you have one of herg's GI boards then yes, no dimming with LEDs.

is that the GI OCD?

Just installed chrome rails and lockbar I got from Mike Chestnut.

Also LED, Aurich's transilite, Brass plated wire forms, nickel plated gun and some other pieces, Magent sticker and new head decals

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Right. Without it you need to turn off all GI dimming effects, they'll just cause some nasty flickering with LEDs. I have not yet had the pleasure of seeing the GI OCD in person, but I do have one of his LED OCD boards for inserts, and it's awesome.

Cost is too much for me to justify right now. Incandescence will work for me for now. If you do get one let us know.

Okay mine does this when it initializes. Seems to cycle the upper PF and the target seems to reset twice (kind of annoying)

So it seems my left phurba really smacks the ramp in both directions. Is there an adjustment for this? I would really rather not have it putting undue stress on the ramp.

I have incandescents for all my GI, and LEDs for all the controlled lamps. The combo looks great on this machine.

So in my research the only way to adjust the diverters travel is to change the coil stops. Not sure if I had the correct ones so I ordered 4. Marco wanted $12 each so I went elsewhere. Ordered a bunch of other parts that I needed.
Also pertaining to the battle field target reset discussion two of mine are slow to go down thus causing the reset to be slow. I ordered the parts needed to clean them up and have faith it will be as fast as others I have played. I will try to keep people up on the progress I make with both of these items as it seems to be a common problem. Also a bolt was snapped off on the bracket for the drop targets. Luckily Marco had this and I ordered one. The fix was to stuff PBR invoices in there to hold the coil stop.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18781

Quick question, can you reset the # of plays on the machine? Was reading through the manual but couldn't find where to reset B1.06 Total Plays or B3.02 Total Plays

Pull out the batteries while the game is turned off.

I have the dimming on for mine and don't notice much GI flickering at all. TS only dims briefly when you lock a ball or when MB starts. When it locks a ball it also flashes every insert madly so I really never noticed it dimmed at this point anyways. TS also really doesn't ghost so it does all-LED pretty well.

Now I have one of Harold's GI OCD boards in JM and THAT does a lot of dimming. The GI dims and pulses with every successful shot. So before I got the board I did have to turn off the dimming. Harold's board now makes the LEDs pulse smoothly and makes for a heck of a show.

Shadow just doesn't do much dimming at all... in fact I have another GI OCD here and am trying to decide which machine needs/deserves it. Not gonna put it in TS though

then you will erase my GC score

I'll just immortalize it here
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Just picked up some parts I had plated from a local place yesterday. I can't wait to reinstall these on my Shadow as my old ones were pretty dull and tarnished.

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You may want to check the condition of the hole in the crank arm. It is a high wear area.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18983

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Thanks, ordered one of these last night. The left diverter has a fair amount of play in it. Hope that is what is doing it.

Mine too. That is how I discovered the problem. When the diverter doesn't always come to rest in the same position, chances are this is the culprit. I may have to go home and install the new one I recieved.

I probably should have ordered two but the right diverter seems ok. The damn coil stops were almost as expensive. If I dont need them at least I will have them for the future.

You can never have too many spare parts for this machine. With all of PPS attention diverted to capitalizing on expensive remake machines, chances are they aren't in any hurry to make replacement parts for games like Shadow.

I personally would go with the new clear rubbers or maybe pick a color from the new company Art at comet pinball talked about that has color rubbers . I'm shopping and fixing his right now and I think I'm going with clear star post with blue rubbers . I recently did one with green post and clear rubbers and it turned out pretty sweet with the LEDs . Just a thought

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I used clear rubbers in mine and it looks great.

Also, full leds look fine in mine, without any OCD boards.

Impressive score! I have owned mine for 2 years and have not broken 2 billion.

Yep, keep an eye on the crank arms my left one looks like the hole is worn quite a bit and its not to far from breaking through to the edge!

I'd like to see someone try to crack 2 billion on mine.

Ill take take the pepsi challenge I put 3 billion on my new one and it is really brutal.. outlanes all the way open and clear coated. My average is below 1 billion for sure on the new one.

Now make it super steep, and you're good to go!

Remove rubbers on inlane posts as well

Crank them back legs all the way up!
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And remove the nuts on the front legs so you can get them all the way down.
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whats the degree of PF?

Steep! I don't have a meter. It also doesn't help that one of the guys before me installed white rubbers. The ball takes mean bounces to the outlanes. If you decide to steepen it up, you may want to close the outlanes a bit to make it even playable. But I like it fast! And fast it is.

I have white rubber as well.. shit is super fast.

Is your next move to install lightning flippers? I wouldn't have thought The Shadow was a game that needed toughening up!

Does any know which bolts are used for the gun handle? I'm trying to find them on marco's website.

I bought a black set for mine, but I haven't installed them... yet

I've got a set of two inchers for my EMs. Thanks for the tip!

Both the Shadow and the BK2K are silly steep, but the Tron is just plain ridiculous. I call them the three amigos, and they reside on the wall of pain.
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Bud, I can easily guess that you like fast pins too...the only one out of place is Twister but I kinda like that one too, another cool Borg design.

Twister may be the fastest one of them all! It has the best single ramp that I know of. Multi balls are crazy! The only thing that makes it too easy is that center post. I may have to remove that.