Damn. I had looked to see if you had Shadow cards and didn't see them. Now, I'm too late to the party for the freebie. But I will need to buy a set. They look great.

I had ordered a set of Reese Rails for my Shadow in blue that arrived today. I've always loved the blue on the playfield. You don't see a lot of the rails on Shadow, but hopefully they will accent nicely. And if nothing else, they are much more rigid than the stock rails.

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Nice!!! You'll have to post some pics with them installed

Just finished my first pf swap, fresh cleared upper and lower pfields, all custom midnight blue with metallic powder coating. Super stoked to get playing it once I get it dialed in.

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Looks great. Any closeups of the playfield and powdercoat?

I love that Apron! Where did you source that?

Pics dont do it justice...

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Thx, a guy in northern Canada does them. ill see if I can find him, he’s on pinside

Beautiful Shadow.

My center drop target is not working, but I'm not sure why. Everything works in test.

I get the error msg: ER. BAT. DROP BAD CHK. SWITCH/COIL

In game, the drop never gets reset to the up position.

However, in switch test mode, Switch #55 (battlefield drop down) works when target is lowered. And in solenoid test, both single drop up and single drop down work. Not sure what else to try since everything appears to work in test.

Post a pic of you drop target switch and mech - do you have the guide actuator installed?

If you could that would be brilliant thank you!

NinJaBooT made them

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/49#post-2903974

Thats the one, wicked work!!

I would try changing the switch. Might work in a test, but when the machine is in use, vibrating from coils firing, the switch might not work correctly.

Thanks guys, I got it working. The drop wasn't *staying* up so the machine still thought it was broken. I took it apart and cleaned up the target, washers, etc and then used a pliers to crimp the C-clip back on. It's working for the moment. That mid-target lug (the one with the spring) really doesn't have much of a groove for that C-clip. The groove is MUCH more pronounced on the bottom lug and the clip stays in easily. There's barely any groove on the top lug, which is why I had trouble getting the clip to stay in place. Hopefully it stays put for a while now.

Does anyone know where to get the stainless steel battlefield shroud? Looks like Twister is out of stock and doesn’t look to be producing them anymore. I heard someone here in the states can make them. Any help is appreciated! Here’s a pic of what I’m looking for:

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[email protected]
www.pinballplating.com

looks really good , the backboard decal from jonesb would be a perfect color scheme complement to the powder coating

Thx, thats one area I’m not pleased with, ill check it out.

My wall target broke. I remember reading some years ago that the various replacement options sucked -- brittle plastic. Is this still an issue? Is it pretty safe to just order one from Marco?

Mine may be repairable as the crack is at the very bottom of the vertical slot, but if the replacements are sound I'll get one to put in while I fix the original.

I haven't heard of anyone in recent years having any issues with replacements

Super, thanks Manny65 !

Add me to your list too, please! I don't have a Shadow yet but hoping to in the near future. I already have a Aurich translite patiently waiting. If anyone knows of a Shadow for sale PM me!

Does anyone have a solution to light the battlefield when the ball is ready to go up there and turn off when it leaves?

ha! trick response from me as he is currently out of stock but let him know you are interested in getting one

grumpy had a mod for this

grumpy mod is nice

I love the ambition here and process documentation. Being that I'm no longer a huge fan of auxiliary or over the top Led lighting. you might be surprised by the results of trying to emulate the natural lighting of the game with some nice comet warms (clears, sometimes frosted if too hot or pining the eye wrong). Playfield art is so gorgeous and considered from a compositional and color stand point, to transmit color info over the original pf or plastics colors; kind of defeats the purpose. Anyway, looking forward to seeing the results on this. I'll stay tuned and have said my piece.

I have to say I'm not a fan of warm white, use cool white GI in all my games though I did put a little orange in the brick wall section of this game. I'm not sure why I like the cool white better, I just do

Cool white works if you are wanting to make the pin look modern noir. Use warm white if you want to go with an golden era Art Deco look. I go warm.

I’m all warm white too unless the game was designed to have cool white. In that case I do nothing. Haha.

Yup, since I cant make up my mind, almost every game has sunlight.

I was about to say, sunlight is a nice in-between!

I was personally struggling with lighting color choice on my Shadow so I installed sunlight on the left half of the GI and white/yellow/orange colored inserts, and warm white on the right half. Warm white won out easily for both myself and my wife (who has much better eye for color than I do). To me it really depends on the game. My Jurassic Park Premium came with factory warm whites and I changed those out to sunlight - I thought it suited it better.

I’ve gone with Comet 2SMD frosted pretty much everywhere on Shadow.

Blech...I hate warm white. I personally can't stand the way incandescent looks, so I always replace them with cool white.

Hi Art, please remind me (I'm trying to do a stain match to the gun grips)... Do you recall the stain for the reddish grip I have (not dark walnut)?

To my knowledge, there is no stain on the red heartwood. Just Bees Wax rubbed on and heated with a Hair dryer.

You can try matching this up to a stain board at store, but it also depends on the wood, for the end result.

My Son is also testing a Plug and Play Mod that is an easy solution for the battlefield, and other games/areas
that can benefit from Light, when a Ball is present. Protos should arrive in 60-90 days, then testing before any production.
If they work as expected, it will be an affordable solution for everyone..... His first attempt!

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jonesjb please add me to the decal list as well, may already be on it but can't remember. Thanks

Presenting my Pinsound Shadow orchestration. This one took a long time to come together with many starts ands stops on the project. The one nice thing about the pandemic has been forcing me to get projects done that I've left lingering.

Every sound file has been either replaced with source audio, new high resolution cues, or for the custom pinball related call outs - some digital cleanup to remove as much noise and distortion as possible.

Of all the mixes I've done, this is the one I'm most proud about how it turned out due to the effort involved.

I decided to tap into the film's origin story for the Shadow in Mongolia/Tibet and use a lot of prayer bells, gongs, and even some throat singing to go along with the call outs that I replaced from the film. Those with a good ear may notice a certain archeology professor's film series being used for some of the gunfire and punches as I think no series has ever done those sound effects better.

I've always been a big fan of the soundtrack with the synth and drums combined with the orchestra. It's one of Goldsmith's underrated scores.

This is a big file and requires a very fast USB flash drive with good read speeds to eliminate any audio delays. Included in the download is a boot.wav so your game as a proper greeting message when it starts up.

https://www.pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/347-the-shadow-ultimate-orchestration-music-and-sfx/
*This is awaiting approval from Pinsound and should be available shortly.

*Please excuse the horrible video quality and play while this was recording. The "clown puke" look for this doesn't appear this way in person. Digital camera sensors almost always oversaturate blue.

I used a thick washer screwed under the playfield. See post here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/76#post-3734248

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looking forward to installing it..

I found an issue on the paddle in the battlefield...the coil stop bracket has two screws with a nut on them. One of the screws is snapped off and bolt missing. I can’t find them inside the game, so this appears to be a long standing issue that presented itself with these symptoms:

1) Ball not kicking up into battlefield when it’s in the entrance saucer.

2) Loose paddle

3) Paddle coil is “frozen” to where the paddle is between the two optos.

Before I go tearing it all completely apart, has this happened to anyone before?

Is the screw that snapped off replaceable, or is it welded to the whole bracket piece?
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Yep I've had this on mine, although I've not seen many posts showing this issue. The bolt is part of the bracket but you could possibly drill it out and replace; alternatively Mantis has recently started making a replacement bracket. I did see someone post recently saying there was an issue with the new one (clearance for the pinion) so you'd want to ensure that has been addressed

Here are a few more pics...the screws that the nuts attach to appear welded or tacked into place. The yellow circle is where the screw mounts on the back.

Also...the other screw next to it is “loose”...it wiggles a little bit but the flat part underneath doesn’t wiggle..so I think it’s safe to assume that it is also cracked and will fail at some point too

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Drilling will be hard because the little bracket on the underside overlaps those two screws, and the little bracket is not removeable, like it’s welded somehow as part of the overall bracket.

Thanks for the heads up on mantis. I don’t see any screws on the backside of it. Maybe bad angle of the photo?

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Btw you're missing a brass bushing

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Good catch! It was floating and came off with the metal rod when I pull it apart

And I found another crack in the bracket. I’m surprised it’s played this long!

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https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/110684

Wow!! I think the value of any Shadow pin with Aurich signature artwork has just hit a new high