Since it’s almost impossible for me to get up there for the Khan SJP it doesn’t happen often on mine, but it has happened.
(Topic ID: 46571)
Linked Games
Shadow, The
Bally, 1994
Topic Gallery
Redondo Beach, CA
Quoted from Lmjdad:Would anyone happen to have an extra plastic for sale?
[quoted image]
Just buy the new CPR set. That plastic is always one of the first to break. The reason I say this is the reproduction plastics are drastically different in color. I don’t think you would be happy if you were just able to fine the broken one and replace it. The color contrast would drive you nuts. Just get the replacement set and replace everything.
Quoted from RTS:The problem is ithere is ZERO challenge if you get the left saucer simply by holding up the upper flipper. Starting modes is the toughest shot in the game.
While I agree that the raised upper flipper to KHAN Saucer shot DOES make the game a lot easier when it comes to the Scenes, I wouldnt say there is "ZERO" challenge. The game (at least mine) is super drainy and tough to control the ball no matter what. My machine started doing it for a short while after replacing the upper flipper rubber while it was on location and I can say with great certainty that a few players who probably wouldn't normally see Final Battle got their chance. Luckily (for me) by the time our next tourney came up, the rubber had gotten worked in and it stopped doing it.
Taking that away from my game effectively guarantees that the average game will start 1-3 modes max. With how hard the modes are, I want to see them as often as possible.
And I’ll be using this exact game in tournaments all year. As long as the 4 player matches stay under 25 mins, I don’t care if they are getting Final battle every game. Haha.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Taking that away from my game effectively guarantees that the average game will start 1-3 modes max. With how hard the modes are, I want to see them as often as possible.
And I’ll be using this exact game in tournaments all year. As long as the 4 player matches stay under 25 mins, I don’t care if they are getting Final battle every game. Haha.
I typically see 3 modes or so on an average game. The thing with Shadow is that when you're in the flow, it feels SOOOO good which means the modes come by a bit easier. Getting Super Vengeance in a 4 shot combo is the best! I also make it just a bit harder by going for the Laugh mode each game too.
Plus smashing the Kahn hole with the upper flipper has the most satisfying clunk. So good.
Quoted from Methos:You're not supposed to get to the final battle that often.
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Agreed.
Quoted from shaub:While I agree that the raised upper flipper to KHAN Saucer shot DOES make the game a lot easier when it comes to the Scenes, I wouldnt say there is "ZERO" challenge. The game (at least mine) is super drainy and tough to control the ball no matter what. My machine started doing it for a short while after replacing the upper flipper rubber while it was on location and I can say with great certainty that a few players who probably wouldn't normally see Final Battle got their chance. Luckily (for me) by the time our next tourney came up, the rubber had gotten worked in and it stopped doing it.
Totally agree. The game is an ass-kicker. The zero challenge I was referring to was specific to the Khan saucer.
I'm very familiar playing games with less than 2 modes started. And I have never gotten to FB without the help of extra balls.
But when things start to flow and shots are working, the game is very satisfying.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Taking that away from my game effectively guarantees that the average game will start 1-3 modes max. With how hard the modes are, I want to see them as often as possible.
And I’ll be using this exact game in tournaments all year. As long as the 4 player matches stay under 25 mins, I don’t care if they are getting Final battle every game. Haha.
I don't think the Khan shot is supposed to be a gimme,since it starts all the modes and the final battle an automatic Khan makes the saucer kind of redundant other than for the extra ball .
Keep the 2 hardest shots as designed and just play better! Haha
If you have the upper flipper angled upwards does it interfere with the right orbit shot?
Quoted from pinballjj:I don't think the Khan shot is supposed to be a gimme
Agreed. Glad mine is easier than others though. Games more fun this way IMO.
Quoted from pinballjj:don't think the Khan shot is supposed to be a gimme,since it starts all the modes and the final battle an automatic Khan makes the saucer kind of redundant other than for the extra ball .
Keep the 2 hardest shots as designed and just play better! Haha
I totally agree! (For me personally). But whatever people want/need to do to get the most out of a game, is what they should do. Physical adjustments and especially software adjustments (thats why they're there) can really make a game shine for a specific play style, skill level, etc.
Personally, Ive had my game on no extra balls for as long as I can remember and it suits me perfectly. But Final Battle is too good for people to NOT see it (with some solid play of course).
6 years, and I've never seen Final battle.
I have great average games.
I just suck. So I love the game!
Trust me. My game is plenty hard even with EBs on. Outlanes wide open, no rubber, tight tilt, steep, sensitive slings. Very hard to get final battle even with my gimmie saucers. Haha
Quoted from shaub:I totally agree! (For me personally). But whatever people want/need to do to get the most out of a game, is what they should do. Physical adjustments and especially software adjustments (thats why they're there) can really make a game shine for a specific play style, skill level, etc.
Personally, Ive had my game on no extra balls for as long as I can remember and it suits me perfectly. But Final Battle is too good for people to NOT see it (with some solid play of course).
By all means everyone should set up there games so it is fun for them,that's what the adjustments are for right?
I don't know if chuckwurt is kidding on how he has the shadow settings but I would maybe ease back on the other parts that make it more difficult and keep the khan a shot ,it's great when you hit it! THUNK!!
Quoted from pinballjj:no rubbers where the double rings on the outlanes are ?
Correct.
5A7EACA6-459E-409C-B21C-C3CFB0865027 (resized).jpeg
Melbourne
Quoted from pinballjj:no rubbers where the double rings on the outlanes are ? man that must be crazy tough and a special kind of " fun" , you sir are badass
Quoted from chuckwurt:Correct. [quoted image]
Guess you save on replacing rubbers 
Got to the final battle today for just the second time, but this time I barely made half the shots. The first time I completed the last shot with 1 second left. The Shadow has the perfect level of difficulty and complexity for me. Such a great pin.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Got to the final battle today for just the second time, but this time I barely made half the shots. The first time I completed the last shot with 1 second left. The Shadow has the perfect level of difficulty and complexity for me. Such a great pin.
Yep, it's difficult, so it lasts in a collection. This isn't a "Scared Stiff" that you can get to wizard mode once or twice out of every 10 games.
Quoted from jonesjb:Yep, it's difficult, so it lasts in a collection. This isn't a "Scared Stiff" that you can get to wizard mode once or twice out of every 10 games.
Agreed, the stiff-o-meter isn’t too difficult to reach, but the final wizard mode on SS, Spider Mania, fewer people have ever seen. That’s when you collect all 16 spider awards. Very tough to finish.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Got to the final battle today for just the second time, but this time I barely made half the shots. The first time I completed the last shot with 1 second left
I just got into the final battle tonight as well. I saw I was down to two shots and two balls, kept hitting the lit arrows…looked up and still two shots to go. I’m like…what do I need to hit. Then realized I needed to move my phurbas! Fortunately got them moved and hit the shots. I was not expecting what happened once khan defeated…
This is a great game. I still need to dial mine in a bit as I just picked it up in the last month or so, then got distracted by arrival of Mando. But yeah, hard to see this game departing then collection!
Quoted from TFK:Have you guys seen our colored ramp covers. 6 colors to choose from. Shadow is my favorite pin
ColorGuardProtectors.com
[quoted image]
They are $12.95 for a set of 2, correct? When ordering it asks for quantity. I wanted to be sure. Thanks!
Quoted from Pinkitten:Agreed, the stiff-o-meter isn’t too difficult to reach, but the final wizard mode on SS, Spider Mania, fewer people have ever seen. That’s when you collect all 16 spider awards. Very tough to finish.
And also zero fun to even attempt.
Quoted from Pinkitten:They are $12.95 for a set of 2, correct? When ordering it asks for quantity. I wanted to be sure. Thanks!
Yes it is for 2 and they will go out in the morning
Thanks
Quoted from Pinkitten:I think SS is a really fun pin.
Yeah I’m in the minority, but there are very few DMDs I enjoy less than SS.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Yeah I’m in the minority, but there are very few DMDs I enjoy less than SS.
That’s fair, and why pinball is different for everyone. People love DP, and it just wasn’t for me. But I’ll never sell my SS. I love the ramps and the simplicity. Others I’m sure don’t care for it. To each their own!
Quoted from chuckwurt:And also zero fun to even attempt.
And mostly based on luck.
I'm having a problem with my Shadow, it won't turn on. I'm hoping someone may be able to help me fix this issue. For reference, it started with a Distorted Color DMD and when I tried reseating the cables, a fuse blew. I replaced the fuse, but to no avail. Here's what happened...
My DMD was glitching like this: IMG_5338 (resized).JPG
I then saw on another thread that reseating these four spots might fix the issue. I did this: DMD (resized).png
When I turned the pin back on Fuse 112 on the WPC Power Driver Assembly (7A Slow Burn) popped. I then replaced it and tried turning back on. It stayed off.
But right now, I'd like to at least get my Shadow to turn on. Is there anywhere in particular I should start, I'm at a bit of a loss. If anyone could help, I'd be very grateful.
Quoted from jonesjb:I'm having a problem with my Shadow, it won't turn on. I'm hoping someone may be able to help me fix this issue. For reference, it started with a Distorted Color DMD and when I tried reseating the cables, a fuse blew. I replaced the fuse, but to no avail. Here's what happened...
My DMD was glitching like this: [quoted image]
I then saw on another thread that reseating these four spots might fix the issue. I did this: [quoted image]
When I turned the pin back on Fuse 112 on the WPC Power Driver Assembly (7A Slow Burn) popped. I then replaced it and tried turning back on. It stayed off.
[quoted image]
But right now, I'd like to at least get my Shadow to turn on. Is there anywhere in particular I should start, I'm at a bit of a loss. If anyone could help, I'd be very grateful.
Where does the other end of that connector come from?
Quoted from epeabs:That doesn't need to be plugged in with color DMD. My bad.
That was what I thought may have been the issue (but looked into it, and I removed it as per instructions).
Coincidentally, nicoga3000 seemed to have had this EXACT issue, and replacing the Universal Power Interface Fuse fixed it. I'm hoping this may be my solution. I now have to figure out how to get in the interface assembly and hope this works.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-universal-power-interface-fuse
Quoted from jonesjb:That was what I thought may have been the issue (but looked into it, and I removed it as per instructions).
Coincidentally, nicoga3000 seemed to have had this EXACT issue, and replacing the Universal Power Interface Fuse fixed it. I'm hoping this may be my solution. I now have to figure out how to get in the interface assembly and hope this works.
Twist the fuse holder counterclockwise and remove. Replace fuse and reinstall. Easy peasy. Hope its that simple.
Quoted from jonesjb:I'm having a problem with my Shadow, it won't turn on. I'm hoping someone may be able to help me fix this issue. For reference, it started with a Distorted Color DMD and when I tried reseating the cables, a fuse blew. I replaced the fuse, but to no avail. Here's what happened...
My DMD was glitching like this: [quoted image]
I then saw on another thread that reseating these four spots might fix the issue. I did this: [quoted image]
When I turned the pin back on Fuse 112 on the WPC Power Driver Assembly (7A Slow Burn) popped. I then replaced it and tried turning back on. It stayed off.
[quoted image]
But right now, I'd like to at least get my Shadow to turn on. Is there anywhere in particular I should start, I'm at a bit of a loss. If anyone could help, I'd be very grateful.
When you reseated the ribbon cable, was the machine on?
Double check each of the ribbon connectors aren't off to one side (as the connectors aren't keyed like the IDC connectors)
Garbled DMD could be a few things - there are 2 ribbon cables (the command & address ribbon is the one you reseated while the other is used to load the images from the game ROM to the DMD controllers RAM chip), it's worthwhile to reseat both these and if suspect trying using a spare set or one off another game); sometimes dodgy RAM chip can cause issues.
Let us know how you get on
Quoted from epeabs:Twist the fuse holder counterclockwise and remove. Replace fuse and reinstall. Easy peasy. Hope its that simple.
I tried twisting it, but it won't budge... I thought this might not be the right approach so didn't want to force it. But this is the way? I guess I'd just need to add a bit more torque?
Quoted from Manny65:When you reseated the ribbon cable, was the machine on?
Double check each of the ribbon connectors aren't off to one side (as the connectors aren't keyed like the IDC connectors)
Garbled DMD could be a few things - there are 2 ribbon cables (the command & address ribbon is the one you reseated while the other is used to load the images from the game ROM to the DMD controllers RAM chip), it's worthwhile to reseat both these and if suspect trying using a spare set or one off another game); sometimes dodgy RAM chip can cause issues.
Confirming I did turn the machine off. I'll try reseating the cables. It's possible it may have been off to the side (but I reseated again, and it's definitely correct now). I'm going to see what I can do to open the power fuse then replace, and then hopefully I can get the DMD sorted.
Thanks for trying to help!
Quoted from epeabs:Try pushing down when trying to loosen counterclockwise. (not trying to be an ass)
Thank you, I’ll give that a try (I wasn’t before)… I never replaced one of these before so appreciate any advice I can get!
Quoted from jonesjb:Thank you, I’ll give that a try (I wasn’t before)… I never replaced one of these before so appreciate any advice I can get!
How'd ya get on? The main inline power fuse can be a bit tight (probably never changed since installed) but as epeabs said a bit of downward pressure (as the fuse cap has a spring on it) while turning anti-clockwise should do the trick.
Yep get the machine sorted first and can then look at addressing the DMD issue - sometimes people will install the ribbon cable connectors the wrong way around (the red stripe on the ribbon denotes pin1) on some of the boards but given you were simply reseating the connectors I doubt that you inadvertently connected them incorrectly but worth noting.
Quoted from Manny65:How'd ya get on? The main inline power fuse can be a bit tight (probably never changed since installed) but as epeabs said a bit of downward pressure (as the fuse cap has a spring on it) while turning anti-clockwise should do the trick.
Yep get the machine sorted first and can then look at addressing the DMD issue - sometimes people will install the ribbon cable connectors the wrong way around (the red stripe on the ribbon denotes pin1) on some of the boards but given you were simply reseating the connectors I doubt that you inadvertently connected them incorrectly but worth noting.
Was after midnight, so decided do defer to today (Monday), I went in (pushing down), and was able to release. Looks like we are on the right track.
I'll update once I've replaced the fuse.
So I updated the fuse, turned the pin on, it turned on for a second and it immediately blew again. Hmmm, back to the drawing board on what could be causing the main fuse to blow.
Also confirming that I didn't change any of the orientations on the ribbons.
Would it be related to the DMD controller board? And would replacing with this likely fix?
Shadow just took a Dump, F116 low 12v pin(7v) but the 5v pin is good. I’m using a ColorDMD splitter at F116. Which isn’t turning on due to low 12v. Ball trough sometimes ejecting all the balls as Power on to troubleshoot. I believe F116 is the reason as well. 4 Battlefield drops repeat reset even after they are in the up position. I tested
TP1 4
TP2 5
TP3 12
TP4 0.359
TP6 71
TP8 17
Any ideas?
Also the F116 fuse is glowing red as if is overheating.
Quoted from jonesjb:I'm having a problem with my Shadow, it won't turn on. I'm hoping someone may be able to help me fix this issue. For reference, it started with a Distorted Color DMD and when I tried reseating the cables, a fuse blew. I replaced the fuse, but to no avail. Here's what happened...
My DMD was glitching like this: [quoted image]
I then saw on another thread that reseating these four spots might fix the issue. I did this: [quoted image]
When I turned the pin back on Fuse 112 on the WPC Power Driver Assembly (7A Slow Burn) popped. I then replaced it and tried turning back on. It stayed off.
[quoted image]
But right now, I'd like to at least get my Shadow to turn on. Is there anywhere in particular I should start, I'm at a bit of a loss. If anyone could help, I'd be very grateful.
Check the ribbons, I reseated them and missed correct alignment. And now there’s hell to pay.
Quoted from jonesjb:So I updated the fuse, turned the pin on, it turned on for a second and it immediately blew again. Hmmm, back to the drawing board on what could be causing the main fuse to blow.
Also confirming that I didn't change any of the orientations on the ribbons.
Would it be related to the DMD controller board? And would replacing with this likely fix?
https://www.pinsound.org/products/dmdlux/
Is it working at all?
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