Wall plastic is driving me nuts.. I have replaced it in 2015 and it needs replacing again. The bottom of the wall breaks because it is too thin. Had glued a piece of sheet metal to the bottom, but it came off..

As far as I'm aware the mech works like it should. Recently took it apart and cleaned it. Anyone got advice for adjustment or a "stronger" wall? Right now the wall shoots up too far up and gets stuck, making the game unplayable

20210201_165652 (resized).jpg

6 years is not too bad ? .

i would super glue the crack and then wrap a piece of clear gorilla tape up both sides and then cut out the notch where the washer slides

Just buy a new one. Plastic gets old and brittle over time.

You need to know why there is too much movement. I would look at the plunger and coil stop. As these parts wear out the up movement increases. Also someone may have use an incorrect part, like a shorter plunger, this would beat the bottom of the target until it breaks. Remember the target is not the stop the coil stop is.

i had another thought that if the target is binding when it gets pushed up it would put more force on the bottom of the target leading to the breakage you see

The most damage on the bottom of the wall target is in the centre where the plunger pushes the target up. If the target is being pushed up until it becomes stuck, then the plunger is trying to force the target even higher and damaging the bottom of the target. I agree with GRUMPY I'd check the coil stop (possibly worn or the wrong part - it's supposed to be https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18746) and double check the plunger and linkage that pushes the wall up are correct (these can become worn but I've not heard of it damaging the target).

Shadow - wall target mech (resized).JPG

Ow wait it is 2021 lol, 6 years is not so bad indeed. I'll buy myself a new one, this one is long gone Thanks!

Recently took the assembly apart and do not remember checking the coil stop! I did however replace the sleeve and clean the plunger, it moves very smooth. Will check if it is the right part (pretty sure it is) and order a new coil stop and wall. Thanks!

I will have to check the movement of the wall and the arm that pushes it up I think you're right, the wall gets pushed too high so it gets stuck, and it might be why it is broken. When I bought the machine in 2012 the wall was getting a bit stuck on the switch so it didn't rest on the arm, and the arm slammed into the bottom of the wall everytime it wanted to raise it. Will have to check both of these things. Thanks!

Hey everyone - experiencing an issue where the battlefield drop bank reset plate is skipping over the end drops because the notch that pushes them up isn't long enough. This seems like a terrible design flaw so I'm wondering if I have a non-factory reset plate or something here isn't original?

I had a shorter sleeve in the coil (pictured) which I believe is factory that I've switched out for the longest one you can possibly use while still giving the plunger full range. Not any better. When the plunger rotates, the reset plate moves side to side and skip the end targets (pictured). Anyone have a solution for this or do you see any parts that are incorrect here?

PXL_20210131_201732249 (resized).jpg

PXL_20210131_201735979 (resized).jpg

PXL_20210131_201745142 (resized).jpg

it looks right to me. Is the nylon stop nut that secures the plate the the plunger tightened sufficiently? Your coil and coil stop are secured with little to no play? There seems to be a lot of play on that plate.

the force on the plate is in the midline of the plate and should push straight up when in operation, if you grab it off center it will cant as you demonstrate but that should not happen during operation if the plate is securely fastened by the nut . i would check the hole in the plate perhaps it has enlarged over time allowing the rotation .

i would also check the arrangement of the washers on the attachment of drop targets , if you have extra washers beneath the attachment the targets will sit a little farther out giving less surface for the plate to push up on

Yes, all nuts are fully secured. The only play of any kind in this entire mech is that plunger that goes in the coil can be rotated - the reset plate itself stops the rotation when either end hits the bracket. I would imagine this is intended. It's not out of the ordinary. The only way I can see to fix this is for the plunger and therefore the coil opening to be closer to the bracket, which would allow it less play. But nothing is bent odd or in a way that would move the plunger further away from the bracket....maybe the back (brass) coil stop SHOULD be bent down to angle the coil that way? How is yours?

New wall and coilstop ordered. Will install those asap and look if the movement is okay. Hopefully this new wall will last 5 years or longer

Mine does actually have quite a bit of play on either side of it like yours. Based off of that, I would guess that the bottoms of your drop targets are worn away from over the years. If I manually push where the stop nut is, there aren't any problems with the plate catching the drop targets and pushing them up. Is yours like that?

20210202_193954 (resized).jpg20210202_194001 (resized).jpg20210202_194012 (resized).jpg

Just installed a colorDMD LCD in my Shadow. What a huge improvement over stock. The coloring done is awesome.

20210202_215245 (resized).jpg

agreed!!

I need one of those on my game too, and a new set of plastics...and new mantis ramps...

I'll 2nd that!

I've only had my Shadow for 3 days, so am definitely in the honeymoon period, but I have to say this is one of the best games I've ever owned. I've played it a handful of times on location but never gotten very deep into it. Now I can't stop thinking about it and looking for an excuse to go in the basement to play it. I have a shop job planned on it, which was going to be just repair the sanctum, swap out the rubbers, and get rid of the clown puke LEDs. Now I'm leaning towards a complete tear down and polish, new cab decals, speaker upgrade, new diverter crank arms, on and on. I now see why Shadows come up for sale so rarely. People that "know", don't want to let them go. I'm a happy new member of that club.

The Shadow knows.

If you notice the black shroud surrounding the battlefield has cracked, it's quite unobtainium in plastic. But there's a way to fix this forever, gorgeous part (thou, yes, not cheap!).. I'm a purist, so I went for the black nickel to match original colors
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinballplatingcom-chrome-brass-black-nickel-powder-coating/page/27#post-5891037

Thanks for the link - I had seen that in a google search and it looks stunning. Fortunately my shroud appears to be intact, but I will know better once I tear it apart.

My first dilemma for the shop tear down: Keep the full playfield mylar or pull it up. I have had pretty good success pulling up mylar in the past, but my last attempt was over 10 years ago on a variety of WPC games, so the playfields weren’t as old. I can feel the mode inserts when I rub my finger over them, but I don’t know if that is just some bubbling in the mylar or an actual issue with raised inserts. I don’t plan to clear coat the playfield. There are no edge issues with the mylar, but there are a few scratches and it is really dull.

The safe approach would be to buff the mylar with an orbital polisher and see how nice I can get it first.

Agreed, safe approach is always best, I tend to do less as possible or it gets over my head real fast! Some gentle polishing could do magic. Welcome to the club, Shadow is solidly anchored here!

Anyone know where to find this part or have an extra lying around?

E360E77B-5776-4298-B78F-BDB4885FA39D (resized).jpeg

Has anyone ever had to replace the gun handle ball launcher with just a regular push button? Would it be a difficult swap?

this guy has one

ebay.com link: NOS Bally shadow pinball parts

Funny, I’m actually doing the opposite soon. Haven’t tackled it yet, but looks manageable (famous last words).

Yikes, $90 pre-tax is steep. No one's making repro's of this yet?

should be easy, the switch in the gun is the same type switch that works in the push buttons.

Is there a cheaper place to buy this? I don’t feel like paying $50 for this. Haha

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18983

Looks like pinball life is a tad cheaper. I guess that’s the best option.

yep, unfortunetly. I think Terry is the one who has them made.

Wish they made the plunger too, mine is worn from the above part getting sloppy and dug Into it a bit...

A switch is a switch. Reconnect the wires to any switch you want. You might have to fill some holes and cut a hole for a new button.

FYI the ebay one is the other tubing part (not the one you are looking for) - it's the one that is screwed to the backboard and has the switch attached

As far as I'm aware repro's for both parts have been made in the past - there was plenty around 4-5 years ago

Shadow - 03-9215 (resized).JPG

Thanks. I sent both parts over to Chris at Hot Rod Arcade to see if we can get some metal reproduciton units made so these will never crack again. Still waiting on a response.

I have the metal shroud from Chirs and its amazing. I'll keep the group posted on the status of these reproduction units.

I think with some creativity and decent skills, you could probably cut one out of black PVC pipe, if in a bind...

For sure. If I'm shopping/restoring a Shadow, i'd at least like it to look nice/professional.

great idea, but wonder if the demand is there? I worked with Chris on the metal shroud. I like how they turned out.

Well considering both of these plastic mini ramps are sold out everywhere, I'd say there's a decent demand for it.

I bought the metal shroud from Chris in a brass finish and its amazing. Great job on that. Would love to complete the look with these two mini ramps. I haven't head back from Chris yet, hopefully everything is ok...

He is good, just crazy busy.

hello, for sale Aurich backglass translite + speaker panel + 2 cards in original box. Mint conditions.

What is the value? I've heard they are not anymore in productions due to copyright issues...

Not sure about the copyright stuff. He has produced those for 6-7 years. I would think $250-$300

I would be interested if you are in the US.

sorry, from Europe here, Italy.

No worries. The search continues states side haha.

I have another mod for the Shadow. The enlighted brick wall on the top of the playfield. Its spectacular. Bought years ago from a German producer, top quality materials, in perfect shape. How much could the value be?

003 (resized).jpg

DSCF2782 (resized).JPG

IMG_0798 (resized).JPG

IMG_0801 (resized).JPG

IMG_0813 (resized).JPG

image0007 (resized).jpg

I remember this mod. It is great. i will take it if you want to sell. no Ideas what it is worth.

3A08D175-C39B-4D0E-B815-45376CF1CBB2 (resized).jpeg

Cleaning up for a friend

It will take sometimes as I have to sort out few things. I am now just planning selling some stuff and trying to find out about values. Feel free to contact me after some times if you'll be still interested. I will let know my asking price when I will have more info.

Finally reassembling my Shadow after replating, and now I have some issues. The main current issue is as soon as I turn the game on, all 3 flippers engage and fuse 112 blows.

Since there was some disassembly and reassembly, it's very possible something got crossed up. Any ideas on where I should start to track this down?