(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

10 years ago


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  • 10,915 posts
  • 754 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 32 hours ago by onemoresean
  • Topic is favorited by 276 Pinsiders

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There are 10,915 posts in this topic. You are on page 173 of 219.
#8601 2 years ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Can someone please post a picture of their j120 connector on the driver board for gi. Mines white burned up and the wiring colours don’t match the manual to repin from

Well mine's not pretty but it matches the manual (note that J120 specifically uses different pins to J121)

3 - Yellow
5 - Green
9 - White-yellow
10 - White-green

TS J120-J121 (resized).jpgTS J120-J121 (resized).jpg
#8602 2 years ago

Thanks. My 120 and 121 were swapped. All repinned and working.

#8603 2 years ago

I've had a strange electrical issue pop up on my Shadow in that the Mongol "G" target switch activates the sanctum wall every time it's hit (or just closed when testing). Not a mechanical issue as I originally thoroughly checked and cleaned the sanctum mech and the wall release coil is fine and wall drop is not subject to vibration. Also replaced the sanctum optos before I realized the "G" target was involved.

Looked at playfield underside wiring/connections - now looking at boards. Any recommendations?

#8604 2 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

I've had a strange electrical issue pop up on my Shadow in that the Mongol "G" target switch activates the sanctum wall every time it's hit (or just closed when testing). Not a mechanical issue as I originally thoroughly checked and cleaned the sanctum mech and the wall drop coil is fine and wall drop is not subject to vibration. Also replaced the sanctum optos before I realized the "G" target was involved.
Looked at playfield underside wiring/connections - now looking at boards. Any recommendations?

Check the diodes in the switches on that column (both problem switches share the same column). You might have a bad one or something is touching something it shouldn’t be.

#8605 2 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Check the diodes on the switches in that column (both problem switches share the same column). You might have a bad one or something is touching something it should be.

#8606 2 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

I've had a strange electrical issue pop up on my Shadow in that the Mongol "G" target switch activates the sanctum wall every time it's hit (or just closed when testing). Not a mechanical issue as I originally thoroughly checked and cleaned the sanctum mech and the wall release coil is fine and wall drop is not subject to vibration. Also replaced the sanctum optos before I realized the "G" target was involved.
Looked at playfield underside wiring/connections - now looking at boards. Any recommendations?

Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Check the diodes in the switches on that column (both problem switches share the same column). You might have a bad one or something is touching something it shouldn’t be.

While the Wall Target Down (sw#51) is on the same column as Mongol "G" (sw#53), the Sanctum (opto sw#33) is on the same row as "G" and more likely that it is being triggered and causing the wall to drop. Go into switch test mode and test all your switches looking for multiple switches being triggered (this will be shown on the matrix display on the DMD). Here's some info on shorted switch diodes that might help

Shorted diode (resized).JPGShorted diode (resized).JPG
#8607 2 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Check the diodes in the switches on that column (both problem switches share the same column). You might have a bad one or something is touching something it shouldn’t be.

Quoted from Manny65:

While the Wall Target Down (sw#51) is on the same column as Mongol "G" (sw#53), the Sanctum (opto sw#33) is on the same row as "G" and more likely that it is being triggered and causing the wall to drop. Go into switch test mode and test all your switches looking for multiple switches being triggered (this will be shown on the matrix display on the DMD). Here's some info on shorted switch diodes that might help[quoted image]

Thanks!

Added over 3 years ago:

UPDATE - Problem SOLVED:

Turned out the "G" target switch's white wire was soldered to the wrong lead of the two the diode is connected to (therefore was on wrong end of the diode).

Thanks again!

#8608 2 years ago

I had these wood grips made for the pistol. I am really happy with how they turned out. Love this game!

02259C42-4F3D-4EBB-BE62-72CAA628F80C (resized).jpeg02259C42-4F3D-4EBB-BE62-72CAA628F80C (resized).jpeg45BE389D-37C7-4B77-B334-7F5C222B55E1 (resized).jpeg45BE389D-37C7-4B77-B334-7F5C222B55E1 (resized).jpeg
#8609 2 years ago
Quoted from SNES:

I had these wood grips made for the pistol. I am really happy with how they turned out. Love this game!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Where did you have the grips made?

#8610 2 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Where did you have the grips made?

My brother in law works for a shop that does custom work so I had him scan the original pieces and cut them out for me.

#8611 2 years ago
Quoted from SNES:

I had these wood grips made for the pistol. I am really happy with how they turned out. Love this game!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yep - wood grips are the way to go on Shadow! This game is truly all about the "feel".

In every way it is sensed!

20210703_201410 (resized).jpg20210703_201410 (resized).jpg

20210703_204416 (resized).jpg20210703_204416 (resized).jpg

#8612 2 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Yep - wood grips are the way to go on Shadow! This game is truly all about the "feel".
In every way it is sensed!

[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Agree! Here's mine with 1931 liberty dime.

IMG_5131 (resized).JPGIMG_5131 (resized).JPG
#8613 2 years ago

Question.... I've noticed that on the left ramp, right pathway, a very fast ball will fly off the ramp along the horizontal part (derailing towards the upper playfield). Can anyone recommend a fix? I'm not sure if it's getting lift from the switch, or I need to bend the wireform?

#8614 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Question.... I've noticed that on the left ramp, right pathway, a very fast ball will fly off the ramp along the horizontal part (derailing towards the upper playfield). Can anyone recommend a fix? I'm not sure if it's getting lift from the switch, or I need to bend the wireform?

Are you using the Mantis ramps or the originals? I thought I read a post that the Mantis sit at a slightly different angle but unsure if that was specific to that particular machine. I assume your PF is level side-to-side? You could try taking a slow-motion video of the shot to help determine where/why the ball is going off the rail.

#8615 2 years ago

Having an intermittent problem on my battlefield single drop target hopefully fellow owners can help me out with. Replaced the small coil and the switch little over a year ago and the problem stopped but is starting to pop back up again. Coil to drop target fires fine sometimes and just pulses other times.

Here is a link to my thread which has a short video at the end

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-single-drop-error#post-6367010

#8616 2 years ago

I found the link craftsman that seems to have made a couple of the ones above, but it doesn't appear to be available anymore. Is anyone still making / selling the wood grips?

#8617 2 years ago
Quoted from PunkPin:

Having an intermittent problem on my battlefield single drop target hopefully fellow owners can help me out with. Replaced the small coil and the switch little over a year ago and the problem stopped but is starting to pop back up again. Coil to drop target fires fine sometimes and just pulses other times.

Here is a link to my thread which has a short video at the end

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-single-drop-error#post-6367010

Not sure what you've done so far but are the wires solidly attached to the coil? I feel like Ive had the issue happen when a wire was hanging on by a couple threads. The other issue with a proper connection could be at the connector, not sure which connector though off hand.

#8618 2 years ago
Quoted from PunkPin:

Having an intermittent problem on my battlefield single drop target hopefully fellow owners can help me out with. Replaced the small coil and the switch little over a year ago and the problem stopped but is starting to pop back up again. Coil to drop target fires fine sometimes and just pulses other times.

Here is a link to my thread which has a short video at the end

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-single-drop-error#post-6367010

I decided to check the manual and it looks like the Single Drop Down coil is J907-8,9 (apparently shared with the magnet, red-gry) and J902-1 (org-gry). J9XX is the fliptronics2 board. I'd make sure that the 1st pin on the J902 connector is properly seated in the IDC connector.

The other thing to consider is that the red-gry wire (shared by both the drop down coil and the magnet) should be daisy chained between the two coils as well so wherever that happens (at the magnet maybe?), make sure that connection is solid as well otherwise the power may only be intermittent.

If I had this issue, that would be my troubleshooting process. I can not confirm that I know what I am talking about.

Side note: Interestingly (at least to me), it appears Shadow uses the "Upper Left Flipper" circuitry on the Fliptronic board to run the high powered Magnet using Flipper High Power and low powered drop target down coil using the Flipper Hold Power.

#8619 2 years ago

I have received a few PMs over the last couple weeks if the wood grips were still available.
At this time, Im sorry, they arent.

They arent too hard to make, and perhaps someone will pickup the demand

Robert Yarger my friend that made them is unfortunately, too busy.
Here is he latest work with Chris, and for Chris Ramsey released today!

Those of you that have the ones I offered should remember Roberts stamp is on the inside, and a collectable from the puzzle hobby,
as one of the best artists in the world!

If someone is good at woodworking, and wants to make, the sales demand was around 30 pairs a year,

#8620 2 years ago
Quoted from shaub:

I decided to check the manual and it looks like the Single Drop Down coil is J907-8,9 (apparently shared with the magnet, red-gry) and J902-1 (org-gry). J9XX is the fliptronics2 board. I'd make sure that the 1st pin on the J902 connector is properly seated in the IDC connector.
The other thing to consider is that the red-gry wire (shared by both the drop down coil and the magnet) should be daisy chained between the two coils as well so wherever that happens (at the magnet maybe?), make sure that connection is solid as well otherwise the power may only be intermittent.
If I had this issue, that would be my troubleshooting process. I can not confirm that I know what I am talking about.
Side note: Interestingly (at least to me), it appears Shadow uses the "Upper Left Flipper" circuitry on the Fliptronic board to run the high powered Magnet using Flipper High Power and low powered drop target down coil using the Flipper Hold Power.

Thanks for the reply, all the solder points are good on the coil. Checked J907 and J902 on the fliptronics board and they seem to be in good shape as well.

Traced the red and gray wire to the magnet (they meet at a molex connection by the drop coil) and also back up through the wire loom and didn't notice any issues.. going to disconnect the magnet and see if it makes a difference in the coil.

Power doesn't seem to be intermittent but pulses instead of dropping the coil sometimes

Here is a link to the video again while in test, coil fires the first time then just pulses the next two times
https://www.instagram.com/p/CQr8w43lBCU/?utm_medium=share_sheet

#8621 2 years ago

I've thought about adding Shadow to my collection for a while and have the opportunity to pick one up in the near future.

I am curious though, what current owners think on lastability in the home? From a gameplay standpoint, I like the uniqueness of the layout.

I would be curious, though, how owners would compare gameplay and lastability to modern games, specifically Stranger Things pro, Guardians pro, or something like Ironman?

Any insight or thoughts are greatly appreciated

#8622 2 years ago

The optos for the battlefield kicker stopped working( kicker autofiring, no response with switch edge test) voltage on transmitter .9 v, on receiver say 11.8v with no change with beam blocked, replaced both now kicker works fine but i checked voltages again transmitter 1.2v receiver 12v goes down to 10v when beam blocked. per manual receiver should go to 0v when blocked.

glad it is working but if there something with the opto board i should check or replace?

#8623 2 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

... I would be curious, though, how owners would compare gameplay and lastability to modern games, specifically Stranger Things pro, Guardians pro, or something like Ironman?

While not as deep code-wise as most modern games, Shadow has enough cool and unique features (such as its theme, ball launch gun, dual ramps w/ diverters, sanctum wall/magnet ball lock, paddle-action upper playfield, etc.) to keep it interesting in a larger collection for a long time.

Just like any other game though, if you are playing it a lot (in a smaller collection) and don't really LOVE its vibe, you're probably going to want to replace it with something new sooner.

Regardless, I'd definitely recommend buying one and experiencing what it has to offer! I personally prefer its gameplay over Brian Eddy's other Bally/Williams games - MM and AFM.

#8624 2 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

While not as deep code-wise as most modern games, Shadow has enough cool and unique features (such as its theme, ball launch gun, dual ramps w/ diverters, sanctum wall/magnet ball lock, paddle-action upper playfield, etc.) to keep it interesting in a larger collection for a long time.
Just like any other game though, if you are playing it a lot (in a smaller collection) and don't really LOVE its vibe, you're probably going to want to replace it with something new sooner.
Regardless, I'd definitely recommend buying one and experiencing what it has to offer! I personally prefer its gameplay over Brian Eddy's other Bally/Williams games - MM and AFM.

This. And I don't think there is another pin that has more unique toys in it (Maybe pinball magic). I've had my Shadow for over 5 years, and I still haven't sold.

#8625 2 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

I've thought about adding Shadow to my collection for a while and have the opportunity to pick one up in the near future.
I am curious though, what current owners think on lastability in the home? From a gameplay standpoint, I like the uniqueness of the layout.
I would be curious, though, how owners would compare gameplay and lastability to modern games, specifically Stranger Things pro, Guardians pro, or something like Ironman?
Any insight or thoughts are greatly appreciated

I bought mine in a package deal for three pins and I had never played it. Was planning to sell Shadow to pay for the lot, but after playing it I knew it was a keeper for me. I modded mine a bit and honestly don’t think I will ever sell it (at least not anytime soon). Code is definitely not as deep as modern Sterns but it is a great shooter with a ton of unique and cool features. The ball lock is one of my favorites in pinball.

#8626 2 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

I've thought about adding Shadow to my collection for a while and have the opportunity to pick one up in the near future.
I am curious though, what current owners think on lastability in the home? From a gameplay standpoint, I like the uniqueness of the layout.
I would be curious, though, how owners would compare gameplay and lastability to modern games, specifically Stranger Things pro, Guardians pro, or something like Ironman?
Any insight or thoughts are greatly appreciated

I agree with all the above comments - over time Shadow still remains my favourite go to machine

#8627 2 years ago

Was the original finish on the shooter gun handle textured at all or smooth? Mine is textured everywhere but under the gun grips. I expect that it’s the chrome over time wearing from hand sweat etc. trying to decide what to do to refinish it. I think it’ll need sand blasting.

#8628 2 years ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Was the original finish on the shooter gun handle textured at all or smooth? Mine is textured everywhere but under the gun grips. I expect that it’s the chrome over time wearing from hand sweat etc. trying to decide what to do to refinish it. I think it’ll need sand blasting.

The factory plating was 2nd. rate at best. Years of handling it broke it down to a powdery finish. Once the outer layer goes, the base plating gets rough and just plain ugly.

I'm a fan of nickel plating (black chrome) for the gun halves - brings out the beauty in it and will last forever. Then, hard chrome plating for the trigger gives it a nice touch.

blackchrome_shadow_gun (resized).jpgblackchrome_shadow_gun (resized).jpg

#8629 2 years ago

I recently tested the illuminated window mod that pinballjj created to compliment my cityscape decal... And it complements perfectly. I have it synced with the battlefield flasher and it really creates a striking effect, Sanctum multiball starts with an even more impressive crescendo.

Check this out! (you can see it activate at the 11 second mark):

#8630 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I recently tested the illuminated window mod that pinballjj created to compliment my cityscape decal... And it complements perfectly. I have it synced with the battlefield flasher and it really creates a striking effect, Sanctum multiball starts with an even more impressive crescendo.
Check this out! (you can see it activate at the 11 second mark):

Is that city shape decal or the brick that I've seen on some still available as a mod?

#8631 2 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Is that city shape decal or the brick that I've seen on some still available as a mod?

You can use standard model railroad brick if you want that look. That's what I have.
City decal probably looks better, but brick is way better than just black.

#8632 2 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Is that city shape decal or the brick that I've seen on some still available as a mod?

That is the cityscape decal, with a clear plastic overlay with engravings where the windows are, which illuminates when the flash goes off.

#8633 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

That is the cityscape decal, with a clear plastic overlay with engravings where the windows are, which illuminates when the flash goes off.

I know. It looks good. I was just wondering if you can still buy the decal if you have a game with nothing back there?

#8634 2 years ago

The decal is one I produced and made available to a number of Pinsiders to buy a year or so back. I don't have any more in stock, but will be doing a reprinting later this month. So to your question, yes a decal will be available.

#8635 2 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

I've thought about adding Shadow to my collection for a while and have the opportunity to pick one up in the near future.
I am curious though, what current owners think on lastability in the home? From a gameplay standpoint, I like the uniqueness of the layout.
I would be curious, though, how owners would compare gameplay and lastability to modern games, specifically Stranger Things pro, Guardians pro, or something like Ironman?
Any insight or thoughts are greatly appreciated

If you enjoy 90’s era Bally/Williams pins, The Shadow is among the best. For years it was a sleeper bargain too, one of the best bang-for-your-buck pins around. The secret is pretty much out on it now, and an above-average example will cost ya. I’ve owned mine twice. I sold it once and missed it, bought it back from a friend. This time it will stay. It’s not especially deep, with 6 modes, the upper playfield and 2 multiball modes to complete to start the final battle wizard mode. But I’ve only reached the end once, and that was a game where everything went right. It’s not an easy pin to finish. The shots are unique, the ball lock is one of the best and the upper pf is a challenge. For me, this game has more to offer than some recent releases.

#8636 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

The optos for the battlefield kicker stopped working( kicker autofiring, no response with switch edge test) voltage on transmitter .9 v, on receiver say 11.8v with no change with beam blocked, replaced both now kicker works fine but i checked voltages again transmitter 1.2v receiver 12v goes down to 10v when beam blocked. per manual receiver should go to 0v when blocked.
glad it is working but if there something with the opto board i should check or replace?

Test them using Switch tests, check cold solder on board

#8637 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

It’s not especially deep, with 6 modes, the upper playfield and 2 multiball modes to complete to start the final battle wizard mode. But I’ve only reached the end once, and that was a game where everything went right. It’s not an easy pin to finish. The shots are unique, the ball lock is one of the best and the upper pf is a challenge. For me, this game has more to offer than some recent releases.

It's also a very balanced game, score wise... With multiple ways to approach the game (and add diversity to gameplay)... One time I'm focusing on getting through as many modes, or finishing fewer modes, or going for mutiballs, or completing the upper playfield and extra balls, or Vengeance. There are some cool tricks/easter eggs too... Like the plant-a-ball-in-the-saucer to multiply jackpots, or the secret laughing mode, the various ways the gun can be used in gameplay, or the shot to the Sanctum off the upper flipper.

#8638 2 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

I am curious though, what current owners think on lastability in the home? From a gameplay standpoint, I like the uniqueness of the layout.
I would be curious, though, how owners would compare gameplay and lastability to modern games, specifically Stranger Things pro, Guardians pro, or something like Ironman?

It’s on par or better than all those games. This is the best 90s game imo. Buy this game without hesitation.

#8639 2 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

The factory plating was 2nd. rate at best. Years of handling it broke it down to a powdery finish. Once the outer layer goes, the base plating gets rough and just plain ugly.
I'm a fan of nickel plating (black chrome) for the gun halves - brings out the beauty in it and will last forever. Then, hard chrome plating for the trigger gives it a nice touch.
[quoted image]

Who can do this black chrome nickel plating? Looks amazing.

#8640 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:There are some cool tricks/easter eggs too... Like the plant-a-ball-in-the-saucer to multiply jackpots, or the secret laughing mode, the various ways the gun can be used in gameplay, or the shot to the Sanctum off the upper flipper.

I've not tried hitting the Sanctum from the upper flipper - I'll have to try that one (thanks for the tip).

The shot I like (when extra ball is lit), is deflecting the eject from the Khan saucer off the upper flipper and into the start mode saucer to collect the extra ball - I don't get it often but it is doable.

#8641 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Who can do this black chrome nickel plating? Looks amazing.

Used to be a forum member who specialized in this. He's gone now, but try > https://speedsportchrome.com/

I used this company for other plated items, and they do great work.

#8642 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

The decal is one I produced and made available to a number of Pinsiders to buy a year or so back. I don't have any more in stock, but will be doing a reprinting later this month. So to your question, yes a decal will be available.

Ok, thanks! I don't own one yet but am considering it and hope I can join the club soon. Will let you know.

#8643 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Who can do this black chrome nickel plating? Looks amazing.

Chris at Hot Rod Arcade does black nickel (www.pinballplating.com)

#8644 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

That is the cityscape decal, with a clear plastic overlay with engravings where the windows are, which illuminates when the flash goes off.

Really? I can barely tell from that video. Cool in person I bet.

#8645 2 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I've not tried hitting the Sanctum from the upper flipper - I'll have to try that one (thanks for the tip).

Yes, it's off the rubber below the Kahn shot... It's geometrically angled to bounce to the Lock.... Not at all obvious but clever design.

#8646 2 years ago

Joining the club. Unfortunately it's still some work until I can play it

Lost of dirt and rusted ramps. Nothing that can't be fixed, but still lots of work. Playfield however is almost perfect (with minimal wear at the Sanctum).

IMG_4746 (resized).JPEGIMG_4746 (resized).JPEG
#8647 2 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Is that city shape decal or the brick that I've seen on some still available as a mod?

I sell a more basic version of the decal. It doesn't have nearly the amount of work into it that JBJones put into his, but it is cheaper! It sits in the back in a darker area, so you probably wont know the difference anyways. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1180-slap-save-creations/02484-the-shadow-backboard-decal

#8648 2 years ago

Yesterday i went on a roadtrip to get my shadow. On the same day when i got home i got a message that aurich sent me the translite. Like it was ment to be, i'm a happy guy at the moment. Shadow is ok, can't play at the moment because the diverters are so messed up, nothing i hope i can't handle. Shadow needs a lot of love. Seriously cleaned the translite and the first thing that crossed my mind was , it isn't that bad to deserve all the hate. If it was on another machine it could've worked out. I think the playfield on the shadow is about the most beautifull i have seen and that why is it so out of place. Anyway UPS please run towards my shadow, happy to be in the club !

#8649 2 years ago

Does anyone know where I can get the latest game code ROM that includes the patch for LED ghosting?

#8650 2 years ago

Removed the diverters. Mechanism is bend but i can fix that. The lower left has a white post , this doesn't make sence as it isn't long enough to reach the hole on the ramp. The right diverter doesn't have a white post but has some rings which don't seem to be doing anything and was extremely wobbly. What is the proper way to install these ? Am i missing some parts ?

thumbnail_image0 (1) (resized).jpgthumbnail_image0 (1) (resized).jpg
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