check the ribbon cable and your connectors of the fliptronics board - J905 are the flipper switches and J906 are the EOS switches

I cleaned both diverter assemblies today and replaced both arms with the ones from Pinball Life. What a huge difference it made!

My left diverter is rock solid now but the right one vibrates slightly when it hits the end of a rotation - a bit more when going counter clockwise but happens in both directions. Pretty sure the diverter coil mechanism is dialed in, but there is just such a long distance from the arm to the diverter that there is some natural flex in it that seems to cause the vibration.

It feels like there should be a bushing or something at playfield level to keep the arm from swaying so much.

Anybody know what I should check? I haven’t pulled the ramp or plastics so I’m not sure if anything exists above or below the playfield to keep the mast from wobbling.

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Yeah it seems the guide tube is just sort of pressed into the base of that assembly, making it somewhat flimsy. I asked Kerry from Mantis to see if he was interested in making these, but said he didn't have some tooling to do it right. A nice weld there would be an improvement I think.

That right diverter arm was in need of some cleaning - reckon the op must have sprayed WD40 on it some time in the past when replacing the grub screw.

Interesting that the top hole on replacement is quite different to the originals. As to the vibration, is the front edge of the diverter hitting the wall of the ramp at the end of the rotation?

Love those new PBL diverters. Mine have been so solid. Not so much worrying about the kids mashing the wrong buttons while I am not looking, lol.

It is not hitting the wall of the ramp. I took a quick video showing both diverters.

how is your spring on that diverter? I always double up my springs and it makes it good a tight.

I’m having trouble feeding the ramp diverter through the new link I bough from PBL. Anyone else bought these have any tips? Does the collar go toward the playfield or pointed down?

Thanks!

When I bought mine it had no springs so I got new ones from Marco. This vibration is more side to side and not rotational.

If I reach behind the ramp and gently hold my finger against the diverter shaft while hitting the button, the vibration is gone. Seems like it needs some kind of support closer to the ramp. Feels like mine is missing something or all Shadows would act like this.

I noticed this as well the last time I took the diverter out,I would guess when they designed it the main goal was to be functional and reliable which it is,the aesthetics of the wobble was probably not thought to be that important. Ultimately it will always be a little wobbly as the coil plunger link has wobble too.

I wonder if putting something like a delrin or similar bushing with a semi tight tolerance to the diverter shaft in the hole in the ramp or hole in the play field to stabilize the diverter might help

Where are these springs you speak of? Pics?...I don't have any springs on my diverters...

Here’s a couple views.

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yes that would explain why my diverters are not "snappy" when they hit the end of their stroke...Do you have a part number...need a couple of those...thx

towards the playfield.

is the tube solid on the bracket or loose? I had to weld one of mine

Thanks. I’m wondering if mine wasn’t made properly. I cannot get the diverter rod into the collar. It seems too big to fit into the PBL link. Hmmm

see if the link is in line with the tube without the diverter rod in it. if it doesn't line up the bracket may need to be bent a little to align it. the bracket is not the thickest and bends easily.

That is exactly what it feels like it needs - something analogous to a flipper bushing with a tight tolerance, ideally at the ramp level. It would be rock solid then, just like the left diverter.

A bushing at playfield level where the tube ends would probably also work. I might actually take a look at a flipper bushing and see if it could be modified to work. I’m not sure if the thickness is the same but it seems pretty close.

These sound like great things to check. I’ll do so and see if it makes a difference.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-320

They are too big unless your armature rod opening is worn. Most are so it isn't a problem. The Pinball Life replacements are great but may need to be ground down a bit to work.

I pulled the set screws out and drilled mine a bit. The powder coat seems to be too thick.

Okay thanks. I’ll try that. No idea why this thing is powder coated anyway. Haha

looking at the above picture of the underside , it looks like a tight fit for a standard flipper bushing to fit through the playfield but it could work by cutting off the bushing shaft part and drilling the resultant "disc" to the correct od and mount on the under surface of the playfield . just having 2 points of lateral support on the diverter shaft would help a lot.

thinking out loud, the problem with mounting to the ramp is that the ramp is angled so getting the drilled hole at the right angle for the diverter shaft might be tricky

Order a couple extra springs. I have 2 springs on each of mine and they are nice and snappy and tight. No wobble.

will do!...I like that shit "Tight"

the simplest wobble fix is the best.

Anyone have an extra jonesb backbox decal?

If you aren’t able to locate one, I can put you on the list. I’m planning a reprinting of my decal.

thanks , put me on the list , an y time frame for the reprinting?

Replaced the wall with a new one, fixed the drop target and added 3 spotlights. 4smd cold white currently, but going to order warm whites

Anyone got advice to make the lower part of the playfield and the mini playfield brighter?

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Looks great! Where did you get that back drop decal? I need a new one.

I would highly recommend starpost lights from comet, they're amazing. Change your star posts to clear and add some light ot them. Also, choose the 3 star post option. This will add more light to this part of the playfield.

Link:
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/illuminated-star-post-kit?_pos=1&_sid=9b3b65ee7&_ss=r

From me. I can put you on the list too.

yes please put me on the list!

About to shop out my Shadow so this is perfect timing.

You could rotate one of the spot-lights to shine lower and install a led under the apron.

Next issue on my game.

Sanctum lock magnet is not holding the ball. Just pulses and doesn’t hold the ball, wall doesn’t come down, ball doesn’t physically lock.

I messed with the wall down switch before this issue came to be so I’m wondering if I messed something up there. I think that switch is adjusted properly.

Any ideas?

Yep typically this is because the game is sensing that the wall isn't down, so it doesn't throw the ball.

The plunger attachment and linkage arm have a tendency to wear and even though it doesn't look like there is much slop it can be enough for the game to have issues - once I replaced mine this problem disappeared for me.

Okay so how is the wall switch supposed to work? Is that supposed to be open until the wall is dropped, triggering it? Maybe mine is registering as down while the wall is still up?

Trough light? LED strip diverter lights?

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I just added purple strips under my diverters too, lights up the whole ramp
I would suggest some post leds will light up your lower playfield a bit more. I went with white under light blue star posts

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I'm going to start a complete restore. But first some mechanical issues. My diverter bracket was cracked almost completely.
The coil end.it was almost broken completely Off.
Here's what had to be done. It needed welding but the metal is thin and it needed to be welded clean through. With out support it would have just melted off.
So I made heat sink out of copper and mounted it to the bracket which held it solid and in line . Here's a couple pics.

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I have a bunch of extra shadow parts, diverted mechs and stuff if you end up needing it

If you are going to do another run put me down

Is there a dip switch setting to kill the "aids" message on the DMD?

What you don't like it? Normally my one buddy who comes over (after a few beverages) says- Hey man- Aids is REAL!

LOL really?

It's based on country dip switch setting - some machines you change to export which will disable it. The other option is to put in a custom message in the settings, believe this overrides the default drug / aids message

I am looking for someone in this club to take pictures of my Lenticular cards installed, in exchange for a free set. The first one to post to this thread with interest (and I haven't sent you cards before for the same offer- gotta spread the love) will get them.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1289-youbentmywookie/04836-the-shadow-lenticular-apron-cards

TheShadow.gif

If you are interested in other cards I make, my playground is over here-
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lenticular-apron-cards

Thanks!

I'll do it.

Awesome... Send me your snail mail via PM and I will get them mailed out!

Thanks everyone!

Did some testing on mine. The switch opens & closes when the top of the wall target is about 3/4" from the PF surface. So the switch is open when the target is up and closed when down. Throwing the ball into lock, the machine detects the ball at the sanctum (opto switch), grabs the ball with the magnet, drops the wall, receives a wall down switch notification, throws the ball into lock and then puts the wall back up again. However I have seen it get confused previously (prior to replacing the lifting linkage) so I believe there are other things in this routine as to the status and timing - possibly the slop in the linkage causes a delay to when the switch is opening?? Do you have a credit dot?

I fixed mine. Basically if that switch is not working 100% the way it should, all kinds of weird stuff happens.

Just make sure that switch only registers when the wall is in the down position, and registers every time. If it doesn’t register consistently or at the wrong times, things up there go haywire.