It’s a piece of ugly unfinished wood underneath. You’ll definitely need some kind of speaker panel.

The wood under the speaker panel doesn’t look great, the speakers themselves also look unfinished without the panel. If you’re looking for something more plain that goes with your translite, maybe try the whitewater speaker panel? I was thinking of doing this at one point. It’s pretty basic and understated

That’s a surprisingly good idea. Is anyone repro-ing those??

You know if it didn’t have all the little heads on it I would quite like the Shadow speaker panel.

You should be able to find them, the ministry of pinball has them and there’s a ton on ebay

Is anyone running a rotten dog wpc driver board? Any issues? Trying to figure out whether to get this or the ones from pinball basement as I need to replace the board

I have one on my game. It works well, only had an issue with one transistor that needed to be replaced. But it was because the guy before me soldered the wires to the sanctum drop target backwards causing the transistor to blow.

I also have the rottendog driver board and have had no issues.

I have one in my TOM, works as expected.

Does anyone know if the speaker panel of a Who Dunnit would fit the shadow ? It's black with golden Bally logo.

speaker panel bally (resized).JPG

The Who Dunnit one is different, it’s a flat plastic that looks like this one. This is more like an AFM one, and you could probably make it work with some modification but it wouldn’t be drop in. Also, they’re kinda ugly IMO. I guess it would give your Shadow that WPC 95 style but I far preferred the earlier speaker panels with art on them.

Yeah with the roundings not very nice. Problem is the blue panel doesn’t fit with my translite (see previous post) was going to add the phurba stickers.

Have red/Blue LED's on my transparant flipper buttons (already installed when bought)

These are 12V but left side isn't working anymore. The used boards are no longer sold, so I'll have to switch to 6.3V wedge with 2cm flexible wire LED's.

What's the best point to pickup 6.3V/GND near the left flipper buttons ?

I have done lit flipper buttons on several games taking power from the coin slot lights. I think that includes The Shadow.
As usual, Vid shows how:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-lighted-flipper-buttons-for-418

Thx good info !

Anyone have a lead on some used Shadow wire forms? Need the small one that goes up to the battlefield. Finders fee paid if you can help out! Also listed in the wanted section.

Thanks!

LEDs on flipper buttons up and runing, left GI 6.3V and right 12V with LED PCB's.

Also installed color PIN2DMD !! Very good investment !

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Installing replacement battlefield bracket that broke with new mantis. Working on reassembly and the coil for the paddle keeps locking on. I didn’t disconnect the coil and visual inspection I don’t see any broken wires or loose solders. Any suggestions on where to look next?

Possibly a shorted transistor - Q46 TIP-102

Check out this link which gives you a great description of how the coils and flashers work on a WPC machine https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Solenoid.2C_Flasher.2C_and_Motor_problems. Jump to https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Coil_Locks_On for testing your transistors

TS MinPF Kicker (resized).JPG

Joined the club this week. Currently waiting for the game to make its way across the country in shipping. Game has some issues but will be a great base for a big clean up and pseudo restore.

Hope Aurich doesn’t mind me posting this, but he is making another run of his awesome translites. If you are interested I suggest visiting this thread and signing up. This will be the icing on my restoration. Can’t wait!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aurich-s-shadow-translite-final-run-last-call/page/6#post-6331790

I’m currently restoring my shadow. Does anyone know where I can obtain or print a copy of the tech chart that goes in the bottom cabinet? Maybe a close up pic from someone? Thank you in advance.

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You can find most (if not all) charts and labels on Inkochnito website http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/ - free to download but you can donate

Bally_The_Shadow_Tech_Chart.pdf

Thank you!

Machine arrived today. Overall good nick, will clean up well. Very dirty as expected. The sanctum target lower switch isn't registering; here's hoping its one of the easy fixes and not an entirely broken mech. Investigation to commence later today or tomorrow post work.

There's only a single switch on the extended wall target. Could simply be be a switch adjust but otherwise the arm that raises the wall and the coil armature are known to wear which can cause enough slop in the mech that the switch doesn't detect the correct target position.

Pulled apart the mech tonight. Was covered in grease at the pivots. Switch adjusted and registers when the target is in the down position, opto for sanctum is also registering. Machine is complaining that the wall target is bad but that doesn’t make sense to me as the switch is open with the target up and loses with it closed now. I’ve read all I can find on the mech and it all seems like it should be right for me

CA36340B-5B29-4D87-9E0A-37BA60471198 (resized).jpeg

Did you check that the switch works in switch test and that the coil works in coil test?

Yes switch works in switch edge test and both coils fire in coil test mode.

I had a very similar sounding issue and the switch just needed to be adjusted. I suggest to check over the switch really well to make sure it is in the right spot when the wall target comes down. Mine was getting caught up a little bit so it wasn’t registering. Quick adjustment and it was good to go. Might not be your pro Alex, but a quick and easy one to try.

Anywhere i can buy a nice alternate translite?, any suggestions

How does it work in-game? Are you able to go through the locking, requalify lock etc, and start MB properly?

Aurich is planning another run , i would pm him

In game. Doesn’t drop the target, doesn’t turn on the magnet to grab, but will do so when in test

Update: all now working after powering on the machine this morning. Perhaps switch moved a little to now be reliable, unsure as it made it tight.

I would suspect the opto in the Sanctum is flaky. If it continues to happen intermittently, I would replace that opto.

Also - there’s an opto PCB near the flippers - I would make sure all of those connections are seated well (and perhaps check for cracked solder pins).

Spoke too soon. Sanctum is not longer dripping in game or test. Lasted 30 or so games. Solenoid for the drop fires but target doesn’t drop. Maybe I didn’t clean it well enough or the opto is flakey. More investigation tomorrow along with the regular drop having issues resetting. Likely full of grease also. Addictive game from the games I’ve had so far

The spring (#22 in the diagram) should pull the target down when the hold coil retracts it's plunger (#7)

TS Extended Target 1 (resized).JPG

Drops all sorted. Drop solenoid spring got caught and want releasing. Onto more esoteric issues and discoveries in the machine.

Attract mode in the mini Playfield looks strange. Potential swapped connector. Edit: nope lighting board mounted the wrong way.

Also I have no ramp switch on the left ramp going right, it appears to have been moved over to the right where the ramp rejoins under the shooter ramp

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With the piece of the sanctum mech that is drawn in but the horizontal coil, to lower. That arm and it’s tip should be pinned together. I think what’s leading to my unreliable drop is the tip isn’t staying as part of the coil plunger when it retracts.

The ball has a tendency to jump the switch if in the normal spot, I've been meaning to move my switch over to that further spot or buy one of the fancy magnetic switches that somebody has been making for a couple years.

Im aware of the switch jumping issue if in the normal spot.id like to move it back and replace with a new MRS also. It just looks clunky on the right with a hacked plastic from what looks like a Pinbot. If anyone can give me a close up under the right flasher where the left ramp joins the right habitual that would be appreciated.

Sonic makes the MRS switch - it's actually installed on the right hand side on the PF where your switch has been moved to, although looks more elegant. Terry shows it installed on his machine https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/157#post-5999229

You know what I'd say! : )

Just shoot me a PM! Happy to help with your Shadow....

Matt

haha. yeah. I was about to buy one and then thought I might as well ask my buddy if he wants one too. but then I never did! haha.

Oh interesting. So the game basically "says": If combo is 30m dont add to combo value? But because that conditon is never precisely met, it just keeps rolling? very cool.

Is there an alternate part number for the gun handle bolt receiver piece? Perhaps one that is a different colour? I’ve looked at what Dirty Harry, batman forever seem to use in their handles and they appear dofferent. The original butt head fastener (02-5041-15g) seems to be unobtainable. What have others used as substitutes?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/156#post-5980133

When I had my gun powder coated I went through the same problems. I ended up painting the other side with black car paint and it looks fantastic. Plus you don’t touch these areas so no risk of chipping/scratching.

Can someone please post a picture of their j120 connector on the driver board for gi. Mines white burned up and the wiring colours don’t match the manual to repin from