Played about a dozen games this morning, and yes, there should be a sleeve on both sides as I am not getting any rejects anymore. In case anyone was wondering

a picture would be better as I can't se the link....are you talking about the MPU board?...if no power there...then no 5V...check fuses first

Yes I don't see the CPU board (lower far left) LEDs turning on (the 3 LEDs are on the top left of the board) - D21 LED (bottom LED of the 3) shows the board is getting 5 volt power.

WPC CPU LEDs (resized).JPG

I can see LED 4 (5 volt) on the power driver board (large board in the bottom centre) come on. I'd check and reseat J114 connector on the power driver board and J210 on the CPU board. If no luck, you can disconnect all connectors from the CPU board except J210 (getting power to the CPU board is the first thing) use a DMM to check the Test Points (TP) on the power driver board.

WPC Power Board - Voltage Test Points (resized).jpg

Anyone making replacement gun grips for this machine?...I really like the one Aurich has on his...with the coin in it very sweet...

Hey guys I am sending out another game board for NVRAM and decided to look at my Shadow to see if I wanted to send both out. I haven’t seen a “ battery holder” like this, is this safe enough off the board or would you have NVRAM installed?

Also is LH-6 the most up to date ROM?

96709BC4-6E49-4DB5-9452-38CE425D9CED (resized).jpeg

B8383776-58E5-455C-A99B-F99C089E32B5 (resized).jpeg

There should NEVER be any AA batteries in any pin IMO. Only asking for death! NVram or button battery board is a first mod must. That battery holder is normal for a WPC-S WPC95 CPU.

I'm looking as well. I found a guy on here that use to make them but no longer can.

NVRAM for the win! I have worked on my fair share of battery damaged boards, even WPC-S, which is what that board is.

L-6 is the latest

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2528 shows the versions (believe LH-6 is possibly modified for home use??)
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/roms/shadow.html shows the various revisions

just use lithium AA's. They aren't going to leak

This. Energizer Li ion batteries are affordable now and will easily last 5 years in a pin and will not leak. Simple affordable solution.

No more leaky Alkaline batteries and no need to solder anything.

So was contemplating making a small mod for the shadow ring light with another pinsider...I'm thinking of a small board with a surface mounted led that can then be directly wired to the existing wiring harness as the lamp sockets are no longer available. He wants to know what the interest would be in this to proceed any further...so give me a shout if this is something you guys are interested in...

I would say no on this. Converting the rings to LEDs is super simple and only costs pennies to do. Raw LEDs are roughly the same form factor as the OEM bulbs. Just add a resistor and you're good to go.

The lamp sockets are available here https://shop.thepinwitch.com/Geraetespezifisches/Bally/The-Shadow/the-shadow-lampenfassung-fuer-ring.html

A batch were made somewhat recently and available through the regular US suppliers but seem to have sold out - not sure if they are planning on restocking but I wouldn't have thought that it was something that would be in high demand (could be wrong of course).

The lamps are pretty common https://www.pinballlife.com/7268-bulbs-sold-individually.html and https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8855

I just put one of these in each ring and wire accordingly

pasted_image (resized).png

PinballOrphanage link for these?

All my harnesses are missing and the present rigs are kind of a mess. Still using incandescent and they are soldered directly to wire and tend to go out from vibration.

Do these need a resistor?

Thanks!

$15 USD per socket + shipping.. then, adding the bulbs.. I kinda like de LEDs approach!

No resistor needed if you’re using the OEM bulbs.

One example stateside. Lots of choices online....

ebay.com link: 1 8mm 2mm 3mm 5mm 8mm 10mm Pre Wired LED DC9 12V Lights Emitting Diodes

Oh that's great. OK I see that these are standard bulbs and not LEDs so no need for resistor. Can't beat the price, ordering thank you!

Just for the record. These LEDs Wmsfan offered up already have the resistor added. It makes them a great choice. They are almost plug and play.

Appreciate that, that's a bonus as I thought they were incandescent. Sounds like I can just slap a couple pins on the end and connect to the existing molex, nice.

Right phurba on my shadow is dead, no switch registering in test. If anyone has any ideas send em my way while I poke around, thanks!

A couple issues with my Shadow. My left ramp diverter power has been losing power and is barely moving now. Also once the ball hits the magnet on the sanctum and goes to lock...it hits something and then come back down about 50% of the time. It must hit something but can’t see it. Any suggestions?

Would a colored LED show well through the red lens? Not sure if I should get red or white... or blue or purple

Just to confirm, in switch test mode pressing the right phurba button doesn't register? This is a switch issue (check the switch leaves touch when you press the button)
Now go into solenoid test and go to right diverter (there is a right and left test), have the coin door closed and confirm that the diverter moves right and left correctly. If so then the diverter itself is fine.

Might need to replace the 2 coil sleeves on the diverter and make sure that it can move freely (the diverter is not bent or catching on anything).

Check that the sanctum wall is flush with the PF when down and also that the switch roll-over wire in the ball locks are not stuck up or rubbing on the side of the hole through the PF)

so the consensus on the ring lights seems to be ..stay with the led...simple solution I guess...

Which lens? The rings? If so definitely white. Using a color LED will just dull or brown the red. Even if you use red, it will just make the light look dimmer.

I used red 3 mm prewired led's in my first shadow and the looked excellent and bright. Going to do the same on the one I have now as all of the existing ones are in rough shape

Correct.

Jumping 212-1 to 212-6 is not giving me a switch reading. Poking around the board and manual. Let me know if you're bored and smart because I am neither of these things.

Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.

Yes it should be J212-1 and J212-6. If you have a spare WPC-S board or another game that'd have one, you could try swapping it in to confirm it is the board. Unfortunately this is where I reach my knowledge limit as well ... sorry. I would be interested to hear how you get on - maybe post the issue in the Tech area as there are plenty of people that'll be able to advise what to check on the board to find the issue.

Zaza was able to handhold me through the fix after confirming the problem was not wiring. The switch was stuck closed and was related to removing U7 due to a shorted optocoupler on the power driver board

@Zara isJ are you able to explain this a little more as I'd like to get a better understanding. Thanks

The optocoupler on the powerdriver (U7= switch #12) was stuck closed so there was indeed no response when the pins 1 + 6 on J212 were shorted.
When the ribboncable between CPU and PDB was removed, switch #12 was cleared and responded on the cabinet button.

#the Shadow doesn't use the optocouplers so removing U7 solved the problem.

Oops sorry zaza

Thanks for clarifying. I found this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wpc-driver-board-causing-opto-switch-problem-watch-video where the op had a similar issue - you helped out on that one too Good to learn from, thanks!

He is a technician (god) among pinsiders.

I’ve given my shadow a facelift with wire forms RE-brassed then clearcoated, added black mirror blades and the MRS switch. Looks and plays beatifully!

250A9794-84CD-4BC0-A99D-F38A7B1FA674 (resized).jpeg

3E33BE95-C50B-4069-8A83-D51229D0D5B4 (resized).jpeg

5088BFBC-604F-4650-B5B4-63CFA4D6CBB5 (resized).jpeg

8643A6D3-0D68-40BA-B646-ED06F0C8EA81 (resized).jpeg

EA74E6ED-02FD-4003-A42F-406004D2E909 (resized).jpeg

Any opinion on if the LED or LCD color DMD is better for this game?

In A4 HSTD Adjustments you can turn on/off recording & showing high scores in attract mode but you can't do it specifically for the Buy-in high scores

Yes I know what you mean, I always turn off Buy-in as well. soren is now producing licensed WMS updated ROMs addressing bugs and potentially adding features - so disabling Buy-in high scores from showing if Buy-in was disable would make sense.

I had an LED in mine, replaced it with an LCD and I'm happy with that. Not everyone's opinion though.

Added some of the lighted flipper buttons from Pinball Life. I really think they make a pin pop in a line up. I'm hooked on them for sure. Have them on all of my pins now. Shadow was the last one to do since I had to do 2 sets to make it look right. Found some music on line and did a little fly over. I did swap out the fender washers on the slings after I watched this video with some lexan ones. Enjoy....

I guess this was an oversight in a number of games. An easy fix, but I am not making an update just for that. I agree it is an itch to see those redundant scores (in status report as well). And by strive for perfection they should be removed when buy-in is irrelevant.

Please fill in other mishabs of this game.

I'll tell you one myself. You know combos payout can go insane on this game, right. Well, there is a procedure to cap this at 30M. But it does not work. And the reason for this is that the value is never at 30M exact. When going 10M +3M per combo. And I am guessing that it became like this because the +3M originally was +2 or +1 only. But change to +3 last minute. This is how bugs happen. Sometimes.

Correct. This is the main scoring issue in the game. You can just go loop combo to upper flipper loop all day and the combo doesn’t cap. I heard Bowen mention in his tutorial he saw 249M loop combo shots which is ridiculous.
The other issue is the score for completing the battlefield is too low for the effort needed to complete and doesn’t make it a worthwhile strategy imo

Yes Shadow seems pretty solid from a code perspective, I haven't seen any issues other than what you've mentioned and it's interesting to see how the cap became ineffective.