Yep. Harder to trap on WPC. It’s normal.

Does anyone sell a Shadow silhouette speaker cover? Thanks.

How are your flippers aligned? WPC machines typically have small holes just below the flipper bat, place a toothpick in it and the back side of the flipper bat should be resting on it. That said I couldn't see the holes on my machine, so the other technique is to align the front face of the flipper with the return ball guide with a straight edge.

Another possibility would be that the flipper coil stop or plunger is the wrong one and it's changed the length of the plunger stroke - given you are planning to do a flipper rebuild this would correct this if it is the issue.

That's what I thought, however what is the actual angle meant to be?

One of the coils is wrong on one of the flippers, so maybe some of the other parts are wrong but the alignment looks correct and they travel the full length of the plunger stroke. I think they are as intended, but was just curious what the specific angles were meant to be since they are indeed harder to trap.

With the limited angle is seems that there aren't many shots that are back-handable from trap (or even the return lane). Maybe the left ramp, but it's very difficult. I assume this is normal? From reading the thread the right ramp is very difficult to back-hand on most machines.

I can’t think of a single shot in the game that can be backhanded from a trap.

Sorry I don’t know the specific, measured angle of my flippers. It’s just harder to trap on shadow than it is game of thrones or stranger things.

After I rebuilt my flippers, I can backhand the left ramp from the left flipper.

And before I rebuilt my flippers, I could occasionally backhand the mode start from the lower right flipper.

I guess...

People in here also think you cant post pass on shadow.

Play. Better.

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It’s definitely hard. Not a gimmie like most modern sterns.

Question about the battlefield on my shadow... I've read that light reflections mess with the optos for when the ball gets hit by the plunger. I tested with the glass off and it hit the ball perfectly each time. But with the glass on, it doesn't register properly all the time. Sometimes it will just sit on the plunger and not even get hit back. What solutions are there to help with this? I put invisiglass on, didn't help. I even tried covering the top and sides where the optos are with black tape as a temp solution, that didn't help either. Also tried a antireflection dmd guard, that didn't work either. So I'm kind of stuck at the moment.

Try cutting black heat shrink tubing. That's what I did and it worked.

I've heard of people using a straw between the opto and the bracket hole to help to stop this issue - I like jonesjb idea (and assume the heatshrink tube doesn't get that hot that it shrinks)

Don’t actually heat it though, just use it as a black straw.

OK great, I'll try that. Thanks so much for the suggestions! Really appreciate it.

Yep I was just thinking about the heat from the LED, but guess that is minimal and no where near what would be needed for the tubing to shrink

Took 6 months to bring this one back from the dead. I do believe it was very much worth it!! Got to play the first game 2 nights ago.

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good job on the resto! would love to see a closeup of your approach to the sanctum repair, the left ramp looks interesting, look like a hammered bronze finish?

Try removing about half the backbox LEDs. Will drastically cut down on light reflection. I have been through this before and it sucks. The only thing that ended up fixing mine was a repair kit bracket they issued back in the 90's. I bought the last one from Rick at Planetary about 7 years ago. You can look it up. I think there have been some guys make their own.

Oh yes that was a Service Bulletin - the kit was A-20424 which contained the bracket (01-14013) and 2 screws (4108-01004-06)

Buellxb12r - Marco has the bracket in stock https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-14013 which moves the left opto further back from the hole in the bracket, if you wanted to give it a try

That is it. I did not know someone remade them. This is the only thing that worked on that particular Shadow I owned. I have owned 2 others since and neither had this issue. I specifically remember it happened right after I put LEDs in the game so it is for sure a light reflection issue.

Thanks for looking it up and providing the link. I will definitely purchase the bracket and give that a shot.

You'll need a couple of these https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/bally-parts/4108-01004-06.html but more than likely you'll be able to pick up something similar at a local hardware store

Awesome job on a game very worthy of being restored. The Shadow rocks.

Some times I look at my line up, and I think: "Ya, I could sell Shadow and another and get a newer game."

Then I play it. This game is so fun. I am about 2 years in now? Still love it.

I have been playing a R&M lately, and the loop I thought would be similar. Not at all.

Shadow's loop is so smooth and it feels so good when you hit it. I am only on 3 in a row. Pathetic.

I think I heard yancy has a 7 loop streak on gweempose Shadow? Thats nuts.

I think I may have to go for streaks on my shadow some time. All loops, all battlefield, all vengeance or something. That might be fun to stream.

Same. I can loop R&Ms all day cause it barely makes it around most of the time. Haha.

Once you hit 3 fast ones in a row on shadow, I usually completely whiff the next one. Haha

Your loop on R&M is not adjusted correctly if it dribbles around. On my R&M, the 2nd loop is blazingly fast and is nearly impossible to hit a 3rd time without it being a complete fluke. My Shadow is the same; my best is about 3 I think also

Yes I hammer bronze finished all the pf metals and ramps. The sanctum wear issue??? someone previously poured clear epoxy over that area, scraped and sanded it down the best i could and installed a black decal over the area. Not my proudest moment, but not a lot of options, and didn't want to over sand and ruin any more of the area!!!

I don’t own Rick and Morty. Glad to hear they can be fixed though!

Love my Shadow and tend to play it more than a lot of my other A-List machines - it's also one of the cheapest machines I've bought. Over time my loop streak grew to 7 and the game made the extra ball at 8 - it was impossible (well for me at least). Batteries died back a bit and lost all my scores, but the best I can manage at the moment is 3 loops ... at least I now get an extra ball for that lol

It's definitely got that "just one more game" feeling, it's a great balance of challenging to the point of being brutal but yet achievable at the same time

That’s a great way to put it. The final wizard mode is really not that hard to get to, but the game can be so brutal it makes it hard getting there, but not too hard.

Eddy did that same thing with all his games really.

Our r&m should be getting tweaked soon. Hes waiting on his pile of mods to slow down. I told him it never will. It never will.

I love r&m so far though. Its really fun.

Just wanted to give a quick shoutout to ralphwiggum from YOUBENTMYWOOKIE. His lenticular apron cards are absolutely stunning, pictures don’t do it justice. Worth every penny IMO. (Apologies for the GI clown puke, in the process of shopping it out)
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Thanks Dan, I appreciate the kind words! I am really glad you like them! Pictures look great!

Hi all, this is my first post after a lot of reading on the forum. I have had my Shadow for over 20 years, and never really done much work on it. I have used some of my time at home over the past year to fix all the errors, put in some LEDs and fix the Battlefield. I am learning as I go, but a real novice at this. I have been really enjoying playing a lot recently and still have a problem with the Battlefield that I hope someone can help me resolve.

Before doing any work on it the Battlefield targets would often not go down, and the bat would often stop before the ball was returned to the main playfield. I took all the top targets out and cleaned them up, and replaced the coil on the back targets and on the bat. This improved things considerably, but leaves me with one last problem. Very very occasionally when the ball is in the Battlefield the back targets will not go down when hit hard, and I get a Slam Tilt in the game. This was happening before I did any work on it, and is still rare, but becoming more frequent I feel.

Any suggestions how to resolve this?

Then my final frustration with my table is the sensor for the right channel on the left Phurba ramp. I have read this is a common issue, and see a number of solutions. Just wanted to know which is the best solution for this.

Does the machine Slam Tilt at any other time? The switch could be set slightly too sensitive or you may be getting a short - if you go into switch test mode and jiggle the machine or bang on the PF and mini-PF does the Slam Tilt switch (or any other switch) get activated?

Given all machines are different, some people can get away with cheaper solutions than others; however I think the best fix (reliable fix with minimal visual impact, although the most expensive) is the MRS (Magnetic Reed Switch) by @sonic. But that's not to say people don't have success with the switch extenders (that relocate the switch further down the wireform) or even swapping out the switch actuator arm for a long straight actuator.

Does anyone have a spare plastic for the battlefield? Mine lost a screw and while hanging down got a horrible scrape on the backside.

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They do look great. I would buy some but I have the magnetic apron cover.

Just joined the club this weekend and the game came to me with the sunlight LEDs. I have pretty bad vision anyway, but damn it's hard to see the playfield with the lights off in the basement. Was thinking about converting that over to some cool white/clear dome bulbs for the GI, but wanted to see if anyone else had some suggestions to brighten up the game.

You really need to add some spotlights. Just changing the bulbs wont help as much as you probably want. I have bright white 4 smd's in my GI, and still added spotlights.

Hey everyone. Just wanted to mention that I added a new item to my pinside shop. Upper battlefield opto covers! Super easy to install, remove the top screw, insert it through the cover and reattach. I currently made up black, purple and blue, as I assumed those would be the colors most people wanted, but can make almost any color (just will have some turn around time as they aren't made obviously). Here is a link to my shop: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1180-slap-save-creations/04937-the-shadow-upper-playfield-opto-covers

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awesome. ordering now

starting with blue, might order some purple later

Private mail me and I'll send you this plastic.

can you do yellow to match the targets?

These look great! Any possibility of color matching a yellow version with the yellow for the targets on the upper playfield?

Thank you for your very kind offer!

I actually ordered the single plastic from Ministry of Pinball in the UK this morning for $22 including shipping. I was also going to send my old one to #pinkitten, as his is cracked. If you want to send him yours, let me know.

Yes, I'Il order a set in yellow too.

Lot of good form happening there!

I’d also like to see these in a matching yellow.

Whinger9 Just shoot me a PM if interested in an MRS...

Sure! Ill get some yellow going right now and post a pic later of what they look like