(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

7 years ago



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  • 8,050 posts
  • 620 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by epeabs
  • Topic is favorited by 216 Pinsiders

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There are 8050 posts in this topic. You are on page 157 of 161.
#7801 55 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Every metal post always needs some kind of rubber sleeve or ring. Can't have the ball beating into a metal post.

Played about a dozen games this morning, and yes, there should be a sleeve on both sides as I am not getting any rejects anymore. In case anyone was wondering

#7802 55 days ago
Quoted from InfamousDolphin:

Hi all! I have had some issues with my shadow in the past and this forum helped. I turned it on and got this :
https://app.box.com/s/5l03tzjozzp4h6mhd96f0ncabz84ztss
It looks as though the board on the far left isn't getting power, or is something even worse. What is the recommendation?
Thanks

a picture would be better as I can't se the link....are you talking about the MPU board?...if no power there...then no 5V...check fuses first

#7803 55 days ago
Quoted from InfamousDolphin:

Hi all! I have had some issues with my shadow in the past and this forum helped. I turned it on and got this :
https://app.box.com/s/5l03tzjozzp4h6mhd96f0ncabz84ztss
It looks as though the board on the far left isn't getting power, or is something even worse. What is the recommendation?
Thanks

Yes I don't see the CPU board (lower far left) LEDs turning on (the 3 LEDs are on the top left of the board) - D21 LED (bottom LED of the 3) shows the board is getting 5 volt power.

WPC CPU LEDs (resized).JPG

I can see LED 4 (5 volt) on the power driver board (large board in the bottom centre) come on. I'd check and reseat J114 connector on the power driver board and J210 on the CPU board. If no luck, you can disconnect all connectors from the CPU board except J210 (getting power to the CPU board is the first thing) use a DMM to check the Test Points (TP) on the power driver board.

WPC Power Board - Voltage Test Points (resized).jpg

#7804 55 days ago

Anyone making replacement gun grips for this machine?...I really like the one Aurich has on his...with the coin in it very sweet...

#7805 52 days ago

Hey guys I am sending out another game board for NVRAM and decided to look at my Shadow to see if I wanted to send both out. I haven’t seen a “ battery holder” like this, is this safe enough off the board or would you have NVRAM installed?

Also is LH-6 the most up to date ROM?

96709BC4-6E49-4DB5-9452-38CE425D9CED (resized).jpegB8383776-58E5-455C-A99B-F99C089E32B5 (resized).jpeg
#7806 52 days ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Hey guys I am sending out another game board for NVRAM and decided to look at my Shadow to see if I wanted to send both out. I haven’t seen a “ battery holder” like this, is this safe enough off the board or would you have NVRAM installed?
Also is LH-6 the most up to date ROM?[quoted image][quoted image]

There should NEVER be any AA batteries in any pin IMO. Only asking for death! NVram or button battery board is a first mod must. That battery holder is normal for a WPC-S WPC95 CPU.

#7807 52 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Anyone making replacement gun grips for this machine?...I really like the one Aurich has on his...with the coin in it very sweet...

I'm looking as well. I found a guy on here that use to make them but no longer can.

#7808 52 days ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Hey guys I am sending out another game board for NVRAM and decided to look at my Shadow to see if I wanted to send both out. I haven’t seen a “ battery holder” like this, is this safe enough off the board or would you have NVRAM installed?

NVRAM for the win! I have worked on my fair share of battery damaged boards, even WPC-S, which is what that board is.

#7809 52 days ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Hey guys I am sending out another game board for NVRAM and decided to look at my Shadow to see if I wanted to send both out. I haven’t seen a “ battery holder” like this, is this safe enough off the board or would you have NVRAM installed?
Also is LH-6 the most up to date ROM?[quoted image][quoted image]

L-6 is the latest

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2528 shows the versions (believe LH-6 is possibly modified for home use??)
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/roms/shadow.html shows the various revisions

#7810 51 days ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

I haven’t seen a “ battery holder” like this, is this safe enough off the board or would you have NVRAM installed?

just use lithium AA's. They aren't going to leak

#7811 51 days ago
Quoted from TZBen:

just use lithium AA's. They aren't going to leak

This. Energizer Li ion batteries are affordable now and will easily last 5 years in a pin and will not leak. Simple affordable solution.

No more leaky Alkaline batteries and no need to solder anything.

#7812 50 days ago

So was contemplating making a small mod for the shadow ring light with another pinsider...I'm thinking of a small board with a surface mounted led that can then be directly wired to the existing wiring harness as the lamp sockets are no longer available. He wants to know what the interest would be in this to proceed any further...so give me a shout if this is something you guys are interested in...

#7813 50 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

So was contemplating making a small mod for the shadow ring light with another pinsider...I'm thinking of a small board with a surface mounted led that can then be directly wired to the existing wiring harness as the lamp sockets are no longer available. He wants to know what the interest would be in this to proceed any further...so give me a shout if this is something you guys are interested in...

I would say no on this. Converting the rings to LEDs is super simple and only costs pennies to do. Raw LEDs are roughly the same form factor as the OEM bulbs. Just add a resistor and you're good to go.

#7814 50 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

So was contemplating making a small mod for the shadow ring light with another pinsider...I'm thinking of a small board with a surface mounted led that can then be directly wired to the existing wiring harness as the lamp sockets are no longer available. He wants to know what the interest would be in this to proceed any further...so give me a shout if this is something you guys are interested in...

The lamp sockets are available here https://shop.thepinwitch.com/Geraetespezifisches/Bally/The-Shadow/the-shadow-lampenfassung-fuer-ring.html

A batch were made somewhat recently and available through the regular US suppliers but seem to have sold out - not sure if they are planning on restocking but I wouldn't have thought that it was something that would be in high demand (could be wrong of course).

The lamps are pretty common https://www.pinballlife.com/7268-bulbs-sold-individually.html and https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8855

#7815 50 days ago

I just put one of these in each ring and wire accordingly

pasted_image (resized).png
#7816 50 days ago

pinballorphanage link for these?

All my harnesses are missing and the present rigs are kind of a mess. Still using incandescent and they are soldered directly to wire and tend to go out from vibration.

Do these need a resistor?

Thanks!

#7817 50 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

The lamp sockets are available here https://shop.thepinwitch.com/Geraetespezifisches/Bally/The-Shadow/the-shadow-lampenfassung-fuer-ring.html
A batch were made somewhat recently and available through the regular US suppliers but seem to have sold out - not sure if they are planning on restocking but I wouldn't have thought that it was something that would be in high demand (could be wrong of course).
The lamps are pretty common https://www.pinballlife.com/7268-bulbs-sold-individually.html and https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8855

$15 USD per socket + shipping.. then, adding the bulbs.. I kinda like de LEDs approach!

#7818 50 days ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

pinballorphanage link for these?
All my harnesses are missing and the present rigs are kind of a mess. Still using incandescent and they are soldered directly to wire and tend to go out from vibration.
Do these need a resistor?
Thanks!

No resistor needed if you’re using the OEM bulbs.

#7820 50 days ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

One example stateside. Lots of choices online....
ebay.com link » 1 8mm 2mm 3mm 5mm 8mm 10mm Pre Wired Led Dc9 12v Lights Emitting Diodes

Oh that's great. OK I see that these are standard bulbs and not LEDs so no need for resistor. Can't beat the price, ordering thank you!

#7821 50 days ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Oh that's great. OK I see that these are standard bulbs and not LEDs so no need for resistor. Can't beat the price, ordering thank you!

Just for the record. These LEDs Wmsfan offered up already have the resistor added. It makes them a great choice. They are almost plug and play.

#7822 50 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Just for the record. These LEDs Wmsfan offered up already have the resistor added. It makes them a great choice. They are almost plug and play.

Appreciate that, that's a bonus as I thought they were incandescent. Sounds like I can just slap a couple pins on the end and connect to the existing molex, nice.

#7823 49 days ago

Right phurba on my shadow is dead, no switch registering in test. If anyone has any ideas send em my way while I poke around, thanks!

#7824 49 days ago

A couple issues with my Shadow. My left ramp diverter power has been losing power and is barely moving now. Also once the ball hits the magnet on the sanctum and goes to lock...it hits something and then come back down about 50% of the time. It must hit something but can’t see it. Any suggestions?

#7825 49 days ago

Would a colored LED show well through the red lens? Not sure if I should get red or white... or blue or purple

#7826 49 days ago
Quoted from Isjack:

Right phurba on my shadow is dead, no switch registering in test. If anyone has any ideas send em my way while I poke around, thanks!

Just to confirm, in switch test mode pressing the right phurba button doesn't register? This is a switch issue (check the switch leaves touch when you press the button)
Now go into solenoid test and go to right diverter (there is a right and left test), have the coin door closed and confirm that the diverter moves right and left correctly. If so then the diverter itself is fine.

#7827 49 days ago
Quoted from laclipps:

A couple issues with my Shadow. My left ramp diverter power has been losing power and is barely moving now. Also once the ball hits the magnet on the sanctum and goes to lock...it hits something and then come back down about 50% of the time. It must hit something but can’t see it. Any suggestions?

Might need to replace the 2 coil sleeves on the diverter and make sure that it can move freely (the diverter is not bent or catching on anything).

Check that the sanctum wall is flush with the PF when down and also that the switch roll-over wire in the ball locks are not stuck up or rubbing on the side of the hole through the PF)

#7828 49 days ago

so the consensus on the ring lights seems to be ..stay with the led...simple solution I guess...

#7829 49 days ago
Quoted from dudah:

Would a colored LED show well through the red lens? Not sure if I should get red or white... or blue or purple

Which lens? The rings? If so definitely white. Using a color LED will just dull or brown the red. Even if you use red, it will just make the light look dimmer.

#7830 49 days ago
Quoted from dudah:

Would a colored LED show well through the red lens? Not sure if I should get red or white... or blue or purple

I used red 3 mm prewired led's in my first shadow and the looked excellent and bright. Going to do the same on the one I have now as all of the existing ones are in rough shape

#7831 49 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Just to confirm, in switch test mode pressing the right phurba button doesn't register? This is a switch issue (check the switch leaves touch when you press the button)
Now go into solenoid test and go to right diverter (there is a right and left test), have the coin door closed and confirm that the diverter moves right and left correctly. If so then the diverter itself is fine.

Correct.

Jumping 212-1 to 212-6 is not giving me a switch reading. Poking around the board and manual. Let me know if you're bored and smart because I am neither of these things.

#7832 48 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Might need to replace the 2 coil sleeves on the diverter and make sure that it can move freely (the diverter is not bent or catching on anything).
Check that the sanctum wall is flush with the PF when down and also that the switch roll-over wire in the ball locks are not stuck up or rubbing on the side of the hole through the PF)

Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.

#7833 48 days ago
Quoted from Isjack:

Correct.
Jumping 212-1 to 212-6 is not giving me a switch reading. Poking around the board and manual. Let me know if you're bored and smart because I am neither of these things.

Yes it should be J212-1 and J212-6. If you have a spare WPC-S board or another game that'd have one, you could try swapping it in to confirm it is the board. Unfortunately this is where I reach my knowledge limit as well ... sorry. I would be interested to hear how you get on - maybe post the issue in the Tech area as there are plenty of people that'll be able to advise what to check on the board to find the issue.

#7834 48 days ago

Zaza was able to handhold me through the fix after confirming the problem was not wiring. The switch was stuck closed and was related to removing U7 due to a shorted optocoupler on the power driver board

#7835 47 days ago
Quoted from Isjack:

Zaza was able to handhold me through the fix after confirming the problem was not wiring. The switch was stuck open and was related to removing U7 due to a shorted optocoupler on the power driver board

@Zara Isjack are you able to explain this a little more as I'd like to get a better understanding. Thanks

#7836 47 days ago
? me ?

The optocoupler on the powerdriver (U7= switch #12) was stuck closed so there was indeed no response when the pins 1 + 6 on J212 were shorted.
When the ribboncable between CPU and PDB was removed, switch #12 was cleared and responded on the cabinet button.

#the Shadow doesn't use the optocouplers so removing U7 solved the problem.

#7837 47 days ago
Quoted from zaza:

? me ?
The optocoupler on the powerdriver (U7= switch #12) was stuck closed so there was indeed no response when the pins 1 + 6 on J212 were shorted.
When the ribboncable between CPU and PDB was removed, switch #12 was cleared and responded on the cabinet button.
#the Shadow doesn't use the optocouplers so removing U7 solved the problem.

Oops sorry zaza

Thanks for clarifying. I found this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wpc-driver-board-causing-opto-switch-problem-watch-video where the op had a similar issue - you helped out on that one too Good to learn from, thanks!

#7838 46 days ago
Quoted from Isjack:

Zaza was able to handhold me through the fix after confirming the problem was not wiring. The switch was stuck closed and was related to removing U7 due to a shorted optocoupler on the power driver board

He is a technician (god) among pinsiders.

#7839 46 days ago

I’ve given my shadow a facelift with wire forms RE-brassed then clearcoated, added black mirror blades and the MRS switch. Looks and plays beatifully!

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#7840 45 days ago

New Shadow owner, just curious if there's a way to eliminate the "buy in" high scores from showing up during the attract mode. I already disabled the "buy in" ball in the settings.

#7841 45 days ago

Any opinion on if the LED or LCD color DMD is better for this game?

#7842 45 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

New Shadow owner, just curious if there's a way to eliminate the "buy in" high scores from showing up during the attract mode. I already disabled the "buy in" ball in the settings.

In A4 HSTD Adjustments you can turn on/off recording & showing high scores in attract mode but you can't do it specifically for the Buy-in high scores

#7843 45 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

In A4 HSTD Adjustments you can turn on/off recording & showing high scores in attract mode but you can't do it specifically for the Buy-in high scores

I want it to show the high scores for the grand champion and the others like normal. I don't like the buyin high scores at all, I'll never play buyin games.

#7844 45 days ago
Quoted from Methos:

Any opinion on if the LED or LCD color DMD is better for this game?

I think it's strictly a personal preference, but I always choose LCD. I don't like the small dots for any games.

#7845 45 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

I want it to show the high scores for the grand champion and the others like normal. I don't like the buyin high scores at all, I'll never play buyin games.

Yes I know what you mean, I always turn off Buy-in as well. soren is now producing licensed WMS updated ROMs addressing bugs and potentially adding features - so disabling Buy-in high scores from showing if Buy-in was disable would make sense.

#7846 45 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

I think it's strictly a personal preference, but I always choose LCD. I don't like the small dots for any games.

I had an LED in mine, replaced it with an LCD and I'm happy with that. Not everyone's opinion though.

#7847 45 days ago

Added some of the lighted flipper buttons from Pinball Life. I really think they make a pin pop in a line up. I'm hooked on them for sure. Have them on all of my pins now. Shadow was the last one to do since I had to do 2 sets to make it look right. Found some music on line and did a little fly over. I did swap out the fender washers on the slings after I watched this video with some lexan ones. Enjoy....

#7848 45 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Yes I know what you mean, I always turn off Buy-in as well. soren is now producing licensed WMS updated ROMs addressing bugs and potentially adding features - so disabling Buy-in high scores from showing if Buy-in was disable would make sense.

I guess this was an oversight in a number of games. An easy fix, but I am not making an update just for that. I agree it is an itch to see those redundant scores (in status report as well). And by strive for perfection they should be removed when buy-in is irrelevant.

Please fill in other mishabs of this game.

I'll tell you one myself. You know combos payout can go insane on this game, right. Well, there is a procedure to cap this at 30M. But it does not work. And the reason for this is that the value is never at 30M exact. When going 10M +3M per combo. And I am guessing that it became like this because the +3M originally was +2 or +1 only. But change to +3 last minute. This is how bugs happen. Sometimes.

#7849 45 days ago
Quoted from soren:

I guess this was an oversight in a number of games. An easy fix, but I am not making an update just for that. I agree it is an itch to see those redundant scores (in status report as well). And by strive for perfection they should be removed when buy-in is irrelevant.
Please fill in other mishabs of this game.
I'll tell you one myself. You know combos payout can go insane on this game, right. Well, there is a procedure to cap this at 30M. But it does not work. And the reason for this is that the value is never at 30M exact. When going 10M +3M per combo. And I am guessing that it became like this because the +3M originally was +2 or +1 only. But change to +3 last minute. This is how bugs happen. Sometimes.

Correct. This is the main scoring issue in the game. You can just go loop combo to upper flipper loop all day and the combo doesn’t cap. I heard Bowen mention in his tutorial he saw 249M loop combo shots which is ridiculous.
The other issue is the score for completing the battlefield is too low for the effort needed to complete and doesn’t make it a worthwhile strategy imo

#7850 45 days ago
Quoted from soren:

I guess this was an oversight in a number of games. An easy fix, but I am not making an update just for that. I agree it is an itch to see those redundant scores (in status report as well). And by strive for perfection they should be removed when buy-in is irrelevant.
Please fill in other mishabs of this game.
I'll tell you one myself. You know combos payout can go insane on this game, right. Well, there is a procedure to cap this at 30M. But it does not work. And the reason for this is that the value is never at 30M exact. When going 10M +3M per combo. And I am guessing that it became like this because the +3M originally was +2 or +1 only. But change to +3 last minute. This is how bugs happen. Sometimes.

Yes Shadow seems pretty solid from a code perspective, I haven't seen any issues other than what you've mentioned and it's interesting to see how the cap became ineffective.

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